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Thanks for the recs! I'll ask in the AI stupid questions thread as well, but I'm guessing they'll say the same thing y'all did.
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Oct 22, 2021 04:08
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One final thing, there are drainage tubes that run inside your car that can clog or leak, not just from the seal. Google for ideas on checking and fixing that.
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Oct 22, 2021 16:13
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Ok Comboomer posted:I’m in the market for a Dremel. Is there a recommendation for best bang/buck kit and model number to buy? For handheld, corded rotary tools I really like the Proxxon offerings. They're much higher quality than the current dremels, particularly in the lifespan of the bearings. I haven't used a cordless rotary tool since the first model Dremel came out with (it was terrible, but battery power has come a long way since) but I imagine there are decent 12v offerings in the various manufacturer lines if you are interested in starting a collection. Might ask in the tool thread as well. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3384038 (e) Looks like Proxxon also has a cordless offering. No personal experience with it but I expect they would be at least on par with the other brands. I bet it is a direct version of their 12v corded line which is also very good. Wanderless fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Oct 22, 2021 |
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Oct 22, 2021 17:42
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So I have an annoying kitchen sink problem that's recently become more annoying. Here's my kitchen sink: Sometimes, the left sink (with the garbage disposal) gets somewhat clogged. To fix it, I just need to run the garbage disposal, but I have to make sure that the stopper is on the right sink's drain and that I'm pushing down on it, otherwise the water will just spurt right out of it. Also, when I run the dishwasher, sometimes that causes the left sink to fill up, probably because it's partially clogged. The recent development that made this more annoying was that this happened last night when I ran the dishwasher, and I fixed it again, but then when I opened the dishwasher, I noticed standing water at the bottom. I went through the usual troubleshooting steps (check drain hose, disassemble the bottom part of the dishwasher to see if something is clogging the drain, baking soda and vinegar) but as far as I can tell, it's just that the left sink filled up quickly enough so that there was still water remaining when the cycle finished. So here's the layout of the kitchen sink and the dishwasher, what's under the sink, and for completeness, the bottom of the dishwasher:    The copper line is the hot water intake, and the drain hose starts at the black thing on the right side, and goes up and over the left wall to the garbage disposal. So my question is: is it easy to fix the underlying problem? I.e. does it require re-doing the pipework under the sink? I wonder if it's just a matter of taking apart the existing pipes and just cleaning out the inside? (I've never done any real plumbing before.) Also, we're planning to get a new dishwasher, since the existing one is pretty old, but am I right in guessing that this won't really fix the problem? It seems like the problem is with the pipework under the sink, and not necessarily with the dishwasher drain hose per se... Tips and suggestions appreciated!
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Oct 23, 2021 22:45
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Hot take: slap a level or eyeball that drain from your right sink to the left. Is it sloped down right-to-left? It should be sloped towards the drain. It's most likely just gunk built up. Everything under your sink is hand tight. Turn off the water to your sink and disconnect it unto a bucket. Clean it all out. Stuff a rag into the wall to prevent sewer gas from coming into the house. Put it back together. Make sure any little gaskets are seated, if they crumble or break they are dozens of pennies at the hardware store. Monday call a plumber because nothing went back together right and your wife is mad at you for breaking the bathroom sink. Wait what were we talking about?
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Oct 24, 2021 03:43
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H110Hawk posted:Hot take: slap a level or eyeball that drain from your right sink to the left. Is it sloped down right-to-left? It should be sloped towards the drain. I feel seen.
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Oct 24, 2021 13:22
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That T fitting in the middle looks very wrong to me - It looks like one that's supposed to be mounted vertically instead, and is probably not helping your issues at the very least. I'd suggest looking up the manual for the disposal and finding what plumbing arrangements they suggest. This one is too big, but is closer to the shape you want then a straight tee. There are some other options here, but you're going to need to poke around in the hardware store to figure out what will fit. You don't want water to have the option of shooting straight across the tee, it needs to be angled down.
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Oct 24, 2021 15:49
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Slugworth posted:Ceilings, at least in places with ceiling lights, are subject to the worst effects of lighting. The shallow angle that they are getting lit at tends to show every single little defect, the same way it's suggested to hold a light against a wall when you're drywalling or painting to check for issues. that makes sense, thank you here's a question, winter is on it's way and I would like a way to insulate the area around the patio door a bit. Is there some sort of adhesive insulation that I could place on the metal transition, perhaps just on the part directly underneath the door? or maybe attached to the bottom of the door?
