|
I’m pretty sure that’s a Dracaena thalioides.
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2021 05:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 06:11 |
|
|
Dang It Bhabhi! posted:I’m pretty sure that’s a Dracaena thalioides.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2021 15:11
|
|
|
We transferred our son to the new tank today 
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 04:41
|
|
|
Both your large adult son and his pothos are lovely
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 04:59
|
|
|
Hello, does anyone know what these spots on the leaves of my ficus are? They look like salt crystals, and can be just brushed off. The plant seems healthy, but I'm not sure if these are normal or not.  
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 09:01
|
|
|
Yoruichi posted:Hello, does anyone know what these spots on the leaves of my ficus are? They look like salt crystals, and can be just brushed off. The plant seems healthy, but I'm not sure if these are normal or not. Do you have hard water/does it get misted? Kind of hard to tell from the pictures, but it may just be mineral buildup. pokie posted:We transferred our son to the new tank today
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 14:24
|
|
|
Yall for funsies I bought a heat mat and sowed some cactus seeds (trichocereus hybrids) and they have begun sprouting! This is the first time I've tried something like this so I am relieved I didn't completely gently caress it up. Damp soil mix from the store with some vermiculite on top:
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 17:22
|
|
|
Wallet posted:Do you have hard water/does it get misted? Kind of hard to tell from the pictures, but it may just be mineral buildup. Anolis Barbatus or Cuban False Chamelon. They eat snails in the wild, hence the massive jaw. Here's a video about them that convinced me to get one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-i6gtiiYwSs
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 17:57
|
|
|
My big fat Adenium is making leaves   Was worried he might sleep for a long time.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 18:09
|
|
|
Yoruichi posted:Hello, does anyone know what these spots on the leaves of my ficus are? They look like salt crystals, and can be just brushed off. The plant seems healthy, but I'm not sure if these are normal or not. Sweet potato plants do this too and it's considered benign-- basically just the plant secreting stuff it doesn't want, but not indicative of it being unhealthy. Wikipedia has an image of a ficus doing it that looks just like yours, so it must be common enough: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ficus_benjamina_secreting_minerals_through_leaf_glands.png I found an article about rubber plants doing it too: https://greenexperimentcompany.com/white-spots-on-rubber-plant/. They're thought to be either benign or helpful to the plant.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 18:35
|
|
|
My lemon tree keeps dropping leaves  this is the only citrus plant I’ve ever owned that has been sickly since day one. So frustrating.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 19:07
|
|
|
Yoruichi posted:Hello, does anyone know what these spots on the leaves of my ficus are? They look like salt crystals, and can be just brushed off. The plant seems healthy, but I'm not sure if these are normal or not. Your plant reached puberty and is jacking it as hard as it can.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2021 19:11
|
|
|
Jessica Lucas writes for Input Magazine that "the online plant community has a hoarding problem."quote:“I’ve definitely needed to get rid of stuff because it got to be too much,” says the 25-year-old De La Paz, who lives in Missouri and owns over 100 plants, including prayer plants, snake plants, and a monstera vine that towers over her. The influencer noticed her collection, which she spends most of her time caring for and filming, had spiraled out of control at the start of 2020. quote:According to the U.S. Census Bureau, Americans spent 18.7 percent more on gardening-related items in 2020 than they did in 2019 — an increase of $8.5 billion. quote:“Auctions on Facebook work on the basis of who can get there the fastest,” she says. “When I first started using them, I purchased plants that I didn’t really want, because it was exciting to win. It’s like gambling.” She believes the speed of the highly competitive auctions makes things worse. “You have to immediately commit without having any thought, and you’re unable to make a critical decision,” she explains. “You can buy the wrong plant because it all happens so fast.” (In addition, some online retailers have shifted toward a hypebeast-style “drop” culture.) Not my 30 monsteras and 15 pothos... how will you ever be able to choose between them..... I guess it really is an unwise spending decision to get the same 10 normie plants when you could just get cuttings from an acquaintance, unlike me who only ever smartly spends an appropriate and reasonable amount on finicky species orchids.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2021 04:10
|
|
|
I have over a 100 plants, but I would hardly call it hoarding. Watering stuff once a week isn't remotely a burden.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2021 05:38
|
|
|
it's never hoarding from the inside
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2021 06:01
|
|
|
Next thing they will call hoarding is having a hobby farm.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2021 07:50
|
|
|
it’s not hoarding if you keep telling yourself you’re gonna start a YouTube channel and every new interesting phenotype of plant is a video topic
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2021 08:09
|
|
|
I’m planting out 1/2 acre of hazelnut trees as a start to a hobby orchard in the Pacific Northwest. I need help with irrigation design. Anybody here knowledgable about that? Or know someone who is? I’m happy to pay for professional assistance. PM me your rates!
