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Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

CommonShore posted:

While we're talking bandsaws, what bandsaw would you recommend for a weekend warrior who is looking to hit the price/value point

E. Specifically for replacing the table saw

14" Delta clone. Grizzly makes a good one, and there are often old Delta 14" saws available used for ~$400 =/- $300
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-the-classic-14-bandsaw/g0555

Also various others, but in general a 14" Delta is the sweet spot as it's by far the most common design. Parts are easy to get and you can even find blades at big box stores most of the time.

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Enderzero
Jun 19, 2001

The snowflake button makes it
cold cold cold
Set temperature makes it
hold hold hold
I’d like to camber my Jack blade and Chris Schwarz’ article on it recommends a bench grinder, but I’m not sure what to look for in good enough. It wouldn’t be a frequently used tool so I’d prefer cheap; would the Ryobi 6 in be a sufficient option? Seems like maybe not as tool rest control seems important especially for grinding a primary bevel. Or I’m sure with enough effort I could do it by hand on my extra coarse DMT plate or glued down sandpaper. But last time I squared a blade, the amount of bevel grinding it took to get rid of the flat took forever before I got a burr everywhere. Any good options out there?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Enderzero posted:

I’d like to camber my Jack blade and Chris Schwarz’ article on it recommends a bench grinder, but I’m not sure what to look for in good enough. It wouldn’t be a frequently used tool so I’d prefer cheap; would the Ryobi 6 in be a sufficient option? Seems like maybe not as tool rest control seems important especially for grinding a primary bevel. Or I’m sure with enough effort I could do it by hand on my extra coarse DMT plate or glued down sandpaper. But last time I squared a blade, the amount of bevel grinding it took to get rid of the flat took forever before I got a burr everywhere. Any good options out there?

The Porter Cable at Lowes gets better reviews than the Ryobi at HD for what that's worth. Mine is a 30-40 year old garage sale special.

All factory tool rests are dogshit. I got the Veritas one. It works well.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Cheap and decent is all you're really after. The wheel you put on the grinder makes a bigger difference than the grinder itself. If you can, spending extra money on a slow speed or variable speed bench grinder is worth it, but not a requirement. Shopfox makes a slow speed, as well as Rikon and Delta. They're all totally fine, just pick your favorite color/ease of ordering/price/etc.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/sharpening/wheels-and-wheel-dressers/62012-norton-3x-grinding-wheels
https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/t/97/Grinding-Wheels

Soft Norton wheels also have a runout problem that isn't a massive issue, but is definitely annoying. The fix is a machined bushing.
https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/97/6196/raptor-R3X-Grinding-Wheel-Bushing-2-Piece-Set

e: also yes, factory rests are garbage. You can mount the grinder to a piece of plywood and build a rest yourself or dig into one of the various aftermarket rests. It's arguably not worth spending money on chisel holders/guides/etc, though they can help. Lee Valley has one, among others.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

CommonShore posted:

While we're talking bandsaws, what bandsaw would you recommend for a weekend warrior who is looking to hit the price/value point

E. Specifically for replacing the table saw

I'd actually break with Schwarz's recommendation here and go with a 14-18" steel frame saw. Harvey Tools, Laguna (the cheaper options), Jet, Rikon all being legit budget friendly but not junk options.

Enderzero posted:

would the Ryobi 6 in be a sufficient option? Seems like maybe not as tool rest control seems important especially for grinding a primary bevel. Or I’m sure with enough effort I could do it by hand on my extra coarse DMT plate or glued down sandpaper. But last time I squared a blade, the amount of bevel grinding it took to get rid of the flat took forever before I got a burr everywhere. Any good options out there?

At that $60 price point you've got the ryobi and the porter cable, another goon suggested the PC was better at $100 you have the delta which *might* be better, and at $200 you have the Rikon 8" which would be sufficient to be the last grinder you'd likely ever feel the need to buy. All of them will do what you are currently looking to do. Fwiw my bench grinder is an old makita that only accepts 1/2" thick and 5" diameter wheels, max, and I get by well enough that I've always found something else to spend my money on.