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Oct 24, 2021 20:29
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oops forgot attachment sorry
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Oct 24, 2021 20:31
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My car's (2003 Honda Civic) roof is leaking, and water's getting into the cabin via the rear view mirror mount. What should I do about this? I had this same issue with my 2000 Civic (not quite the same gen as yours, but close). Problem was lots of rot in the windshield sealant. Mixture of age, road salt, and a decade+ worth of weather exposure. Had to have the window removed by an expert, new layer of fiberglass added from corner to corner, and a new windshield glass. On a vehicle that old you might want to go ahead and do that, as a new windshield glass is a lot more clear than one that's pushing 21 years. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:35 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Oct 24, 2021 21:37
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actionjackson posted:oops forgot attachment sorry Look up "door sweep". It's exactly what you need. Don't get the kind with brushes, get the kind that's a continuous strip.
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Oct 24, 2021 22:46
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Wanderless posted:For handheld, corded rotary tools I really like the Proxxon offerings. They're much higher quality than the current dremels, particularly in the lifespan of the bearings. I haven't used a cordless rotary tool since the first model Dremel came out with (it was terrible, but battery power has come a long way since) but I imagine there are decent 12v offerings in the various manufacturer lines if you are interested in starting a collection. thanks I’ll check out Proxxon + ask in the tool thread
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Oct 25, 2021 01:10
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Look up "door sweep". It's exactly what you need. Don't get the kind with brushes, get the kind that's a continuous strip. thanks!
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Oct 25, 2021 01:50
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H110Hawk posted:Hot take: slap a level or eyeball that drain from your right sink to the left. Is it sloped down right-to-left? It should be sloped towards the drain. Got a level, and AFAICT it's sloping down left-to-right. So that's one problem. quote:It's most likely just gunk built up. Everything under your sink is hand tight. Turn off the water to your sink and disconnect it unto a bucket. Clean it all out. Stuff a rag into the wall to prevent sewer gas from coming into the house. Put it back together. Make sure any little gaskets are seated, if they crumble or break they are dozens of pennies at the hardware store. I disconnected everything, and surprisingly all the pipes were clean! So it must be something else. However, I did notice that there was a lip in the T-junction (marked in red):  This surprised me, and indeed... devicenull posted:That T fitting in the middle looks very wrong to me - It looks like one that's supposed to be mounted vertically instead, and is probably not helping your issues at the very least. According to the manual, it looks like it originally came with a discharge tube that points down 4", which this fitting is definitely not doing. So I guess it's time for me to re-do this plumbing? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mR3_Wzs74Q4 looks like a reasonable option, which is to have P traps for both sinks and join them with a Y fitting, although it might also suffice to move everything down and have the T-junction be vertical, like in this StackExchange answer. But if there are other ways I'd love to know about them too. quote:Monday call a plumber because nothing went back together right and your wife is mad at you for breaking the bathroom sink. Wait what were we talking about? Fortunately, everything fit back together for me. 😅 floWenoL fucked around with this message at 08:50 on Oct 25, 2021 |
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Oct 25, 2021 08:40
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My family has land in upstate NY, bordering a reclaimed dump. This summer my father claimed he saw a puddle of leachate forming by the end of the dump, on our land. His solution was to dig a small trench, letting the leachate drain... directly onto the rest of the property. I was just able to take a look at it this weekend. The small trench is now bright orange, with bright orange sediment along the entire trench (10 feet). There is a sheen of oil on the water surface, which is quite fast flowing. There is no obvious source for the water but it seems to be coming up FAST directly from the ground. Im about to call the DEP to see how hosed this is, but are there any NY state water labs or testing kits you guys would suggest?
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Oct 25, 2021 13:38
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I'm an environmental remediation contractor in New Jersey - Alpha Analytics and TestAmerica both have labs in Albany; I've used both companies extensively and they do good work. Do you have any wells on the property? They should be tested, especially if they're used for drinking water.
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Oct 25, 2021 14:27
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Gaj posted:My family has land in upstate NY, bordering a reclaimed dump. This summer my father claimed he saw a puddle of leachate forming by the end of the dump, on our land. His solution was to dig a small trench, letting the leachate drain... directly onto the rest of the property. I was just able to take a look at it this weekend. The entire road up and down the mountain uses wells. There is yearly DEP water testing via their own/state park wells, but I dont know how their testing schedule has been what with covid. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076DRBCBX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is what Im having sent over right now until I can find ways to get tests from both labs you mentioned.