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 22:46
|
|
|
Run a mainline across the front of the plot with valves at each row, then run drip line the length of each row with an emitter at the base of each tree. Emitter will depend on the watering requirements for hazelnut. We just finished setting up a big plot of white pine with this exact setup and it works great.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 22:58
|
|
|
Bi-la kaifa posted:Run a mainline across the front of the plot with valves at each row, then run drip line the length of each row with an emitter at the base of each tree. Emitter will depend on the watering requirements for hazelnut. We just finished setting up a big plot of white pine with this exact setup and it works great. I've only done this stuff for gardens and lawns, but it's super easy to set up drip lines and poo poo, and the controllers are all pretty simple to program. I'd be paying sewer charges out the rear end if my sprinklers/irrigation wasn't on its own meter, so it may be worth getting another water line/meter put in depending on where you live/etc.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 23:12
|
|
|
LibCrusher posted:I’m planting out 1/2 acre of hazelnut trees as a start to a hobby orchard in the Pacific Northwest. I need help with irrigation design. Anybody here knowledgable about that? Or know someone who is? I’m happy to pay for professional assistance. PM me your rates! Better start calling them filbert trees or your gonna get some grief! If you're in Oregon at least...
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2021 07:59
|
|
|
LibCrusher posted:I’m planting out 1/2 acre of hazelnut trees as a start to a hobby orchard in the Pacific Northwest. I need help with irrigation design. Anybody here knowledgable about that? Or know someone who is? I’m happy to pay for professional assistance. PM me your rates! I know that you should get a few trees innoculated with truffle spores. https://orchardpeople.com/hazelnut-trees-and-truffles/
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2021 08:38
|
|
|
Bi-la kaifa posted:Run a mainline across the front of the plot with valves at each row, then run drip line the length of each row with an emitter at the base of each tree. Emitter will depend on the watering requirements for hazelnut. We just finished setting up a big plot of white pine with this exact setup and it works great. The problem is I live 1000 miles away from the plot, and it doesn’t have running water. I’ll be buying tanks, running the lines off them, and trying to get it to work automatically with like 0% chance of failure.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2022 19:56
|
|
|
Tell us more about the site! Are you planning on using rainwater, a local source, or are you trucking in water? Setup would depend on the source but you're probably going to want to rely on gravity, and that won't change much in the way you configure the irrigation itself, just where you put the source, how you're collecting, etc. That being said it worries me that you want a 100% success rate when you're trying to run it remotely in the boonies. You could probably go hogwild and setup wireless moisture meters and an Argus system to monitor it all but that's gonna cost what a half acre would 1000 miles closer.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2022 21:11
|
|
|
The site is a 5-acre parcel in Washington with 2.5 acres cleared and 2.5 acres forested. The cleared portion is comprised of a hilltop and south facing slope of a hill. The trees will be planted on the south facing slope. I intend to buy 2-4 275-gallon IBC totes fitted with 3/4" hose adapters. They'll be filled with clean, non-potable water, trucked in at $.1/gal + $95 service fee. They will all feed into a single 3/4" outlet. From there, I will run two 1/2" irrigation tubes through the middle of my 4x8 orchard plot, with 1/4" lines run to just upslope of each tree. The 1/2" lines will be plugged at the ends of the run. The 1/4" lines will be fitted with either .5 or 1gph pressure compensating drip heads. Based on how hot and dry the summers have been lately, I want the irrigation to run every 2 weeks, starting ~15 May. I do not yet know of any products that support this watering schedule, so if you know of an irrigation controller that can accomplish this, I'd appreciate it. This is the quick and dirty of the plan. I have several questions. 1. Will the "pressure compensating" drippers be able to ACTUALLY handle the pressure difference between the trees at the top and the trees at the bottom? The ones at the top will only be ~20' below the water tanks, and the ones at the bottom roughly 120'. Thats a huge gradient! Should I use .5gph emitters on the bottom, and 1 or 2gph emitters at the top? What are the BEST emitters on the market? 