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I'm dumb. It looks like I CAN install the bracket into my existing box. I just have to figure out how to position it first.H110Hawk posted:Pictures are required here. Please post one of the two parts showing where it's screwing in to and one with it screwed in. It is likely bottoming out on something and that's as far as it's supposed to go. How about I post both from multiple angles?  The downrod, unscrewed.      The motor assembly, minus downrod.     Both downrod and motor thing, screwed together as far as I can get them (note the absence of a setscrew. Also note that I have a setscrew but it is not screwed in here.).  H110Hawk posted:Post a picture of your box while you're at it. Box.  (yes this ceiling is black. I decorated this room when I was 10. gently caress you) It looks like I just need to screw my bracket into those two long holes on the upper right and lower left using the screws that came with my new fan. But that STUPID loving L-SHAPED METAL THING ON THE RIGHT is in the way of where I need to get the bracket to go. What the gently caress is that thing and why is it there pissing me off? EDIT: .......... or am I supposed to screw the bracket into two of the smaller holes? I'm realizing that my eye went right to the longer holes because they match the long screw-holes on my bracket. EDIT 2: I should post the bracket too.   
I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Dec 6, 2021 |
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Dec 6, 2021 05:28
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Guys my bed is covered with unassembled fan parts and I'm assuming I need to install this bitch before I can flip the circuit back on, and I need that circuit turned on to sleep. What do I do here? I did not expect this project to be such a long fucker of a pain in my rear end when I started it and now it's too late to turn back.
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Dec 6, 2021 06:38
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I. M. Gei posted:Guys my bed is covered with unassembled fan parts and I'm assuming I need to install this bitch before I can flip the circuit back on, and I need that circuit turned on to sleep. What do I do here? Put wire caps or electrical tape on the wires in the box (edit: separately not together ofc), put fan parts on floor, turn on breaker, go to sleep, gently caress with it tomorrow?
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Dec 6, 2021 07:13
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... oh yeah, I forgot I have wire caps. Probably because I'm so loving tired and drained right now. Good idea!
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Dec 6, 2021 07:46
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I. M. Gei posted:... oh yeah, I forgot I have wire caps. Probably because I'm so loving tired and drained right now. Many such cases!
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Dec 6, 2021 08:20
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I have capped my wires and un-shutoff my circuit and my bed is for sleeping again until tomorrow I DO look forward to being told what to do with this bracket tomorrow
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Dec 6, 2021 08:33
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I. M. Gei posted:I'm dumb. It looks like I CAN install the bracket into my existing box. I just have to figure out how to position it first. No, that downrod is definitely screwed. It looks like it’s been crossthreaded, and now the threads are stripped and I suspect the female threads as well.
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Dec 6, 2021 13:02
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I. M. Gei posted:The downrod, unscrewed. mr.belowaverage posted:No, that downrod is definitely screwed. It looks like it’s been crossthreaded, and now the threads are stripped and I suspect the female threads as well. Yarp, those threads aren't going to hold jack poo poo. I can't really see the female side, but the downrod side is definitely hosed. You can buy a new downrod, but if the female side is messed up then the whole thing is screwed. I. M. Gei posted:Box. That entire metal plate goes away. That appears to be for the old light fixture? Unscrew those two screws and replace the whole thing with this bracket here: I. M. Gei posted:EDIT 2: I should post the bracket too. The long slots should line up with the existing screws on the old plate (the one you need to take out). AS AN ASIDE: The ground wire on your old mounting bracket doesn't appear to be attached to anything... I mean, it's attached to the metal plate, but I don't see that it's connected to your house ground. That's not good. (edit: I suppose you may have removed it already, but I don't even see the ground wire hanging out anywhere). You should take off that metal plate and post a pic of what's behind it. edit again: so FYI, that L-shaped metal doodad on the old plate is a hanger. You use it to hang the fixture from during install. Really useful to keep both hands free to terminate wires. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Dec 6, 2021 |
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Dec 6, 2021 13:18
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Are we sure that's even a ceiling fan-rated outlet box? It doesn't seem like the normal holes for securing the fan mounting bracket are actually there.
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Dec 6, 2021 15:59
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I’m not sure the threads are screwed (heh) up. It looks to me like they are intentionally tapered, and google confirms that sometimes fan downrod threads are tapered to make a more secure joint. E: do the installation instructions mention anything about how deep the Downrod should be screwed in?
