|
Blu on its own is a rather bad fit for miniatures, especially if you don't have a heater for your resin tank- it's relatively low-detail and is notoriously challenging wrt quality control. when I try to print it "like any other resin" i get a near-100% failure rate; I usually have to heat the resin, use a special super-gentle settings profile reserved just for Blu, and/or use a special extra-chunky support profile also reserved just for Blu. often a combination of the three. I don't use Blu unless it's gonna be a mechanical part, it's too big a pain in the rear end + has poor definition and low dimensional accuracy on certain areas of the print, such as the underside near the support roots. I wouldn't assume the resin's age is the culprit if you haven't ruled some of the Blu-specific issues out. Also fwiw a bit of Blu blended in a more typical resin can significantly improve print strength + toughness without being such a bear to print. SirayaTech still makes a good product imo, for miniatures I would go with Sculpt, it's got the best fine-detail definition and surface finish I've seen in a resin so far. ST Fast gets good reviews as an all-around modelling resin, and it's a fair bit cheaper than Sculpt.
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2021 21:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 12:43 |
|
|
Hm, that's actually fairly consistent with my experience. For a while Blu was my primary resin with an elegoo fallback, • My blu profile worked for the elegoo resin but not the other way around • My prints would suddenly fail when the weather got too cold (until I fixed the insulation, then it never got hot enough) • Anything "pre supported" would fail where the supports meet the model • The simple bases I made for wargames were never quite the perfect size until I added a bevel to lift them off the build plate I'm not going to toss the blu I have, mixing in a bit sounds like a good plan. How does something like Sculpt have higher surface detail?
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2021 21:48
|
|
|
The Eyes Have It posted:But when markets are stacked with people selling minis for $3 each, $3 becomes what people are willing to pay https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Race_to_the_bottom https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tragedy_of_the_commons
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2021 23:20
|
|
|
The Eyes Have It posted:But when markets are stacked with people selling minis for $3 each, $3 becomes what people are willing to pay I know you put a smiley there and all, but not necessarily. I bet you that most of those $3 minis are lovely prints with almost no care taken for cleaning and shipping. I make things that I would want to game with, so I make sure I am not shoveling garbage out to make a buck. I’ve got a good amount of repeat customers and consistently high feedback. There will always be a market for quality. Hell I ran across one seller that didn’t even cure the minis and remove supports! He made his customers do it! 
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2021 23:34
|
|
|
Delivering an uncured model sounds like more effort than just... curing it. And yeah, it's my understanding that when it comes to arts and stuff, people are willing to pay more for better quality. Especially if rapport is built up.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2021 23:55
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:
Holy moly I spotted this guy too Couldn't even imagine shipping a model with full supports. The amount of bullshit I'd get from people for their hosed up models would be bottomless
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 01:37
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Couldn't even imagine shipping a model with full supports. The amount of bullshit I'd get from people for their hosed up models would be bottomless How is a shop like that even in operation? I get a 1/5 rating because the miniature is done with blue resin and my render shows a grey model. I can't imagine sending out uncured stuff still on supports!
