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Deviant posted:Is there a recommended food dehydrator? I have the sunlu box but I use that for filament dispensing on active prints. I got the westinghouse branded version of this, which is Rosewill branded but identical to the base of the PrintDry. You can clip the plastic screen off a couple of layers of the food holding screen so that filament rolls fit. The plastic is a little brittle so I had mine crack a little on an edge when I snipped the screen part out but I just slapped on a little packing tape. There's enough room for a couple of rolls and you can throw your desiccant packs in when you run it.
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Nov 6, 2021 23:54
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Rexxed posted:I got the westinghouse branded version of this, which is Rosewill branded but identical to the base of the PrintDry. This looks exactly the same as the one I have. Always dry your filament before trying to debug the machine or the slicing. Doesn't matter if it just came out of the package, every factory in the world has moisture in the air.
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Nov 7, 2021 00:01
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insta posted:For PLA a Sunlu/eSUN box at max for several hours will be fine. Oh, I agree, but my sunlu box is often in use, i run it during prints. So I'm not averse to getting a dehydrator if it's not too pricy. That said, when I swapped filaments, the gear tension did seem a bit loose, so I wonder if i just wasn't retracting enough. I tightened it to spec plus a quarter turn, and i'm not seeing any ground up filament, so let's try this again. What are samples for if not making boats?
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Nov 7, 2021 00:01
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Every filament manufacturer passes their molten filament through a water bath, then right into the spools.
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Nov 7, 2021 00:02
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The rosewill was what i was looking at already, so I'll think on it. For now, if the second sample + idler adjustment doesn't play, I'll try my known dry and behaving roll of white. And I guess I'll stop stream of consciousnessposting in the three dee machine thread
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Nov 7, 2021 00:04
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Tyro posted:The $90/10kg deal on PLA+ from IIIDMax has honestly worked pretty well for me. Got a bunch of colors a month ago and I've used almost all of them so far. This has been my experience with the same deal from GST3D. It's touchier than Hatchbox by an amount commensurate with the discount, and the plastic just FEELS cheaper in an odd way, but it prints fine otherwise.
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Nov 7, 2021 00:10
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the supplied benchy gcode from prusa doesn't have "retract on layer change" enabled, as support helpfully informed me I should enable. god forbid the prusa supplied files have correct settings. that would be far too much to ask. let's see how THIS one turns out. Deviant fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Nov 7, 2021 |
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Nov 7, 2021 03:02
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why the gently caress would you print from a gcode!?!?!?
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Nov 7, 2021 03:08
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I have printed 15+ benchies across 5 different MINI+ with that same stock gcode with no stringing, so I don’t know how well that will solve your problem.
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Nov 7, 2021 03:13
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poll plane variant posted:why the gently caress would you print from a gcode!?!?!? Two reasons: 1) I foolishly assumed the gcode supplied with the printer by the printer manufacturer would have its poo poo together. 2) I wanted to be able to say "i used your file with your filament on your printer as it was issued to me" when i went to talk to support Bodanarko posted:I have printed 15+ benchies across 5 different MINI+ with that same stock gcode with no stringing, so I don’t know how well that will solve your problem. Well, when it doesn't, I'll be able to yell at them again.
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Nov 7, 2021 03:13
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ImplicitAssembler posted:It's a bowden on the Mini, right? It might just be as good as it gets. There's no way. You can print a benchy with effectively no stringing on any of the billion cheap bowden printers out there. It's gotta be the filament or something else.
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Nov 7, 2021 03:19
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I am burning my last bit of prusament sample on one more attempt with a settings change, and tomorrow I'll try my white roll from the animu swords if it doesn't play. I'm gonna be real angry if they sent me dodgy filament out of the box, and I'm skeptical of them sending me two bad samples in the same box. Galaxy purple looks nice, though.
