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Does anyone have any experience printing a differential, or right angle gear using FDM, at toy scale? We keep buying battery powered toy trains (brio style, about 1.5" wide) but my 3 year old nephew makes short work of the geared drivetrain which renders the entire $20 toy useless because one custom unreplaceable gear got stripped That tiny power drill looks perfect but is probably only possible with resin? Edit: maybe I should just use crossed helical gears? Hadlock fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Oct 27, 2021 |
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Oct 27, 2021 21:10
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Hadlock posted:Does anyone have any experience printing a differential, or right angle gear using FDM, at toy scale? We keep buying battery powered toy trains (brio style, about 1.5" wide) but my 3 year old nephew makes short work of the geared drivetrain which renders the entire $20 toy useless because one custom unreplaceable gear got stripped Do you have pics of the entire toy and innards, along with the gear?
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Oct 27, 2021 21:12
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ImplicitAssembler posted:
Where are you getting $70? A cursory Google search for 28mm X-wings is giving me sets that include (1) or (2) X-wings and Tie-Fighter combinations for less than $40 (already painted, with rule books/etc. like it's a starter set for playing, individual miniatures are less).
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Oct 27, 2021 21:15
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biracial bear for uncut posted:$10.49 on Amazon Slicing takes a few minutes, maybe 10-15 minutes tops. Another 20-25 minutes for cleaning and removing supports and other post-processing prior to getting any paint on it. So, 30-45 minutes tops. I don't count printing time as it's literally fire and forget and I can do other things while it's printing. This doesn't really change if I scale it up, either, apart from maybe a little more time in the slicer if I decide to add some more manual supports, and maybe washing/curing it a little longer during post-processing. So say an hour, hour and fifteen minutes tops. The only part that becomes bothersome is if a print fails, because then you have to clean the resin vat to make sure there's no bits floating around, and re-examine your sliced file to see where supports might be needed or other settings tweaked. That can be a pain, but luckily I've been printing in resin long enough that even that isn't so much of a pain as it originally was. As far as time goes, well I still pretty much operate like the pandemic hasn't stopped (because it hasn't) so I don't really go out much beyond work and running errands. So, to borrow a phrase mentioned earlier ITT, I'm not time poor at all at the moment. 
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Oct 27, 2021 21:19
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poll plane variant posted:Do you have pics of the entire toy and innards, along with the gear? Result for "brio toy train gears". I think the one I have is Chinese and just has a more direct drive engine output shaft -> main gear -> pair of bevel gears, one per wheel. Nephew pushes down on the train for maximum wheel grip and then zips it back and forth, shatters the nylon gears. Printing a replacement gear and getting it on the tiny shaft probably isn't worth it In this photo, I think brio had engineered away the problem by distributing the forces across more gear inches and axles when it's back driven by a toddler (not my photo)  Edit the whole thing is about 1.5x larger than your thumb, maybe half a hotdog Hadlock fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Oct 27, 2021 |
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Oct 27, 2021 21:23
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Where are you getting $70? A cursory Google search for 28mm X-wings is giving me sets that include (1) or (2) X-wings and Tie-Fighter combinations for less than $40 (already painted, with rule books/etc. like it's a starter set for playing, individual miniatures are less). GW = Games workshop. The Xwing was an example of a recent print.
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Oct 27, 2021 21:25
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What is up with this thread being resin printer guys trying to talk each other out of resin printers anyway? Also I really do not understand what's going on in the Brio version without knowing which gears turn together, that's some wild engineering poll plane variant fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Oct 27, 2021 |
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Oct 27, 2021 21:30
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Guess what I’ve been doing today… I hate calibrating these things. It’s an old Flashforge Creator Pro clone I’ve had since 2014 or so. edit:Running out in a couple hours to buy a resin printer because there’s a deal running locally.
