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did you screws_tilt_calibrate ? hot bed for a while ? even with that I have a .18 variance at the probe points, but im not chasing the 0.02 adjustment that is left with the screws (but i did) There is a bit of a debate on if you need to save the mesh after its generated, or if klipper will use the one saved to default. OR, is it using the one in default when it first started, and your nw default needs to be saved / klipper restarted for it to pick it up. I currently have no G29 in my start gcode, as i just can quickly hit the button before a fresh print day, i dont need it back to back prints. Fluiddpi is better in this regard.
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Dec 8, 2021 15:44
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Roundboy posted:did you screws_tilt_calibrate ? hot bed for a while ? Yeah this was before I did anything but manually level before calibrating. Bed had just got to temp and this checks out with how it felt papering under the nozzle around the bed. After a round of tape I'm down to .17, a few super low points I'm going to hit and just call it good. It seems to use the last mesh automatically, cause my first bed print test after a restart was pretty decent except in the most insane corner.
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Dec 8, 2021 18:08
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Wanderless posted:We just got a Carbon M2 at work. I'm cautiously looking forward to printing some interesting parts, very quickly. Cool, I'd be really interested in hearing about what they're like to work with from someone who's actually been there, done that with one.
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Dec 8, 2021 18:23
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Bondematt posted:Yeah this was before I did anything but manually level before calibrating. Bed had just got to temp and this checks out with how it felt papering under the nozzle around the bed. Splitting hairs but I think most thermistors for the bed are right at the heater, so your 'bed' getting up to temp is just reporting your heater is up to temp. It takes a bit for that chunk of metal / glass / what have you to evenly heat up and soak literally from my console: quote:09:46:02 So the mesh is saved to default, and its being used now. But i need to save config if i want to use it on restart? .... but I am using the default and only profile, so on restart the profile will just be loaded. Unless this is bad wording and really means any other specified profile?
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Dec 8, 2021 19:44
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Wanderless posted:We just got a Carbon M2 at work. I'm cautiously looking forward to printing some interesting parts, very quickly. Man I wish I could play with a $50,000/year printer (plus materials).
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Dec 8, 2021 20:00
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I'm looking at getting my first resin printer I'm leaning towards the elegoo Saturn for the larger build plate but the few YouTube reviews I've seen seem to say it's quality isn't as good as the mars 2 pro, let alone the Mars 3. I'm coming from fdm so the quality will still be way ahead of what I'm used to but wondering if there are any goons who have experience with both the Mars 3 and the Saturn 4k they can share?
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Dec 8, 2021 20:40
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because people were talking about hollowing out resin and how to add holes/drainage earlier, here's what one of my particularly-intense implementations looks like. i'm making custom wax seal stamps for people for christmas using a mold design with interchangeable design plates and just ran a resin prototype, which i hollowed out for $aving$. i added five drainage holes, two sets of hole pairs on opposite faces of the stamp sides, and one more on the end of the 'handle', all 3mm before post-cure shrinkage. you can only see one of em here  normally i'd do 2 or maybe 3 larger (~5+mm) holes in more discreet places, and then leave them open, but i wanted to try something involving this 3mm brass rod i have  short plugs of brass rod press-fit quite tidily into the drain holes, it turns out, and imo has a lot of potential as a Deliberate Design Feature to effectively conceal even very aggressive drainage in hollowed-out models. proper rivets made from cut-down tacks would work even better b/c it'd provide a finished head that'd completely conceal the hole Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Dec 8, 2021 |
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Dec 8, 2021 21:08
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Tea Bone posted:I'm looking at getting my first resin printer I just bought a Saturn coming from fdm printer. I am still getting it dialed in and there is a learning curve to printing with resin (don’t ruin your fep on your third print by gouging the poo poo out of it trying to scrape off a failed print). However the detail in resin prints is night and day difference. It’s been great and I plan on printing a ton of miniatures and DnD stuff with my son over this Christmas. I too was considering a Mars 3 but the print bed size difference meant I could do terrain in resin too which was the tipping point for me.
