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Dr. Despair posted:I can't wait to see who the first person is to run klipper on this with an ERCF hooked up to each of the 5 toolheads. I've consistently described Voron as "nothing magic, just a collection of all the best ideas in one printer". Well, we now have a new subset of best ideas. What's voron gonna do with software that supports CNC like print head measuring. Strain Gauges in the print head. Tool changing that.. works. I'm excited for what this means for the community, and that the Prusa is doing this for so little money. Like.. Voron 2.4 money. And if this is all implemented in klipper already.... we're what, weeks away from major upgrades to the voron ecosystem, courtey of Mr Prusa? While we're talking about ERCF.... I"d like to see some custom rails for that so people can do 10-20 channel setups. ImplicitAssembler posted:Sure, whatever. But you still want to be able to print reliable at 200-250mm/s on that size printer. Especially at that cost. It'll do 250. I have zero doubt.
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Nov 19, 2021 07:04
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Thoughts re: the Mega 8k so far. I've been using it for a few days, and here are some pros and cons. + HUGE build plate - Takes FOREVER to print (current print is 76hrs+) for a dagger. (You can edit the timing and speeds to speed it up, but at the risk of burning your screen out sooner, which yea, don't wanna do that.) +/- It's a thirsty boi so you can fit 2 bottles of 1kg of resin in the vat. Great for big stuff, not so great when you gotta clean it. - Holes in the build plate. I get why they are there, but I'm gonna have to make some changes to the raft settings because it's a gigantic PITA to get the goddamn print off the bed when they are lego'd in to a bunch of tiny holes. Thicker rafts or something so they actually catch the scraper. + dual swing open doors, beats the hell outta using a "shower bar" to easily remove the lid to your saturn or mono x. - The UI is a bit too simple. For instance, if you wanna move the z axis to get some more room to remove a plate or something, you have to go to z calibration to move it. There's literally a print setting, a settings section, and an info section. + Vat cleaning is a lifesaver on this thing if a print goofs up. +/- Heavy as hell. Feels stable as gently caress, no worries on that, but you will NOT want to move this again. +/- Getting things off the build plate is annoying, but holy gently caress is it also messy. Take your regular build plate size and bump it by about a foot in either direction. Buy a silicone mat and a uv flashlight for cleanup. Top of my mat looks like a goddamn murder scene/pollack painting at the moment. - The MAX line is in WHITE ink on bright SHINY aluminum. Very hard to see. That's about as nitpicky as I wanna get though. +/- If you gently caress up a print, or if a print fucks up, that's a lot of resin down and wasted. Not really a pro or con, but definitely something to keep in mind. I'm happy with it for the price I got it for. I think if I picked it up for full retail I'd be upset, but all in all it's printing the giant poo poo I need printed even if it's taking forever to do it. Figured someone would appreciate a trip report before grabbing a giant printer. I'm 99% sure that all of this will be said for every single gigantic resin printer, but it's worth thinking about if you plan to start messing with big poo poo.
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Nov 19, 2021 08:55
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Me: "I have an Octopus Pro that I'd like to use for my Tronxy X5SA. Is there any guide out there for what I should define or comment out for Marlin?" Every 3D printing discord and subreddit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXJKdh1KZ0w&t=44s
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Nov 19, 2021 15:45
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It occurs to me that the speed settings I used for that fish are really intended for rapid prototyping and I should be happy they produce that good of results at all on aesthetic pieces. I need to try a cosplay part at a lower speed and see if it does the same thing with the seam blobs.
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Nov 19, 2021 15:52
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Doubleposting because of the "dry your filament" brigade: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CFxT1q6dX8 "Can you leave your PLA spools out in the open and do you really need to dry PETG before every use?" you will lose quality, but indoor at moderate humidity is fine for the most part Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Nov 19, 2021 |
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Nov 19, 2021 17:36
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Deviant posted:Doubleposting because of the "dry your filament" brigade: Honestly, I'm surprised that he was surprised at the quality loss with indoor PLA. That excess stringing is pretty much exactly what I noticed and exactly why I won't use any undried PLA that's been sitting out for more than about two months for client work. It's "fine" for most of what I'd print, but it wouldn't be acceptable for paid stuff, especially when dealing with parts I wouldn't want to hit with a heat gun.