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Oct 27, 2021 21:41
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The extra gears (red arrows) exist to spread the load across three+ gear teeth rather than one Although the plastic output gear is still a single point of failure Some danish company sells these things for $30 each, gotta justify it somehow(?) Even the Chinese knockoffs are $20 
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Oct 27, 2021 21:44
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blugu64 posted:Guess what I’ve been doing today… I never considered benchy as a method to help calibrate, but the thing you print as a result of all your final calibrations. single layer level squares all over the bed, and calibration cubes have done much more for fixing my issues and dialing in my printer then benchy ever has.
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Oct 27, 2021 21:54
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Where are you getting $70? A cursory Google search for 28mm X-wings is giving me sets that include (1) or (2) X-wings and Tie-Fighter combinations for less than $40 (already painted, with rule books/etc. like it's a starter set for playing, individual miniatures are less). Those are not 28mm scale minis, those are 1/200 scale minis for an entirely different game. There are no 28mm scale x-wings available in plastic, but a much smaller snow speeder is ~$40 retail so a X-Wing would be nearly twice that if they were produced. I get the impression that you have no idea how much plastic minis actually cost. I don't even know what you're trying to argue about anymore, other than just trying to be right on the internet, which is a waste of time. Is printing a miniature army cheaper than retail plastic minis? YES they are that is easy to prove, even when factoring in PPE and cleaning supplies and every other nickle and dime. and that costs goes way down when you print a second army. Is printing miniatures instead of buying them a more efficient use of your time? That depends on the value of your time, for me no it is not, for somebody with lots of free time it might be. Are there other benefits to printing miniatures and reasons to print them other than saving money? Yes lots of them, printing things that are unavailable (like that X-Wing), customizing minis, and creating your own minis are just a few things off the top of my head.
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Oct 27, 2021 22:07
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Any suggested models? I’ve been using benchy to calibrate for a while now.
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Oct 27, 2021 22:13
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3d printing in resin really is at a point where "time spent" just isn't an effective argument against it anymore. As others pointed out, the time spent cleaning and post-processing a resin print is equivalent to (or even significantly lesser than) prepping and gluing a similar type of model made of hard plastic or whatnot. With wash and cure stations, the process is practically automated at this point. Even the time spent kitbashing models in a program like 3d Builder is comparable to the time spent scraping off mold lines, sanding, gluing, filling with putty, etc., but with far less mess Treat your resin with care, as much as you would treat any dangerous household chemicals like bleach or acetone, and it's a very safe process. Just make sure it's in an area where pets and kids can't get to it, and keep it away from food preparation/storage areas, and you're good to go. Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Oct 27, 2021 |
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Oct 27, 2021 22:16
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Bucnasti posted:I don't even know what you're trying to argue about anymore, other than just trying to be right on the internet, which is a waste of time. I think it's this.
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Oct 27, 2021 22:16
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blugu64 posted:Any suggested models? I’ve been using benchy to calibrate for a while now. Aside from esteps which is just nice to check, I went to teaching tech and generated the first level gcode file. It's 5 squares right over my adjustment knobs( and center) which print in 10 min or so You can do the same with any stl you like, but I'm bypassing a lot of my start code like purge lines and leveling. After I set my level and rough offset, I just start printing these back to back. Problems with all of them, I change my offset, or I adjust the side/ corner that is off Then I use the calibration plugin for cura to make a calibration cube to just verify a bunch of settings, it's 25 min or so. Aside from it's main purpose of giving you an exact 20mm print to measure, you can check a number of other things like: Bed adhesion(bed temp settings) Layer adhesion (hotend temp) Overall size (possible extrusion ratio) Lines or zits (nozzle issues, or issues in your physical hardware causing a skip or bad spot) In the this case you can also print them in different spots on the bed to find your problem area, as usually the center is spot on, but a corner might be off I like to check that my corners are sharp and not stringing in the letter, which is a way to see if your speed and retraction settings are good Also the side smoothness can show you the difference quickly in coasting vs ironing vs wall inset, etc. Yes, there are specific tests for retraction, overhang, etc but I will submit that if you dial in leveling and z offset, and can make a drat good vibe in 24 min, then your benchy will look really good in1.5 hours or however long it takes. Benchy is supposed to highlight and find your printer weakness areas, but it's not always obvious on what the fix is, and you don't want to be the guy posting a couple pictures of benchy asking'what settings do i change'?