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Nov 7, 2021 03:21
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i ’ve kicked the tires on an exploratory bottle of Siraya tech’s Build resin in smoky gray, can confirm it’s an excellent cheap all-round mechanical/engineering resin. it feels very much like a less intense, less ‘minmaxed’ formulation of their Tenacious resin, it’s not as tough or strong but it holds fine detail much better and is easier to print. and its cheap, too- only marginally more expensive than the elegoo abs-like equivalent but with much better material properties. i haven’t tried cutting threads in it yet but it’s the main objective they had when formulating Build so i’m gonna find an excuse to print some half-finished threads and/or pilot holes soon biggest downside so far is that it’s still a fairly challenging resin to post-process and generally get good results with, not as bad as Tenacious but i haven’t gotten a print without at least one issue so far; it clearly benefits a lot from a heated tank, that’s ST’s official recommendation wrt the best way to improve print quality while using Build, Tenacious, sculpt etc. also pretty persistent during cleaning, it shares tenacious’ problem of not dissolving in alcohol if the solution is saturated, one part needed some additional toothbrush clean-up after the Wash n Cure machine cycle, which hasn’t happened otherwise.
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Nov 7, 2021 04:24
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Deviant posted:I am burning my last bit of prusament sample on one more attempt with a settings change, and tomorrow I'll try my white roll from the animu swords if it doesn't play. I'm gonna be real angry if they sent me dodgy filament out of the box, and I'm skeptical of them sending me two bad samples in the same box. You are complaining about a filament sample that came in the box with your printer. I assume it looked like the one in this YouTube video:  It's in there to demonstrate that the machine works and let you learn how to set files up for printing. It isn't meant to be your primary source of material. As you note, it is enough to print a few tugboats and that's it. It was cut from a roll at some point and was probably sitting out in the air in the factory for at least some length of time. Some minor stringing from moisture is not actually a big concern here. Like I get that you want it to be perfect, but you're kind of doing something that happens in this thread semi-regularly, which is obsessing over very small flaws in the test prints instead of just using the machine to print poo poo as intended. It's like buying a new camera lens and taking 500 pictures of resolution charts and staring at them until you convince yourself that the images are blurry and you got a defective model. I think the tugboats look great! Use the dang machine and see if it meets your needs! I bet it will. Print with a different roll, see if it changes anything, and if it turns out that the little coil of filament that came in the box was the problem, please do not complain to the company about it. It's an unreasonable expectation. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Nov 7, 2021 |
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Nov 7, 2021 04:38
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Sagebrush posted:You are complaining about a filament sample that came in the box with your printer. I assume it looked like the one in this YouTube video: Yes, but both mine came sealed. That said, I have swapped to a roll of filament I just used to make a fancy anime sword on the MK3S with no issues, and I'm getting similar results:  I don't know how you can look at that stringing and consider it even remotely acceptable. And yes, I do want my prints to come out correctly, because I just paid several hundred dollars for this thing and this level of performance is unacceptable. Gonna try increasing retraction and reducing temperature, since apparently I have to do Prusa's job for them. The same test above with 5mm (up from the default 3.2mm) retraction and down to 195*C produces only slightly better results, with the added drawback of worse layer adhesion and flow. Prusa themselves recommend never going over 4.2mm, so I'm dialing that back down. My MK3S worked as soon as i finished building it, why can't this be the same? Deviant fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Nov 7, 2021 |
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Nov 7, 2021 04:54
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Did you dry the filament. edit: Also don't obsess over stress tests. If the things you want to print are coming out fine then don't worry about what happens when you print a tiny array of spikes.
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Nov 7, 2021 05:52
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withak posted:Did you dry the filament. I did dry the filament. This white filament lives in a drybox, and was used successfully in the MK3s all day while this troubleshooting was going on. It makes wonderful anime swords for cosplayers. I guess I'm obsessing, but I'm annoyed to have one printer that requires a lighter be taken to all its parts and one that produces dumb stuff on demand without the slightest complaint. Because with stringing like that, if I try to print two parts at once, I'm going to have a ton of fuzzies linking them together.
