|
Thanks for all of your help with the bath fan dudes. I'm just going to try out the existing config (one switch for one, one for vent) and see how it goes. Because I just discovered squirrels in the attic so now that poo poo has my attention.
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 19:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 20:00 |
|
|
korora posted:Did you take the aerator off your faucet and check if any of the crud is trapped there? I have some weird faux-antiqued faucet whose aerator isn't obviously removable...but in any case, this morning my kitchen sink's water also was nasty  Fortunately, they both cleared up after running the water for awhile, but I'm guessing I'll have to do that every day for awhile before the crud clears out of the pipes for good.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 21:10
|
|
|
Could you disconnect the hose/line to the sink and flush that? And maybe push water backwards through the sink?
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 21:16
|
|
|
Gang, it's time to own up. I ran over one of those boot scraper things with my self-propelled lawnmower (Craftsman M250). It immediately stopped. Given that the problem is almost certainly 'something is still inside the lawnmower stopping it from working,' how likely am I to be able to fix this without losing one or both of my hands?
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 21:28
|
|
|
Bogart posted:Gang, it's time to own up. I ran over one of those boot scraper things with my self-propelled lawnmower (Craftsman M250). It immediately stopped. Given that the problem is almost certainly 'something is still inside the lawnmower stopping it from working,' how likely am I to be able to fix this without losing one or both of my hands? If you disconnect the wire from the spark plug before digging around near the blade your chances of being injured are very low. If you unscrew the spark plug first so there's no way to get significant compression in the cylinder, your chances of being injured are virtually zero.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 21:36
|
|
|
Also very likely a sheered flywheel key.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 22:02
|
|
|
Stack Machine posted:If you disconnect the wire from the spark plug before digging around near the blade your chances of being injured are very low. If you unscrew the spark plug first so there's no way to get significant compression in the cylinder, your chances of being injured are virtually zero. This. Remove the spark plug and there is no chance of the engine starting unexpectedly while your body parts are within the blade's destruction zone.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 22:02
|
|
|
Alarbus posted:Could you disconnect the hose/line to the sink and flush that? And maybe push water backwards through the sink? That's pretty much what I've been wondering about, yeah. The main big thing I don't know is how I'd flush the system by pushing water back the way it comes. There's no cleanout upstream of the house, after all; that's where pressurized municipal water comes from. I expect I'd have to turn off the water where it enters the house and then open something up, but it may not be possible.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 22:06
|
|
|
devicenull posted:Start flashing on the bottom left, and work your way up. The flashing you install on the top should be on top of the flashing you've installed on the sides. This is basically the same thing you'd do to install flashing on the top of a window/door, maybe that gives you a useful reference? Yeah I get that, my mental block was around the metal flange of the door top being behind the sheathing. I'd (maybe incorrectly) expect a window or door to sit on or flush with the sheathing. I ended up doing basically what the previous poster suggested and framed it out a little then flashed like normal.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2021 22:33
|
|
|
What's this thing called? It's used as the axle on replacement luggage wheels, but it's too long for my suitcase and sticks out so I want to find a shorter one. It's only partially tapped so I can't just cut it off, I'd have to try to tap it as well which seems like a pain in the rear end.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2021 10:17
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:What's this thing called? It's used as the axle on replacement luggage wheels, but it's too long for my suitcase and sticks out so I want to find a shorter one.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2021 12:03
|
|
|
Always heard them called sex bolts/nuts 
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2021 12:45
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:Internal thread fastener. Final Blog Entry posted:Always heard them called sex bolts/nuts My local hardware store didn't have any so I decided to give it a go rather than ordering and waiting. Turned out that not only did I have to tap them, but also drill out a deeper hole because it was too shallow and the tap didn't fit deeply enough lol  
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2021 14:58
|
|
|
I obtained mod permission to do a post about constructing a finished interior space for cannabis production. It was suggested to me that since my project is the epitome of "lol, do it fuckin fast, man!", it would be appropriate to cross post here. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3980101
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2021 15:44
|
|
|
Koivunen posted:I have a wall at the end of a hallway that I would like to make into an accent wall. My idea is to get some fancy fabric and cover the wall from floor to ceiling, s as that’s about how wide the wall is. What’s the best way to do that? Glue? Hangers? Tacks ? one option would be fabric wall track. its a plastic channel that goes on the perimeter of the wall and you stuff the excess fabric into the little chamber all the way around. depending on what you get it sticks out between 1/2" -2" and is made for fiberglass acoustic panels to go under the fabric.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2021 17:55
|
|
|
I have some bulges on a plaster wall in my 35 year old timber framed house: My surveyor's report noted the plasterwork was satisfactory with normal signs of wear and blemishing and noted no issues with damp in the house generally, but I have seen conflicting information about whether this is just something that looks a bit poo poo that I can put a bookcase in front of and forget or an indicator of damp problems which could threaten the integrity of the structure. If someone ITT who knows this stuff better than me (i.e at all) could tell me how much to freak out that would be great!