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Oct 27, 2021 22:30
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Appreciate the time, unfortunately being an old clone means it won’t accept gcode straight, and every cura plugin/profile I’ve tried for it seems to have issues with this printer. (PowerSpec 3D Pro) The discontinued Makerbot Desktop works decently with it as does Repetier. I forget exactly but I think it’s still running sailfish. Generally speaking, a few hours of benchy back to back and I can get things dialed in good enough for what I’m doing. Just looking at what it printed tells me I think I need to look at speed/cooling. I’ll check to see if there’s any models that might cut down the time a bit (or just scale benchy down)
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Oct 27, 2021 23:09
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A quick google search shows that the printer has its own slicer software, but you are still sending gcode to the printer. I see mention of a 'Print from SD card' option ... do you not have that ? Looks like with more googling you are using gcode, but its converted to x3g. Cura has a plugin for that, and that level print can be found as an stl all over.
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Oct 27, 2021 23:40
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I saw a video on YouTube the other day of something a guy printed in his resin printer, where shows himself handling the part straight out of the vat with no gloves on, and showed the part sitting in his bathroom sink for support material removal (pre-cure IIRC), so I’m guessing he probably washes the parts in there too. Several comments along the lines of “wow this is awesome, I think I might get a 3D printer now”, so I suspect there’s going to be plenty of people seeing poo poo like this and getting into the hobby with no idea of what they’re dealing with, toxicity-wise. 🤦🏻♂️
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Oct 28, 2021 00:11
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Here4DaGangBang posted:I saw a video on YouTube the other day of something a guy printed in his resin printer, where shows himself handling the part straight out of the vat with no gloves on, and showed the part sitting in his bathroom sink for support material removal (pre-cure IIRC), so I’m guessing he probably washes the parts in there too. Yeah, there are always going to be idiots in any hobby who don't follow even basic safety rules. I saw a video a while back of a lady who got an Elegoo Saturn for review, and proceeded to set it up on the floor of her apartment, complete with dog sniffing around, with only the cardboard from the box as protection from resin spills. And another video had a guy who got a resin printer and wanted to review it...so he set it up on his kitchen counter and started printing 
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Oct 28, 2021 00:23
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Here4DaGangBang posted:I saw a video on YouTube the other day of something a guy printed in his resin printer, where shows himself handling the part straight out of the vat with no gloves on, and showed the part sitting in his bathroom sink for support material removal (pre-cure IIRC), so I’m guessing he probably washes the parts in there too. Check your YouTube history and share this video.
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Oct 28, 2021 00:23
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Hadlock posted:Result for "brio toy train gears". I think the one I have is Chinese and just has a more direct drive engine output shaft -> main gear -> pair of bevel gears, one per wheel. Hah, I recognize that exact motor. I have like a dozen of them that I got at a surplus store over twenty years ago; apparently they are originally from compact film point-and-shoot cameras. Neat to see that they got repurposed into toy trains. Knowing how big the motor is, those gears are probably too small to reasonably print with an FDM. Maybe right on the edge but idk. Resin would do them just fine. I think the proper solution here is just open it up and take out the last gear until nephew is old enough to quit breaking his toys.
