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poverty goat posted:You'll never convince me that creality is cool and good for continuing to ship printers with useless warped beds after the problems came to light. If nerds had held them to account like literally any tool or computer supplier would be for shipping defective equipment maybe they'd have had reason to get their poo poo together. You’re not wrong about that. Creality does have a dubious track record. If you decide to cut them off, I can totally understand why. The problem is so does every other printer manufacturer out there. I’m not defending it, but the market is changing too fast for companies to want to do much reworking. They will fix things that are large problems or safety related but other stuff will just go into the next printer. Yes, you should expect a tool you buy be free of defects. That’s not argued here. The point about not having to do a bunch of work calibrating and immediately modifying the printer is what isn’t realistic at the level (no pun intended) printers are at right now.
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Oct 2, 2021 20:17
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YouTubeTekReviewer posted:Somebody tried to hold them accountable and send their defective machine back. You decided to buy it and then throw a tizzy. And they resold a defective product. How in the world is that his fault?
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Oct 2, 2021 20:20
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For many people, spending $50 on upgrades/replacements is a better option than spending 2-3x more on the base printer. That's it. You can get super pissy that this kind of behavior means that companies aren't held accountable, but we don't live in a world where everyone has infinite money to blow on hobbies. The bottom line is that Creality printers, when they work, provide an incredibly affordable entry point that will produce similar quality to much more expensive machines. That's why people buy them, and that's why people put up with their poo poo. Maybe that "unfairly" benefits Creality, but it is what it is.
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Oct 2, 2021 20:23
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Everyone glossed over the list I posted on the last page without comment but I've gotten a bunch of recommendations off site for other printers around the $200 pricepoint which have better QA and more features in the same pattern with a same-sized or larger bed. And I think you guys might be totally wrong at this point about the e3v2 being at all a sensible entrypoint for anyone anymore, especially if the pitch is that it becomes good at $350, which is almost a prusa mini. I think some of you guys are just smoking sunk cost fallacy
poverty goat fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Oct 2, 2021 |
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Oct 2, 2021 20:51
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It’s not really a secret, there are plenty of buyers guides around talking about how printers at the $200ish price point are likely to require a bunch of work, if not a bunch of new parts, before you have a working machine. For some people the tinkering is the fun part. Up to you if you want to pay money to a company who operates that way.
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Oct 2, 2021 21:29
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Am I missing something here? You bought an open box item, which turned out to be not just an open box, but a previous assembled, used and disassembled printer. Instead of going on about a crusade about how terrible Enders are, how about just returning it?.
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Oct 2, 2021 21:32
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poverty goat posted:Everyone glossed over the list I posted on the last page without comment but I've gotten a bunch of recommendations off site for other printers around the $200 pricepoint which have better QA and more features in the same pattern with a same-sized or larger bed. And I think you guys might be totally wrong at this point about the e3v2 being at all a sensible entrypoint for anyone anymore, especially if the pitch is that it becomes good at $350, which is almost a prusa mini. I think some of you guys are just smoking sunk cost fallacy I'd urge you to avoid the $200 printers if you're not wanting to tinker; trade-offs are made to hit that price point. Take a good look at the Artillery Genius and its new iteration, the Genius Pro. The Anycubic Vyper comes with a lot of sensible upgrades too.
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Oct 2, 2021 22:05
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I've finally got my ABS+ shrinkage dialed in. Is there a way in PrusaSlicer or Cura to automatically scale objects when slicing based on the material selected? No obvious setting in Prusa, Cura has a billion options so I may have missed one...
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Oct 2, 2021 22:14
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My ender 3v2 is now printing happily, I configured UBL firmware, leveled the bed manually again then cleaned it and then created the new mesh. Took a while (I did the full 15x15) but after my prints are coming out wonderfully. Thanks for that tip, never thought I would be tinkering with the firmware itself but it was really simple.
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Oct 2, 2021 22:28
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Unless your bed has visible ripples in it or something, a 15 x 15 mesh is ludicrously overkill. I probe 5 x 5 on a 350mm bed.
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Oct 2, 2021 22:31
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GotDonuts posted:My ender 3v2 is now printing happily, I configured UBL firmware, leveled the bed manually again then cleaned it and then created the new mesh. Took a while (I did the full 15x15) but after my prints are coming out wonderfully. Thanks for that tip, never thought I would be tinkering with the firmware itself but it was really simple. Yeah, I really like UBL. I think mine probed 159 points and interpolated the rest, but I'm fine with that because it's solved the issues I was having with my pretty-dang-warped bed. Glad this has your printer performing the way you want it to. Acid Reflux posted:Unless your bed has visible ripples in it or something, a 15 x 15 mesh is ludicrously overkill. I probe 5 x 5 on a 350mm bed. I think with Unified Bed Leveling it makes sense; doing it once in a blue moon to create the mesh is a time commitment up front, but then doing a mesh-tilting probe of 2x2 every print is pretty dang fast. You'd never probe 15x15 before every print, it takes ~40 minutes with a BL-Touch. My Ender 3 v2 has a 235x235mm bed and it has some pretty good peaks and valleys; I'm not saying that 5x5 wouldn't be adequate, but I do think that, in this instance, more is better - especially when it has to be done so infrequently.