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 01:55
|
|
|
I put new filament (with a spool!) in my Ender and tried out Benchy. Not bad for a first time! I thought there would be a lot more tweaking to get something presentable.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 02:59
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:How is a shop like that even in operation? I get a 1/5 rating because the miniature is done with blue resin and my render shows a grey model. I can't imagine sending out uncured stuff still on supports! Absolutely no idea! When I pointed out to him (politely) that the models would still be toxic until cured, I was rebuked for telling people how to run their business. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 15:44
|
|
|
Is there a link to this shop? I have to see this.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 15:54
|
|
|
I'm looking into getting my 3rd 3D printer. Originally had a Solidoodle, now I've got a Monoprice Select Mini Pro. The Monoprice's build plate is too small for a lot of the stuff I mostly want to print now (Warhammer terrain), and I've just been having a hell of a time getting anything to print well on it that's not the default model that came on the SD card. I'm also not happy with the much slower print speeds I was able to get out of the Monoprice over the Solidoodle I used to have. I want to stick to FDM, the challenges of resin covered in the OP of this thread cover most of the reasons. Everything is pointing me at the Prusa i3 MK3S+. Just checking here first before I pull the trigger that there aren't other options I might want to explore. The print volume of the Prusa i3 MK3S+ is OK. My biggest concerns after that are: Ease of use, I don't want to get bogged down spending hours trying to get a good print fiddling with settings like I do with the Monoprice. Then print speed, I think printing something like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4939360 with my Monoprice would come out to over 20 total hours of printing at an OK resolution. I don't expect that to print in like 10 hours, but hopefully a noticeable speed boost over the current time. However, I would gladly take a slower print off an easier to use printer, than a lighting fast print on a printer that takes me a lot of time to dial in my print settings.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 18:31
|
|
|
I had a lot of good luck early-on with my Monoprice Mini Select a few years ago, but I was using a different slicer software than the one that came with it (Simplify3D, back when that software was good for something, as it came with the first printer I bought). Honestly, if you get either of the Original Prusa machines (Mini+ or MK3S+) you will have an amazing time. The printers you're used to are about six years out of date on design/firmware/etc. Also I've got to ask, did you read this post? It would tell you what you need to know about the pros/cons of the various machines that are semi-modern for the hobbyist. EDIT: As a point of reference, I have a Prusa Mini+ and it's just a beast for reliability and ease of use. I keep saying I'm going to get an MK3S+ but I haven't really had the need to yet. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Sep 1, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 18:42
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:I had a lot of good luck early-on with my Monoprice Mini Select a few years ago, but I was using a different slicer software than the one that came with it (Simplify3D, back when that software was good for something, as it came with the first printer I bought). Yeah, that post was one of the things pointing me toward the Prusa. Something I've been wondering is why did the fully enclosed printers fall out of favor? When I got my original Solidoodle it had a big metal frame to let you build your own enclosure, and that was one of the biggest points in shopping for a printer at the time, a fully enclosed printer to better manage temperature when printing. Temperature regulation definitely seems to be one of the problems I've been having with the Monoprice, but at $180 for the printer I didn't expect a lot from it. That's probably one of the reasons I haven't just pulled the trigger on the Prusa, it's $1,000 and doesn't have an enclosure for temperature regulation.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 18:50
|
|
|
Chainclaw posted:Yeah, that post was one of the things pointing me toward the Prusa. It's really not needed for most of the stuff people are printing. I mean, it's taking me over a year to finish my enclosure project (still ongoing), as while it's handy when printing ABS/ASA, etc you can get around it with draft shields.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 19:08
|
|
|
It adds cost and doesn't do much for pla. For the prusa in particular it's a direct descendant of other open printers, so there'd be a fair bit of reengineering work to add the superstructure for an enclosure. Most other popular printers are basically as cheap as possible, so they don't want to add cost there either.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 19:11
|
|
|
