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That Works posted:Second an oscillating tool Thirded, this looks like the kind of job where one of those is a godsend.
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Dec 8, 2021 01:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:Thirded, this looks like the kind of job where one of those is a godsend. It's funny, I just happen to have one. It does come in handy in quite a few situations! I'll report back with results! E: holy crap, you can get a "blade" to cut a junction box hole in drywall! cruft fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Dec 8, 2021 |
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Dec 8, 2021 02:04
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cruft posted:E: holy crap, you can get a "blade" to cut a junction box hole in drywall! I was initially dead set on buying one of those but not all junction boxes are the same size, so I made a little cardboard template for the box sizes I like, then trace it on the wall with a pencil, and then use a "wood" blade to cut through the drywall. It goes through like butter and makes for a perfect hole every time. The "Metal" blades, while pricey as hell, are great at cutting through nails that hold old metal wall boxes to studs as well.
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Dec 8, 2021 02:33
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cruft posted:Our oven arrived, finally! It's been in transit for about 12 months. Bosch 800 induction.  Just ordered this same model today. Did the dishwasher, range, and microwave. Estimated delivery, April 2022. Probably. Maybe. 
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Dec 8, 2021 05:23
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FISHMANPET posted:I don't know what the overall market for electrical is in Everett, but that sounds high to me, coming from the core of a big metro area (Minneapolis). I paid about that for a panel replacement and service upgrade (from 100 amp to 200 amp) and including a new mast pole, and chatting with other people in town, that's about the going rate for that kind of work here in the area. So for just replacing the panel that sounds on the high side (unless "upgrade" also includes upgrading the service). Everett's the northern part of the Seattle metro area, so not the core but definitely part of a large metro area. We're in Seattle itself and going to have a couple estimates next month for various things and are going to ask about panel upgrading ourselves (100 amp panel currently) and I'm hoping it's not five figures.
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Dec 8, 2021 08:06
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I got a panel move/upgrade/better grounding and a sub panel installed for like $6k in my old-rear end Seattle house, but that was like 6 years ago before it was impossible to get contractors to return your phonecalls, let alone have people and materials to fit you in on a reasonable timescale. $10k definitely sounds high and worth shopping around. I don't know if the company I used (Exact Electric) will beat that, but my experience has been that they will at least call you back, which puts them ahead of a good 80% of electricians around here.
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Dec 8, 2021 08:45
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So the hard wood in the new place has some wear and tear on it and could probably do with being sanded down and completely refinished but I don't have the immediate budget for this. I do plan on having that done in the next 5 years or so but in the mean time is there a protective finish that I can apply over the existing top coat, that doesn't involve sanding, to better protect everything until I get around to a full restore?
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Dec 8, 2021 14:24
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cruft posted:E: holy crap, you can get a "blade" to cut a junction box hole in drywall! Besides the box size issue, the other problem with these is that drywall is very good at dulling OMT blades. No big deal for $5 blades, but spending $50 to only have it last a few uses is crazy. A roto zip is the fastest way to do it, but also messy and inexact.
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Dec 8, 2021 21:09
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I just got an invoice from the HVAC company. I've been patient and polite but this pisses me off. They never hooked up the electrical, never did the service upgrade, never tested the system to see if it works. So I politely asked when the installation was going to be finished, and said I was not going to be paying for unfinished work. I already wrote a $16k check, if they want the rest of it, they need to finish the job. So apparently this is how I act when I'm mad. I write a polite email before I was planning to. LOL. e: The owner wrote back while I was making this post, apologizing, and saying he was going to get after the subcontractor. Then he apologized again. At least he was polite back. cruft fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Dec 8, 2021 |
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Dec 8, 2021 21:09
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MrYenko posted:
This is especially annoying because this is an ADA-compliant dishwasher, which happens to be the only form factor that will actually fit under our cast-stone countertop. It's not as if anybody's going to have that one in stock.
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Dec 8, 2021 21:16
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Our appliance dude frankly says that Bosch doesn't tell him anything until the appliance is actually loading onto the ship. He was hoping for December, but now who knows. Embrace the PO mindset. Cut a hole in the floor and inset a normal height dishwasher underneath the stone countertop.
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Dec 8, 2021 21:22
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B-Nasty posted:Besides the box size issue, the other problem with these is that drywall is very good at dulling OMT blades. No big deal for $5 blades, but spending $50 to only have it last a few uses is crazy. OMT is such a good way to refer to that. We got tired of trying to figure out an easy way to refer to that tool so we settled on "doofer". As in, "where did you leave the doofer?" and "why can't you leave the doofer in the same place every time?"