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Nov 7, 2021 05:57
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I've been working on my Geeetech i3 again. to see if I could get it to do better. The end result, is I've got all but 1 screw removed from both lift nuts. And I drilled out the hole in the top of the frame so the leadscrews can swing around. It's... done a lot of good for the printer. But.. given this was "peak 2012" and now i'm getting "only vaguely embarrassing prints" from it, I'm feeling pretty darned good. Tyro posted:The $90/10kg deal on PLA+ from IIIDMax has honestly worked pretty well for me. Got a bunch of colors a month ago and I've used almost all of them so far. I've have some real good luck with the 3d Max filament. I tried the 3d solutech stuff when amazon messed up their costing... it had lots of inclusions of hotter melting plastic, so... I'd get clogs and need to crank the temp to 260 for a layer or two to clear it when I staretd hearing clicking. No such thing with the IIIDMax stuff.
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Nov 7, 2021 08:00
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Sagebrush posted:It's like buying a new camera lens and taking 500 pictures of resolution charts and staring at them until you convince yourself that the images are blurry and you got a defective model. Flashback to my days working at a high-end camera shop and the handful of regulars who we'd tolerate taking test shots of the building opposite with various lenses we had on sale (which in fairness was almost a perfect lens test because it was a huge slab with vertical lines running down it) then coming back two weeks later when their Kodachrome (of course it was loving Kodachrome) slides had come back to actually buy them.
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Nov 7, 2021 15:00
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Deviant posted:My MK3S worked as soon as i finished building it, why can't this be the same? Isn’t the whole point of paying more for a Prusa that you can have *them* help fix it?
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Nov 7, 2021 17:15
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Yeah, I'm printing some actual stuff using my shiny new prusament to see how it goes, and if it doesn't improve, I'll talk to them again. i also found a loose screw in the extruder when i was cleaning out a bit of stuck filament, so we'll see.  skulls for the skull throne Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Nov 7, 2021 |
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Nov 7, 2021 17:37
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Everyone going on about StringyPrusa is neglecting that sometimes poo poo Happens. A random speck of dust got onto the filament during loading and is clogging the nozzle. No easy way to prevent it, nobody's fault really. Or, this is a nozzle near the end of the tooling lifespan and has a tiny brass burr in it straight from the factory. Or, it's absorbed some moisture since filament loving hates being dry unless it's 50% fluorine. This is addressed by drying, but it can happen at any time, just like vagina centipedes. Zero warning.
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Nov 7, 2021 17:43
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Swapped out my regular old PLA for a fresh roll of another color Stringyness went away, bed adhesion went way up
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Nov 7, 2021 17:45
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insta posted:Everyone going on about StringyPrusa is neglecting that sometimes poo poo Happens. but i want my angry cnc glue gun to work perfectly without question 100% of the time all the time and i will RAISE HELL if it so much as makes a noise i didnd't approve of prusa mini why cant you be like your big brother your big brother made Rian's dual glaive from the Dark Crystal without complaining 
Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Nov 7, 2021 |
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Nov 7, 2021 17:51
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Any ultrabase tips/tricks on bed adhesion? PLA @200/60 Tried the following: Washed with IPA (91%) Washed with dish soap. Threw down a blue tape strip and I get perfect adhesion, so I link my Z offset is good. Is there a temperature range I need to use to get things to stick?
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Nov 7, 2021 18:13
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Unless the thickness of the blue tape is the additional z offset down you need.....
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Nov 7, 2021 19:03
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blugu64 posted:Any ultrabase tips/tricks on bed adhesion? PLA @200/60 Drop your z offset by the thickness of that tape. If that fails, give the bed a bit of a scrub with some fine grit sandpaper, then clean it with IPA again. If that fails, mist it with aquanet hair spray or do a barely-there coat of glue stick. I started using the hair spray as a release agent for printing petg, but I've ended up just leaving it there for everything. It shouldn't be necessary, though.
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Nov 7, 2021 19:54
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Where would someone buy a 3d printer, retail, between Seattle and Vancouver? On this Sunday.
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Nov 7, 2021 20:38
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My CR10 + roadtrip 
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Nov 7, 2021 20:49
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Nerobro posted:Where would someone buy a 3d printer, retail, between Seattle and Vancouver? On this Sunday. Is there a Micro Center nearby?
