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Jaded Burnout posted:Alright cheers. Sounds like I値l need to take apart the extruded somewhat to do that? I'd check the temperatures first. I once had my cooling fan blowing on the nozzle when there were flat parts below it which cooled it down enough to not being able to melt filament fast enough. (Un)Loading would fix temperature issues because your heating block is able to regain temperature.
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Dec 6, 2021 12:58
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RabbitWizard posted:I'd check the temperatures first. I once had my cooling fan blowing on the nozzle when there were flat parts below it which cooled it down enough to not being able to melt filament fast enough. (Un)Loading would fix temperature issues because your heating block is able to regain temperature. Okay. Is it adequate to check the numbers on the display? Or do I need to get out the IR thermometer?
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Dec 6, 2021 13:07
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Jaded Burnout posted:Okay. Is it adequate to check the numbers on the display? Or do I need to get out the IR thermometer? The drop-off was over 10ｰ for me when the fan started, that's definitely noticeable on the display. I also think you'd want the temperature inside the hearing block anyway, not the outside. Or just set your print temperature higher and try to print again, as it may be any of the other possible problems mentioned. This is just the most easy one before taking anything apart.
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Dec 6, 2021 13:23
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Combat Pretzel posted:Sounds like BMG drive gearing directly mounted to the stepper motor, which would be 138.333. Mkaes sense, and I went back to the original instructions and I seemed to have missed the part where they give you gcode?? to set it, but they specify esteps to 130. I'll reset and print another benchy there. My test benchy was overall pretty good, just a very minor bunch of zits and thicker layer lines where i was previously smooth, which all points to extrusion anyway. Prob should tune a bit more before i started a 14h print. Its overally ok with some smoothness issues much the same way.
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Dec 6, 2021 15:02
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For anyone who has an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro (or Mars 2, I think they use the same size tank), what do you use inside the tank when you replace the FEP film? I know Elegoo's tutorial says to use a piece of foam, but don't actually say anything like how thick of a piece to use.
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Dec 6, 2021 16:59
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Jaded Burnout posted:Alright cheers. Sounds like I値l need to take apart the extruded somewhat to do that? Clogs and feeding issues can be intermittent like that - say for example your temperature is just a tiny bit low, all you need is a breeze just at the point you start printing an outside wall and that can bring the temp down enough to make the back-pressure too much for the extruder to handle, or a poorly-routed tube that kinks when the head does a certain sequence of moves, or a nozzle not quite tight enough to get constant temperature transfer, or a combination of all of those things - that's you you do the basic, simple checks first. I'd normally say just bump the temp up 10 degrees and go again but as you say it's happening on bigger prints you might as well do the normal servicing routine first *and* bump the temp up just to be on the safe side. Assuming it's a normal set up you shouldn't need to to much dismantling - unload the filament, remove the nozzle and clean it (heat gun and needle or blowtorch and guitar string if you're feeling ghetto), pull the bowden tube out and check it's not damaged (there's normally a little ring you need to press down on the nut to pull it), screwdriver or allen key up into the bowden to check it's not clogged. One thing to look out for is different heatsink/block/nozzle configurations might have very different ways the bowden is supposed to terminate - AFAIK Prusa do a through-tube arrangement which is the most common one. If so once you've checked it (and cut the end square if needed - you can get dedicated cutters for this but I find a Stanley blade and a steady hand more than good enough), with the hotend up to temp, screw the nozzle to finger-tight (obviously don't actually use fingers because, you know, hot metal) then back it off a quarter-turn, feed the bowden back in until it's reached the nozzle, then tighten the nozzle up a half turn (don't force it if it won't turn more than a quarter-turn). While you're doing all this just give everything a once-over, in particular make sure the bowden isn't kinking (they're generally supplied slightly long to avoid this but this can itself be problematic if they're attached to the loom - which travels a slightly different path - in the wrong way, or too tightly. Someone else has already mentioned over-cooling can be problematic, but bumping temps up a bit should solve that problem but might give you inconsistent results if it is the problem, then you have to look at tweaking fan speeds.
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Dec 6, 2021 17:21
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Alright I did the thing And then shattered it while installing the LED but I知 not sitting around for another 5 hours wasting resin to do it again  
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Dec 6, 2021 17:33
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Randalor posted:For anyone who has an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro (or Mars 2, I think they use the same size tank), what do you use inside the tank when you replace the FEP film? I know Elegoo's tutorial says to use a piece of foam, but don't actually say anything like how thick of a piece to use. I don't use anything. Been working fine for me. Just have to make sure to tighten the screws down until they just catch, and go around like that several times tightening a little more each time. Screwing them in all the way will guarantee you need to have a STR18 to complete. However, videos I've seen use bottle screw on tops, so maybe 1/4 - 1/2 inch?
