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Deviant posted:He's referring to a different kind of resin here, i believe, more like this: Tom mentions that in his video towards the end.
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Oct 22, 2021 20:47
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resin curing is pretty exothermic I think, but I'm not sure what temps it gets to
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Oct 22, 2021 20:48
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If your pei isn’t sticking quite as well as it used to and you’ve already scrubbed the surface with dish soap etc, then you can revitalize it with a quick sanding with some 600grit sand paper or some steel wool. You don’t want to remove any pei, or any more than you have to, you just want to scuff the surface to give the PLA something to grip into during printing.
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Oct 22, 2021 20:57
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Class Warcraft posted:What kind of stuff do you sell? I do larger scale stuff - dragons, big demons, stuff like that. Usually sell for $75-100 per unit, sell a couple per week. The limiting factor is mostly how lazy I feel about printing/cleaning/curing.
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Oct 22, 2021 22:21
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 Photon Mono SE trip report: Well, that was easy. Granted my 2 FDM printers were respectively build from complete kit (Delta printer) partly sourced kit (Corexy), so setting this up was...well easy. If it hadn't been for the need to add a couple of spacer to compensate for the flexplate system, it would literally have been 5 minutes. Install handle, remove film from acrylic, plug in, level (2 clicks, tighten one bolt, 1 more click). Shake resin, fill resin, print. Wash/Cure station is basic and a bit janky. Motor is unnecessarily noisy and lid for the curing doesn't really seat positively...but it works. Using Siraya tech fast. Smell is not overpowering, but not pleasant either. Just using an air purifier thing for now, but a better solution is definitely needed. I'm now thinking more a fume-hood thing, as most of the smell comes from when opening the printer and and I can imagine filtering/pouring resin back is going to stank up the place as well. Other things I don't like: Having to use USB stick to transfer files. So stupid. Is there an Octoprint like solution out there? Flailing around a bit in both prusa, lycheeslicer and photon workshop. I can't get prusa to export STLs with the supports? Lychee works, but ads will drive me nuts. (Finally found the exposure settings.). Anyway..still astounded at how easy this is. Post processing doesn't seem to bad. 5-6 minutes total? Wash 2 minutes, dry (heat gun on lowest setting), cure for 2 minutes.
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Oct 22, 2021 22:36
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Looking for some advice on pricing. My mega 8k is going to be here soon. What's the current opinion on resin pricing for giant prints? I know I'm going to be printing some crazy stuff for myself, but with this giant fucker I figure I could also make a couple bucks on the side. Effortpost inbound: I have some experience here. I worked in costing for a gigantic manufacturing business, did pricing for a software product (both SaaS and on-prem), and spent many years of my youth going to craft shows where my mom sold handmade goods (and thus qualified for the Business membership at Costco, then called Price Club) Pricing consultants say that organizations almost always err on the side of charging too little. It's usually even worse with small-time hobbyist entrepreneurs. I'll start by saying for the products you're describing, there's no such thing as "overcharging". You're selling doodads and nerd stuff, not life saving medication or food and water in a hurricane. Profit margin is the most important thing Consider a product you determine "costs" you $10 (materials, labor, machine-time amortizing maintenance and investment, wastage, returns, handling costs). You sell it for $14, making a tidy margin, and sell 100 of them in a month at that price, so $400 in profit. If you instead sold it for $20, you're making 2.5x the profit on each item. Fewer people will buy at that price, but let's say that 30 people are buying at that price. Your profit is $300, but you've gotten 75% of the profit from the first scenario for 30% of the units and associated work. Pricing too high is something of a self-correcting problem. It's much easier to lower prices than it is to raise prices. You can even test price drops temporarily with promo codes or sales or whatever. It's harder to do an anti-coupon, where you ask people to pay more for a limited time. You'll be able to figure out if people aren't willing to pay what you're asking, that's easy. In the previous example, that's the 70 people who stopped being buyers at $20, but would be customers at $14. What's harder to determine is whether you're underpricing. How much *more* were each of the hundred customers at $14 were willing to pay (consumer surplus). We know that 30% of them were willing to pay $20, but because we priced at $14 that's all they gave us. Maybe through experimentation you find that at the $18 price point, you get 70 buyers at $8 profit, for a total of $560. Hooray! Let's talk about costing. Prusa posted a good article of babby's first 3d printing costing guide. https://blog.prusaprinters.org/how-to-calculate-printing-costs_38650/ Some is easy to estimate, like the consumables you mentioned. You know how many grams of resin are in the final product, and you know how much that costs. These are variable costs, you only incur them when you're actually printing something. They also noted electricity, which in their example was negligible (~2 cents/hr). Machine time is the other one you want to think about. In the article, they just sort of pick a number of saying how long you want to pay back your equipment investment. In their example, they said 6 months running the printer 24/7, or 4392 hours of print time. It's a simplification