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Oct 2, 2021 22:35
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If I had a bed that actually required that amount of measuring and compensation, even once, it would have immediately gone in the trash.
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Oct 2, 2021 22:55
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E3D announced a new hotend, and I gotta say I'm very excited to get my hands on one. Toolless, cold nozzle changes is extremely cool. And for half the price of a mosquito. Only brass nozzles to start, which is a bit of a bummer. EDIT: also it looks like Prusa is teasing a CoreXY printer that is not the XL in their Dubai expo blog post. https://blog.prusaprinters.org/the-future-of-manufacturing-by-prusa-research_55993/ Zorro KingOfEngland fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Oct 3, 2021 |
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Oct 3, 2021 00:06
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E3D also debuted a new nozzle. Some buzzword name I can’t recall, claim it’s basically wear proof and plastic doesn’t stick to it, but it’s E3D so probably closer to the truth than you might think. Price is similar to NozzleX. All this from a YouTube interview with one of their awkward fellows.
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Oct 3, 2021 00:33
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Acid Reflux posted:If I had a bed that actually required that amount of measuring and compensation, even once, it would have immediately gone in the trash. Right, I was also under the general impression that a bed being sold for money would be flat enough to function as such. Where are people buying these pringle-shaped beds and why would you throw more money at that problem instead of having a defective product immediately replaced?
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Oct 3, 2021 01:08
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Javid posted:Right, I was also under the general impression that a bed being sold for money would be flat enough to function as such. Where are people buying these pringle-shaped beds and why would you throw more money at that problem instead of having a defective product immediately replaced? I guess they just can't stand sending their money to Czechia.
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Oct 3, 2021 01:12
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Can’t believe you all bought the wrong printer.
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Oct 3, 2021 01:15
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Hey resin people, how often do you do any kind of routine maintenance on your FEP, vats, and build plates? I'm not talking about replacing things, but just general cleaning. I only use my resin printer for personal stuff, but I print a whole lot with it and I just ordered another one. I hardly ever do any cleaning on the machine itself. I rarely give the build plate a good cleaning, I mostly just wipe it off between prints and, uh, sometimes not even then. I only empty the vat when I won't be printing for a few days or if I'm changing the resin, and I usually just use a little IPA and wipe down whatever's left on the FEP until it looks pretty clear. I pretty much never get failed prints or obvious quality issues, so ultimately I don't think about it much. It hit me today that I'm probably loving things up, so how often should I be cleaning this stuff and should I be doing more to clean to FEP? Also, how much should I worry about keeping the build plate clean aside from just wiping away the excess resin?
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Oct 3, 2021 01:18
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Honestly, I only clean/lube/level etc after a fuckup or if I’m changing resins drastically. Probably should do more but I’ve put bottles and bottles through my OG Mars without doing more than rubbing some lube on the lead screw occasionally. FEP replace definitely only when I’m getting bad artifacts from wear on it or obviously if it’s punctured.
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Oct 3, 2021 01:40
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Sorry to anyone I berated earlier, the printer and I had a bad morning and spooky, inexplicably things were happening with that thing that stopped me from really even testing the extruder I'd just torn down and put back together. I might have been naive getting into this but the plan when I impulse bought the mystery box was always to avail myself of the amazon return policy if I couldn't get anything out of it, and I think it's headed right where it belongs. I learned a lot from my Ender 3 v2 and put that to work ordering an Anycubic i3 Mega S for 199 based on recurring themes in reviews that it works out of the box, doesn't need any extra parts to perform really well and is well supported by the company e: also after watching a bunch of reviews of newish printers around the $200 price point at 1.5x on youtube i feel like the e3v2 should be like $150-200 poverty goat fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Oct 3, 2021 |
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Oct 3, 2021 02:23
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Javid posted:Right, I was also under the general impression that a bed being sold for money would be flat enough to function as such. Where are people buying these pringle-shaped beds and why would you throw more money at that problem instead of having a defective product immediately replaced? Wibla posted:I guess they just can't stand sending their money to Czechia. Bought i3 MK3S+ and it checked all my boxes except the need to tinker; bought cheap Ender 3 v2 for that and boy did it deliver. 10/10 would do again. I'm running both of them probably 12-15 hours each day. My E3v2 is probably one of the worst ones I've read about in that it had a bunch of little things wrong, but I wanted something to learn 3DP troubleshooting. It's been great. Super loving frustrating at times - that Z-limit switch had me pulling my hair out until I realized what was going on - but I'm a better printer for having gone through it, and when I finally hit my first snag with my Prusa, I was better equipped to deal with it. My bed is warped enough that I could probably get a warranty replacement, but not so bad that a BL-Touch and Unified Bed Leveling can't compensate for it. In retrospect, I wish I'd at least tried the 5x5 manual mesh first simply because it's free to try, but I've got it sorted now and it's been perfect first layers ever since.