I also own and recommend the LV grinder tool rest.

Also fwiw Schwarz recommends against low speed grinders.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
If I'm thinking of picking up a used drill press (probably bench top for the time being) what should I look at on the press itself to figure out if it's on ok shape? I know I should extend the quill to full depth and see if it's loose. What am I looking at on the belt etc?

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
The rikon 8" slow grinder routinely goes on sale at Woodcraft for ~$120. Combine that with a CBN wheel and you're set for a long time.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Got a recruiting bonus from work, went with the Rikon 8" jointer (slightly more than the Wahuda, but a helical carbide head instead of a spiral, and also Rikon's headquarters is up in Billerica so maybe I'd actually be able to get ahold of somebody if something goes sideways) and the DW735. Waiting is the hardest part. Also lifting. Those things gonna be heavy. I have no idea how the inevitable 14" bandsaw (which I am looking at with the rest of my play money) gets into the shop. Telekinesis, maybe.

tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Sep 12, 2021

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?

tracecomplete posted:

Got a recruiting bonus from work, went with the Rikon 8" jointer (slightly more than the Wahuda, but a helical carbide head instead of a spiral, and also Rikon's headquarters is up in Billerica so maybe I'd actually be able to get ahold of somebody if something goes sideways) and the DW735. Waiting is the hardest part. Also lifting. Those things gonna be heavy. I have no idea how the inevitable 14" bandsaw (which I am looking at with the rest of my play money) gets into the shop. Telekinesis, maybe.

I have a harbor freight foldable shop crane I use for moving and setting up certain tools in my shop. When my shop was in a basement in my last place I built a sled on the stairs and used a come-along.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

yeah bandsaw injuries are way way lower; I'd presume because most that do happen are basically a nasty scratch and go unreported. I know I've walked off a few, as have most I've worked with

imo you're way less likely to come in contact with the blade on a table saw if you apply minimal common sense, but if you do cut yourself it's gonna be bad

seems like everyone thinks they can nudge that last little piece through without a push stick

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

The junk collector posted:

I have a harbor freight foldable shop crane I use for moving and setting up certain tools in my shop. When my shop was in a basement in my last place I built a sled on the stairs and used a come-along.

That's a good call; I was thinking about getting one of their jacks but the shop crane's probably more generally useful. My shop is in a garage, albeit one with a lip (artifact of the new floor pour; no car's ever going in there again) that makes rolling stuff a little tricky till I can pour a ramp next summer.

tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Sep 12, 2021

Discernibly Turgid
Mar 30, 2010

This was not the improvement I was asking for!

CommonShore posted:

While we're talking bandsaws, what bandsaw would you recommend for a weekend warrior who is looking to hit the price/value point

E. Specifically for replacing the table saw

Grizzly 16” are beefy as hell and a real step up from the Delta clones (I have a 14” Grizzly (Delta clone.) G1073 and the like can be had at reasonable (read: mildly pandemic-adjusted) prices, parts are no problem, and their service is pretty damned good.

The 16” saws in general seem to be the sweet spot when it comes to something bigger/more serious than casual hobbyist use that can also manage some heavy duty stuff.

Good luck and happy hunting

Thread note: BARELY managed to get the Unisaw into the new place without removing doors. My movers (from the company I used to help run, and they’re awesome) will forever curse the name, “Delta,” after manhandling that thing around and I to the back of the house.) Will see how things shake out, but I may end up selling it (and the Grizzly 14”) and graduate to a 16” or 18” myself for space reasons. Won’t get to try setting things up for a few months anyhow.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


The junk collector posted:

I have a harbor freight foldable shop crane I use for moving and setting up certain tools in my shop. When my shop was in a basement in my last place I built a sled on the stairs and used a come-along.