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Nov 19, 2021 18:44
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Yknow obviously a prusa with tool changing opens up a lot of possibilities, and people will have plotter mods ready within the first month And it’d probably be easy to attach a small dremel to one of the tool carriages and have a sorta lovely desktop CNC (that flings dust all over your sensitive equipment this is a bad idea) But given that it enforces z leveling via … nozzle stress (I don’t really understand what’s going on there) I wonder how you’d manage that without a hot end installed
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Nov 19, 2021 18:45
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I don't know why you'd want to put a pen on your $2500+ 3D printer to turn it into a less effective plotter than the ones you can get on AliExpress for like 40 bucks.
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Nov 19, 2021 18:50
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People are obsessed with doing really stupid poo poo with 3d printers.
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Nov 19, 2021 18:56
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Sagebrush posted:I don't know why you'd want to put a pen on your $2500+ 3D printer to turn it into a less effective plotter than the ones you can get on AliExpress for like 40 bucks. 
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Nov 19, 2021 19:03
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biracial bear for uncut posted:People are obsessed with doing really stupid poo poo with 3d printers. Speaking of... has anyone ever come up with a conductive filament so you can print PCBs without all that loving around with UV lights and chemicals?
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Nov 19, 2021 19:05
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Sagebrush posted:I don't know why you'd want a plotter
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Nov 19, 2021 19:09
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You can buy conductive filament with graphite particles embedded in the plastic. You wouldn't be able to carry power with it, because its resistance is (iirc) on the order of a couple hundred ohms per inch, but it should work fine for data.
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Nov 19, 2021 19:10
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Sockser posted:Yknow obviously a prusa with tool changing opens up a lot of possibilities, and people will have plotter mods ready within the first month Or spend half the amount on a decent ShapeOko instead of making a terrible CNC router that will shake itself apart while moving with the spindle on.
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Nov 19, 2021 19:11
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Sagebrush posted:You can buy conductive filament with graphite particles embedded in the plastic. You wouldn't be able to carry power with it, because its resistance is (iirc) on the order of a couple hundred ohms per inch, but it should work fine for data. Yes, I'm working on something similar right now. I'm making up some graphite infused paint that will conduct electricity.
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Nov 19, 2021 19:13
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Plotters are useful if you need to write things down.
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Nov 19, 2021 19:14
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Speaking of... has anyone ever come up with a conductive filament so you can print PCBs without all that loving around with UV lights and chemicals? Short answer: No. Slightly longer answer: There have been a bunch of "conductive" filaments over the years of the hobby, but they all had hilariously high resistance. Just because you could get a multimeter to beep on the continuity setting while sampling along a strand of the stuff doesn't mean it would work in PCBs.
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Nov 19, 2021 19:36
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So you guys weren't kidding about the Prusa. 5 mins after taking it out of the box I was printing my first print and it seems to be going flawlessly. Yes, I'm aware I've just doomed myself by stating this.
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Nov 19, 2021 19:47
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InternetJunky posted:So you guys weren't kidding about the Prusa. 5 mins after taking it out of the box I was printing my first print and it seems to be going flawlessly. Yes, I'm aware I've just doomed myself by stating this. This is very important: Don't experiment with anything. Use the slicer profiles in PrusaSlicer as-is for a while and just don't gently caress with anything except turning supports on and off as needed. See how long it lasts before issues crop up. For what it's worth, my Mini is still going strong whenever I use it now that I'm not loving around and experimenting with things. I was going to put the upgraded Z-sensor they came out with for the Mini+ on there but until it fucks up I really don't want to mess with anything.