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Oct 28, 2021 00:31
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I've seen models of very small gears, and in theory, you can print as small as your nozzle is. .4 is nothing too sneeze at and i can easily print nice oncentric circles with a .2 or smaller gap between them. Now, PLA might not hold up that small PETG might string out requiring some cleanup on the teeth. PLA+ maybe ? I have not gone too far down the rabbit hole, but a quick search found some mode train gears : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4321268 10mm gear, 1 mm teeth. In fact, the model pictures have a couple assembly pictures and the transmission gears look very similar to the above train, but not exact. and here : https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-gear-for-model-train-locomotive-bachmann-climax-g-scale-171753 This is something i would tackle in 3d, playing with the tooth angle, etc to see if i can make it strong edit: actually searching "brio toy train gears 3d model" seems to be a lot of printable stuff ready to go
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Oct 28, 2021 00:39
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They are also the same motors in HO scale Tyco slot cars. blugu64 posted:Guess what I’ve been doing today… Roundboy posted:I never considered benchy as a method to help calibrate, but the thing you print as a result of all your final calibrations. single layer level squares all over the bed, and calibration cubes have done much more for fixing my issues and dialing in my printer then benchy ever has. When you're chasing "a specific problem" benchys get less useful. But because they cover almost every aspect that a printer can do, they give you a sample of everything. But frequently, people will post "some random test print" that's not working, but its for say... a temp tower. But it won't tell you much about other things going on. Or.. a bed leveling print. If someone is having a time printing things... my first request is to get a benchy printed. It's a benchmark.
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Oct 28, 2021 00:41
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Nerobro posted:They are also the same motors in HO scale Tyco slot cars. I'll obviously defer to someone with more experience, but 85% of the time its bed level / offset and its easier to tell that in 10 min vs a benchy. But we are talking about people not doing the basic troubleshooting and a benchy can hide some of those issues in the print. But I would love to have a single benchy print and have any issues diagnosed by someone who knows better for sure
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Oct 28, 2021 00:44
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Resin printing fuckup of the day: forgot to put the flex plate back on the magnet before starting a 10 hour print. printed perfectly, then smoothly peeled off the magnet with no damage
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Oct 28, 2021 01:01
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Roundboy posted:A quick google search shows that the printer has its own slicer software, but you are still sending gcode to the printer. I see mention of a 'Print from SD card' option ... do you not have that ? Exactly. Those exported files have always been an issue. Eventually I’m going to replace it with an ender like nerobro said, in all likelihood. Print from SD is pretty much all I’ve ever done. For now I just need to tweak the settings a bit to get me good enough. Apologies, I was mostly just complaining about calibration originally.
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Oct 28, 2021 02:15
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Pretty sure that if your use case is generating high-detail miniature prints that you're going to be spending a lot more in time/money/labor than just buying said miniatures from whoever originally created them. Man, there's just no way. A build plate full of high-quality 28mm miniatures is going to cost you maybe $0.60 in resin, and that's if you're not using the cheapest resin you can find. That's basically it for consumables. You're not going to "use up" any meaningful amount of IPA, and you might burn one pair of nitrile gloves in the process, so add some single-digit extra cents. It'll take you 5-10 minutes of actual work to clean, cure, and prep them, assuming you're doing so in a safe way using PPE. If you're someone who wants a lot of miniatures or custom miniatures for whatever reason, you can pay for the entire cost of a resin printer in like a week. A big use case seems to be people who play RPGs and want custom miniatures for each session. You'd spend hundreds of dollars per month doing that for weekly sessions versus maybe ten bucks and a couple of hours of time with a resin printer. None of this is meant to be a comment on resin printer safety or whether they're "good" for general users, but in terms of time/cost it's not even close. Keep