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Dec 8, 2021 21:44
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Vim Fuego posted:Embrace the PO mindset. Cut a hole in the floor and inset a normal height dishwasher underneath the stone countertop. What are a few joists between friends, anyway?
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Dec 8, 2021 21:48
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"Builder-grade" floor joists meaning men of taste can remove them at will.
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Dec 9, 2021 00:03
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In the case of this house, it's 90-year-old virgin redwood, and it's difficult enough to drive screws into it.
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Dec 9, 2021 00:09
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That Works posted:"Builder-grade" floor joists meaning men of taste can remove them at will. Females love a well trimmed joist.
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Dec 9, 2021 00:21
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Arsenic Lupin posted:In the case of this house, it's 90-year-old virgin redwood, and it's difficult enough to drive screws into it. phrasing, I guess
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Dec 9, 2021 01:06
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Rythe posted:So the hard wood in the new place has some wear and tear on it and could probably do with being sanded down and completely refinished but I don't have the immediate budget for this. I do plan on having that done in the next 5 years or so but in the mean time is there a protective finish that I can apply over the existing top coat, that doesn't involve sanding, to better protect everything until I get around to a full restore? I know Bona makes a hardwood floor polish that I've heard good things about but I've never personally used it. Nothing is really going to protect or rejuvenate floors that need to be refurnished. You could look into buffing the top coat and adding another coat of urethane, this should be cheaper than a full sand and refinish.
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Dec 9, 2021 01:09
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Sirotan posted:I know Bona makes a hardwood floor polish that I've heard good things about but I've never personally used it. Nothing is really going to protect or rejuvenate floors that need to be refurnished. You could look into buffing the top coat and adding another coat of urethane, this should be cheaper than a full sand and refinish. Yeah I was hoping there was a simple coating i could apply that could harden the top layer of the material to prevent wear and tear for a few years. I'll take a look at the Bona stuff and the buffing/urethane.
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Dec 9, 2021 01:24
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Rythe posted:Yeah I was hoping there was a simple coating i could apply that could harden the top layer of the material to prevent wear and tear for a few years. I'll take a look at the Bona stuff and the buffing/urethane. The coating that kept our floors in awesome shape for like 60 years was carpet. Some strategically placed rugs might do the same job.
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Dec 9, 2021 01:45
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Has anyone had luck painting cheap blonde laminate cabinets? And if so how did you do it? My house has these cheap pieces of poo poo installed by idiot PO with two brain cells... drawers blocked by the dish washer, half the pulls installed with the wrong hardware, stripped screws, etc. I can probably tighten everything up with proper hardware but I think they look like rear end.
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Dec 9, 2021 01:51
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a dingus posted:Has anyone had luck painting cheap blonde laminate cabinets? And if so how did you do it? My advice would be to save your money and redo your kitchen when one of the Ikea kitchen events rolls around. In the mean time, buy some slightly nicer hardware that you don't hate as much. Painting cabinets is a huge pain in the rear end and difficult to make it look good. I think you would want to use some kind of degreaser to clean them, then probably scuff, prime, and several coats of an enamel paint. I think I used Sherwin Williams "emerald" paint for my trim and some cabinets in my master bath. I brushed it on and it's okay. I still wouldn't go to the effort of painting an entire kitchen, though. https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/emerald-urethane-trim-enamel
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Dec 9, 2021 01:55
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a dingus posted:Has anyone had luck painting cheap blonde laminate cabinets? And if so how did you do it? I painted my kitchen cabinets this summer. It was a poo poo ton of work, but worth it for us to save the $$. It helped that we removed a bunch of wall cabinets so fewer to paint. I used a degreaser, sanded, wiped with tack cloth and then used brush and foam roller. I used a primer and Benjamin Moore Advanced semi gloss. It’s been a few months and it’s holding up pretty well.
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Dec 9, 2021 02:22
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Thanks. I figured painting might not the worth it. We bought the place pre-pandemic and I keep the cabinets were cheap but I hate them a little more every day. Good to knew Ikea is worth looking at Edit* I think if painting was semi easy we'd go through and do it, especially if the cabinets were hard wood or decent quality. But if it's as tough as it sounds I probably won't want to sink that kind of effort in when the kitchen should probably just get redone. a dingus fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Dec 9, 2021 |
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Dec 9, 2021 02:48
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a dingus posted:Thanks. I figured painting might not the worth it. We bought the place pre-pandemic and I keep the cabinets were cheap but I hate them a little more every day. Good to knew Ikea is worth looking at Somebody mentioned this in another thread, and I think it's genius. You can buy custom wood doors that fit on Ikea cabinet carcasses. Hey presto, pretty kitchen for cheap! The brand I heard mentioned was Semi Handmade. https://www.semihandmade.com/
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Dec 9, 2021 03:05
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cruft posted:I just got an invoice from the HVAC company. Good on you. As a customer-service-oriented drone immersed in property & casualty: Always, always, always be polite. Firm, but polite. Losing your poo poo helps no one. Ask me how I know. a dingus posted:Has anyone had luck painting cheap blonde laminate cabinets? And if so how did you do it? If it is wood laminate, and you really want a project: De-mount the doors, remove all of the hardware. Sand the faces & stiles with 120 to 180-grit. You can try sanding the door panels but you'll never get into the recesses. Hit 'em with chemical sandpaper...not quite a stripper, but it can set up for paint pretty well. Prime & paint. Buy the heaviest can of paint you can find, and gloss for cleanability. You better really be enthusiastic for a project. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Dec 9, 2021 |
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Dec 9, 2021 04:46
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A post! A double post! Holy balls!