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Nov 19, 2021 19:57
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Ghostnuke posted:Yes, I'm working on something similar right now. I'm making up some graphite infused paint that will conduct electricity. Years ago I was experimenting by 3D printing PCBs with through-holes to populate with components. There were channels on the bottom for filling with conductive paste that I made with dry graphite powder + some binder (I tried white glue, clear glue, acrylic paint, some other adhesive I can't remember) to make the traces. Then I poured a layer of epoxy resin over the back to seal it all. It was quite the mess but it was a fun little experiment. https://imgur.com/a/g7VJbGu Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Nov 19, 2021 |
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Nov 19, 2021 19:59
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withak posted:Plotters are useful if you need to write things down. On further reflection it might be kinda cool to add a fine-tip sharpie as one of the 3D printer tools to doodle all over the surface of a part as it prints. Make it look like one of those BMW art cars.  I still don't think that turning the printer into a regular 2D plotter is a good idea though.
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Nov 19, 2021 20:06
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Man, i don't know what happened, but PLA will no longer stick to my EZMAT surface. I thought my bed was bowing since it was always in the same spots, but flipping over the plate it grips just fine to the textured PEI I had on the other side. Just tried a light sanding so we'll see I'd that does it. Cleaned the heck out of it with IPA for no change.
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Nov 19, 2021 21:30
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Is there something wrong with this new spool I got? It's the same grey filament that comes with Prusa printers, if that matters. I noticed that it's kind of messy on the sides, and as you can see, the spool is still vacuum sealed and I haven't touched it. Did I get a dud?  I bought another spool of a different color that is pretty neat. I think this is what they should look like?
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Nov 19, 2021 21:56
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Unless the free end of the spool is totally loose it’s probably fine.
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Nov 19, 2021 22:00
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Neat spool winding is a marketing gimmick that doesn't actually matter.
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Nov 19, 2021 22:01
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Ok. The end is secured into holes at the side. I was worried that it might have tangles in it. Thanks!
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Nov 19, 2021 22:06
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Yeah tangles can only occur if the free end is waving around uncontrolled so it can slip inside of a loop on the spool. If the end is always secured on the spool, in your hand, or in the printer then it doesn't matter how sloppy the winding looks, it can't get tangled. Every spool I have gotten from Prusa has been wound perfectly though.
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Nov 19, 2021 22:09
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Sockser posted:But given that it enforces z leveling via … nozzle stress (I don’t really understand what’s going on there) I wonder how you’d manage that without a hot end installed It'll be a piezo sensor or similar. A cheap one I can get from the local electronics store will let me home a printer to within one step, with grams of pressure. Absolutely nothing in terms of force. Using a pen would (I just measured because I was curious) exert more pressure. I measured between 9 and 15 grams when writing with a sharpie. I'm interested in the partial bed heating functionality. The rest of the machine design I'm already using or about to install in some form or another on my other machines.
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Nov 20, 2021 00:31
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in one of the interviews, prusa talked about one of the advantages of the bed being designed that way is that there are also 16 thermistors (one for each zone). Because they are measuring temp in each zone, they can actively heat parts of the bed which cool faster, such as the corners. Which is such a mind blowingly simple and elegant solution to that problem.
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Nov 20, 2021 02:41
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 well, that isn't good.  I think I turned retraction up too high.
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Nov 20, 2021 05:21
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i have to make a gift for someone who loves antique tools; i've been scouring estate and rummage sales and have yet to find anything that's both cool and in budget. i'm coming around to just making use of my Metal Prototyping Power and cooking something up from scratch, starting with this very funky-looking involute wrench, patented on October 1 1900 and out of production since shortly after that i traced the original patent sketch from 1900 and printed a small test wrench as a proof of concept; printing flaws and flimsy resin aside, it seems to work well on pretty much anything that fits in its jaws, even round things like pipes  next step is to make up a Sculpt Ultra mold, and then I can cast myself a properly-functional involute wrench in metal. or a bunch of them, if i want, that's the cool thing about reusable molds. anyways this and one or two other custom-reproduced vintage tools are gonna crush with the Hobby Dads in my life this christmas
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Nov 20, 2021 09:16
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That is awesome! Keep us up to date on how it comes out, I'd love to see a finished piece.
