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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have cordless dewalt 20v drill/driver/lots of batteries at my shop, but I want some basic tools at home too. Obviously sticking in the dewalt ecosystem would be nice to have more batteries, but ryobi ONE+ 18v stuff is so insanely cheap I can get drill/driver/sawzall/circ saw/OMT/flashlight and 2 batteries for like $50 more than a dewalt drill/driver/battery only. At that price point there isn't much in the game that's going to beat Ryobi. I personally hate them but the only competition with deals like that are known poo poo like PC. Maybe, as another goon brought up earlier, take a look at Skil?
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Nov 30, 2021 17:12
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have cordless dewalt 20v drill/driver/lots of batteries at my shop, but I want some basic tools at home too. Obviously sticking in the dewalt ecosystem would be nice to have more batteries, but ryobi ONE+ 18v stuff is so insanely cheap I can get drill/driver/sawzall/circ saw/OMT/flashlight and 2 batteries for like $50 more than a dewalt drill/driver/battery only. I think that's probably the perfect brand. They have so many different products it's a perfect home brand to jump into. I only have the battery outdoor sprayer but it's awesome.
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Nov 30, 2021 17:28
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My main tool set is Makita but I've recently been grabbing a few Ryobi pieces for yardwork stuff. The weed whacker and chainsaw have been great for my needs.
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Nov 30, 2021 17:30
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have cordless dewalt 20v drill/driver/lots of batteries at my shop, but I want some basic tools at home too. Obviously sticking in the dewalt ecosystem would be nice to have more batteries, but ryobi ONE+ 18v stuff is so insanely cheap I can get drill/driver/sawzall/circ saw/OMT/flashlight and 2 batteries for like $50 more than a dewalt drill/driver/battery only. I bought and have been using all those tools around the house since I bought 6 months ago, been very happy with them from that perspective. I think I know the exact combo you're talking about, and if it's unchanged from when I looked, the circular saw is only 5.5 inches which is less easy to find a blade for. If you look at my post history I ended up buying this combo, which comes with a 6.5 circ saw. Then I took advantage of a "buy 2 batteries, get a free tool" fathers day promo to pick up the multi-tool. But that's way more than the $200 for your combo. Looking at my local Home Depot they seem to have the same number of 6.5 and 5.5 inch blades in stock so it's not like they're impossible to find. I actually do most of my shopping at Menards which doesn't have any 5.5 inch blades in stock, so I'm glad I went the route that got me a saw that does 6.5 saw blades. I guess if planning on swapping saw blades back and forth between the shop and you've got 6.5 inch blades in the shop it could be a hassle, but it's probably fine, especially considering the price on the combo. Like you said, with the price, even if you chucked the circ saw straight in the trash (don't do that) you still come out ahead tool wise vs DeWalt.
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Nov 30, 2021 17:36
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have cordless dewalt 20v drill/driver/lots of batteries at my shop, but I want some basic tools at home too. Obviously sticking in the dewalt ecosystem would be nice to have more batteries, but ryobi ONE+ 18v stuff is so insanely cheap I can get drill/driver/sawzall/circ saw/OMT/flashlight and 2 batteries for like $50 more than a dewalt drill/driver/battery only. They're fine for home or actual work. I have a 20 +year old blue ryobi sawzall that's never missed a beat. And circular saw. And a blue flashlight, but heh....
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Nov 30, 2021 18:14
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CommonShore posted:I'm being given an opportunity to buy a used Bosch compound miter saw ("idk 10 or 12 inch?") and a Bosch jobsite table saw with stand which is apparently a bit of a fixer upper and missing a few parts which I should be able to order. The jobsite saw might be OK but if you need something for like fine finish carpentry I dunno if its gonna be ideal or not. For like cabinet level construction it's probably fine. The compound Miter saw is likely to be quite good (cant be sure without knowing the model). The main big popular compound miter they make is well liked because it does not have a huge amount of material projecting off the back of the saw for the slider like many of its competitors have making them easier to mount close to a wall and not need to be on a very deep table.