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Dec 6, 2021 17:37
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Sockser posted:Alright I did the thing You should cross-post this to the PYF meme thread.
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Dec 6, 2021 17:37
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 I've been having some of my printed figures failing and I'm not sure what causes this. The supports are printed fine and adhering to the build plate, but about half the figures from this print (and 2 from the last one) have some sort of deformity in the arms or legs like this? Are my supports bad? I generally just use light auto-support in Chitubox and it's worked pretty well for the last few months with only a couple failures across at least a hundred minis. Randalor posted:For anyone who has an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro (or Mars 2, I think they use the same size tank), what do you use inside the tank when you replace the FEP film? I know Elegoo's tutorial says to use a piece of foam, but don't actually say anything like how thick of a piece to use. I have a Mars 2 Pro and I use a random piece of foam packing material I had that's roughly 1/4" thick by 2"x3" across and it works great. It's soft enough to not damage the fep but firm enough to give me the slack needed to tighten the screws.
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Dec 6, 2021 17:50
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RabbitWizard posted:The drop-off was over 10ｰ for me when the fan started, that's definitely noticeable on the display. I also think you'd want the temperature inside the hearing block anyway, not the outside. goddamnedtwisto posted:Clogs and feeding issues can be intermittent like that - say for example your temperature is just a tiny bit low, all you need is a breeze just at the point you start printing an outside wall and that can bring the temp down enough to make the back-pressure too much for the extruder to handle, or a poorly-routed tube that kinks when the head does a certain sequence of moves, or a nozzle not quite tight enough to get constant temperature transfer, or a combination of all of those things - that's you you do the basic, simple checks first. I'd normally say just bump the temp up 10 degrees and go again but as you say it's happening on bigger prints you might as well do the normal servicing routine first *and* bump the temp up just to be on the safe side. I ran it again increased by 10ｺC and it didn't help. If anything it's getting worse; I'm not sure if this is the exact order of print failures but the one on the far right was most recent:  I'll do a teardown on it. I'll need to grab a wire brush and a needle, any suggestions? The kit came with an acupuncture needle but I think I lost it. I've got everything else you mentioned.
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Dec 6, 2021 17:52
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Jaded Burnout posted:I ran it again increased by 10ｺC and it didn't help. If anything it's getting worse; I'm not sure if this is the exact order of print failures but the one on the far right was most recent: If there's a guitar shop nearby grab a 0.014" string (or just a pack of 6 that include one - you'd be surprised how useful they are in a bodgers toolkit). I'm sure your local DIY shop will have an equivalent of https://www.rolsontools.com/products/trade/engineering/6pc-wire-brush-set/ this set which again will be useful for all sorts of things.
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Dec 6, 2021 18:03
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Note that you will want to use a brass wire brush on the nozzle, a steel brush that is too stiff might mess it up if you brush too hard.
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Dec 6, 2021 18:20
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Thanks!
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Dec 6, 2021 18:21
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No, internet, I don't know why I made a 14h can cozy out of the head of Dwayne 'The Rock; Johnson. But I did vs a benchy. I have already reset my extruder settings and am doing proper benchy again, right after I get all my leveling set back up. I didnt actually save my pre klipper settings and my leveling is just screwy 
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Dec 6, 2021 19:43
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Bucnasti posted:
Yeah, supports. What痴 happening is the part is breaking away from the support, getting mushed, and then at some point sticking to the model again. Any bits that do that, go in and put a couple of more light supports. Make sure you get any islands it misses, because auto supports almost always will miss something. Check to make sure none was left on your FEP and I壇 drain and filter the resin because you probably have floaties too. Having said that, why are you doing your own supports? Those models come pre-supported.
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Dec 6, 2021 23:31
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Doctor Zero posted:
 Because I'm a fuckin idiot who didn't even think to do that. Most the figures I print are kitbashed from multiple parts (like the lady on the far right) so I have to do my own supports, but it didn't even occur to me to use the presupported versions of these completed guys.
