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Eediot Jedi posted:Is there a way to tell what you last printed on the mono X? I'm *fairly* sure I did the amerilabs test print at 1.5s exposure but I'm not 100% sure. On the mars 2 the last print's name is highlighted in different colour. On the USB there will be a file called history.bin that has the filename in there. Not sure if that helps you.
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Dec 2, 2021 15:20
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Geisladisk posted:If you slice a thing in Chitubox it will tell you the volume. It will also tell you exactly how much it will cost in resin if you enter the price of your resin. Yeah, PreForm tells me that too, but I have like 20 models and I wanted to know the cost of printing the lot vs buying pre-printed elsewhere. I can import each one individually and calculate it if I need. Also, is there a way to hollow out a model easily? A bunch of the cost of this print is in interior space.
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Dec 2, 2021 22:06
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PRADA SLUT posted:Yeah, PreForm tells me that too, but I have like 20 models and I wanted to know the cost of printing the lot vs buying pre-printed elsewhere. I can import each one individually and calculate it if I need. quote:Also, is there a way to hollow out a model easily? A bunch of the cost of this print is in interior space. InternetJunky fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Dec 2, 2021 |
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Dec 2, 2021 22:18
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InternetJunky posted:On the USB there will be a file called history.bin that has the filename in there. Not sure if that helps you. Yes it did! Most of the file was binarized but the name of the prints are in plain text. Thanks. The mono X is pretty cool so far but I haven't made time to really use it. PRADA SLUT posted:Yeah, PreForm tells me that too, but I have like 20 models and I wanted to know the cost of printing the lot vs buying pre-printed elsewhere. I can import each one individually and calculate it if I need. The cost in resin is trivial and won't hold a candle to the cost of your time, equipment, consumables and wastage from learning a new skill set. If you just want 20 odd figures, buy them. There are a few videos on youtube about "How much can I print with 1L of resin" and it's a lot.
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Dec 2, 2021 22:31
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Yeap, hollowing is a pain in the rear end and likely to waste more resin than you save unless you already know how to do it properly.
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Dec 3, 2021 00:33
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Eediot Jedi posted:Yes it did! Most of the file was binarized but the name of the prints are in plain text. Thanks. The total build volume is 2L of resin, so about $300, plus supports. Here's an example:  This is just a solid block that doesn't need a "bottom", in the sense that the model would appear the same if it was more like a warped plane. This change would make printing faster and use less resin.
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Dec 3, 2021 02:58
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See I was thinking the figures are typical miniatures. On the phone right now and can't see the dimensions, but if it's a 19 hour print it's gotta be good lord big. E: that being said a printer big enough to fit them one at a time isn't chump change either.
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Dec 3, 2021 03:17
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PRADA SLUT posted:The total build volume is 2L of resin, so about $300, plus supports. Is there a particular reason you've selected a Form printer? 2L of resin for a normal 3D resin printer is about $100. And those models are much easier to hollow than a mini, so you could probably save at least half of that resin, although you'd need supports to print them.
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Dec 3, 2021 03:45
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PRADA SLUT posted:The total build volume is 2L of resin, so about $300, plus supports. I wouldn't hollow those out. You can do it, but you'd want to pepper the bottom with holes and it's still going to be a pain to clean. You can basically do exactly what you want in something like 3D Builder. It might be a little bit of a pain in the rear end, but just take a bunch of chunks out of the bottom by making some cubes and subtracting them from the models, leaving the whole base open. That's what I do for a lot small, boxy models like <15mm scale tanks and vehicles. For those stand-up columns in your other post, just take a cylinder and cut it right out of the center. You'll save slightly less resin than you would by hollowing, but you'll get very close and without any of the downsides.
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Dec 3, 2021 04:38
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InternetJunky posted:Is there a particular reason you've selected a Form printer? I have a FormLabs Form 3 already that I use. Normally I use it for mini work since it can reliably hit 0.025mm details so I don't print large items like the above often.
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Dec 3, 2021 06:34
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Paradoxish posted:I wouldn't hollow those out. You can do it, but you'd want to pepper the bottom with holes and it's still going to be a pain to clean. Could you hollow it and then subtract a big rectangle out of the bottom leaving you with basically only the shell of the top surface?