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Nov 30, 2021 19:36
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Someone who lives a couple of blocks away said "definitely get a snow blower for sure". I've only seen snow when skiing basically and I bought a snow shovel as soon as I moved here. Are there like... Snow blowers compatible with my DeWalt batteries or is that a big "lol no"?
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Dec 1, 2021 00:47
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redreader posted:Someone who lives a couple of blocks away said "definitely get a snow blower for sure". I've only seen snow when skiing basically and I bought a snow shovel as soon as I moved here. Are there like... Snow blowers compatible with my DeWalt batteries or is that a big "lol no"? I live in the Great lakes snow belt and my medium sized gas one gets bogged down now and again, especially since we get a lot of gloppy heavy snow.
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Dec 1, 2021 01:19
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redreader posted:Someone who lives a couple of blocks away said "definitely get a snow blower for sure". I've only seen snow when skiing basically and I bought a snow shovel as soon as I moved here. Are there like... Snow blowers compatible with my DeWalt batteries or is that a big "lol no"? I have DeWalt for all my indoor tools and for my string trimmer, hedge trimmer and small chainsaw and the bigger 5ah batteries work fine for all that. I don't see that they make a snow blower and their electric lawnmower that uses 2x 5ah batteries is a turd by all reviews. I bought the Ryobi 40v electric mower and it's great (as long as you frequently sharpen the lightweight blade). The 40V batteries also work great for the Ryobi electric leaf blower (I have the brushless, quieter model and its outstanding). Ryobi makes 2 diff snowblowers that use the same batteries (that are different from their One+ 18v stuff anyway). If I was going to get an electric snowblower or other big outdoor tools I'd go with the Ryobi 40V stuff vs the DeWalt stuff I have (and like very much). The Ryobi 40v batteries are big, way bigger than even the largest DeWalt 6ah stuff (that is $$). just my 2 cents.
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Dec 1, 2021 01:39
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I know higher voltage doesn't necessarily mean more power, but I have a 40V Green works snow blower and it can't handle some of our Minnesota Winters. Meanwhile my mom has an 80V Greenworks snow blower and she apparently has no issues with our snow. Not sure if there's a good way to see how much actual "power" different snow blowers have to really compare them though.
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Dec 1, 2021 01:50
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FISHMANPET posted:I know higher voltage doesn't necessarily mean more power, but I have a 40V Green works snow blower and it can't handle some of our Minnesota Winters. Meanwhile my mom has an 80V Greenworks snow blower and she apparently has no issues with our snow. aH really. I wasn't saying it's more powerful because of the voltage but because of the sheer size / mass of the battery which is considerable.
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Dec 1, 2021 01:58
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aH will give you capacity but really I'm looking for watts. I don't remember off the top of my head if 6aH at 40V is going to deliver the same watt hours as 6aH at 80V but ultimately what I'm after is wattage or amperage of the motor, so I can get an idea if it's good to be able to tear through wet snow or not. Comedy option, I could just spend a grand on an electric two stage snow blower.
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Dec 1, 2021 02:20
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Is a non-hammer drill more reliable than a similar hammer drill by virtue of having fewer parts and simpler construction? I need a new drill for general use around the house and for some hobby metalworking. I was looking at some Makitas and they have two that are almost exactly the same model (same form factor, same torque, same RPMs, .3 lb weight difference) for nearly the same price, but one has a hammer function while the other does not. My experience using hammer drills for concrete has been pretty lackluster, and I have access to a rotary hammer I can borrow for any concrete or masonry drilling I need to do. All things being equal I'd opt for the hammer function just in case, but if there's benefit to non-hammer it would be my pick.
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Dec 1, 2021 05:42
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I would seriously never even consider that as a criteria for reliability. And to add to that, hammer drills are only available in higher trim levels. Like.....you go get your basic dewalt non-hammer drill and it's got totally plastic everywhere it can be plastic. Get the hammer drill and the entire chuck is actually made out of metal.
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Dec 1, 2021 05:52
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I mean hammer drills work by using ridged discs, its not like a rotary hammer with a cam.