2. I'll be performing the install over about 6 days in February, but I don't want the valves to open until mid-may. To that end, I either need a battery/solar powered irrigation timer with a full calendar function, or one controlled over wifi. If I have to get one controlled by wifi, I'll need to figure out how to get internet to the site, likely using a solar panel and a LTE-wifi puck. That option seems sub-optimal because it would involve a new monthly bill and hundreds of dollars of electronics that *cant* fail despite being left out in a field all year. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2022 22:44
|
|
|
For the emitters, I think there's a limit on what they can handle, so the best way to avoid that is to put a limiter where you go from 3/4 to 1/2. For the difference after that I'm not sure... My gut says as long as it stays below 25psi and above 15 the difference will be negligible. If you put a 15psi limiter at the top and somehow it's more than 25 psi at the bottom you'll have to splice another limiter halfway or something creative. For controls you just need to ask yourself how comfortable you are with leaving it and trusting whatever power source you figure out. Wifi has the added benefit of piece of mind that it's still working when you're not there, but in terms of price you get what you pay for. I've never heard of a full year timer like the one you described. What you might want to look into is a moisture meter or rain sensor, hydrometer whatever. Something that can tell the valves to open during the 5 months of drought we get every year now, instead of a guess with a date and time.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2022 23:24
|
|
|
so it sounds like, in line from the tanks, I'll need: four 2" to 3/4 adapter, three 3/4" Y adapters, a filter, a pressure regulator, a timer/controller, a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter, a 1/2" Y, and all the 1/4" tubing and adapters and emitters. I was looking at this unit: https://www.digcorp.com/homeowner-drip-irrigation-products/evo-100-waterproof-solar-powered-digital-hose-end-timer-tap-timer/ which looks like it can do 15-day watering cycles and is solar powered. Is there any (easy) way to calculate water pressure over certain slopes/distances? Sounds like it would be a pain...
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 00:39
|
|
|
Not really. You can get a meter to screw in at the end of a 3/4 line. When you're out there bring extra hose and run it down the hill to test. Field work is never as perfect as at home calculations anyways
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 00:59
|
|
|
Bi-la kaifa posted:Not really. You can get a meter to screw in at the end of a 3/4 line. When you're out there bring extra hose and run it down the hill to test. Field work is never as perfect as at home calculations anyways Ok, can do. At least all this poo poo I have to buy is a business write off. I need to find very high quality pressure compensating drippers that activate at low PSI…
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 02:44
|
|
|
LibCrusher posted:Ok, can do. At least all this poo poo I have to buy is a business write off. I need to find very high quality pressure compensating drippers that activate at low PSI… You should look into what they use in all the orchards on the east side of the Cascades for the drippers, but I think they just run power out for their pumps. I’d definitely look into grower orgs too to see if they have grower resources for things like this. I know there are some for the hop growers so I wouldn’t be surprised if there were some orchard resources there or at the universities.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 03:05
|
|
|
Yeah I figure they’re using pumped water. My rinkydink little orchard would prolly make them laugh. OK. Rate my fit. Each IBC tote will be placed on a pallet and connected via female-female 3/4” hose to a 4 port orbit hose manifold. From there, I’ll use a male to male adapter to connect it to the timer, then the filter, possibly with hose savers between them. Past the filter, I’ll use a 3/4”hose->1/2” irrigation tube adapter, then a short length of 1/2” irrigation hose to get downhill to the half acre. There I use a Y splitter to run the two irrigation hoses down ~100’ and cap them with perma-locs. Then I use a barbed 1/4” coupling to run just uphill from each tree. Lines staked with 6” plastic stakes. Then I put a Toro pressure compensating 1gph emitter at the end of each line. Straightforward but it’s gonna take a whole weekend to do this. As for the watering schedule, I’ve decided on 1hr/week, hopefully starting around 15 May. Possibly 1.5hr/10 days. Hopefully that’s enough and there’s not another 90 day stretch with no rain. As for timers, I’ll either go with the Claber Tempo Hybrid Solar, which maxes out at weekly, or the Dig evo100 which can do every 10 days, and also has a rain delay feature that lasts up to 99 days. So hopefully I can program it in late feb and leave it on rain delay till may. Kinda sucks to trust a $50 piece of equipment with $800 worth of trees but waddayagannado?  