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Nov 20, 2021 10:37
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Ambrose Burnside posted:i have to make a gift for someone who loves antique tools; i've been scouring estate and rummage sales and have yet to find anything that's both cool and in budget. i'm coming around to just making use of my Metal Prototyping Power and cooking something up from scratch, starting with this very funky-looking involute wrench, patented on October 1 1900 and out of production since shortly after that Just FYI there's a reason this design never caught on - it's really easy to utterly obliterate whatever you're turning with this design, or just deform it enough that the wrench is effectively welded to the piece. Even the modern versions with a hinge to let you release them can do this (or maneuver yourself into a position where it's impossible to release). Obviously you're just giving them as novelty gifts but I thought I'd let everyone know just so they don't end up with a tool permanently attached to the cold water inlet to their kitchen sink, not that this is a specific example from personal experience or anything.
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Nov 20, 2021 11:01
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Just FYI there's a reason this design never caught on - it's really easy to utterly obliterate whatever you're turning with this design, or just deform it enough that the wrench is effectively welded to the piece. Even the modern versions with a hinge to let you release them can do this (or maneuver yourself into a position where it's impossible to release). Obviously you're just giving them as novelty gifts but I thought I'd let everyone know just so they don't end up with a tool permanently attached to the cold water inlet to their kitchen sink, not that this is a specific example from personal experience or anything. yeah the alloy i’m using isn’t strong enough to actually apply real-wrench torque at real-wrench scales from a conventional wrench-shaped tool, so i’m not too worried- the wrench would break before the fastener would strip or deform. i may either scale it down/tweak it and turn it into a (usable) bottle opener with an interesting pedigree, or else add a decorative scroll to the tip + some embossed decoration to the sides, to signal that it is perhaps not a toolbox workhorse a while back i printed a mold for a plumb-bob and cast a few, which unlike a wrench is actually still useful as a tool even if cast in sth pewterey instead of brass or steel. should probably try to think up more gift ideas in that vein Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Nov 20, 2021 |
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Nov 20, 2021 11:50
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Pages late, but if you have trouble cleaning out the inside of hollow prints, get needleless syringes and squirt clean IPA through it (into a container). Then canned air blows out the IPA nicely.
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Nov 21, 2021 16:36
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Make sure to wear eye protection if you do that though, and it shouldn't need to be said, but DO NOT do that with an open flame nearby.
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Nov 21, 2021 17:18
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Setting up my new resin printer cabinet at the new place and I'm trying to decide what my best option is for these. Measurements were slightly off so each shelf will have a Saturn and a mars 2, but obviously the lids won't work. I was initially planning on adding a vertical divider to each shelf and adding iv film to the glass, but should I be trying to modify the lid so it can open from the front? 
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Nov 21, 2021 17:46
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Hopefully this is the place for this, I PMed one of the printing goons on the spreadsheet and haven't heard back. Would love to have this beast of a tank printed and looking for pricing quotes.
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Nov 21, 2021 18:03
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Vorenus posted:Hopefully this is the place for this, I PMed one of the printing goons on the spreadsheet and haven't heard back. You're not going to get any takers on this, tbh A rough calculation on just the demo files, which is only the upper turret assembly, I'd probably be charging at least $40, minimum. I'm looking at $7 just in raw materials to print this turret, plus nearly a day and a half at ugly settings for this full thing if I did it in one shot None of this is optimized for 3d printing and I imagine there'd definitely be a lot of lovely failures and manual work involved. For the whole thing, I'd probably be charging well over $200, and that's with waaaaaay undervaluing my labor cost And at that price point, You could just buy a printer and join the Hot Ends gang 
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Nov 21, 2021 18:27
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No worries, I know very little about 3D printing so I appreciate you letting me know not just that it's not feasible but the why of it.
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Nov 21, 2021 18:41
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