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Dec 1, 2021 07:00
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That Works posted:The jobsite saw might be OK but if you need something for like fine finish carpentry I dunno if its gonna be ideal or not. For like cabinet level construction it's probably fine. Since I'm a dummy, what would be the difference between "fine finish carpentry" and "cabinet level construction"? Especially as far as tool capabilities.
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Dec 1, 2021 17:42
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FISHMANPET posted:Since I'm a dummy, what would be the difference between "fine finish carpentry" and "cabinet level construction"? Especially as far as tool capabilities. It's not really a formally defined term or anything but to me at least: Cabinet construction is mostly breaking down large sheet goods and framing stuff. If you're off by 1/16" or less across 3' of length and its a big box kind of deal you can probably pull it into square just with a little sanding or adjusting without a ton of issue. Think like building a wall cabinet or a 5' tall storage rack out of 2x4s or something. For like really tight tolerance stuff (lots of small cuts like our favorite end grain cutting boards) or small jewelry size box stuff or really tight miter cuts etc I would define that more as "fine finish" and you want to reliably be accurate on cuts well under 1/16" or else you're gonna have a lot more work to do to fit things up.
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Dec 1, 2021 17:50
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anyone have a commercial workbench they can recommend?
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Dec 1, 2021 18:08
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So if a dewalt is out, can someone just recommend 'whatever' snow blower? I can plug it in, IDC. We have an extension cable in the garage and I just have to handle part of the driveway (about 1.5-2 car lengths and about 3-4 car widths) and the sidewalk.
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Dec 1, 2021 18:19
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FISHMANPET posted:Since I'm a dummy, what would be the difference between "fine finish carpentry" and "cabinet level construction"? Especially as far as tool capabilities. Cabinets are usually made in a shop with permanent, heavy, stationary tools. Finish carpentry is done on the job, with lighter, portable tools. In general, an 800lb, cast iron table saw that doesn’t get chucked in the back of a truck every week is going to be much more accurate, precise, and capable than its portable 150# equivalent. That’s not to say you can’t to good work on portable tools, but it’s probably going to be a bit more fiddly. A cabinet installer is more or less a fine finish carpenter. There’s a decent bit of overlap in the trades and a good cabinetmaker is probably a pretty decent finish carpenter, and a good finish carpenter can probably make some decent cabinets.
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Dec 1, 2021 18:28
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Cabinets are usually made in a shop with permanent, heavy, stationary tools. Finish carpentry is done on the job, with lighter, portable tools. In general, an 800lb, cast iron table saw that doesn’t get chucked in the back of a truck every week is going to be much more accurate, precise, and capable than its portable 150# equivalent. That’s not to say you can’t to good work on portable tools, but it’s probably going to be a bit more fiddly. fwiw I defer on my answer to kaiser as I am relatively a complete noob.
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Dec 1, 2021 18:29
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Cabinets are usually made in a shop with permanent, heavy, stationary tools. Finish carpentry is done on the job, with lighter, portable tools. In general, an 800lb, cast iron table saw that doesn’t get chucked in the back of a truck every week is going to be much more accurate, precise, and capable than its portable 150# equivalent. That’s not to say you can’t to good work on portable tools, but it’s probably going to be a bit more fiddly. +1
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Dec 1, 2021 18:42
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Cabinets are usually made in a shop with permanent, heavy, stationary tools. Finish carpentry is done on the job, with lighter, portable tools. In general, an 800lb, cast iron table saw that doesn’t get chucked in the back of a truck every week is going to be much more accurate, precise, and capable than its portable 150# equivalent. That’s not to say you can’t to good work on portable tools, but it’s probably going to be a bit more fiddly. That's what I used to do. deleted a bunch of  when I looked up and it's the Tools thread, not woodworking....haha
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Dec 1, 2021 19:31
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That Works posted:fwiw I defer on my answer to kaiser as I am relatively a complete noob. In general the cabinets and millwork (doors, windows) are the things in a house that are the squarest and most precisely made. Finish carpenters figure out how to make the nearly-perfect things the woodworkers make in woodshops with big machines fit into the very much less than perfect walls of a house so that it all looks neat and trim and square. There’s an art to finish carpentry that’s about making it look right even when it isn’t right that doesn’t always translate into the minds of shop woodworkers who think in 64ths or thousandths of an inch.