LibCrusher fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Jan 2, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 04:16
|
|
|
has anybody tried any of the $35-60 indoor automatic irrigation dealies on Amazon/elsewhere? I’d like to get one for my mom
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 05:54
|
|
|
Ok Comboomer posted:has anybody tried any of the $35-60 indoor automatic irrigation dealies on Amazon/elsewhere? I read a lot of reviews for those types of products initially and got scared off by too many reports of failures. If someone has to come check on the automated system while I'm on vacation, it's defeated the whole point. I ended up going with Blumat Classics because they're passive systems with nothing to really fail. Water siphons very slowly constantly from whatever reservoir into the plant. Keep the reservoir full and watering is taken care of. For vacation, those can be 5gal buckets and you're good for months. https://www.amazon.com/Blumat-Classic-Automatic-Watering-Stakes/dp/B0001IOZ98/ https://www.amazon.com/Blumat-10520-Automatic-Watering-X-Large/dp/B008SR2VTK/ At this point I have 1-2 per plant and use them permanently on anything that isn't a succulent. The marketing about "no more overwatering" and adaptive flow rates are largely untrue. You can run them from a large bucket into a small container and it will happily fill that small container until it overflows, so you can definitely overwater, and all pots need drainage. The way to regulate is to change the relative heights of the plant vs the water reservoir. Ideally if you're going on vacation, you set this up a couple weeks before. Roughly, small plants in 4-6in pots get one "classic" and a vase of water one shelf below them. Medium plants 8-10" get one "classic" and a vase at their level. 12" pots get one XL or 2 small and a vase at their level or above. Large plants in 12-20" pots get 2 XL and the vase may or may not be elevated. There's some adjustment here for individual plants; thirsty ones like ferns follow rules for 1 size up. It's a bit of a pain to set up and adjust them all to equilibrium, but once you get it going, big enough reservoirs can happily last you a month or more without attention. I've been doing this since May 2021 x 30+ and haven't had a "failure" where one just stops working suddenly. There are a bunch of much cheaper knockoffs on Amazon but the reviews of them randomly failing have scared me off. If your mom has a handful of plants and wants to go on vacation for a few weeks, this + a 5gal bucket will take care of it nicely.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 17:02
|
|
|
Lakitu7 posted:I read a lot of reviews for those types of products initially and got scared off by too many reports of failures. If someone has to come check on the automated system while I'm on vacation, it's defeated the whole point. I ended up going with Blumat Classics because they're passive systems with nothing to really fail. Water siphons very slowly constantly from whatever reservoir into the plant. Keep the reservoir full and watering is taken care of. For vacation, those can be 5gal buckets and you're good for months. gently caress yeah thanks! Have some chill videos of this affable stoner I recently discovered getting hype about sago palms and poo poo. I like his van and his attitude: https://youtu.be/4sLKnUfSdBA https://youtu.be/K1CqIcQSxEo
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 17:12
|
|
|
LibCrusher posted:1. Will the "pressure compensating" drippers be able to ACTUALLY handle the pressure difference between the trees at the top and the trees at the bottom? The ones at the top will only be ~20' below the water tanks, and the ones at the bottom roughly 120'. Thats a huge gradient! Should I use .5gph emitters on the bottom, and 1 or 2gph emitters at the top? What are the BEST emitters on the market? That’s like three atmospheres, so mid forties PSI. There are emitters that can handle this with minimal flow rate deviance, provided the pressure at the top of the slope is on the low end. Here’s a random manufacturer’s chart to illustrate that. I’m not saying you should buy from Rainbird. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 17:20