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Dec 8, 2021 21:08
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I've only had the Saturn and the og Mars, but the Saturn I got had worked amazingly well. Literally no problems that weren't caused by me being a dumbass. In short, I thought I had a fep leak and removed the vat and ran the screen to see if there was resin I could bake on the screen and peel, but had the build plate still attached and it was still wet with resin, so guess what cured to the build plate and had to be scraped off and hit with a metal polisher? It taught me that resin cures REAL FAST. It also taught me I was an idiot. Printer was fine.
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Dec 8, 2021 21:30
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Clogs and feeding issues can be intermittent like that - say for example your temperature is just a tiny bit low, all you need is a breeze just at the point you start printing an outside wall and that can bring the temp down enough to make the back-pressure too much for the extruder to handle, or a poorly-routed tube that kinks when the head does a certain sequence of moves, or a nozzle not quite tight enough to get constant temperature transfer, or a combination of all of those things - that's you you do the basic, simple checks first. I'd normally say just bump the temp up 10 degrees and go again but as you say it's happening on bigger prints you might as well do the normal servicing routine first *and* bump the temp up just to be on the safe side. I did a "cold pull" on it per the prusa website's directions then recalibrated XYZ, and gave the outside of the nozzle a little scrubby scrub with a brass brush. I also found the tension screw was set too far in. It still had a hiccup about 2/3 through, but recovered with a bit of extra pressure on the filament. I'm running one unattended now so we'll see if it fails, but it looks like we're moving in the right direction and I'll take it apart more fully if the failures persist. Thanks again!
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Dec 8, 2021 21:33
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 I managed to get my variance down half a layer thickness on my v0, it's getting there. https://i.imgur.com/kPhy4vs.gifv Love this speedy guy
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Dec 8, 2021 23:35
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https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4694654 Fun little thing I found on thingiverse - a gift card holder that you have to solve a maze to open. Works pretty well even with cheap crappy filament and fast printing, and can even be personalised with the customiser on the website (or with the SCAD file the creator included). I find it works perfectly well (although not as satisfyingly) without the slider, which saves a fair bit of post-processing. Currently whipping up a big batch of them in suitably festive red - thought I'd let you know now before I get stabbed on Christmas day by my family for making them work for the lovely gift cards I've given them all.
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Dec 9, 2021 00:17
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Tea Bone posted:I'm looking at getting my first resin printer I have a Saturn and have printed many a wargaming miniature off of it with no issues whatsoever in terms of quality. No experience with the Mars 3, but I've heard a few grumblings about it having a wobbly Z axis z which would definitely impact print quality (as well as lead to potential resin spills, I would imagine).
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Dec 9, 2021 00:43
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goddamnedtwisto posted:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4694654 There's also this if you prefer cold hard cash https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:201097
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Dec 9, 2021 01:14
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BMan posted:There's also this if you prefer cold hard cash Awesome, might have to do one of those for the print-only voucher my niece insisted on (although my first instinct was to actually 3D print a credit-card size thing with the number embossed on it, because I don't actually have a working 2D printer right now)
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Dec 9, 2021 01:22
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 I've had my Ender 3 for a few months now and have liked it so far. Today I noticed the bottom layer (against the glass bed) looks a bit squiggley. Should I be trying to get my nozzle a bit closer to flatten it out, or is this about right?
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Dec 9, 2021 01:23
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Looks a touch high to me. Not too far off though.
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Dec 9, 2021 01:53
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Hmm. bring the printer down for a tune up and replacement shroud and fans, or start a 24 print ? we all know the answer
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Dec 9, 2021 04:26
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Tea Bone posted:I'm looking at getting my first resin printer I print on Mars 2 Pros, Mars 3, and Mono X, but have used Saturns extensively as well. I fully believe 99.9% of people who say "X is better than Y" when it comes to resin printing are not coming up with proper scientific tests. I did a whole series of tests recently on my Mars 2, Mars 3, and Mono X where each machine had a brand new FEP, same resin, same printing temperatures, and same miniatures to print. I accidentally screwed up on the first print and got them mixed up before I could label which came from which printer. I have professional macro photography gear that is capable of super close images and I was unable to detect any real differences between the different prints.