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Dec 3, 2021 06:44
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Wang Commander posted:Could you hollow it and then subtract a big rectangle out of the bottom leaving you with basically only the shell of the top surface? Yes, I would recommend this video that explains it well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rhyf_JttQEY&t=335s
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Dec 3, 2021 07:01
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Wang Commander posted:Could you hollow it and then subtract a big rectangle out of the bottom leaving you with basically only the shell of the top surface? Yeah, it's all the same. I tend to do it the lazy way because I mostly just use this technique for things that are big boxes. Hollowing and cutting out the bottom makes a lot more sense for models with more complex shapes.
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Dec 3, 2021 08:43
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Just saw these pre-supported models
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Dec 4, 2021 03:10
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Had my first issues with my Saturn after a lot of prints. It randomly starts every print with the plate above the resin. If I home it or manually move the plate down, it has no issues moving to the bottom. But as soon as I start a print, the plate raises above the resin. I releveled it and it fixed the problem for one print but the next print had the same issue. Anyone else has an issue like this?
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Dec 4, 2021 05:44
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Sorry, no idea. I think either my cheaper learning resin was garbage or I hosed my mars 2s plate when I put a flex on it. I haven't had any failures on the mono X with phrozen 4k resin so far. Feels weird but very, very good. I dunno what to print now lol. I have a big backlog of patreons, warmaster stuff, epic 40,000 stuff for basing titans, but instead I'm printing those dnd animals from dice head for my nieces (except hippo bard who's mine  )
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Dec 4, 2021 09:51
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Class Warcraft posted:Just saw these pre-supported models Finally some decent Dead Space minis. e: this honestly isn't totally dumb, I could see myself doing something like this if I was mass producing stuff and was absolutely 100% confident in having my printer, settings, and supports dialed in. But there are just so, so many possible points of failure here. It really isn't worth cramming a little more on the build plate for most people.
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Dec 4, 2021 14:13
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Class Warcraft posted:Just saw these pre-supported models Man, some Plage Marine sculpts are awesome. Just a full-on squad of "fungal mushroom marines" there.
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Dec 4, 2021 17:33
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Geisladisk posted:e: this honestly isn't totally dumb, I could see myself doing something like this if I was mass producing stuff and was absolutely 100% confident in having my printer, settings, and supports dialed in. But there are just so, so many possible points of failure here. It really isn't worth cramming a little more on the build plate for most people.
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Dec 4, 2021 18:04
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InternetJunky posted:If you're mass producing things it would be far more efficient to buy another machine (or switch to a traditional casting system). The resin waste for doing these multilevel supports would add up so quickly. Yeah that uncle Jesse video is gonna lead to a ton of dumbshit moves from people to do this more regularly
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Dec 4, 2021 18:52
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Springfield Fatts posted:Hell yes brother. I'm grinding my way through a couple hundred tiny Orks myself. Drybrushing is your friend. Just wanted to follow up on this and say that last night I knocked out my first regiment of not-Chaos Warriors for playing Kings of War in 10mm, and in a lot of ways it was even more fun than painting 28mm. Because of the small scale, I had a limited palette (chose a bone color for the armor scheme, red for tabards/topknots/other accents, black for helmet horns, and the rest is just browns and metallics where applicable), and so between painting that on, and some judicious application of drybrushed highlights and some shade washes, everything went by fairly quick and smooth. And another reason I think it was more fun is that if I said "I knocked out a regiment last night" in 28mm scale, I would've had to take a zillion shortcuts due to the large number of figures clogging up my paint desk, and probably wouldn't be very satisfied with the final result after only spending an evening on it. But with 10mm scale dudes, where fine details are way less important than just making sure they look like a cohesive unit? Hell yeah I'm happy with how they look 
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Dec 4, 2021 20:52
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Post pics in the GW Specialist thread, we need more Warmaster representation in there!