Chainclaw posted:Temperature regulation definitely seems to be one of the problems I've been having with the Monoprice, but at $180 for the printer I didn't expect a lot from it. That's probably one of the reasons I haven't just pulled the trigger on the Prusa, it's $1,000 and doesn't have an enclosure for temperature regulation. Unless you're printing ABS or a fancy engineering plastic, you don't need an enclosure. PLA, PET and friends are all happy at room temperature. Even ABS can be done in the open if the part's geometry isn't too demanding. What sort of temperature regulation problems are you having with your Monoprice? Every printer should be able to hold consistent, even nozzle and bed temperatures these days. If that isn't working, something is wrong with the machine. Chainclaw posted:Originally had a Solidoodle https://i.imgur.com/QUoP6yj.mp4 Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Sep 1, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 19:14
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:What sort of temperature regulation problems are you having with your Monoprice? Every printer should be able to hold consistent, even nozzle and bed temperatures these days. If that isn't working, something is wrong with the machine. The electronics on those old Monoprice designs were only good for about 2,000 hours of use before they started to die (if everything was perfect, if it wasn't perfect they died a lot sooner). It's the old hardware supplier quality problem. The saving grace on those machines back when they were popular with hobbyists was that Monoprice's Warranty meant you could exchange the machine as often as that happened until one year from the purchase date. (I went through four Monoprice Make Select V2s that way with no extra out of pocket on my end because shipping and return shipping were free under the warranty) Some folks modded those machines, but I left them stock because gently caress it, why not get a new, free printer every few months for the same $250 original price with free shipping (when they were on sale)? I'm sure there are more hoops to jump through now on the warranty, but for a brief time it was a gravy train with biscuit wheels for folks in the hobby that didn't live far from a Monoprice warehouse.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 19:24
|
|
|
A few more Ender 3 newbie questions: - anyone have a printable tool holder they like (for the Pro, specifically)? There's too many on thingiverse to sort through - what's the consensus on bed type - stock, glass, stock on top of glass? Hairspray, glue stick? I'm just printing PLA for now, will probably try out PETG in the future.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 20:31
|
|
|
Toebone posted:A few more Ender 3 newbie questions: I printed a catch tray for between the Y rail and the control box. and infrequently used tools go in a otterbox like thing that I have behind the printer. If you're reaching for "real tools" often... something else ain't right. Magnetic steel sheet with PEI coating. But the stock magnetic sheet (I think it's polycarbonate topped) lasted me a year. I keep glue stick around, and alcohol for keeping the bed in shape. Get yellow springs, and a metal extruder.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 20:43
|
|
|
Built my Prusa Mini this weekend and I'm having a blast! A question for those in the know: My apartment is very humid in the summer - tends to be at or near the outdoor ambient humidity even with A/C running. I'm aware that humidity is the filament-killer. What is the best way to mitigate that problem? Just get a big old bin and throw a bunch of silica packs in it? I'd rather not run a dehumidifier if possible, my office is more or less at electrical capacity and the lights already flicker while I'm printing.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 21:00
|
|
|
Unless we're talking 70%+ ambient humidity the filament will be just fine as long as you keep it printing until the opened spool runs out. It should take several days before the humidity becomes a problem after opening the spool if it was packaged properly.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 21:02
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Unless you're printing ABS or a fancy engineering plastic, you don't need an enclosure. PLA, PET and friends are all happy at room temperature. Even ABS can be done in the open if the part's geometry isn't too demanding. Ah, that makes sense if most people have moved away from ABS to PLA. With the Solidoodle, I printed most things with ABS, but nowadays PLA seems to be the most popular. I guess the health hazards of ABS must outweigh the downsides of PLA nowadays if everyone's moved to it or something. Temperature issues: If I don't print with a pretty hefty raft, I run into problems with corners peeling up. I've tried multiple build plate temperatures, because I'd like to avoid the raft if possible (extends print time and in some cases it's by a large amount), but nothing's worked out. In some cases, I can't even get the raft to work well. If I don't put a big fan next to my print as it's running, I run into layer adhesion problems. Visually the layers have some separation, and it's easy to pull apart the prints. With the old Solidoodle and ABS, I had this problem and it was mostly solved via the enclosure and the temperature regulation. It takes a long time for the build plate to hit higher temperatures if I don't have an enclosure. I'm still trying to figure out what temperature I should set the plate to, but based on the test gcode that came with the printer, I might actually not need to use the heated plate with PLA, it doesn't turn it on at all or it's set to roughly room temp at 20 C, the UI doesn't make it clear. Not temperature, just an annoyance: The auto-leveling of the build plate definitely isn't working, so I'm going to need to spend some time with manual leveling if I want to print bigger parts. I avoided this in the past because I was mostly printing small parts so it didn't come up. I figure this won't be an issue if I upgrade printers, I'm hoping this is something the Prusa handles better or makes easier. At the very least I won't feel like I'm wasting my time spending a lot of time on leveling.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 21:05