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Dec 9, 2021 06:21
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Look at this moron putting this poo poo up for uninformed people to see and think wow aerosolising UV resin with no PPE gives amazing results! https://youtu.be/OziH3Y2ySNo He was deleting comments from anyone pointing out how dangerous this is, and now has that single comment on the video which is is pretty laughable and does not in any way convey the danger of what he’s showing in the vid.
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Dec 9, 2021 07:41
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Roundboy posted:Hmm. bring the printer down for a tune up and replacement shroud and fans, or start a 24 print ? You'll end up accepting the parts, build the Voron, run off your first prints, and immediately prepare a list of parts you'll reprint on the Voron.
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Dec 9, 2021 08:17
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Look at this moron putting this poo poo up for uninformed people to see and think wow aerosolising UV resin with no PPE gives amazing results! Uuuuuhhhhh. UUUUUUUUUUHHHHHHH. What's the best way to report the video? Dangerous/harmful? Someone's gonna get all the cancer from doing that BS, and its not going to be that jackass.
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Dec 9, 2021 08:21
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Ah, but he's wearing gloves when cleaning it because alcohol is dangerous.
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Dec 9, 2021 08:32
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Bondematt posted:Uuuuuhhhhh. Report > Harmful or dangerous acts > Other dangerous acts > Details (with an option to timestamp the specific spot for a dangerous act). I'm trying to decide whether I want to spend the time timestamping every single time he does something stupid in the video and I'm leaning towards just hoping more than one of us report the fucker.
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Dec 9, 2021 12:10
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Hekk posted:I just bought a Saturn coming from fdm printer. I am still getting it dialed in and there is a learning curve to printing with resin (don’t ruin your fep on your third print by gouging the poo poo out of it trying to scrape off a failed print). However the detail in resin prints is night and day difference. It’s been great and I plan on printing a ton of miniatures and DnD stuff with my son over this Christmas. Sydney Bottocks posted:I have a Saturn and have printed many a wargaming miniature off of it with no issues whatsoever in terms of quality. No experience with the Mars 3, but I've heard a few grumblings about it having a wobbly Z axis z which would definitely impact print quality (as well as lead to potential resin spills, I would imagine). Thanks, looks like I'm going to go for the Saturn then.
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Dec 9, 2021 12:27
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snail posted:You'll end up accepting the parts, build the Voron, run off your first prints, and immediately prepare a list of parts you'll reprint on the Voron. Actually whoops I meant to say 24 hour print, which dropped to 20 with infill changes My 2.4 pif queue is dropping like a rock so I feel I need to get solid on what other stuff I am ordering. It's not real until parts start coming in EDIT: 6 hours in and i come down to spaghetti. But looking at the slicing it looks like its just support stuff that went wonky and I really didnt need it on that side. I was just lazy to block it out. Continuing the print Roundboy fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Dec 9, 2021 |
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Dec 9, 2021 14:17
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Look at this moron putting this poo poo up for uninformed people to see and think wow aerosolising UV resin with no PPE gives amazing results! YouTube jackass posted:I tried to upload an additional video at the beginning of this one to explain that and apparently I can't. Accept my apologies that I didn't clarify that in the original video. man, its a real shame you can't take down YouTube videos and upload new new ones, huh? 
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Dec 9, 2021 15:01
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4:13 he does have a disclaimer to do it in a well ventilated area with a respirator an gloves. And then does none of those things.
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Dec 9, 2021 15:07
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How "safe" is 99% IPA that's been used to clean resin? Is it an "Oh poo poo clean it asap" thing if you splash some on your arm or workarea, or is it more of a "finish what you're doing and wash your arm/workstation after"?