Harbor Freight pallet jack is the best $200 I ever spent for real. I can rearrange my entire shop at will. There was already a crane thing there, and it's been extremely useful for those last 3" between the top of the pallet and the floor. I imagine one of those little shop cranes would probably kill both birds with 1 stone.


tracecomplete posted:

That's a good call; I was thinking about getting one of their jacks but the shop crane's probably more generally useful. My shop is in a garage, albeit one with a lip (artifact of the new floor pour; no car's ever going in there again) that makes rolling stuff a little tricky till I can pour a ramp next summer.
IDK how big the lip is, but half a sheet of 3/4" ply with a boards stacked under the high end will make a fine ramp for the kind of weight you're talking about. It's worked for stuff that weighs almost a ton for me.


GEMorris posted:

Also fwiw Schwarz recommends against low speed grinders.
What does he not like about them? I love my 8" Rikon with the cool cutting Norton wheels.

Definitely agree on getting the biggest bandsaw you can (18" is when they really get great)

E:

Danhenge posted:

If I'm thinking of picking up a used drill press (probably bench top for the time being) what should I look at on the press itself to figure out if it's on ok shape? I know I should extend the quill to full depth and see if it's loose. What am I looking at on the belt etc?
Belts are a wear item and should be easy to replace. Benchtop drill presses are mostly not really built all that well or heavy, but there's also not too much that can go wrong with them. If something does go wrong it's probably a capacitor and they are fairly easy/cheap to replace. Older is probably better and will have more steel/cast iron and less plastic. I personally would want 1/2" chuck capacity-some smaller ones may only be 3/8".

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Sep 12, 2021

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


How about things like horsepower? It looks to me that the big jump in price happens going from 1hp to 1.5 or 1.75 hp along with going from the 10 inch saws to the 14 inch saws.

The used market for bandsaws here is pretty poor - I've been watching it for over a year now, so I'm probably going to have to buy new if I want a decent one. I'm in Canada so Grizzly is a bit complicated. Within a few hours' drive I've identified suppliers for Rikon, Laguna, and Stallion saws, all of which are about $1800 Canadian for a 14" 1.75 HP saw. Below that Stallion has 1hp 14"/6" for $1000; Lee Valley sells a 1hp 10"/5" Rikon for $700. Laguna starts at that price range. Nobody in the thread has mentioned Stallion - is that a decent make? The store that sells it is the type of store that sells other good brands like SawStop.

If I work in hard woods and do occasional (re)sawing am I going to regret getting a 1hp bandsaw? Or is a 1hp bandsaw the equivalent of those 8.5" contractor saws? I mostly want a machine that will do nice rips so that I can put aside the janky table saw I've been using. Getting into the $1500+ range is what sends me into "serious purchase" mode where I hem and haw for a year.

who am I kidding I hemmed and hawed for 6 months on a $200 3d printer

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

What does he not like about them? I love my 8" Rikon with the cool cutting Norton wheels.


He doesn't necessarily dislike them, just thinks it doesn't matter. I do definitely agree there, it's more important to have a grinder than to have the perfect grinder. The soft wheels are what make the big difference. Slow speed is still easier for people learning to grind and more forgiving all around, but it's just the difference between grinding for ~4 seconds vs ~8 seconds.

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



Is this a good deal? It seems like it but before I pull the pin I wanted to see what you all thought.

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/tls/d/lafayette-hill-delta-milwaukee-14-band/7364639343.html

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Personally I'd hold out for one with the riser block kit, none of those other upgrades matter all that much in comparison, but yeah it's an OK price for one that's clearly been well cared for

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



AFewBricksShy posted:

Is this a good deal? It seems like it but before I pull the pin I wanted to see what you all thought.

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/tls/d/lafayette-hill-delta-milwaukee-14-band/7364639343.html

I had that same model for 20 years. It's probably older than you, but credit to the seller, he really refurbed it nicely. 6"resaw is a bit not so much compared to the new ones. But also depending on if you'll ever need more than that.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

Hypnolobster posted:

He doesn't necessarily dislike them, just thinks it doesn't matter. I do definitely agree there, it's more important to have a grinder than to have the perfect grinder. The soft wheels are what make the big difference. Slow speed is still easier for people learning to grind and more forgiving all around, but it's just the difference between grinding for ~4 seconds vs ~8 seconds.