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Dec 6, 2021 16:01
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SourKraut posted:Are we sure that's even a ceiling fan-rated outlet box? It doesn't seem like the normal holes for securing the fan mounting bracket are actually there. There were at least two ceiling fans mounted to it in the past. I don't know what else it could be. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I’m not sure the threads are screwed (heh) up. It looks to me like they are intentionally tapered, and google confirms that sometimes fan downrod threads are tapered to make a more secure joint. The instructions say to screw it in by hand at least "4 or 5 full turns" but the drat thing has so much friction that it's hard to tell what "4 or 5 full turns" is because I can only turn it about a quarter turn at a time. I'm not forcing it at all; I'm being as gentle as I possibly can and stopping every now and then to make sure it isn't misaligning mid-screw. I only add effort when it meets with too much resistance to go further without it. I probably ought to add some WD40. I don't think the threads are stripped; both ends look the same way they did when I unboxed them.
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Dec 6, 2021 16:19
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Looks like a tapered thread to me. If op is screwing it in by hand then it's *probably not* crossthreaded. E: at least not enough to gently caress the threads. Op: based on the shininess of those threads it looks like you've probably got it in there enough turns but to be certain you can put some pliers on it and turn a bit more. Use tape so you don't mark the rod up.
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Dec 6, 2021 16:40
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WD40 isn't a lubricant, but I wouldn't lubricate those threads in the event you want the fan to turn counterclockwise. Might catch a fan to the crotch while you sleep some night.
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Dec 6, 2021 16:45
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IIRC downrods are in fact tapered threads. But those threads have been flattened pretty bad   edit: I. M. Gei posted:There were at least two ceiling fans mounted to it in the past. I don't know what else it could be. That just means you got lucky. I've seen big 60" fans hanging from regular boxes... fans having been installed in the past doesn't guarantee that they should have been. I'm not saying this ISN'T a fan box, just saying that it's not guaranteed. I. M. Gei posted:I probably ought to add some WD40. I don't think the threads are stripped; both ends look the same way they did when I unboxed them. No on the WD-40. You don't need that here, and WD-40 isn't a lubricant anyhow. Also, that's not what threads look like from the factory. If they were like this, then someone before you messed them up. Tapered threads, when not cross-threaded, should go until they're hand tight, and then a wee bit more for something like this. You can really just strong-arm it, no need to bust out the tools. Pipe threads are tapered so they can seal better, but you don't need that here, you just need it to hold. If the manual says 4-5 full turns, do that. Looks like there's a place for a set screw on the female side, I imagine the manual says to use that as well, which should prevent it from backing out. edit again: So I'm assuming this is a Hunter fan for a few reasons, and here's an excerpt from a random manual on their website:  So yeah. Hand tighten the downrod (don't use tools) and jam the set screw in (absolutely use tools). IMO that downrod thread is still a problem. But I'm not that kind of engineer so 
DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Dec 6, 2021 |
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Dec 6, 2021 16:49
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Boy I really hope I don't need to order a replacement motor assembly because of worn screw threads. Shipping times are hosed up right now and I need a working ceiling fan today.DaveSauce posted:So I'm assuming this is a Hunter fan for a few reasons, and here's an excerpt from a random manual on their website: It is indeed a Hunter fan and my instructions have that same image. There is another small screw-in downrod piece that looks like a ~1"-2" extender, but the instructions don't seem to indicate that it's necessary at all and I'd feel better not using it if I don't have to.
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Dec 6, 2021 20:45
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I. M. Gei posted:Boy I really hope I don't need to order a replacement motor assembly because of worn screw threads. Shipping times are hosed up right now and I need a working ceiling fan today. You should be able to get a replacement downrod from any LowesDepot. That said, they might not have one that short, and if they do the color might not be an exact match. But if the female threads on the motor housing are fine, then that's all you'd need to replace. But that's assuming the female threads are OK... I really can't tell from the pictures, and I'm not sure I could even tell if I had it in front of me... male threads are easy to see damage on. I'm not familiar enough with mechanical stuff to be able to tell how bad the female threads are. If "working ceiling fan" is your only criteria, then you can get one of a dozen in stock for less than $100 at LowesDepot. They won't be fancy, but they'll be functional. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Dec 6, 2021 |
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Dec 6, 2021 21:14
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I mean is a new downrod actually necessary? I need to contact Hunter and see if they think I should get one or not.
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Dec 7, 2021 00:44
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Soooooo a 4" downrod at my nearest Lowe's is $3. Your local fan/lighting store might have a better selection for size/colors. If you don't care, get some JB weld or something I guess and jam it in there? There's enough thread left to at least engage and keep it straight while the epoxy cures. It'll never come off, but if you just need to get it up that would probably work.
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Dec 7, 2021 01:40
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DaveSauce posted:Soooooo a 4" downrod at my nearest Lowe's is $3. Your local fan/lighting store might have a better selection for size/colors. I guess I can give that a shot as long as there's no reason not to do it. I think the bracket is made to make it easy to get the downrod off when it's time to replace the fan. I'll swing by the store tomorrow and pick up some JB Weld and some extra mounting screws and washers. EDIT: Oh yeah that reminds me. SourKraut posted:Are we sure that's even a ceiling fan-rated outlet box? It doesn't seem like the normal holes for securing the fan mounting bracket are actually there. Here is a close-up of the safety sticker on that thing. The text is a bit hard to make out unless you zoom in, but unless I'm mistaken it seems to indicate that this might be the mounting bracket for my old fan, and the actual fan box is BEHIND this thing? Am I reading that correctly? 