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Oct 25, 2021 15:09
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Gaj posted:The entire road up and down the mountain uses wells. There is yearly DEP water testing via their own/state park wells, but I dont know how their testing schedule has been what with covid. That covers most of the analyses you'd do for landfill leachate, so it'll at least give you a sense of what you're dealing with. Definitely get the NYDEC involved, a leaky landfill is going to need a pretty extensive investigation.
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Oct 25, 2021 15:59
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 Big ol branch fell on my electrical feed-in line (which is two insulated wires wrapped around a bare/structural steel cable). It's resting partly on the roof too. Is it safe to poke at it with a fiberglass broomstick? I feel like i could probably dislodge it if so, and clean up once it's no longer in contact with the wires. e: nevermind, it's the utility's jurisdiction so they're sending someone alnilam fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Oct 25, 2021 |
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Oct 25, 2021 22:56
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alnilam posted:
Just to be really clear for future people reading this thread - The answer is no. Call your utility and basically press 1 to report a hazard. Tell them something fell on your lines and make it their problem. You might get someone same-day, though if you're able to send them a picture they can make a better judgement call. Same thing with gas hazards. If your lines had fallen or were arcin-and-sparkin call 911 or local equivalent. floWenoL posted:Fortunately, everything fit back together for me. 😅  What have you done!melon cat posted:... and you're re-evaluating your life decisions while on your way to the hardware store for 3rd trip because you promised yourself that "this would only need one trip to the store TOPS." Why I have everything I need in the garage! No need to check first I'll just get it when I need it!
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Oct 25, 2021 23:41
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I like buying only what I'm certain I need in the moment and making like three trips to the store for each project as I gradually understand the full scope of what's required. Gives me more excuses to swing by the power tools and stare.
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Oct 26, 2021 06:01
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OK so I installed a faucet a while ago: (Diameter is about 1 1/4" at the top) I want to remove the aerator, mostly out of stubbornness at this point. That already seems hard enough since the sides are curved, but I want to do so without scratching the metal, which makes it even harder since that usually involves putting on some tape, which makes it even harder to get a grip. How can I possibly unscrew this aerator? I tried channel locks and tweezers, but both of them couldn't really get a grip. Is there some tool that could get a grip on this?
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Oct 26, 2021 08:15
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I'd try wrapping it in a layer or two of those rubber grippy things people use to help open jars and then hit it with the channel locks, probably. The grippy things should both protect the faucet from the pliers and help the pliers get a grip.
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Oct 26, 2021 09:02
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Khizan posted:I'd try wrapping it in a layer or two of those rubber grippy things people use to help open jars and then hit it with the channel locks, probably. The grippy things should both protect the faucet from the pliers and help the pliers get a grip. You mean something like this? Cool, didn't know about those, I'll give it a try!
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Oct 26, 2021 09:21
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floWenoL posted:You mean something like this? Cool, didn't know about those, I'll give it a try! I'm going to go ahead and suggest a strap wrench, even though it might not work on that shape: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Hand-Tools-Wrenches-Strap-Wrenches/N-5yc1vZc6f0 They're not something you use all the time, but they're super useful when you need them and they're cheap enough that it doesn't hurt to get one just to have around. Might be tough to use on that shape, though... maybe a small one would do the trick? Grippy jar openers SHOULD help with that, but chances are it was either torqued on too tight or there's calcified gunk left behind by water that's holding it on. Channel locks would help of course, but something like a strap wrench should grab a lot more surface area to get a good grip. There's also a substance called Dycem which is super loving tacky. You can get it on Amazon here in various formats, including a 8"x36" roll that you just cut pieces off in any shape you want. It doesn't work well when wet, but when dry it'll grip like crazy.
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Oct 26, 2021 12:35
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May not work and might only use it once? Embrace your inner Sith: https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-strap-wrench-set-2-pc-69373.html
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Oct 26, 2021 12:54
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I've been getting some wet carpet in the finished basement of my house that we just purchased in the summer. It was near the wall, but also in a spot about 3 feet from the wall. I had one company come out and they suggested the exterior footer drains had failed and weren't doing their job, but they didn't really determine if the water was coming through the walls or floor. I did some investigation with a hammer.  fingat for scale.  I have another two companies coming to look at it but everybody is backed up for a couple weeks and up to a month. Anything I can do in the meantime? I don't have the time or skill to really fix this properly, just want to know if there's anything I can do at this point short of sticking bubble gum in the hole.  Also what's the proper fix? Dig from the outside and redo the drains around the perimeter of the house or patch this hole? The yard always has a shitload of standing water in it after a rain so I'm not sure if there's a larger issue with drainage around the house. It's a pretty flat area and the gutters all drain underground a few feet out from the house. We already had those blown out but it didn't really change anything.