in mind that a cheap resin printer, several bottles of resin, and plenty of gloves/IPA will cost you less than a full army of miniatures from certain companies. If your goal is to essentially pirate miniatures then yeah, a resin printer will do that while being cheap as gently caress in both labor and actual cost. edit- it actually sucks a lot that resin prints aren't easy to recommend without caveats because this is arguably the one hobby where 3d printing is legitimately revolutionary Ambrose Burnside posted:How do you keep your butyl gloves in good shape? I tried that but they become tacky and stay tacky forever no matter how much I clean them with alcohol, it makes handling stuff with any delicacy impossible so I've sidelined them. If contamination of resin and wash wasn't an issue I'd hit em with talcum powder or something, but alas Butyl gloves always get tacky and there's not much you can do about it, unfortunately. Like I said, I only use mine when there's very little chance of contacting resin directly so they're rarely contaminated. The few times I did get resin on them I just left them to cure for a bit and then cleaned it off. That said, I already had the gloves so it wasn't a big deal. I don't think the price of butyl would justify it normally, because I definitely can't use them for delicate work like pulling supports or basically anything where I'm actually handling the prints. Paradoxish fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Oct 28, 2021 |
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Oct 28, 2021 02:27
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Check your YouTube history and share this video. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PqnuOhwIs4o 5:28 As you’ll see, he’s wearing one glove when removing supports, so I guess he’ll just get the resin sensitivity in one hand. Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Oct 28, 2021 |
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Oct 28, 2021 02:44
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Man, I'd at least TRY to model and print some of those gears, but this really sounds like a kid that doesn't need or appreciate a motorized car toy as opposed to just something with wheels that spin
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Oct 28, 2021 02:58
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Paradoxish posted:If you're someone who wants a lot of miniatures or custom miniatures for whatever reason, you can pay for the entire cost of a resin printer in like a week. Hell, I don’t even sell any 3D prints and my resin printer has still probably made me $2000 beyond its cost. I just sell off plastic/metal models I bought from from before I got my printer and replace them with a (often cooler) 3D printed version for next to nothing. Pretty neat to be able to sell an army for $1000 and print a replacement for like $80.
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Oct 28, 2021 03:31
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Paradoxish posted:Man, there's just no way. A build plate full of high-quality 28mm miniatures is going to cost you maybe $0.60 in resin, and that's if you're not using the cheapest resin you can find. That's basically it for consumables. You're not going to "use up" any meaningful amount of IPA, and you might burn one pair of nitrile gloves in the process, so add some single-digit extra cents. It'll take you 5-10 minutes of actual work to clean, cure, and prep them, assuming you're doing so in a safe way using PPE. If you're someone who wants a lot of miniatures or custom miniatures for whatever reason, you can pay for the entire cost of a resin printer in like a week. Also the argument seems to be "printing minis takes way too much time when you could just buy a comparable mini or model and save loads of time" without acknowledging that assembling plastic/metal/cast resin models is often fiddly as gently caress. There have been times I've been sorely tempted to throw something in the trash because I thought the plastic cement had long enough to dry, but whoops it hadn't and now the mini's arm or whatever is coming off with strands that look like some Cronenbergian body horror rendered in gray plastic. Or how about having to fix something because you got it 99.9% assembled only to realize you forgot a bit and now have to try and rip the thing apart without destroying it. Even when things go smoothly, there's still the time it takes to clip items off a sprue, remove mold lines, or wait for glue/putty/etc. to set and dry. And sometimes you can't just leave it to go do something else, because you actually have to hold it in place until it's fully set (and hope you didn't get superglue on your fingers, or plastic cement on the part you're holding). Unless you're buying models for a game that are already preassembled, by and large the time cost for prepping and assembling a plastic/metal/cast resin kit can arguably be longer than cleaning a printed resin mini or model, removing supports, and curing it.