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Dec 9, 2021 04:51
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You can use vinyl wrap to update kitchen cabinets as well. Similar to how it’s used on cars. I don’t think it’s a good long term solution but might last a few years and not cost too much.
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Dec 9, 2021 06:24
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Always, always go hog wild with spray paint and glue guns.
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Dec 9, 2021 09:16
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FISHMANPET posted:I'm building an outdoor cat shelter, and I'm going to shingle the roof. It's just a simple shed roof, and if I mess it up horrible and the whole thing rots, the stakes are low. But is this video good basic advice on shingling? OK, I'm gonna give this a try tonight. It's 30 degrees outside right now, but I'm doing this inside my garage where it's a bit warmer. Nevertheless I'm going to assume that it's going to be below 40 degrees and the sun isn't going to activate the glue on the shingles. Owens Corning recommends putting a little bit of roofing cement under the tabs if you're doing a cold weather application, and I've got roofing cement, but I'm wondering, since it's such a small area, could I just spend a few minutes with a hairdryer to activate the glue strips?
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Dec 10, 2021 22:34
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Just leave them be. Unless a real windstorm comes along, they won’t flap and the next full sun (at any ambient temperature) will seal them. They re-roofed my house almost exactly two years ago. It was under 30-degrees that day. Full sun will heat a roof at winter temps. That’s how we wind up with ice damming. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Dec 11, 2021 |
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Dec 11, 2021 01:13
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I was wondering if there are quick fix kits for the kind of copper and PVC plumbing you find in an apartment. Something that might handle a pinhole leak or a crack long enough for a plumber to fix it.
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Dec 11, 2021 19:15
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Somebody mentioned this in another thread, and I think it's genius. You can buy custom wood doors that fit on Ikea cabinet carcasses. Hey presto, pretty kitchen for cheap! The brand I heard mentioned was Semi Handmade. https://www.semihandmade.com/ That was me. 
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Dec 11, 2021 19:30
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Dick Trauma posted:I was wondering if there are quick fix kits for the kind of copper and PVC plumbing you find in an apartment. Something that might handle a pinhole leak or a crack long enough for a plumber to fix it. Couple of possibilities. Can't speak for them since I've not used one myself but maybe others can point out any red flags with these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RectorSeal-Pipe-Repair-Kit-82112/100206252 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eastman...-313715703-_-N& https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rothenb...-313959480-_-N&
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Dec 11, 2021 21:31
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NomNomNom posted:That was me. Where did you get the hex pendants?
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Dec 11, 2021 21:58
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 Yep, guess that would be why my lawnmower wouldn't steer anymore
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Dec 11, 2021 22:49
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NomNomNom posted:That was me. I basically have the same kitchen, but I used Voxtorp lowers in "walnut" and white gloss Ringhult upper cabinet doors. Semi-Handmade and the like have a very cool product but I think the price of "fancier" doors doubled the price of my kitchen build. I liked the UK company that did Baltic birch doors.
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Dec 11, 2021 23:46
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cruft posted:The coating that kept our floors in awesome shape for like 60 years was carpet. That's what we plan on doing, going to put down some decorative carpets in the high traffic areas and still be able to show off the hardwood. Not sure what I want to do in the kitchen though.
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Dec 12, 2021 01:01
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falz posted:Where did you get the hex pendants? They're from West Elm. My wife wanted the $600 pendants from Schoolhouse Electric but welp.
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Dec 12, 2021 03:09
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MetaJew posted:I basically have the same kitchen, but I used Voxtorp lowers in "walnut" and white gloss Ringhult upper cabinet doors. We almost went with the ikea faux walnut. The SHM look nice, but yeah I'm not sure the additional hassle was worth it (they messed up our order and sent the wrong huge panel that goes next to the fridge. Their customer service was great but it still delayed the whole kitchen by a few weeks)
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Dec 12, 2021 03:11
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