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Dec 7, 2021 00:04
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I only just started to branch out into filament that wasn't the silver filament that came with my printer and I'm having trouble getting proper first layer adhesion. Does anyone have any experience printing using "Prusament PLA", especially if it's Gentleman's Grey? If so I'd really like to hear your experience printing with it. I'm hoping someone will chime in with a "oh, yeah once I did <x>, everything worked perfectly"  My bed is pretty clean and just today I did a really thorough wash with dish soap. I don't really think this is the issue since I have been printing with both the grey and the silver filaments and whatever z-offset or cleanliness I'm at, the silver filament works perfectly but the grey filament is just a load of trouble. I haven't yet tried: * Adding a brim or raft. I'd rather not use a raft, but brim is ok. I'm testing with first layer squares and the benchy that is on the card, so I did not add a brim to those things. * Acetone. I hear it dissolves the outer layer of the PEI, so I don't really want to do this unless I've tried other things. Also since the silver filament is working, I really don't want to do this just yet... * Glue stick. Probably going to try this next. Here's my unsolicited trip report with Prusament: What I realized is that not all PLA that you can buy off their store is Prusament and the silver isn't it and that there are pretty big differences between the two. The Gentleman's grey doesn't expand as much when you extrude it out of the nozzle and both the rolls I have are pretty fresh out of the vacuum seal so I don't think moisture is playing a part here. I suppose the material characteristics of the two are quite different and this might be related to the adhesion issues I'm seeing. I had to move the z offset 0.1mm lower compared to the silver and then the grey prints okay with simple prints that have large, square first layers. The corners lift pretty hard, which does not happen nearly as badly with the silver. I can print most of the first layer of a benchy though small details like the middle of the "D" never stick to the bed. It feels like the grey has a much higher tendency to curl up and stick to the nozzle. On the bright side, if your print survives past the first layer, the tighter tolerance of the Prusament means that the actual rest of the print will come out really nice. I think I might avoid this stuff in the future though, especially considering how expensive it is. I have almost a full roll unfortunately, so I guess I'm stuck with it.  I made a really nice desk organizer with this. The back right corner lifted so hard that it clogged the extruder and I lost a layer. You can see this in how the color changes on the top surface in the front.  The material has actually separated from the bed 2-3x more than just the area that you can see lifted here. What gives??? 
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Dec 7, 2021 01:27
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That's some of the most warp-prone geometry you could possibly print also
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Dec 7, 2021 01:56
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Wang Commander posted:That's some of the most warp-prone geometry you could possibly print also Yeah I know, but I don't recall having the same problems with the silver PLA. The adhesion to the smooth sheet is really good with that color. e.  I took a picture of the bottom of some recent benchys to compare. The adhesion on the grey one is worse than the silver and if you look at the bridged portions that look squished into the plate and how thick the lines are, both the middle and right seem to be about the same "squished-ness". The flat parts of both were bonded pretty strongly to the sheet and felt like they needed the same amount of force to pull off. I have an older benchy that looks to be printed not as close to the bed and yet has a perfectly flat layer. Maybe this means it's time to refresh the sheet with some acetone... Cory Parsnipson fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Dec 7, 2021 |
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Dec 7, 2021 02:31
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Yeah I know, but I don't recall having the same problems with the silver PLA. The adhesion to the smooth sheet is really good with that color. Whenever I start having weird adhesion problems, I run through this guy a couple times https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/25261-first-layer-calibration-test And it usually fixes everything
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Dec 7, 2021 04:19
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Sockser posted:Whenever I start having weird adhesion problems, I run through this guy a couple times Hot diggity dog, that looks pretty good. Gonna try this in the next couple days. Thanks!
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Dec 7, 2021 04:24
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Thank you whomever mentioned the Hatchbox grey matte PLA, because its printing amazing and it just ... hides flaws ? has great contrast? This might be my new base for a lot of display prints, painted or not, unless i need a specific color 
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Dec 7, 2021 16:43
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It's nowhere near as cheap as unfilled PLA, but 3DFuel makes a glass-fill PLA. It is even *more* matte and has a less plasticky feel. It's not for desktop tchotchkes, but if you have a demo part to bring to a customer, it's a good candidate. It's like $50/spool though.
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Dec 7, 2021 18:33
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I bet it's absolute murder on regular brass nozzles, too. Holy poo poo, it's $70+shipping for a kilo spool of glass-filled PLA (at least they price it the same regardless of what color you pick. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Dec 7, 2021 |
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Dec 7, 2021 21:58
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I知 looking at building an prusa / lack enclosure but the plexi at lowes is really expensive. If I知 going to be dropping $100 for acrylic sheet I壇 rather get it cut to size. Is there somewhere easier to source this?
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Dec 7, 2021 22:37
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Your town may have a plastics supplier that will sell pieces cut to size, but it will cost a few dollars per cut. In the Bayarrhea for instance you can use https://www.tapplastics.com/
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Dec 7, 2021 23:00
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You can also use plexiglass for the front doors only, and use something else (maybe even cardboard, depending) for the other walls. It'll really cut down on the amount of plexiglass needed if you only do the doors.