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Oct 26, 2021 14:05
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It's not bubblegum, but you could try patching that with hydraulic cement. Comes as a powder in a little tub, mix it up with some water and smoosh it on there. It's meant to stop leaks in masonry walls.
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Oct 26, 2021 14:32
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Khizan posted:I'd try wrapping it in a layer or two of those rubber grippy things people use to help open jars and then hit it with the channel locks, probably. The grippy things should both protect the faucet from the pliers and help the pliers get a grip. Looking more at those rubber grippy things, I was reminded of shelf liners. In particular, this one I had was pretty grippy, and wouldn't you know, I just grabbed one and was able to unscrew the thing by hand! DaveSauce posted:I'm going to go ahead and suggest a strap wrench, ... The Dave posted:May not work and might only use it once? Embrace your inner Sith: https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-strap-wrench-set-2-pc-69373.html These are all good suggestions in case I run into something tougher. Thanks guys!
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Oct 27, 2021 08:52
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I stupidly cracked one of our doors and it seems to be custom made as it is non-standard thickness - 1 9/16" approximately. I've been looking for ways to fix this, easiest seems wrap around security plates - which look great, but they come in standard sizes of 1 3/8" and 1 3/4". I've considered chiseling out to fit the 1 3/8" but removing almost a quarter inch of material from the door to fit the plate seems like the wrong answer. One kit I found is two plates with bolts that drive through the front and back and sandwich together which could work, but only comes in white (the hardware is bronze). Just trying to find a fix that makes it look better and reinforces the split. It is also in a place where I've caught my hand on it a few times when swinging the door. 
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Oct 28, 2021 09:35
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Got clamps? I would glob a bunch of wood glue down into the crack, wipe off excess, clamp it closed (use something to prevent marring the wood), wipe off any further excess, and let it cure for 24hrs+ before releasing the clamps. Harbor freight sells cheap clamps. Make sure you can get the crack closed before you go squirting wood glue around. You might need to sand it a little bit once you release but wood glue is where I would start. I don't know if they make any that has a thin/needle like applicator to really get in there.
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Oct 28, 2021 18:00
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wood glue, putty knife, clamps gently scrape or sand the leaked glue after
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Oct 28, 2021 18:26
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The Dave posted:May not work and might only use it once? Embrace your inner Sith: https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-strap-wrench-set-2-pc-69373.html For what it's worth these are actually pretty damned decent. The only problem is that the strap itself is cheap rubber so over time it gets harder and slicker, but that's over a period of years.
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Oct 28, 2021 19:34
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That's the wrong outlet tee. Outlet tees have baffles in them to direct drainage. You need a center outlet tee.
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Oct 28, 2021 22:50
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Suburban Dad posted:I have another two companies coming to look at it but everybody is backed up for a couple weeks and up to a month. Anything I can do in the meantime? I don't have the time or skill to really fix this properly, just want to know if there's anything I can do at this point short of sticking bubble gum in the hole. Having seen basements with similar issues- patching that with hydraulic cement wouldn't be very helpful. It would end up re-cracking at the slightest movement of your foundation. You have a soil and drainage problem, not a foundation problem. I have similar issues with standing water in the yard and had to get a sump pump put in. Not even kidding after I broke the concrete padding in my basement barely a few inches down water came bubbling up immediately. Your house might be the same. A proper fix is, at the very least, a high quality urethane caulk inserted into that crack with maybe some delta waterproofing membrane, and even that requires proper placement down the wall, and over your concrete footing. But even that on its own won't be enough because that build up of water and heavy soil outside your foundation still has to go somewhere. And that somewhere will be further down the wall, and maybe UP into your basement floor (water finds the lowest path of resistance). This is where a sump pump will come in. It would create a new low point where water would drain into, and pump that out and away from your foundation. An interior drainage system leading TO a sump pump would be ideal. Yes it will be expensive. Exterior drainage systems are fine but even more expensive since they require digging down to the foundation footing (~8 feet) and pulling out landscaping and most waterproofing issues can be solved using an internal drainage + pump system. I know that this sounds like using a bazooka to kill a squirrel but unless you do a real, well-executed fix it'll be like those cartoons where the character plugs one leak and another leak appears and another. Cutting off your downspouts didn't help because, like my house, your grading sucks. That water needs to be pumped out and away from your foundation. This is also why finished basements suck unless the they were properly waterproofed before drywall and carpeting goes in. But who are we kidding on this dumb planet melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:35 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Oct 28, 2021 23:34
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melon cat posted:
I think you mean before the excavation for the basement is backfilled. The waterproofing needs to be on the outside. Negative side waterproofing is a bandaid, at best. Xypex can work ok, but I've never seen it work well.