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Unless we're talking 70%+ ambient humidity the filament will be just fine as long as you keep it printing until the opened spool runs out. It should take several days before the humidity becomes a problem after opening the spool if it was packaged properly. Pretty much exactly my problem. I'm in a poorly insulated top-floor apartment with undersized A/C in an east-coast city. I'm keeping my spools in freezer bags with whatever silica packs they come with when not in use (that is, when I've swapped colors) but I don't yet have a feel for whether they'll degrade within days or weeks or months.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 21:11
|
|
|
Toebone posted:A few more Ender 3 newbie questions: I like the drawers that go in the empty space under the bed in front. Don't have a link, but search for ender 3 drawers. The stock magnetic bed was fine for a while. I upgraded to a Creality glass bed for extra flatness and still use it to this day. I alcohol clean between prints until I start having adhesion issues, then I clean the glass in the sink with dish soap and water. Never touched glue stick or hairspray. I bought a powder coated spring steel bed for PETG, but haven't used it yet.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 21:17
|
|
|
Chainclaw posted:Everything is pointing me at the Prusa i3 MK3S+. Just checking here first before I pull the trigger that there aren't other options I might want to explore. The print volume of the Prusa i3 MK3S+ is OK. My biggest concerns after that are: Ease of use, I don't want to get bogged down spending hours trying to get a good print fiddling with settings like I do with the Monoprice. Then print speed, I think printing something like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4939360 with my Monoprice would come out to over 20 total hours of printing at an OK resolution. I don't expect that to print in like 10 hours, but hopefully a noticeable speed boost over the current time. However, I would gladly take a slower print off an easier to use printer, than a lighting fast print on a printer that takes me a lot of time to dial in my print settings. The Prusa is pretty drat easy to use. I bought one and it's been my no-drama workhorse; I actually felt like I wanted a bit more drama and picked up a cheap Creality Ender 3 v2 so that I'd have something upon which to tinker and wrench, because the Prusa just works. I don't have a bad thing to say about my Prusa; the closest I can come is "I've learned more about 3D printing with the Ender because I lost the Creality QC lotto and have had all sorts of little issues which I've needed to troubleshoot." If you're not looking for a Project Car and instead you just want a late-model Honda or Toyota, get a Prusa. I think I've said it in this thread, but I got the kit version because it wound up being about $410 cheaper than the pre-built, which includes the $250 price difference, an extra ~$100 in shipping, and import duties since it's over the $800 limit here in the United States. In retrospect, I am really glad I got the kit, because building it was straight-up fun. It took me about 10-12 hours spread out over two days. My tips for this are "have a dedicated workspace that you can leave everything out on overnight" (no cats carrying off parts baggies) and "use the online build manual instead of the paper one that's included, as it's updated more frequently and the user comments are often very helpful". You can download Prusa Slicer yourself, add the presets for an i3 MK3S+, import your models, and slice them. I went ahead and downloaded that bundle you linked and at 0.2mm with the "quality" preset, I see a print time of about 12 hours. If I bump to 0.15mm layer height, stick with "quality", I see about 15.5 hours. It all fits easily on the build plate with room to spare. It frankly looks like stuff that would look fine at 0.2mm layer height but I don't play Warhammer and you should not trust my opinion on this! Download the slicer and check it out though, I have found its time estimates to be pretty much spot-on. I'm not an expert in this hobby by any means, but I do own and awesome Prusa i3 MK3S+ "2016 Honda Odyssey" and a sonofabitch Creality Ender 3 v2 "1988 VW Jetta" and am more than happy to expand upon why each one has a place in my workshop. But really, go ahead and get a Prusa if you can swing it, because it's great. Ask any questions you might have, we're all here because we love to talk about 3D printing. Chainclaw posted:Not temperature, just an annoyance: Both Prusa FDM printers have their in-house bed sensor and do mesh level calibration before every print. The default is a 3x3 grid and takes about ten seconds, but you can also set it to 7x7. The bed is supported by metal spacers. There is no messing around with leveling once you get your Z-offset dialed in, but thats something you'll do once, and then very infrequently afterward. becoming fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Sep 1, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 21:23
|
|
|
I know nothing about auto bed leveling. A friend has a BLTouch clone that he's offered to give me because of the trouble I've been having getting my new spring steel surface leveled across the whole bed, I keep getting half of it tuned in right and then the other half won't print right. What fittings do I need to install a BLTouch clone on an Ender 3 Pro?