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Oct 28, 2021 03:38
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Javid posted:Man, I'd at least TRY to model and print some of those gears, but this really sounds like a kid that doesn't need or appreciate a motorized car toy as opposed to just something with wheels that spin Teach the child to model and print. When he sees the calibration and leveling work needed for gear/tooth precision I'm sure he would treat his toys much better. If you liked my TED talk, please visit my patreon page
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Oct 28, 2021 04:02
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Javid posted:Man, I'd at least TRY to model and print some of those gears, but this really sounds like a kid that doesn't need or appreciate a motorized car toy as opposed to just something with wheels that spin You're welcome to come over to my house and try and reason with my 3 year old nephew It's hard to be the cool uncle without battery powered train stuff. I baby sit him for 3 hours once a week and for both our sanity he just plays with trainer stuff the entire time
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Oct 28, 2021 05:17
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I did a bunch of nylon gears for a project. With a .4mm nozzle on a Markforged printing their white nylon, 3mm PD was the smallest I could get to reliably work. A .25mm nozzle on a different machine was able to get down to 1mm PD teeth (with similar enough print settings) but the nozzle loved to clog. A good engineering resin would probably work decently well, but honestly if your nephew goes through them that quickly and you want to make your own, you might get a much better result with a mold from a new gear and some good "nylon-like" 2 part resin. The 2-part resins, once cured, tend to be less toxic as well so you wouldn't have to worry as much about the kid accidentally ingesting a tooth of gear or something. Because you know that will happen eventually with a 3 year old. KHK gears has STEP files of most of their gears with actual tooth profiles. They aren't ready to print but they have enough teeth for test fitting and someone with cad skills can turn them into more functional versions. Wanderless fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Oct 28, 2021 |
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Oct 28, 2021 06:17
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Hadlock posted:You're welcome to come over to my house and try and reason with my 3 year old nephew Could you print a replacement base which doesn’t have the motors and gears and is just plain axles so he can push to his heart’s content?
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Oct 28, 2021 06:33
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poll plane variant posted:What is up with this thread being resin printer guys trying to talk each other out of resin printers anyway? Welcome to Something Awful. Toebone posted:Resin printing fuckup of the day: forgot to put the flex plate back on the magnet before starting a 10 hour print. You are very lucky. I've completely destroyed the magnetic sheet doing that. 
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Oct 28, 2021 14:55
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Hey, at least it isn't like when I didn't know there's a protector on new FEP sheets and printed a big resin anus
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Oct 28, 2021 17:17
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Y’all prefer Lychee or Chitubox?
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Oct 28, 2021 17:20
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blugu64 posted:Y’all prefer Lychee or Chitubox? Lychee by a god drat mile
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Oct 28, 2021 17:36
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Turned these out on my Prusa Mini. Mandalorian rifle files came from this guy: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-mandalorian-rifle-100455 I scaled down the Mandalorian rifle to 85%. It was for an 8 year old, and a 25mm rod would be hard to source for me in the US at a cheap off-the-shelf price. I ended up measuring the outer diameter of a 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe and doing some rough math to estimate the required resize. I printed a few of the barrel bands as test pieces at 84%, 85%, and 86% to test the fit. 85% fit the pipe perfectly, and at that scale the smaller 8mm rod hole sized down to 0.26 inches diameter. Slightly bigger than a 1/4in diameter dowel, but didn't feel loose-loose since the upper barrel fit just right. Both the pipe and the dowel can be had for under $5 total at a hardware store. The mando rifle print file already had great cuts for smaller printers, with support dowels and such modeled in. I printed in PLA on a Prusa Mini at 0.15. They all joined together really well. Jawa blaster files were from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2139042 For the Jawa rifle, I ended up needing to scale it down a bit and still do another cut in the slicer for the long barrel piece. I hid the join underneath the top receiver and the seam can't be seen. Seam on the stock join can be seen because baby brother dropped it and necessitated a hasty repair. I did end up running the LEDs that the guy suggested, and it worked great. My boy was thrilled with it. It was my first time soldering wires and mapping out simple electronics, and I had a lot of fun doing it despite my chintzy cheap Amazon soldering iron not working nearly as well as the slick ones in the Youtube tutorials. To finish them both up, I filled the seams with sandable plastic "wood putty", and sanded all the major surfaces starting at 120 grit and going all the way up to 2000 grit. I primed both with a couple coats of Plastidip from a rattlecan to further smooth out the lines. Painting was done 90% with spray cans, mostly for layering the metallic and wood effects. I finished it by hand with acrylic paints for about 20 minutes total of painting (and hours later realized that the front handguard should have also been done in wood effect) 3D printing is really fun, you guys.
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Oct 28, 2021 18:02
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