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Dec 7, 2021 23:53
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Photon Mono X just arrived (fml import duties and shipping reaching 57% net). Bulk cheap alcohol is available in the form of hand sanitizer/rum/methylated spirits. IPA is all imported, and because of hazmat shipping, costs $$$. Is there any strong reason for using IPA over "hand sanitizer" grade alcohol?
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Dec 7, 2021 23:53
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Not really, no. Ethanol will work pretty much just as well as isopropanol, assuming both are the same concentration. The methanol in methylated spirits is significantly more poisonous than ethanol or propanol, so that makes me a little less comfortable using that stuff, but it's probably fine if you're wearing gloves as you should be.
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Dec 7, 2021 23:58
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Sagebrush posted:Not really, no. Ethanol will work pretty much just as well as isopropanol, assuming both are the same concentration. Thanks. A buddy converted his gin factory to hand sanitizer production, so saving quite a few bucks! PPE wise, I'm well aware. Once the first print is done to confirm general functionality, I'm going to pretty much screw with the machine per the hydrogel paper I posted upthread,
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Dec 8, 2021 00:33
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I bet it's absolute murder on regular brass nozzles, too. Yep, it's a thing I use when I want a widget to look industrial when I'm talking about a $2000+ production run and a table of people needs something sturdy to hold and play with. Then it's "we'll optimize it for production and cut the costs" and off to Microcenter I go for cheap ABS.
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Dec 8, 2021 00:33
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Not quite a 3d printing question, but, whats a good laser cutter/engraver under $500. I知 overwhelmed by the choices and am hoping I can benefit from your experience. Right now I知 looking at Atomstack and Ortur.
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Dec 8, 2021 01:16
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I have the atomstack one and it works ok. I haven't dug into it, but I found it annoying that somehow LightBurn apparently doesn't work with it under Windows. Probably a driver signing issue if I had to guess. Otherwise it works fine once you get the PWM dialed in. It really depends on what you want to cut and your environment. With a little work, you can get a K40 CO2 laser that makes it easy to vent outside. It has its own caveats as well, though.
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Dec 8, 2021 01:38
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Welp. I am officially #333 in the queue for PIF voron parts. V2.4 350mm Dragon HF hotend Octopus board. Screw that. Color schemes! I went with a dark grey base and safety orange accent (if its at all available) That will work well with black anodized extrusions or if i go nuts and get a blue anodized one. Black on black is all over the place from what i see, maybe due to strength ? Anyway, time to start getting my source links in order, and then throw it out the window when the stealthburner is released and the ED3 Revo
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Dec 8, 2021 02:20
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AlexDeGruven posted:I have the atomstack one and it works ok. I haven't dug into it, but I found it annoying that somehow LightBurn apparently doesn't work with it under Windows. Probably a driver signing issue if I had to guess. Thanks, I was leaning towards the Atomstack A5. My wife wants to use it as a cutter, more than an engraver, fabric and thin plastics so it looks good for that.
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Dec 8, 2021 03:25
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porktree posted:Thanks, I was leaning towards the Atomstack A5. My wife wants to use it as a cutter, more than an engraver, fabric and thin plastics so it looks good for that. Yeah, it should work fine for things like that, but you might want to investigate a silhouette cutter if you're not looking for heavy cutting. I don't recommend cricut, even though they're really the easiest to use, because they're non-functional if you're not connected to the internet. If you still plan on a laser, be very careful about ventilation, and pick your materials wisely. Anything PVC based will emit chlorine gas/HCl vapor. For anything vinyl or plastic, make sure it's PU or at least specifically non-pvc.
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Dec 8, 2021 03:53
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AlexDeGruven posted:Yeah, it should work fine for things like that, but you might want to investigate a silhouette cutter if you're not looking for heavy cutting. I don't recommend cricut, even though they're really the easiest to use, because they're non-functional if you're not connected to the internet. I have a Silhouette and for cutting thin stuff (paper, cardstock, vinyl) it works great, but thicker/harder materials like heavy cardboard make it choke even using the dedicated craft cutting blade.
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Dec 8, 2021 05:47
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We just got a Carbon M2 at work. I'm cautiously looking forward to printing some interesting parts, very quickly.
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Dec 8, 2021 08:00
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This is good, right? You want your variance to be larger than your layer height? I knew it was bad just from print failures, but good lord.
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Dec 8, 2021 09:26
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