of the concept of equipment amortization. You need to know what it costs, estimate how much it's worth at the end, and estimate the asset's useful life. For the end of life asset value, if it's completely worn out and beyond economical repair at the end of what you're calling the "useful life", then it's zero dollars. Maybe you say I’m going to be running a print through this thing with 80% utilization (~19 hours of printing a day) for 3 years until it dies forever (21,024 hours). Call it 20k hours to get a round number. A $1,600 machine with a useful life of 20,000 hours means you’re “renting” it from yourself at $0.08/hr. That’s part of your cost that you use for printing time. For labor, there’s going to be a per-unit amount that you’ll want to cost in (loading the machine, starting the print, unloading the print, etc.). That’s where you estimate what your time is worth to you. If you have a regular job getting paid hourly or salary, you might think of it like that. Don’t. That’s why overtime pay exists, because after a certain point you’re not willing to divert hours from your free time unless they’re paying you enough for it. The value of your time outside of work is different. Maybe you frame it in a way of “how much would I pay in order to not have to do this myself?” and set that at a minimum. Or think of it as “how much would I be willing to pay to buy-back an extra day on the weekend?” You’re also going to have some overhead, which is going to be card/merchant fees (etsy, ebay), time and effort to label, pack and ship stuff, and some overall administrative stuff like tracking orders, dealing with returns, etc. Back to the example of the $14, $18, and $20 price points. You make the most profit selling 70 of your product @ $8 profit ($560). What if you sold a second product too, with similar price characteristics? Suppose you get into a situation where you can sell 30 of ProductA @ $10 profit AND 30 of ProductB at $10 profit. Now you’re moving 60 units total, with a total gross margin of $600. That’s even better than 70 @ $8 profit, for less overhead cost and lower risk of failed prints and waste (targeting 60 successful prints instead of 70) What's right for you? Depends on how far you want to go with this, what price people are willing to pay, and what your plans for scale are. Low volume, high margin is the goal state, especially at the beginning. Maybe you discover that you end up moving more product than your printer can really handle, and instead of raising existing prices you add new offerings or offload some of the work to a cheaper manufacturing process (resin cast in silicone molds?) Mom’s crafts were medium volume, low margin, and it didn’t work great.
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Oct 22, 2021 22:36
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That is great info, thanks for writing it up and sharing it. I also really like the idea of already-complete prints that go on eBay, like the earlier post said. I never thought of doing things that way, and I like that a lot because it's not on-demand print service with customer-provided models (which frankly has a whole other set of hidden costs to it.)
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Oct 23, 2021 00:57
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canyoneer posted:*snip* Ya'll done a service here. Thank you.
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Oct 23, 2021 01:37
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The Eyes Have It posted:That is great info, thanks for writing it up and sharing it. I'll be honest, depending on what your looking to sell, print on demand is kind of the way to go. I do miniatures on Etsy and I could r imagine having everything pre-printed and having to keep an inventory With filament printing, if your only carrying a couple items then I totally get printing them ahead of time because of time constraints. I'm looking at selling wet pallets and at 30+hrs a print it'll make no sense for me not to make then ahead of time.
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Oct 23, 2021 01:40
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Well, by print on demand I mean running a print service that is "send me a 3D model and I will print it for you" like 3D Hubs used to be. That has a lot of its own issues completely unrelated to the actual printing and shipping. hosed up models, poorly-printable or unprintable geometry, fiddly customers, all kinds of stuff.
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Oct 23, 2021 01:45
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The Eyes Have It posted:Well, by print on demand I mean running a print service that is "send me a 3D model and I will print it for you" like 3D Hubs used to be. That has a lot of its own issues completely unrelated to the actual printing and shipping. hosed up models, poorly-printable or unprintable geometry, fiddly customers, all kinds of stuff. Oh, yeah no that's hosed up and I would never do it.
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Oct 23, 2021 02:06
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Yeah I should mention that I only have like 2-3 items "in stock" at a time, I'm just using this as extra cash for hobby stuff / beer money, not running a business.
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Oct 23, 2021 02:46
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Deviant posted:The old one was having issues even after a dish-soap cleaning, so I think I've just roughed up the PEI not taking care of it properly and being a beginner. Maybe I'll swap it eventually. Ironically, "roughing up" is perhaps exactly what it needs. Sand the whole bed surface down with 400~800 grit sandpaper, then wash it again, and see what happens. You might find that it's as good as new.
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Oct 23, 2021 05:55
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Every single time I've agreed to print a file a customer has purchased somewhere else I've sunk insane time into it to get it to print correctly. Each time I tell myself "never again" but somehow can't say no to customers. Don't be me.