This, but also he just dislikes how long it takes to grind with them. His position is that with some basic best practice and technique the main thing a low speed grinder is meant to solve, not burning your edge, is solved.

Personally I've only ever used high speed, so I don't have a dog in the fight other than to say "its worked for me and I've never felt the grinder is a source of my sharpening challenges."

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



A Wizard of Goatse posted:

Personally I'd hold out for one with the riser block kit, none of those other upgrades matter all that much in comparison, but yeah it's an OK price for one that's clearly been well cared for

I just talked to him, getting it for $400 (knocked 50 off) Thanks for your help.

AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Sep 12, 2021

Granite Octopus
Jun 24, 2008

Made a pencil marking gauge on the weekend because I need to do a whole bunch of layout for shaping another project, and this seemed like the easiest way to go. Pity it took all day.




Queensland walnut for the body and some macadamia for the wedge/pin

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

CommonShore posted:

How about things like horsepower? It looks to me that the big jump in price happens going from 1hp to 1.5 or 1.75 hp along with going from the 10 inch saws to the 14 inch saws.

The used market for bandsaws here is pretty poor - I've been watching it for over a year now, so I'm probably going to have to buy new if I want a decent one. I'm in Canada so Grizzly is a bit complicated. Within a few hours' drive I've identified suppliers for Rikon, Laguna, and Stallion saws, all of which are about $1800 Canadian for a 14" 1.75 HP saw. Below that Stallion has 1hp 14"/6" for $1000; Lee Valley sells a 1hp 10"/5" Rikon for $700. Laguna starts at that price range. Nobody in the thread has mentioned Stallion - is that a decent make? The store that sells it is the type of store that sells other good brands like SawStop.

If I work in hard woods and do occasional (re)sawing am I going to regret getting a 1hp bandsaw? Or is a 1hp bandsaw the equivalent of those 8.5" contractor saws? I mostly want a machine that will do nice rips so that I can put aside the janky table saw I've been using. Getting into the $1500+ range is what sends me into "serious purchase" mode where I hem and haw for a year.

who am I kidding I hemmed and hawed for 6 months on a $200 3d printer

I like my CWI combo jointer/planer so I pulled the trigger on a 16" Stallion, it has not arrived yet, so can't comment on the quality, but if it's like the combo machine then I will be happy.

That being said, my friend has the 14" Rikon from Lee Valley and really likes it. I also used to have a 16" Laguna and loved it. So you can't go wrong with any of those brands. To answer your actual question though, 1hp should be fine for a bandsaw if it's the right size (14") you'll just have to slow down on your feedrate depending what you're cutting. I would stay away from anything smaller than 14" as those are equivalent to the 8.5" contractor saws.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Meow Meow Meow posted:

I like my CWI combo jointer/planer so I pulled the trigger on a 16" Stallion, it has not arrived yet, so can't comment on the quality, but if it's like the combo machine then I will be happy.

That being said, my friend has the 14" Rikon from Lee Valley and really likes it. I also used to have a 16" Laguna and loved it. So you can't go wrong with any of those brands. To answer your actual question though, 1hp should be fine for a bandsaw if it's the right size (14") you'll just have to slow down on your feedrate depending what you're cutting. I would stay away from anything smaller than 14" as those are equivalent to the 8.5" contractor saws.

Post when it arrives! Let the thread know what you think of it!

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Granite Octopus posted:

Made a pencil marking gauge on the weekend because I need to do a whole bunch of layout for shaping another project, and this seemed like the easiest way to go. Pity it took all day.




Queensland walnut for the body and some macadamia for the wedge/pin

Nicely done. I love shop made tools.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Anyone recognize the brand on this workbench? It seems like a screaming deal almost any way you slice it?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/395821848729897/?ref=product_details&referral_code=undefined



Edit: Looks like a White Gate. I guess it's not the most primo brand but a reasonable quality bench with two vices at $20 is a good deal I bet.