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2021 18:08
|
|
|
So, my well has iron bacteria; I have the characteristic brown biofilm inside the toilet tanks, and the water drips orangish. Is there a reason, other than cosmetic, why I should care?
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2021 18:28
|
|
|
devicenull posted:Start flashing on the bottom left, and work your way up. The flashing you install on the top should be on top of the flashing you've installed on the sides. This is basically the same thing you'd do to install flashing on the top of a window/door, maybe that gives you a useful reference?
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2021 03:07
|
|
|
My deck is aging unevenly - what do I need to do about it? The previous owner built a deck before we moved in. It's starting to look not so good. Is this a problem? If so, how bad? And what do we need to do about it? We're in the pacific NW so we have a month or two to deal with this before it will get drizzled on nonstop for 4 months.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2021 16:29
|
|
|
Bryter posted:I have some bulges on a plaster wall in my 35 year old timber framed house: Could you clarify the makeup of the wall a bit? What's bulging exactly? Paint layer or wallpaper or..? Is it plasterboard with a skim layer?
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2021 09:45
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:Could you clarify the makeup of the wall a bit? What's bulging exactly? Paint layer or wallpaper or..? Is it plasterboard with a skim layer? It's plasterboard with a skim layer, and it's the plaster itself that's bulging.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2021 14:49
|
|
|
Bryter posted:It's plasterboard with a skim layer, and it's the plaster itself that's bulging. That's certainly not good, but it could be the effect of an old issue. If it's still actively damp you need to sort it out, but if the original cause was fixed then it's just visual at this point. Do you know if there was a source of water damage that was fixed in that area? Usually from above. If not you'll want to find out if it's still damp either by cutting into it or with a moisture meter (or both). I don't know if cheap moisture meters are any good, I've never used one, but the investigation stage is a service you can pay for. If you do need to cut a hole for inspection it's not a big deal to patch it, though you'd want a plasterer to help with that if it's more than a few cm square. Not a big deal, but prepare to repaint the patch/wall/room depending on your tolerance for inconsistency in the wall's appearance.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2021 16:53
|
|
|
I have three of these (manual) lights in my kitchen. They were installed by the previous owner. I have owned the house for a year and a half. They are all controlled by one lightswitch. Suddenly, none of them are turning on. I checked the breaker and it isn't that. Any ideas? I have no intelligence in this area.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2021 03:49
|
|
|
You might have a GFCI outlet somewhere upstream of the lightswitch. If so, reset that outlet and see if that fixes it. Failing that, PO installation could easily mean they did a bad job inside the junction boxes. If you're comfortable with electrical work, then: - turn off the breaker - verify line is dead with a non-contact voltage tester - open up the box the light switch is on, and make sure the wires are all securely attached. - close everything up, flip the breaker, and test If that doesn't work, then do the same thing except checking the boxes that the lights are mounted to. If any one of them is badly-wired, then everything downstream of that light won't work. I'm guessing you don't know which one is first in line though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2021 04:06
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:You might have a GFCI outlet somewhere upstream of the lightswitch. If so, reset that outlet and see if that fixes it. No dice. Outlet and everything on that wall work fine, though. quote:Failing that, PO installation could easily mean they did a bad job inside the junction boxes. If you're comfortable with electrical work, then: I'm definitely not comfortable with electric work, but I can maybe work up the courage to look inside the switch box. Thank you!
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2021 04:22
|
|
|
spinst posted:I'm definitely not comfortable with electric work, but I can maybe work up the courage to look inside the switch box. Wires are safe so long as they are not electrified. That's what the breaker is for. If anyone else lives with you or has access to the breaker, make sure they know not to flip it while you're working, and the worst you're likely to suffer is cuts on your hands from the sheet metal of the junction box. If you want to get a better understanding of electrical circuits, the Black & Decker homing wiring book is a good place to start. It lays down the rules and safety procedures, and then walks through all the common home circuits and describes how they work, with clear diagrams.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2021 04:35
|
|
|
My Google fu is failing me. I'm in the planning stages of designing a lighting plan for my new patio space, and I want to hang some patio string lights across the space suspended on steel cables. I'd also like all of the bulbs to be lined up when you look at it from the side, and the only way I can think to do that is to terminate the runs myself. Is there an inline splice or tee available for at kind of 16ga sj cable?