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Dec 9, 2021 16:34
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Randalor posted:How "safe" is 99% IPA that's been used to clean resin? Is it an "Oh poo poo clean it asap" thing if you splash some on your arm or workarea, or is it more of a "finish what you're doing and wash your arm/workstation after"? I'm not a chemist, but I can tell you that I break out in hives wherever I get the tiniest drop of resin IPA on my skin, so I'm assuming it's pretty bad.
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Dec 9, 2021 16:52
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Look at this moron putting this poo poo up for uninformed people to see and think wow aerosolising UV resin with no PPE gives amazing results! Alright. I'm convinced. Resin printers and resin shouldn't be available to the general public. I can give up my cheap as hell minis.
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Dec 9, 2021 17:00
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Look at this moron putting this poo poo up for uninformed people to see and think wow aerosolising UV resin with no PPE gives amazing results! I watched that video not too long ago, it was literally horror movie-levels of me increasingly going "no, oh no, don't do that you loving idiot  " when I saw it.
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Dec 9, 2021 17:09
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Paradoxish posted:Alright. I'm convinced. Resin printers and resin shouldn't be available to the general public. I can give up my cheap as hell minis. What do you mean? How bad could it... I'm sorry, the video is titled what? I didn't even watch it, just loaded to video to see the title and already I'm recoiling in terror.
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Dec 9, 2021 17:16
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What is the limit or relationship between a model and a printers quality? I printed a model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38863 at 'normal' size of 2" maybe and its perfectly fine. Sized in Cura direct.  Because I can, I scaled it up as big as i could to fit my bed size, so overall its printed well but i want to understand if what I am seeing is slicer vs printer vs just the model itself. As I understand it it was just a blender model made into an STL file so its not optimized and making it larger exacerbates small curves not smooth , etc I think this is maybe the slicer not giving proper movements for curves? Or the resolution of the curve in the model is so low it shows t scaled up   This seems more printer tuning vs the others :  I'm okay with post processing, I just want to know what i can realistically handle before hand
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Dec 9, 2021 21:17
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The little zits and ripples are printer tuning issues. The larger polygonal grid across the entire model is the actual polygon mesh of the STL, which you correctly note is a little bit too low-res for a model of that size. It's a modeling issue, not a slicer thing. There isn't a really good way of getting rid of that polygon mesh other than rebuilding it at higher resolution. You can try running a subdivide algorithm on it in blender, which will smooth out the edges, but may also lose detail or cause distortions in some areas. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Dec 9, 2021 |
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Dec 9, 2021 21:26
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Look at this moron putting this poo poo up for uninformed people to see and think wow aerosolising UV resin with no PPE gives amazing results! Completely off topic, but does anyone know what giant UV light he's using in this video? I am looking for one like that.
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Dec 9, 2021 21:31
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What does resin mist actually do to you anyway? Everyone acts like it's plutonium but what's the deal? I know it sensitizes you to resin, I'm assuming the standard wrecked kidneys and cancer?
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Dec 9, 2021 21:46
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InternetJunky posted:Subscribed! Looking forward to watching the deterioration of his brain as the resin mist works its way through his system. It's one of these - I have this model. There are a ton of different variations out there though. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X5VT56K/ It's great for curing shop towels, supports, and other waste material.
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Dec 9, 2021 22:01
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Wang Commander posted:What does resin mist actually do to you anyway? Everyone acts like it's plutonium but what's the deal? I know it sensitizes you to resin, I'm assuming the standard wrecked kidneys and cancer? UV resin cures under daylight conditions, right? Consider that your skin does not 100% block UV radiation and how thin your nose tissues are. Now imagine resin curing on the mucus membranes in your nose and the toxic outgassing of the curing process going directly into your bloodstream. Or doing this with aerosolized droplets on your eyes because you aren't wearing eye protection. YouTube guy is in for a bad time if he does that too much.
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Dec 9, 2021 22:17
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Wang Commander posted:What does resin mist actually do to you anyway? Everyone acts like it's plutonium but what's the deal? I know it sensitizes you to resin, I'm assuming the standard wrecked kidneys and cancer? For me, even with PPE, it made me breakout pretty good for a couple days.
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Dec 9, 2021 22:18
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