Danhenge fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Sep 13, 2021

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
Yeah theres like 19 things I'd want to change about that bench and even to me thats a screaming deal. If you don't already own a bench then doubly so.

Fortaleza
Feb 21, 2008

The vices alone are probably worth $20. That’s a “I don’t care, just get it out of my house” deal right there

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

So F360 doesn't have a real hobbyist plan, Solidworks is scary as heck, and FreeCAD apparently can't do parametric modeling in inches. It decides that ceil(28.75in + 1in) is "28.78 in", because their modeling engine is silly.

Any other options worth looking at? (Sketchup isn't on the table, my brain loves parametric modeling now, I'm stuck.)

Enderzero
Jun 19, 2001

The snowflake button makes it
cold cold cold
Set temperature makes it
hold hold hold
Thanks for the bench grinder info everyone. Grabbed the Porter Cable one, and have a Norton 3x wheel on the way along with the Raptor R3x bearings. Gonna make a tool rest too, seems like a fun little project.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

tracecomplete posted:

So F360 doesn't have a real hobbyist plan

Are you looking for something beyond the free personal plan? I use it for all my woodworking mockups and 3d printing modelling.

https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal

mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255

Sockser posted:

Statistically I believe band saws are more dangerous

But only in number of incidents and not in severity of injuries

Digital amputation via circular saw is the #1 emergency room visit every year.


Bands saws are so drat safe.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


mds2 posted:

Digital amputation via circular saw is the #1 emergency room visit every year.


.

What? No it isn't.

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!

CommonShore posted:

What? No it isn't.

You don't know, maybe mds2 cuts of their finger 2 or 3 times a year so it's their number 1 reason for visiting emerg.

Olothreutes
Mar 31, 2007

Falls are far and away the biggest reason for ER visits that involve injuries.

mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255

CommonShore posted:

What? No it isn't.

Well, thats what my nurse friend told me. Oh well.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

GEMorris posted:

Yeah theres like 19 things I'd want to change about that bench and even to me thats a screaming deal. If you don't already own a bench then doubly so.

My current small bench has some real issues with delaminating plywood where i tried to laminate two pieces together so it isn't flat. I also think the legs aren't the same height so I might retire and retool it eventually.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


mds2 posted:

Well, thats what my nurse friend told me. Oh well.

Like it's plausible to me that it could be common among power tool injuries but like, back pain is a much more frequent ER visit.

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer
I would have guessed chest pain.

Though as a nurse, I could absolutely see telling any good friend that "X is the most common reason for ER visits" and just make X whatever the most dangerous aspect of their hobby is. No helmets for motorcycles, cut fingers for woodworkers, falling off stages drunk for musicians.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

tracecomplete posted:

So F360 doesn't have a real hobbyist plan, Solidworks is scary as heck, and FreeCAD apparently can't do parametric modeling in inches. It decides that ceil(28.75in + 1in) is "28.78 in", because their modeling engine is silly.

Any other options worth looking at? (Sketchup isn't on the table, my brain loves parametric modeling now, I'm stuck.)

if you can't get used to Solidworks then I'm p sure Rhino/Grasshopper is your other good option right now, but I'd recommend you just get used to SW. F360 is a disaster to actually get anything useful out of and I wouldn't use it if someone paid me to; which, incidentally, they aren't. I end up just using qCAD nearly every time I don't need gcode because it's so much simpler to just throw together a sketch, get some dimensions, and get on with my day but that's not really an option for parametric modeling

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Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


tracecomplete posted:

So F360 doesn't have a real hobbyist plan, Solidworks is scary as heck, and FreeCAD apparently can't do parametric modeling in inches. It decides that ceil(28.75in + 1in) is "28.78 in", because their modeling engine is silly.

Any other options worth looking at? (Sketchup isn't on the table, my brain loves parametric modeling now, I'm stuck.)
I’ve gotten more or less used to F360, but I don’t have much experience with anything else. The way it does drawings is a bit frustrating and usually it’s easier to just screenshot a dimensioned sketch, but it has mostly done what I want it to do. I’ve not tried using it for any kind of CAM/3D printing.

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