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2021 12:33
|
|
|
spinst posted:No dice. Outlet and everything on that wall work fine, though. How old is your house? Our 1930s house has the kitchen overhead light on the same circuit as the upstairs bathroom sockets, with all the rest of the kitchen in its own circuit. You might hunt around for any seemingly unrelated GFI outlets that have popped.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2021 14:28
|
|
|
Is power yard tools at a premium right now? I bought a plate compactor from Home Depot last year for $400 to do a patio because renting one was $100 per day, and I didn't know what I was doing so buying a whole one was a better deal than renting an unknown amount of times. Since using it, a plastic piece has broke off and it's been sitting in my yard under a roof but otherwise exposed for almost a year. It runs great even on the old gas that's been sitting in there. So I listed it on Facebook Marketplace for $250 thinking I got money's worth out of it. My phone has been getting hammered. I've got 55 messages in 12 hours The first one was within minutes and is buying at full price. Are these in high demand? I'm not regretting the sale, as I had originally figured $200 would be my point and listed at $250 for some negotiating room. I just have no idea what's going on with this market apparently.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2021 15:12
|
|
|
I found the internal thread fastener at another store, 4 for $1 is exactly what I needed to avoid my hackjob. My new thing is trying to upgrade my wardrobe room by installing s full width pole, so all my poo poo would fit. I test fitted it with a 1" 25mm PVC pipe  It was obviously going to be too weak, but just to make sure I tried to check if a steel pipe would work with some deflection calculators.  13cm (5"?) Seems like way too much deflecton to me. Granted it's almost 2m long but I did expect it to be this floppy. Am I missing something or would I just have to add an extra point of contact in the middle?
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2021 21:00
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:I found the internal thread fastener at another store, 4 for $1 is exactly what I needed to avoid my hackjob. Yep that seems to be correct. Adding another brace in the middle is probably a good idea, and/or using a thicker and/or larger tube.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2021 21:26
|
|
|
Yeah if you go up a bit in wall thickness you'll probably be ok. Where did you find that calculator? Does it work for square and rectangular box steel too?
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2021 22:28
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Is power yard tools at a premium right now? I bought a plate compactor from Home Depot last year for $400 to do a patio because renting one was $100 per day, and I didn't know what I was doing so buying a whole one was a better deal than renting an unknown amount of times.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2021 00:00
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:
Have you considered wire shelving with an integrated clothes rod? It looks like you’ve got space above where a shelf would be nice. It’s almost Lego-easy to put in. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rubbermaid-FreeSlide-8-ft-x-12-in-White-Universal-Wire-Shelf/3054705
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2021 01:29
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:
You can glue / epoxy a smaller pipe or a dowel inside for more rigidity; e.g. 1" fits snug inside 1-1/4" pipe. Even plastic tubing inset with a layer of epoxy would prevent the outer pipe from deflecting somewhat because the wall thickness has been changed effectively. Any deflection would need to "shear" the epoxy connection between the ID of the outer pipe and the OD of the inner pipe. e: I ran into weird bugs trying to calculate more... Did you calculate it as a center 1/3 load or a center point load? And are the ends "fixed" or "pinned" in the calculations? One of the calculators solved it as 25 lbs on the end of a 2 m arm.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2021 09:24
|
|
|
Wasabi the J posted:You can glue / epoxy a smaller pipe or a dowel inside for more rigidity; e.g. 1" fits snug inside 1-1/4" pipe. When I double checked it I used an evenly distributed load calculator and got 12cm.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2021 09:35
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:Have you considered wire shelving with an integrated clothes rod? It looks like you’ve got space above where a shelf would be nice. It’s almost Lego-easy to put in. Nope, I'm getting Access Denied on that link but I know what you mean. It's a good idea! wesleywillis posted:Yeah if you go up a bit in wall thickness you'll probably be ok. Where did you find that calculator? Does it work for square and rectangular box steel too? I don't know if I'd be able to get thicker than 2mm, short of a solid rod. Found the calc by just googling, most were with imperial units which were breaking my brain but there was this one: https://jl.sg/apps/metric-round-tube-beam-deflection-calculator/ There aren't really any other options so it's not super clear what the setup was. But the results seem consistent with Jaded Burnout posted:When I double checked it I used an evenly distributed load calculator and got 12cm. Jaded Burnout posted:Yep that seems to be correct. Adding another brace in the middle is probably a good idea, and/or using a thicker and/or larger tube.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2021 11:24
|
|
|
Anyone have recommendations on the best way to hire a GC? I need to do a couple renovation projects that are outside my skillset, and asking on a local social media page is just going to get a hundred people recommending their cousin/people who own a single hammer suggesting you call their cellphone, and Googling it is just going to get me whoever spent the most on SEO. I thought maybe asking at a local hardware store or the town building dept, but I'm out of my depth here so I'm hoping there's another option I haven't even considered.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2021 21:19
|
|
|
Strife posted:Anyone have recommendations on the best way to hire a GC? I need to do a couple renovation projects that are outside my skillset, and asking on a local social media page is just going to get a hundred people recommending their cousin/people who own a single hammer suggesting you call their cellphone, and Googling it is just going to get me whoever spent the most on SEO. The best recommendation is friends you know have had work done. Also, my wife is really good at remembering when she sees our neighbors having work, and she'll just go up to their door and ask. We found a couple good contractors that way, they won't recommend them if they do bad work.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2021 21:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 20:00 |
|
|
I’m the UK we have things like checkatrade which I’ve got to assume you have similar, and it is useful, though limited to people willing to spend a grand a year to be listed.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2021 21:22
|
|