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Oct 29, 2021 01:24
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Xenix posted:I think you mean before the excavation for the basement is backfilled. The waterproofing needs to be on the outside. Negative side waterproofing is a bandaid, at best. Xypex can work ok, but I've never seen it work well. In an ideal world you'd have waterproofing on both exterior and interior. Because in my experience exterior waterproofing alone doesn't prevent water vapour/condensation intrusion. And unlike interior waterproofing, an exterior system can't be serviced if the installer put it in incorrectly or the exterior weepers clog. Ask me how I know.  As for Xypex- I've never used the stuff myself so I can't comment on it. I've worked with waterproof plastic vapour barrier + delta wrap with perimeter drainage for interior work. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Oct 29, 2021 |
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Oct 29, 2021 06:17
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melon cat posted:Having seen basements with similar issues- patching that with hydraulic cement wouldn't be very helpful. It would end up re-cracking at the slightest movement of your foundation. You have a soil and drainage problem, not a foundation problem.  I still threw some hydraulic cement on it, we'll see if it leaks short term (it's pouring today ). We already have a sump pump and it runs...a lot. Though I wonder if the discharge line is hosed/broken given that I've had guys come snake it out twice and it still shoots a bit of water out the overflow. They're coming again and might be putting in a new schedule 40 line to the sewer drain, will find out Monday. Even on days without rain I still hear it kick on. As for the basement interior solutions, those seem like a bad idea to me because it doesn't really address the problems outside and with the walls...Like it just let's the water inside the house and then deals with it. We had a guy come suggest one for $21k which didn't include fixing all the drywall they would be removing from the big rear end basement. The exterior grading probably could use some help as there are landscaping rocks (  not a fan of them) all around the perimeter of the house too which I understand are not great for getting water away as they just let it through the cracks rather than flow "downhill." Gutters run underground and apparently drain to somewhere out in the yard but I can't see poo poo except the little vents placed sporadically around the yard. The lines are cleared out but still I see standing water down in those vents at times after rain. Ground must get saturated and there's nowhere for it to go...?
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Oct 29, 2021 16:59
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If your sump pump is tanking (ie. running almost constantly) your discharge line might need to be extended further out. Because if it isn't discharging far enough it might be feeding the foundation perpetually with water. This could burn out your pump if it's running really often. If you had to have it snaked out twice you might be getting a lot of mud in your sump pump basin. Got a pic of the inside of your basin that you can share? And what's the discharge line setup like? And did you say that your installers were discharging the sump into the municipal sewer line? If so I'd double check to make sure that's legal/up to code as most cities no longer allow that. You just don't want to pay a guy to do that job then get a knock on the door from the city about it. You're right that an interior drainage system on its own won't solve the drainage problem- you've got the right idea. But in many cases interior waterproofing is part of the solution. In the words of basement waterproofing companies "BuT iT'S a SyStEm™!!" The most effective solution for badly affected homes is one that has good landscaping, with proper drainage, AND an interior waterproofing system of some sort. A lot of homeowners are seeing MORE water come into their homes due to infrastructure degradation and climate change, but that's a whole other discussion for a different day. Edit:  love the new thread title
melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Oct 29, 2021 |
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Oct 29, 2021 18:23
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I have a radon remediation system that is gurgling like a mother fucker because the ground is super saturated and the water is caught in the piping. This is a regular occurrence, and I’m sure the real long term solution is introducing a sump pump somewhere, but in the mean time is there any easy way to introduce some type of tap or access to manually suck out the water that would still be air tight when closed?
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Oct 30, 2021 13:41
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