I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Dec 7, 2021 |
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Dec 7, 2021 04:17
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Based on the pics you’ve posted, that’s definitely not a ceiling fan-rated box. The screw holes for a plain fixture and the ceiling fan are in the same place, so a lazy installer won’t make sure there’s the correct box mounted to a joist or bracer before attaching a ceiling fan. All the fans in my house were like this, just stuffed into drywall in the ceiling between joists. DaveSauce posted:IIRC downrods are in fact tapered threads. I agree those threads look hosed. The shiny flattened thread tips are a dead giveaway for smearing damage usually from cross-threading.
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Dec 7, 2021 04:46
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Lawnie posted:Based on the pics you’ve posted, that’s definitely not a ceiling fan-rated box. The screw holes for a plain fixture and the ceiling fan are in the same place, so a lazy installer won’t make sure there’s the correct box mounted to a joist or bracer before attaching a ceiling fan. All the fans in my house were like this, just stuffed into drywall in the ceiling between joists. Got it. I'm picking up a fan-rated box at Home Depot tomorrow. Lawnie posted:I agree those threads look hosed. The shiny flattened thread tips are a dead giveaway for smearing damage usually from cross-threading. Would the J-B Weld idea work? Because if so I was gonna grab some ClearWeld Pro while I'm at the store. My plan was to do the 2-bottle thing and apply one bottle to the male end of the downrod and the other one to the female end of the motor assembly and then screw them together. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Dec 7, 2021 |
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Dec 7, 2021 06:28
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I. M. Gei posted:I guess I can give that a shot as long as there's no reason not to do it. I think the bracket is made to make it easy to get the downrod off when it's time to replace the fan. The JB weld is a "DGAF just need it done ASAP drat the consequences" answer. I would replace the downrod if this were my fan. JB weld is strong... not sure if it's THAT strong, but it's strong. That coupled with the threads not being completely flattened should be good enough, but it's not the correct answer by any means. Also the back of your manual tells you how to swap the downrod. It's simple:  I. M. Gei posted:EDIT: Oh yeah that reminds me. So I posted this earlier, but the short answer is yes, that metal plate needs to go: DaveSauce posted:
DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 13:01 on Dec 7, 2021 |
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Dec 7, 2021 12:58
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I. M. Gei posted:Got it. I'm picking up a fan-rated box at Home Depot tomorrow. In addition to what others said the JB weld idea will get you featured in this thread in a decade when you sell and some poor goon wants to replace the fan. So the question is are you ready to embrace your stats as a future PO?
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Dec 7, 2021 15:36
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His ceiling is painted black, he already is that PO. Kinda surprised people are saying to use JB Weld. If you just need some additional friction to hold it securely, why not use thread tape? Should be thick enough to help grip the threads and provide enough resistance to keep from backing out when the fan is on CCW. But no, we gotta go straight to adhesives.
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Dec 7, 2021 15:46
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Someone who likes statics and dynamics more than me can calculate what effective load is applied to the downrod when a 42” ceiling fan is spinning at max speed, but I’m comfortable saying that the strength of JB weld wouldn’t provide enough of a safety factor to hold up the heavy thing above my face while I’m sleeping. Just replace the downrod - threads are a really strong joining method so if they’re specified for something structural I wouldn’t cut corners.
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Dec 7, 2021 16:33
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OP seemed hellbent on keeping the downrod for some reason, and a lot of people were telling them that the threads were just fine. I was just trying to offer options I would personally never put that fan up with the threads in that condition, JB weld or no. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Dec 7, 2021 |
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Dec 7, 2021 16:40
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Bone Crimes posted:Well, I found one bad wall. I was going around and re-testing the walls for moisture content, and pulling the molding off to get better airflow. The moisture content of most of the walls is dropping, except for one. I had a lot of trouble pulling the molding off that one as my tools pushed right through the drywall when I tried to lever it off. oof. The other walls held up as you would expect normal dry wall to when pulling the molding. So, probably final update. I had a flood remediation guy come out to evaluate, and he said I did everything right. He tested the walls with a fancy meter and couldn't find any issues, except for the one bad wall I mentioned, where he found a few possible spots. He said I might have been ok and it not needed replacing if I hadn't pulled the molding and punctured the bottom of the wall, but that it was a tossup. At the time I pulled the molding, the wall was pretty soft, and I had no real way to judge, except that this was on the one wall where the bottom was soft and crumbly. Overall I think I did ok. Now they are going to get some estimates for replacing the bottom ~2 feet of the drywall on that one wall. Of course the issue now is how to match it with the rest of the walls, and if I can find any of the POs paint for that room left over from 2013. Also getting rid of the ruined rugs which are very heavy as they are wet, and the other garbage too. Still, its good to be able to start to put stuff back together and start living in the space again. Thanks for the advice.