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Dec 1, 2021 19:32
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I don’t think you’re wrong at all and reading back I think I answered a different question than what was actually being asked. Hey, quit looking over my shoulder and writing what I deleted! But, yeah this. Houses and commercial buildings are on a round not flat earth, not perfectly level or plumb or square. So it's an artform scribing in cabinets.
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Dec 1, 2021 19:35
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Despite both giving opposite answers, you actually answered my question as it pertains to tools - it's about accuracy. I'm perfectly capable of ripping a sheet of plywood with my circular saw, a square, and a guide rail, but I'd probably be more accurate on a job site table saw, and even more accurate on a bigger shop table saw. And somewhat the same for miter saws - the more expensive and robust the saw, the closer to truly square a "90 degree" cut is going to be etc.
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Dec 1, 2021 19:41
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:... doors ... are the things in a house that are the squarest and most precisely made. i own a house in New England and i loving lolled FISHMANPET posted:I'm perfectly capable of ripping a sheet of plywood with my circular saw, a square, and a guide rail, but I'd probably be more accurate on a job site table saw, and even more accurate on a bigger shop table saw. track saw squad. Even my lovely Wen saw was more accurate than my less lovely jobsite tablesaw. (My Makita track saw is a hoss. An accurate hoss.)
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Dec 1, 2021 19:44
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I've got a Bora WTX 24" guide with the 24" extension so I can do 4 foot cuts (2' x 4' is the biggest piece of plywood I can transport so I'd very rarely be cutting anything bigger than that). My biggest problems are getting "perfectly" square on the material, and then adding the allowance for the gap between the edge of my saw plate and where the blade will actually cut. I could get a saw plate that would help with the offset (by making it an easy fixed number like 3 inches rather than 1 3/32 or whatever it appears to be now), and I imagine a track saw makes that easier as well because of how it's all fixed in there. But I guess other than the track being wider than my guide, the only truck to getting it square is to just be careful, be it with a track saw or my bora guide? Also yeah I'm looking at the door in the office of my 113 year old house, and it's got this big wedge that's 3/4 an inch on one side glued on top of my door so that it's "square-ish" in the frame.
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Dec 1, 2021 20:03
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"Getting perfectly square" is why I have an MFT (and a rail square for when I need bigger than the MFT can handle comfortably). I was doing it with a speed square against the edge of the rail, but I found it a lot slower and more fiddly. I tried one of those BORA rails before I threw my hands up and bought a track saw, they weren't for me.
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Dec 1, 2021 20:08
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tracecomplete posted:i own a house in New England and i loving lolled Big same
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Dec 1, 2021 20:38
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To bring the "fine finish vs cabinetmaking" question back around - If I spend a few hundred bucks on this used Bosch jobsite saw, am I going to be relatively happy with it if I want to use it for making good, straight, square rips and sled/jig/fence work for joinery? How much better of reliability, squareness, and repeatability can I get without getting into the cast iron/cabinetmaker/grizzly tier of tools? Keeping in mind, as I said, that I do my sheet good breakdowns with a circ saw. I'm not worried about sheet good stuff. Another way to put the question is that I have an opportunity for a good deal on this saw, including right of first refusal, and I want to do stuff like I see Tamar and Steve Ramsay doing with theirs like furniture and endgrain cutting boards. Is this particular saw reliable enough for that or should I keep waiting? (I'm going to buy the compound miter saw for sure - I'm just waffling on the table/jobsite saw now).