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Oct 3, 2021 03:09
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Speaking of $200 filament printers, how does the Elegoo Neptune rate? I'm pretty impressed overall with the Mars 2 mono and it turns out I did need a bigger buildable surface than the Prusa Mini has. (Meaning I should have bought the full size Prusa instead.  )Uncle Jessy on youtube seemed enamored with it, but he also seems to get models for review from Elegoo, so grain of salt?
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Oct 3, 2021 03:18
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NofrikinfuN posted:Speaking of $200 filament printers, how does the Elegoo Neptune rate? I'm pretty impressed overall with the Mars 2 mono and it turns out I did need a bigger buildable surface than the Prusa Mini has. (Meaning I should have bought the full size Prusa instead. The Neptune 2 is pretty great for the price. It has a run out sensor and assisted manual leveling which I like quite a bit. The build plate is horribly cheap but that’s easy enough to slap a new one down. The extruder is plastic but so far so good. I put yellow springs I had extra on it and the larger old adjustment gears from an Ender 5. I had them left over from replacing the ones on the E5 with red aluminum ones ( just bling 😜). Honestly I didn’t even *need* to do that but I had the parts laying around so why not. It prints very nice for a $150 printer. Hell it would print nice for a $300 printer. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Oct 3, 2021 |
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Oct 3, 2021 04:43
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Does anyone have an opinion on the Sovol SV01? It looks to be a rebuilt Creality machine (the silent board even says creality right on it) but I like that it's direct drive and has dual z-screws. It's got a mediocre looking (titan clone?) extruder and a nonstandard hotend and nozzles, though. Also I think a 300mm z-height might be too tall for the space where I keep my current printer. Also it seems overpriced for that hardware/design in the current market, but, hey, no bowden tube. Really I'm just looking for a 220x220x220 class machine with direct drive that'll take an all-metal v6 hotend (or something I could easily swap a mosquito or whatever onto?)
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Oct 3, 2021 06:32
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I clean my Saturn completely after every print, I don’t know if this is wrong but given it’s in the garage with welders and poo poo being used I don’t like the idea of leaving resin sitting it.
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Oct 3, 2021 06:45
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Certainly sounds like creality made their name with a half decent printer, rode that for a while and let standards slip again. The 3pro I bought for £188 nearly 2 years ago has been pretty good, obviously new springs and extruder arm then later a spring steel bed but nothing fundamentally broken. So who's the new hotness we should be recommending, apart from "don't buy badly assembled open box returns from Amazon"?
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Oct 3, 2021 08:22
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Just bought a Mars 2, a kilogram of elegoo green resin, and an anycubic wash and cure 2.0 Station basically on a whim. My only immediate plan for it is to make some imprint tools for my Wife’s soap making, but I’m sure I’ll find other pointless uses for it. Is there anything I should pick up to make use of this thing effectively? Note: I’ve got a pretty fully stocked lab and workshop so stuff like plastic scrapers, nitrile gloves, solvents are all accounted for already more or less.
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Oct 3, 2021 09:16
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Probably want to make sure you seal the imprint tools with some kind of varnish or clear coat since resin has weird properties and can never really be counted on to be skin safe, wouldn’t want to transfer that onto soap
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Oct 3, 2021 13:47
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Anything I should know about screwing into pla? I got some AliExpress svideo sockets that expect to be screwed into whatever, so it needs to hold solidly enough for removing tight cables but it's not weight bearing or the like.
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Oct 3, 2021 14:45
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Fantastic Foreskin posted:Anything I should know about screwing into pla? I got some AliExpress svideo sockets that expect to be screwed into whatever, so it needs to hold solidly enough for removing tight cables but it's not weight bearing or the like. Best options are doing a captured nut like Prusa does on their 3D printed printer parts, or metal heat set screw inserts for anything that may be screwed in more than once. If it’s a one time deal then I’ve gotten away with just making a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw (including threads) and making sure to have extra perimeters so there’s lots of plastic to deform around the screw.