|
|
|
Ok Comboomer posted:Have some chill videos of this affable stoner I recently discovered getting hype about sago palms and poo poo. I like his van and his attitude: This guy's fun, but here in Minnesota there's not a lot of Sagos on the side of the road. People just throw away hostas and daylilies; basically all suburban landscaping here is based on hostas, hydrangeas, and daylilies. For better or for worse, Home Depot likes to bring about 50+ palm trees of various kinds here in the spring. I don't just mean houseplant Sagos and Majestys falsely marketed as houseplants but like 10gal King and Queen palms that can't live outdoors here in zone 4a and sure can't live indoors either, so I guess people just buy them to sit on their deck for mid-summer until they die  . It's absurd and maddening to me. My Home Depot Sago is still sitting in my living room looking 100% identical to that photo I posted last month. Hopefully in like 5mo it'll be warm enough that I can put it outside for a while and see it actually grow a little but for now it seems to be dormant and might as well be artificial. My Bamboo Palm is doing well in the same environment and sending up new shoots. I added a Kentia last week that's doing fine but still adjusting. I'll wait until spring to transplant that one.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 17:38
|
|
|
Platystemon posted:That’s like three atmospheres, so mid forties PSI. Yeah I ended up ordering these Toro PC drippers with a ~5psi activation. The filter will drop pressure by ~2.5psi so hopefully gravity produces at least like… 8psi at the top. I found a calc online that says water should build about 4psi/10ft drop so we shall see.  What do y’all think about the watering schedule? Should I do longer sessions at 10 days? Or 1gal/week? I really want the tanks and schedule to last through July and august. Also can anyone think of another forum or group I could ask about these specifics?
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 18:43
|
|
|
LibCrusher posted:Yeah I ended up ordering these Toro PC drippers with a ~5psi activation. The filter will drop pressure by ~2.5psi so hopefully gravity produces at least like… 8psi at the top. I found a calc online that says water should build about 4psi/10ft drop so we shall see. Other than looking at the stuff WSU puts out (which is excellent!) you're going to have to experiment to figure out your particular microclimate and the needs of your particular trees, also weather. I know my house is around 5 degrees warmer in the summer and cooler in the winter due to being inland a bit for instance. I did some quick searches on WSU Extension but I'm only finding stuff on walnuts. And then you have to factor in what kind of soil you have, how you plan on amending it, and how well it retains water now and in the future. Maybe it would be useful to get some moisture meters or get used to sticking your fingers in the dirt until you have a better idea how your site will work.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 18:56
|
|
|
The soil is “silty clay loam” according to USGS which is rated as “ok” for hazelnut growing. At each hole I mix in store bought soil, mycorrhizal, and throw some wood ash around to keep the pH low. Then I spray deer repellant, and hang a hotel soap on each tree (tip from my nursery). The soil dries completely in the summer down to at least a foot. There are lots of earthworms when it’s moist. The spot does get more direct sun than average, due to the south facing slope.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 19:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 06:11 |
|
|
LibCrusher posted:The soil is “silty clay loam” according to USGS which is rated as “ok” for hazelnut growing. At each hole I mix in store bought soil, mycorrhizal, and throw some wood ash around to keep the pH low. Then I spray deer repellant, and hang a hotel soap on each tree (tip from my nursery). The soil dries completely in the summer down to at least a foot. There are lots of earthworms when it’s moist. My gut says you're going to need more water during the summer until you can better amend the soil through repeated mulching and your trees start to develop a real canopy. Overall variance will be higher as well until your trees are better established. It's a really interesting project though! Can you talk about how you're picking your hazelnut cultivars, or why hazelnuts in the first place?
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 19:17
|
|