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Dec 4, 2021 21:59
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w00tmonger posted:Yeah that uncle Jesse video is gonna lead to a ton of dumbshit moves from people to do this more regularly I hope they post pictures. Sydney Bottocks posted:Just wanted to follow up on this and say that last night I knocked out my first regiment of not-Chaos Warriors for playing Kings of War in 10mm, and in a lot of ways it was even more fun than painting 28mm. Because of the small scale, I had a limited palette (chose a bone color for the armor scheme, red for tabards/topknots/other accents, black for helmet horns, and the rest is just browns and metallics where applicable), and so between painting that on, and some judicious application of drybrushed highlights and some shade washes, everything went by fairly quick and smooth. And another reason I think it was more fun is that if I said "I knocked out a regiment last night" in 28mm scale, I would've had to take a zillion shortcuts due to the large number of figures clogging up my paint desk, and probably wouldn't be very satisfied with the final result after only spending an evening on it. But with 10mm scale dudes, where fine details are way less important than just making sure they look like a cohesive unit? Hell yeah I'm happy with how they look I painted a single stand of high elf spearmen the other day and it was so much fun compared to 28/32mm. With strong colours and exaggerated highlights they look fantastic and they're so quick. You can go hard on the first rank then easy on the bottom half of the second to save even more time.
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Dec 4, 2021 23:56
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Springfield Fatts posted:Post pics in the GW Specialist thread, we need more Warmaster representation in there! Will do, here's a pic for this thread as well, of my 3D printed Forest Dragon "Despoilers Heavy Infantry" and lord (apologies for crappy camera phone pic):  Just have to finish basing them and they'll be all set.
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Dec 5, 2021 16:35
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This may not be the place to ask, but any of you merchants working with Etsy AND Shopify? Considering shuttle or some other option for synchronizing listings so I do t double my workload setting up an independent store
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Dec 6, 2021 06:02
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From the earlier discussion on miniature scale: you’re looking at multiple proportions that aren’t quite exactly the same. Here is a modestly comprehensive discussion of miniature scale that I use as a sculptor to design the basics. What we call “scale” is actually a nightmarish conglomeration of different artistic ways to render the human-ish form in miniature via selective exaggeration and emphasis in a way that looks good despite the size. Note that in the scale explanation, you’re looking at both scale and proportions - even if the “height to eyes/head” is correct for your KD project, if the proportions are off, it’ll look weird. As for what sculptors choose? I go with gut feeling and also try to do human models about 5 heads tall, with bigger monsters being 6 heads or so. Is this an appropriate place to talk about Patreons when launched? I’m hoping to get my fantasy football sideline figures one set up in the new year. Also here’s a rendered mini. 
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Dec 6, 2021 16:27
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w00tmonger posted:This may not be the place to ask, but any of you merchants working with Etsy AND Shopify? Yep. I use Sellbrite. It's not perfect, and at times clunky, but it's the best I've found and does bulk really well. It also won't break the bank.
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Dec 6, 2021 16:34
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Any reason I shouldn't print directly on the build plate (FormLabs SLA), assuming the model has a sufficient base? I've done it before and aside from being more difficult to remove, it's seemed fine thus far.
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Dec 7, 2021 00:21
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 Aphyrions Patreon delivering the knight-goods 
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Dec 7, 2021 00:55
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PRADA SLUT posted:Any reason I shouldn't print directly on the build plate (FormLabs SLA), assuming the model has a sufficient base? I've done it before and aside from being more difficult to remove, it's seemed fine thus far. Depending on your base layer settings this can cause elephant's foot in DLP printers -- not sure if that's also an issue for SLA. w00tmonger posted:This may not be the place to ask, but any of you merchants working with Etsy AND Shopify?
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Dec 7, 2021 02:06
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Some idiot thought it would be a good idea to print a billion tiny archers that are so small they fall through his wash basket and straight into the exposed fan.PRADA SLUT posted:Any reason I shouldn't print directly on the build plate (FormLabs SLA), assuming the model has a sufficient base? I've done it before and aside from being more difficult to remove, it's seemed fine thus far. Angling the model leaning back means you can put supports on the rear facing surfaces, where it doesn't matter so much if they don't pull cleanly. Depending on the model, some might print better at an angle than straight up, that's more about how many overhangs are created when upright vs angled and where the supports need to be to hold to the prominent features.
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Dec 8, 2021 09:47
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Sorry to double post but I cannot believe the difference in how easy and successful 3d printing is since I got a new machine and decided to use good resin instead of waiting for the cheap poo poo to run out while learning. I thought there'd be like a small quality jump not night and day. I probably hosed the plate on my mars 2, which was half the problem. I really like how solid the mono X leveling bolts are compared to elegoo's ball head thing. I've had like three barely noticeable failures and I've printed a lot since it arrived. Nothing has stuck to the FEP, nothing has been so hard to remove from the build plate one sharp jab hasn't got it off. The prints are so much tougher while still flexible, I had to put effort into breaking the tiny spears on my warmaster guys instead of snapping at a glance. About the only complaint is I haven't quite got the mono X's uv power setting vs exposure time right, I'm getting floccules of resin hanging around between prints which is not great but finding that balance is taking forever.