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Oct 3, 2021 14:51
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Paradoxish posted:Hey resin people, how often do you do any kind of routine maintenance on your FEP, vats, and build plates? I'm not talking about replacing things, but just general cleaning. If you don't print with a flex plate it probably is worth it to run the metal scraper over your build plate after each print though since even the tiniest bit of metal shaving sticking up off the plate is enough to puncture your FEP.
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Oct 3, 2021 14:56
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Doctor Zero posted:The Neptune 2 is pretty great for the price. It has a run out sensor and assisted manual leveling which I like quite a bit. The build plate is horribly cheap but that’s easy enough to slap a new one down. Thanks, that makes me feel a bit better about the idea of picking one up for the larger pieces. I should have done a bit more reading about the sizes of things I was looking at printing like this thread suggested, but I stopped at approximating the build space and thought "yeah, this looks like enough space!" - I am pretty bad at those kinds of estimates.
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Oct 3, 2021 16:19
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Bodanarko posted:Probably want to make sure you seal the imprint tools with some kind of varnish or clear coat since resin has weird properties and can never really be counted on to be skin safe, wouldn’t want to transfer that onto soap Good call, I hadn’t actually thought of that. I’ll try a few when I get all set up and see what sticks.
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Oct 3, 2021 16:55
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NofrikinfuN posted:Thanks, that makes me feel a bit better about the idea of picking one up for the larger pieces.
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Oct 3, 2021 17:16
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Fantastic Foreskin posted:Anything I should know about screwing into pla? I got some AliExpress svideo sockets that expect to be screwed into whatever, so it needs to hold solidly enough for removing tight cables but it's not weight bearing or the like. If it's a screw fitting that you expect to take apart and reassemble more than a handful of times, you should get a heat-set insert or use a captive nut, or just put in a through-hole and make it a bolted joint with a nut on the other side. If it's something to be assembled once, threading directly into the plastic will be fine. The best way to do this is to print a properly sized hole and thread it with a tap. You can look up charts of what size of drill (printed hole) you need for certain tapped threads, and taps are cheap on Amazon. Note that the standard four-flute metal taps will work alright, but if you're doing a lot of tapping plastic you should spring for two-flute spiral taps instead, which are lovely. If you don't want to use a tap, most screws will self-tap into PLA reasonably well. I've found that subtracting 75% of the thread pitch from the nominal diameter is a good rule of thumb for 3D printed self-tapping screw holes. e.g. for a M3 x 0.5 screw: 0.5 * 0.75 = 0.375 3 - 0.375 = 2.625 So your holes for self-tapping 3mm screws should be modeled at 2.625 mm, assuming your printer is in good calibration. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Oct 3, 2021 |
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Oct 3, 2021 17:58
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I'm going to be alone for two weeks with my ADD kid, and about to impulse purchase an FDM printer to make it more manageable. Neptune 2 and Mega zero 2 are the ones jumping out based on immediate availability for the local equivalent of $250USD. No intention to use it for exotic filaments (yet), just black/gray PLA filament for minecraft stuff and game pieces. All3dp gives the impression that both are good for that type of basic use, but I'd appreciate commentary on how it handles, spares worth having on hand, and quality of life upgrades worth getting from the goon hive mind.
Guest2553 fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Oct 3, 2021 |
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Oct 3, 2021 19:16
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What's the deal w/ cheap bulk brass nozzles?
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Oct 3, 2021 19:23
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poverty goat posted:What's the deal w/ cheap bulk brass nozzles? You get what you pay for. Higher likelihood of burrs and poor machining on inside & maybe bungled threads. That being said, that’s all I buy for my squad of Prusa mini+s & mk3Ss and an E3pro. Quality E3D nozzles are cheap enough that it’s probably worth the cost but I’ve never had any issues with the cheapos.
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Oct 3, 2021 19:33
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Bodanarko posted:You get what you pay for. Higher likelihood of burrs and poor machining on inside & maybe bungled threads. That being said, that’s all I buy for my squad of Prusa mini+s & mk3Ss and an E3pro. Quality E3D nozzles are cheap enough that it’s probably worth the cost but I’ve never had any issues with the cheapos. Any recommendations? On aliexpress it's like 100 tips for  so I was thinking about ordering a bunch of .4 and an assortment of misc unless that's a terrible idea for some reason
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Oct 3, 2021 19:48
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poverty goat posted:Any recommendations? On aliexpress it's like 100 tips for So, after complaining about things going pearshaped after buying the cheapest of the cheap, you're going to double down?. Sure, nozzles don't' make a huge difference, but they do make a difference.
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Oct 3, 2021 20:10
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