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Nov 7, 2021 21:01
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Jadius posted:Is there a Micro Center nearby? No. That was the first place I checked. When i'm in illinois.. it's easy. But.. being in washington.... And with Fry's being past tense.
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Nov 7, 2021 21:06
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 I guess it makes okay prints. I guess. I'm still concerned about the stringing, though!
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Nov 7, 2021 21:54
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Man words cannot express how much nicer the ender 3v2 is over the old makerbot knockoff I had. It’s so much quieter, less vibration, and easier to get dialed in it’s crazy.
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Nov 8, 2021 20:41
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Ugh, I cannot loving win with this Mini.  I sorted out the stringing by not doing anything and just printing real stuff, and those skulls went beautifully. Now I'm seeing this weird marring on new prints that are fairly nondescript shapes, circles It almost looks like it's been scraped. Is this something I can control? I'm about to swap out my nozzle just in case I got a bad factory one, but that seems silly.
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Nov 8, 2021 20:58
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Anyone have recommendations for a transparent colorless PLA? Working on a project where I'll need to light up small parts from behind with LEDs. Been looking at comparisons on Greybeard3D but am indecisive on it. A bit of fogginess is ok.
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Nov 8, 2021 21:31
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Putty posted:Anyone have recommendations for a transparent colorless PLA? Working on a project where I'll need to light up small parts from behind with LEDs. Been looking at comparisons on Greybeard3D but am indecisive on it. A bit of fogginess is ok. PLA is naturally a pale straw color and a little foggy. If you want something truly transparent, use PETG. (Obviously it won't be transparent after printing, but clear PETG is as clear and colorless as it gets).
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Nov 8, 2021 21:33
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Putty posted:Anyone have recommendations for a transparent colorless PLA? Working on a project where I'll need to light up small parts from behind with LEDs. Been looking at comparisons on Greybeard3D but am indecisive on it. A bit of fogginess is ok. You’re going to do a lot better with PETG over PLA for one Max infill or 0 infill, minimum layer height, there’s a lot of small things that add up Here’s a video from prusa! https://youtu.be/SmbAlTxLbg0
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Nov 8, 2021 21:34
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I've had reasonable success with transparent PLA and the results weren't too much different than PETG.
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Nov 8, 2021 21:38
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PETG is perfectly fine. Just haven't printed with it before, but now's a good time to start.
Putty fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Nov 8, 2021 |
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Nov 8, 2021 21:39
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Deviant posted:Now I'm seeing this weird marring on new prints that are fairly nondescript shapes, circles It almost looks like it's been scraped. Maybe it's cooling related? The part you're zoomed into is on the opposite side of the fan right? It might be helpful to run the self test and try and see if the fan isn't a dud. I could be biased though, because I'm dealing with a cooling related issue on mine. ===================== I took apart the printer to swap out the fan. Thankfully I just followed the instructions and it wasn't too bad.  I spent some time researching CPU fans to try and make sure I understood what the problem was. I found this really helpful video about how to tell a sleeve fan apart from a bearing fan.  Sure enough, the old fan has a bronze-ish color to the sleeve material and has some end play in the shaft. The prusa website and docs are unusually vague about the specs of this fan, but from some clues it does indeed seem to be a sleeve fan. It's kind of a weird part to cheap out on from my pov.  The replacement is completely silver and has barely any play at all. I'm more confident that I got the right parts, so I'm pretty happy now. The more you know! Thanks, insta!! I spent the rest of the day trying to dial in the first layer offset again and was printing the next morning:  The new fan is slightly louder than the old one, but it's totally worth it. I now think I got a defective fan from the beginning because a lot of times when I ran the self test, it would ask me if both fans were spinning and then just said everything was fine when I entered in "yes". Every time except one, both fans were spinning. Also I was seeing relatively poor performance on arches with bridged overhands. Now I'm seeing extremely minor improvements in bridging and stringing. Very minor, but I feel like everything is working properly now.   Nine hours and no oil splatters, woo!
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