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Dec 8, 2021 10:00
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I've recently scene a lot of the Photon 3D printers have gone on sale, to the point now where I'm really considering getting one. I think their base Photon Mono S is like $200 which seems very reasonable. I absolutely love the models by archvillain games (https://www.archvillaingames.com ), and so I'm thinking of a subscription to their monthly release together with a 3D printer could solve my mini needs for the foreseeable future. What I'm wondering is with a basic Photon printer will I be able to print these minis to a decent quality? Will I also need a wash and cure station? Also, how much work will be needed to actually 'cut free' the minis once printed?
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Dec 8, 2021 12:05
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PotatoManJack posted:I've recently scene a lot of the Photon 3D printers have gone on sale, to the point now where I'm really considering getting one. I think their base Photon Mono S is like $200 which seems very reasonable. I absolutely love the models by archvillain games (https://www.archvillaingames.com ), and so I'm thinking of a subscription to their monthly release together with a 3D printer could solve my mini needs for the foreseeable future. Aside from the initial learning curve, miniatures coming out of a Mono S will look fantastic. I'm pretty sure Archvillain includes pre-supported models too, so that's one less thing to worry about. A wash and cure station is nice, but not absolutely necessary. You can do just fine with a tub or two of IPA and a home-made curing box - I used some stick-on UV LED strips I got off Amazon inside a cardboard box for a long time before I got a wash & cure. A flex plate is a more important quality of life upgrade, imho. Most of the time you can just pull the supports off the mini; delicate parts or heavy supports might need to be snipped.
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Dec 8, 2021 12:27
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Not to be a jerk, but there's no model called Mono S. The Photon Mono is very nice and is what I'm running, but the old Photon S is not a mono printer, so make sure which one you're looking at.
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Dec 8, 2021 13:51
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they maybe meant mono se e: although $200 for the se would be kind of an insane deal i guess
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Dec 8, 2021 14:23
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PotatoManJack posted:I've recently scene a lot of the Photon 3D printers have gone on sale, to the point now where I'm really considering getting one. I think their base Photon Mono S is like $200 which seems very reasonable. I absolutely love the models by archvillain games (https://www.archvillaingames.com ), and so I'm thinking of a subscription to their monthly release together with a 3D printer could solve my mini needs for the foreseeable future. I have the old photon S as it was on sale towards the beginning of the pandemic and the minis coming off it look great once you have your settings dialled in which is fairly painless. The main advantage of the mono printers is not quality but speed of printing and the life of the screen. I will be upgrading to a mono once my Photon S dies for sure but if you are wanting a printer for cheap the old photons are still excellent quality for ridiculous prices. I do not have a wash and cure station I have Tupperware, gloves and a toothbrush that works just fine. My closed bucket with tinfoil and UV lights does the job just fine too but again having got my feet wet I would probably pick up a station with my next upgrade for ease of use. With regards to the post print work it depends on how familiar/comfortable you are with craft modelling and how well the minis are supported. Most come pre-supported professionally these days and aside from a few large supports they tend to come away fairly clearly in warm water just be careful with any fragile parts. I tend to just use a pair of cheap clippers, x-acto knife equivalent and a flat file to clean up my minis. For a 28-32mm figure it probably takes about 5-15 minutes total for clean up when you're a bit quicker
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Dec 8, 2021 15:17
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This is what I tell people about buying a wash and cure station. What do you have more of, Time or Money? If you've got the cash and want to save time, get the station. If you've got plenty of time to mess around with tupperware and LED lights, build your own or just use the sun.
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Dec 8, 2021 15:49
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Agreed. I have an old Photon S and when I think of upgrading I realize my print schedule is basically set then go to work. Never really need things to be faster than 8 hours so I'm set. But that wash station has saved me hours of clean up and poo poo spilling everywhere.
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Dec 8, 2021 16:03
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I got an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro in their Black Friday sale, and it's a pretty big step up from my Anycubic Photon. The difference in details is noticeable and the speed difference is just huge. Glad I spent the money for sure.
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Dec 8, 2021 16:30
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