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 22:59
|
|
|
becoming posted:The Prusa is pretty drat easy to use. I bought one and it's been my no-drama workhorse; I actually felt like I wanted a bit more drama and picked up a cheap Creality Ender 3 v2 so that I'd have something upon which to tinker and wrench, because the Prusa just works. I don't have a bad thing to say about my Prusa; the closest I can come is "I've learned more about 3D printing with the Ender because I lost the Creality QC lotto and have had all sorts of little issues which I've needed to troubleshoot." If you're not looking for a Project Car and instead you just want a late-model Honda or Toyota, get a Prusa. That price difference is more than I thought it would be. I thought $250 for it assembled would be fine, but you're right the $800 limit + extra shipping cost is making me read through the assembly instructions. I also read through the assembly instructions, it looks like a hassle but not a big deal, and I wouldn't be in a rush so I think you're right, that's the call to make get it unassembled. While I think on this I'm back to trying to get better prints out of the Monoprice. This time I'm testing again without the external fan, using the sample cat that came with it. One of the reasons I was using the fan before was to try and deal with the banding you see in these two cats. One of them came out worse when the fan wasn't setup correctly.  It's put the raft down no problem and I have no idea why I can't get that out of my own prints. I'm going to have to experiment more with Cura, I was still using Slic3r or Octoprint before, and Cura is a recent (as of a few days ago) switch for me. I think this cat was sliced via Cura. I guess part of why I'm testing this old printer again is to see if I want to drop the money for the Prusa or not, do I have enough I want to print now to be worth that cost. I've moved a lot of my projects over to the laser cutter, which I prefer in most cases, but there's still stuff I need a 3D printer for. I just don't know if it's stuff I need a ~$800 shipped Prusa kit for, so doing some printing on the old printer will help me decide. edit: I pulled the trigger and ordered the kit. Chainclaw fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Sep 1, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2021 23:38
|
|
|
Chainclaw posted:edit: I pulled the trigger and ordered the kit. One of us! One of us! (In however many weeks  )
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2021 00:44
|
|
|
is it ok to post a forsale once here for my CR10/10S4's? really want them gone 
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2021 01:37
|
|
|
insta posted:is it ok to post a forsale once here for my CR10/10S4's? really want them gone I have sent you a Private Message. Chainclaw posted:edit: I pulled the trigger and ordered the kit. Awesome. I think you'll love it. There are a few bits of the build that are a bit fiddly, but overall it's sort of like an adult LEGO kit. Ask here if you hit any snags, read the directions for each step carefully before you start putting the pieces together, check out the comments on areas where you feel like you're having difficulty. I grew up a tinkerer and that informed my experience, but I absolutely loved putting it together. So glad that I wound up with the kit, and the printer has been perfect since I built it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2021 02:32
|
|
|
And don’t bother with the instruction booklet in the box - use the online copy. Same content but with a lot of people contributing what worked for them. I had a bitch of a time getting my Prusa’s X axis rods seated in their end brackets until I read that someone used rubberized gloves to get a good grip on the assembly. I did the same thing and it went right together.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2021 03:00
|
|
|
I put a Prusa Mini Kit together this weekend in about 8 hours, working slowly, and I have zero experience with printers. With the online instructions and accompanying pictures it should be pretty breezy. They tell you exactly, and I do mean exactly what to do, but if you start skimming you're liable to miss something that'll make you backtrack a bit The nice thing is that there's not really anything that can't be easily backtracked. Once it's together, the Z calibration is the only real prep step. Once I got that sorted I printed a very nice looking benchy on the first try and have been pumping out parts nonstop since - it really is easy mode, esp with the prusa-made filament.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2021 03:01
|
|
|
csammis posted:And don’t bother with the instruction booklet in the box - use the online copy. Same content but with a lot of people contributing what worked for them. I had a bitch of a time getting my Prusa’s X axis rods seated in their end brackets until I read that someone used rubberized gloves to get a good grip on the assembly. I did the same thing and it went right together. After someone suggested using the online version, I read through it and it seemed pretty well written and easy to follow, so I'm not too worried. edit: This is a great example of why I'm looking forward to the new printer. I'm sick of trying to debug problems like this.  