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Oct 23, 2021 06:01
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Ghostnuke posted:resin curing is pretty exothermic I think, but I'm not sure what temps it gets to Also touched on in the video I linked.
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Oct 23, 2021 14:04
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Sagebrush posted:Ironically, "roughing up" is perhaps exactly what it needs. Sand the whole bed surface down with 400~800 grit sandpaper, then wash it again, and see what happens. You might find that it's as good as new. Well, the new one is set and works a champ, so now the alternate sheet can be a project. The only issue I'm seeing now is some pillowing(?) on top of finished parts:  and i'm wondering what could provoke that. This is jessie PLA printed @ 180C. Insufficient infill to support the top layers? Using 5% Cubic:  A cooling issue? Will have to recheck fans, but the Prusa Selftest says both fans are good and the part fan is definitely throwing air. Not enough top layers? Settings are for 5 layers at .2mm and prusaslicer verifies actual top shell is 1mm Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Oct 23, 2021 |
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Oct 23, 2021 16:42
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InternetJunky posted:Every single time I've agreed to print a file a customer has purchased somewhere else I've sunk insane time into it to get it to print correctly. Each time I tell myself "never again" but somehow can't say no to customers. Don't be me. Queue me printing a 2.5 foot Long centipede for a guy. Rad, but sucked to print. 
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Oct 23, 2021 17:14
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w00tmonger posted:Queue me printing a 2.5 foot Long centipede for a guy. Rad, but sucked to print.
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Oct 23, 2021 17:21
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Deviant posted:and i'm wondering what could provoke that. Maybe globs accumulating on the nozzle and getting trapped in the part, could be overextrusion
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Oct 23, 2021 17:23
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mewse posted:Maybe globs accumulating on the nozzle and getting trapped in the part, could be overextrusion I'm willing to check, though I've never hosed with the extrusion settings on my Prusa before. Edit: a 100mm extrusion test puts me within 1mm of expected actual extrusion, if anything i'm a hair under-extruding, but that could be measurement error. I think it's a settings issue rather than a hardware issue, so I'm gonna crank out a benchy real quick at a pure default Prusa profile to see how that fares Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Oct 23, 2021 |
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Oct 23, 2021 17:35
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180 is quite cool for PLA in general, and in my experience, Jessie in particular likes to run a little bit hot in all of my machines (like 210-215). That's obviously not a hard and fast rule to follow, but I'd bump yours up to at least 200 and maybe increase the infill density a bit. Those rough top surfaces look like the machine's working just a bit too hard to extrude smoothly.
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Oct 23, 2021 18:18
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w00tmonger posted:Queue me printing a 2.5 foot Long centipede for a guy. Rad, but sucked to print. The difference though is that this is an incredible model and not a series of architectural windows that must be printed to an exacting standard.
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Oct 23, 2021 18:23
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Deviant posted:I'm willing to check, though I've never hosed with the extrusion settings on my Prusa before. Just a head's up that if you're messing with extruder calibration that the value you should be checking is how much the extruder pulls in, not how much comes out the nozzle.
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Oct 23, 2021 18:45
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Just a head's up that if you're messing with extruder calibration that the value you should be checking is how much the extruder pulls in, not how much comes out the nozzle. Yeah, I did it by marking 120mm of filament pre-extruder, extruding 100mm, and measuring the difference. Edit: one beautiful benchy, proving once again the problem is operator error.   
Deviant fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Oct 23, 2021 |
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Oct 23, 2021 18:54
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It's amazing how much that little ~25mm long 3mm Teflon tube matters in the heat break. I was fully expecting it to be something more major and I was just chasing after nothing and telling myself that it wouldn't get me back and running but the tube arrived today and all is well. 
Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Oct 24, 2021 |
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Oct 24, 2021 03:41
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Wrap it up, nozzailures. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNJdv5bFGOg
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Oct 24, 2021 21:42
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I have so many .4 nozzles, some that came extra with the printer, and it seems some came with every upgrade i bought over time. So I dont feel bad about jus popping off one and tossing in a new one rather then cleaning it to a shine when i have a clog, etc, but i seem to be going through a lot of them lately It seems like every other print with PETG I am getting some backpressue, making the extruder click, and i take things off and swipe them out. Going with the Luke Hotened fix really makes this quick, and i have not had any plastic filling up my hotend and heatbreak Are there good nozzles and bad nozzles on amazon? Any to avoid? I just want to grab a bunch of 'known good' ones and go from there
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Oct 24, 2021 22:36
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The only issue I keep running into with my Ender3 is smushing on the first 5ish layers. Past that, everything looks great. On this, top was 100% speed, bottom was 125% but my extruder didn't like it. The only thing I can figure is the Z axis just doesn't move well at the lowest limit. But with the leadscrew removed it rolls fine. I might try removing the leadscrew and reinstalling it upside-down just to eliminate if there's a slightly boogered thread at that level. Or maybe it's not mechanical at all. Running default 60c bed heat, adhesion is good. Anything else I should be looking at?