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Dec 7, 2021 16:58
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:His ceiling is painted black, he already is that PO. I have a secret formula for arhesuv. 17 parts jb weld, 12.73 parts red loc-tite, 4 parts super glue. Mix the super glue and loc-tite together for about 5 minutes while simultaneously mixing the jb weld (per instructions). Combine the two mixtures and stir for an additional 10 minutes. Apply to pieces and hope for the best.
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Dec 7, 2021 18:38
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I need to refurbish this nifty display item: A couple years ago, a cat knocked it off of a high shelf, grenading the entire band. Amazingly, none of the glass broke. I peeled off whatever adhesive device it was built with to get inside and repair each figurine. I reassembled it with painter's tape painted red (to match what was there); as you can see, painter's tape is not a permanent repair. Aside from clear silicone adhesive caulk or duct tape, what would I use to reassemble these corners? That is red, or can be painted red?
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Dec 7, 2021 19:23
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DaveSauce posted:OP seemed hellbent on keeping the downrod for some reason, and a lot of people were telling them that the threads were just fine. I was just trying to offer options Yep, no shade on you, I totally understand wanting to offer solutions with the tools someone’s willing to use.
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Dec 7, 2021 20:24
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Alright I'll ditch the J-B Weld idea and pick up a new downrod. Although I am a bit worried that if my downrod threads are THAT hosed then the motor assembly might need replacing too. A new motor piece should be covered under warranty. Should I order one or no?
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Dec 7, 2021 21:31
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I don't understand what the one has to do with the other. The downrod threads likely got hosed by being cross-threaded. Why would that affect the motor assembly? If you're worried about it, just look at the motor assembly for damage?
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Dec 7, 2021 22:02
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What are the two types of metal at play? Just spitballing, but it's not uncommon for the easier to replace part to be made out of a softer metal so that it's the one that gets hosed if something is cross threaded. If that downrod is aluminum or something else soft and the housing is steel then chances are the housing is just fine.
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Dec 7, 2021 23:05
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I think the implication is that the fan rod was bent by a blow that may have misaligned the motor. If it makes you feel better and it's free/cheap, go for it, otherwise it's probably ok. Just make sure to balance y'alls fans. That reduces stress on everything.
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Dec 7, 2021 23:07
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Here's pictures OP posted of the female side:I. M. Gei posted:The motor assembly, minus downrod. I can't really make anything of it. The 1st picture is probably the best. Doesn't look great, but doesn't look as bad as the male side? I dunno, the male side is much easier to see with the side profile and whatnot. edit: Wasabi the J posted:I think the implication is that the fan rod was bent by a blow that may have misaligned the motor. Nah, the issue is that the female side is pretty well integrated to the motor housing, so you can't easily replace just the coupling. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Dec 7, 2021 |
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Dec 7, 2021 23:09
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Oh ok, I think i get what happened... the wobbling kinda reamed out the threading over time, and on a tapered thread it wallowed out where the end of the thing connected. I think your motor should be fine, but yeah usually a warranty claim these days is "do you want a new unit?" so give that a shot first, IMO.
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Dec 7, 2021 23:25
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Apparently my fan already came with an extra downrod that I stupidly thought was an extender for the first one, so I don't need to pick up a new one after all. And it's a little bit shorter which I prefer anyway. Awesome.
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Dec 7, 2021 23:42
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The threads on the motor housing look passable. I'd bet that at some point in the past, someone tried to unscrew it with the set screw in place, which destroyed the downrod threads. Put in the new one as tight as the manual specifies, tighten down the set screw, and you'll be good.
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Dec 8, 2021 01:42
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MOTHERFUCKER The fan box I just got won't loving fit inside my ceiling box. The ceiling box is too small and not even the right shape; it's a square with rounded corners while my new fan box is a circle with two straight sides. I can technically get the fan box screwed on there, but only if I turn it upside-down with the deepened part facing down like a kitchen sink. Which I think is wrong? ... can I put the fan box on upside-down and mount a fan on it? Because I'm getting sick of this poo poo taking so long and I'd love to not have to hire a pro. EDIT: Or can I turn it right-side-up and screw it in even though it doesn't fit inside the ceiling box? It's a half-inch deep so I think it might sit flush with the ceiling that way. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Dec 8, 2021 |
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Dec 8, 2021 04:14
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I. M. Gei posted:MOTHERFUCKER I’m sorry, doesn’t the fan box replace the ceiling box? Your fan mount should screw into the electrical work box already in your ceiling, else you remove it and install a fan-rated electrical box instead.
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Dec 8, 2021 05:40
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