Chainclaw fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Sep 2, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2021 03:57
|
|
|
What's the thread consensus on screen protectors? How many people actually use em? I never have, partially from laziness but also partially b/c they increase bleed by a non-negligible amount (or so i've heard), but then again i've also never torn a FEP sheet or even had to replace a sheet yet; according to my .ctb working file archive, this ingot mold i'm running now will be my 107th print without issue, which does not seem typical
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2021 04:44
|
|
|
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it" probably applies there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2021 10:36
|
|
|
A spare FEP sheet and some kapton tape makes an excellent cheap screen protector that's guaranteed to not filter any UV light. Barring that, even just some kapton tape around the border of the screen to seal the gap (if your printer didn't already come with tape or a vinyl gasket) goes a long way toward keeping resin from oozing inside the machine in the event of catastrophe. I also have never broken a FEP sheet, nor have I had to change one in any of my printers yet after quite a lot of use. A little bit of care and attention goes a long way. Accidents can obviously happen though, and I'm no more immune from that than anyone else, so my screens are still taped/gasketed just in case.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2021 11:20
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:What's the thread consensus on screen protectors? How many people actually use em? I never have, partially from laziness but also partially b/c they increase bleed by a non-negligible amount (or so i've heard), but then again i've also never torn a FEP sheet or even had to replace a sheet yet; according to my .ctb working file archive, this ingot mold i'm running now will be my 107th print without issue, which does not seem typical I use 'em, I figure it's worth the few extra bucks for peace of mind. It's easier to replace a screen protector and some kapton tape than it is to replace a screen or have to try and get cured resin off one or whatever.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2021 12:46
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:What's the thread consensus on screen protectors? How many people actually use em? I never have, partially from laziness but also partially b/c they increase bleed by a non-negligible amount (or so i've heard), but then again i've also never torn a FEP sheet or even had to replace a sheet yet; according to my .ctb working file archive, this ingot mold i'm running now will be my 107th print without issue, which does not seem typical There is none. I have taken a run at them 3 times and had to rip them off every time because I can never get anything to print correctly afterward. Other people have had no issues at all. If you are careful, leaks aren't all that common. Moreso when you are learning, but after a while you shouldn't have many, if any. They are almost always because you ignored the warning signs, pushed it a bit and are paying for it, IMO. If it ever does happen to me now (and it's been like 6 months) I just use plastic razor blades to scrape the cured resin off, wipe it with IPA, change the FEP and start again, no problem.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2021 14:00
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:What's the thread consensus on screen protectors? How many people actually use em? I never have, partially from laziness but also partially b/c they increase bleed by a non-negligible amount (or so i've heard), but then again i've also never torn a FEP sheet or even had to replace a sheet yet; according to my .ctb working file archive, this ingot mold i'm running now will be my 107th print without issue, which does not seem typical After losing my mono X screen to a FEP tear I use a protector on that machine, but I don't bother on any of my smaller machines. I have two machines down right now waiting replacement screens because of this, so maybe I need to rethink this approach. That protector on my mono X has saved me once already fyi.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2021 14:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 12:43 |
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Is there a link to this shop? I have to see this. I ran across him on Facebook, so I never saw his store. Although now you got me curious and I may have to looking for it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2021 14:14
|
|