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Oct 24, 2021 23:17
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If your leadscrew is binding up, that will be an issue. If you roll it on a table is it stright or bent? If bent get another Are your gantries aligned correctly? I ended up inserting mine from the extruder hole down to the zstepper, and that assured i was aligned. You can also print various brackets that help with this. Also loosen the screws at the top slightly
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Oct 24, 2021 23:44
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Looks like I got my large object settings dialed in, this top layer still has a tiny bit of roughness, but an extra layer or two ought to fix that.
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Oct 25, 2021 01:26
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Enos Shenk posted:The only issue I keep running into with my Ender3 is smushing on the first 5ish layers. Past that, everything looks great. that issue is called elephant's footing; causes include excessive heat, but it also just happens to some extent. you can measure your test objects for exactly how much larger than intended the bottom is, and there is a setting in cura to compensate for it. What material, though? When I chased this issue with PLA, I had been running the bed at 60 as well, and that was most of my problem
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Oct 25, 2021 05:26
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insta posted:Anyone now looking for Voron 2.4's: Nerobro posted:II think I agree with this. The trident is what voron was meant to be. snail posted:As a general purpose printer, for sure. I love my 2.4, but if I were to do it again, hecks yes, a Trident.
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Oct 25, 2021 05:44
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Combat Pretzel posted:gently caress no, low center of gravity is where it's at. And no leadscrew backlash. Leadscrew backlash is absorbed by gravity. Low center of gravity has no meaning on machines that are so large. Enos Shenk posted:The only issue I keep running into with my Ender3 is smushing on the first 5ish layers. Past that, everything looks great.*snip* Your first layer is to low, and it takes a couple layers for the excess filament to squish out. You need to raise the head a little bit. Or your slicer might have elephants foot compensation. Your printer is "fine".
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Oct 25, 2021 05:54
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Combat Pretzel posted:gently caress no, low center of gravity is where it's at. And no leadscrew backlash. If you have backlash on a leadscrew BED you have hosed up your assembly far beyond what is even worth mocking you over. A lot of the PIF guys are running VT's or V1.8's and they aren't flopping all over the place 🤷♂️
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Oct 25, 2021 06:16
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That is 100% an issue where the x gantry isn’t lifting enough/at all on layer 2, 3, 4 and possibly 5. Adjusting for elephants foot is just a bandaid rather than an actual mechanical fix to the machine. The wheels on either side of your X gantry that ride up and down the vertical extrusions are too tight. Loosen the eccentric nut so the bottom wheels can be turned easily by hand, but don’t spin freely.
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Oct 25, 2021 06:28
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Back at the office after a year of WFH, went to check out the Zortrax M300 that’s come in and uh 
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Oct 25, 2021 12:35
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I suggest using a power drill
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Oct 25, 2021 12:57
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If it's kosher to request edits, would anyone be willing to change this Thingiverse spool holder design to use 608ZZ bearings instead of 6004 bearings? Basically I just need the pegs, holes, and washers to be 8mm instead of 12mm. I don't trust my absolute lack of F360 skills and am not yet at the spot to learn 'em. Maybe over Thanksgiving. Also if anyone is aware of a Lack clone or enclosure that'll fit over a Tronxy X5SA, please let me know.
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Oct 25, 2021 13:43
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MJP posted:If it's kosher to request edits, would anyone be willing to change this Thingiverse spool holder design to use 608ZZ bearings instead of 6004 bearings? Basically I just need the pegs, holes, and washers to be 8mm instead of 12mm. I don't trust my absolute lack of F360 skills and am not yet at the spot to learn 'em. Maybe over Thanksgiving. Problem is the part which is holding the pegs. To get the bearings over it, the pegs can't be bigger than 8mm, that part is 9.8mm. Which means you would have to adjust the parts that hold them too.  Not sure, can the pegs be split in the middle? Then it would be easy to adjust just the middle part.
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Oct 25, 2021 14:00
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I ended up finding cheap bearings, so no need - IDK why some of these things were $300 per bearing vs $1 per bearing, heck Then I guess the other question remains - is there Lack-esque cheap enclosures for X5SAs? There's one guy on Youtube who did a full-on plexiglas enclosure, which is doable but I liked the look of a Lack as a frame.
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Oct 25, 2021 14:57
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