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Dec 1, 2021 20:56
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CommonShore posted:To bring the "fine finish vs cabinetmaking" question back around - I would not personally spend "a few hundred bucks" (that sounds like minimum $200?) on a used jobsite table saw of unknown quality that is currently missing an unspecified number of items. I doubt it would be a tremendous upgrade to your janky existing stuff. Is this a situation where you can set it up and take a few test cuts to see how you like it? As a current Ridgid jobsite table saw owner the only jobsite saws that seem worth the possible upgrade are a DeWalt or the new Skil brand table saw. It's probably worth poking around to see if there are any good tuning videos on your current table saw to see if you can make it work better for your purposes in the near term.
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Dec 1, 2021 21:05
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Danhenge posted:I would not personally spend "a few hundred bucks" (that sounds like minimum $200?) on a used jobsite table saw of unknown quality that is currently missing an unspecified number of items. I doubt it would be a tremendous upgrade to your janky existing stuff. Is this a situation where you can set it up and take a few test cuts to see how you like it? As a current Ridgid jobsite table saw owner the only jobsite saws that seem worth the possible upgrade are a DeWalt or the new Skil brand table saw. Well it'll be like CA$300, it has taken light use over a few years, and the missing parts are some of the nuts to hold the blade in place, which he just left on the bumper of his truck one day and lost I'll just order. New it's an $800 saw. I can handle the questions of quality control for this specific saw (and a forum thread can't handle that) - I'm wondering more about the make and model and the category of the tool.
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Dec 1, 2021 21:13
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I don't think the Bosch jobsite saws are very popular in the continental US. I don't think that's a matter of the quality of the saw, they're just not as ubiquitous as your ridgids and dewalts and various house brands. On Lowes and HD the Bosch table saw gets 1/10 the reviews of any of the more popular brands, so there might not be a lot of direct experience with that table saw. I think maybe the general advice you've gotten is the best you're going to get here. Looking through the reviews on the HD and Lowes sites might give you a better insight into potential issues with that model.
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Dec 1, 2021 21:26
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Danhenge posted:I don't think the Bosch jobsite saws are very popular in the continental US. I don't think that's a matter of the quality of the saw, they're just not as ubiquitous as your ridgids and dewalts and various house brands. On Lowes and HD the Bosch table saw gets 1/10 the reviews of any of the more popular brands, so there might not be a lot of direct experience with that table saw. I think maybe the general advice you've gotten is the best you're going to get here. Looking through the reviews on the HD and Lowes sites might give you a better insight into potential issues with that model. AFAIK, the good Bosch job site saw, the REAXX, is not allowed to be sold in the US because of SawStop patent fuckery. The one that they do sell here isn't it. Their table saw stand is supposedly the best around for mobile table saws, though.
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Dec 1, 2021 21:49
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I'm not sure if you can get them easily in Canada, but the Delta 36-725-T2 (or the Ridgid R4560, which is as far as anyone can tell, the same saw with orange paint) is a very good table saw for significantly less than the next step up into full-size cabinet saws.
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Dec 2, 2021 01:05
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IMO the only job site saw that comes close to a cabinet saw is the DeWalt with a rack and pinion fence. Every other job site saw feels flimsy and unsafe. Source: own a sawstop pro, have used my buddies DeWalt (and his sawstop jobsite that he upgraded to)
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Dec 2, 2021 01:27
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The DeWalt rack and pinion fence makes so much sense that I don't understand why it's not a universal standard. Surely they didn't patent the concept of rack and pinion?
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Dec 2, 2021 02:41
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They may have patented their particular implementation; AFAIK the Metabo HPT and Skil ones are not the same (though the HPT fence is excellent, easily as good as the DeWalt--have not used the Skil) and the HPT at least is dimensionally similar to the DeWalt. There are other quality options out there these days. (Even the Harbor Freight Hercules seems OK if you get one that gets adequate QC. But it also isn't cheap, so, I wouldn't.) tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Dec 2, 2021 |
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Dec 2, 2021 02:50
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CommonShore posted:To bring the "fine finish vs cabinetmaking" question back around - For what it's worth, my uncle has an older (under 20yrs) Bosch job-site table saw and really likes it. His buddy who has a big expensive cabinet saw was impressed with its consistency and accuracy.
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Dec 2, 2021 17:46
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