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Hadlock posted:Have you pulled out the dishwasher and physically measured the cavity? There's a non zero chance the carpenter wasn't a complete idiot and gave you a 24 ¼" space, but just added some extra superficial trim around the outside to hide the gap created by the tiny dishwasher Nah, I have never moved one of these before. That's a good idea.
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Jan 1, 2022 09:27
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On a side note, my fridge cavity is approximately ½" too short to fit a full size American modern style fridge in our cavity, my guess is that if I were to pull up the ½" tile underneath it, and place it directly on the concrete underfloor, it'd fit ok, but don't want to deal with that. This is a height issue though, not a width one
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Jan 1, 2022 23:16
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In my first few weeks of new home ownership: 1. Fixed a leak under our sink. 2. Connected our refrigerator's ice maker up to the water supply. For some reason it was disconnected. Probably because it's going to flood the house. A question: during our home inspection the inspector said the water pressure in our house was too high. Is this something I can fix/do myself easily? Garage guy said he's starting Monday/Tuesday. 
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Jan 1, 2022 23:36
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Residency Evil posted:In my first few weeks of new home ownership: I would pick up a $10 water gauge that screws onto an external silcock and test it yourself. Let the water run for 30 seconds before you screw it on to test the water. This will relieve any built up pressure from hot water expanding if you don't have an expansion tank or it's bad. If the reading actually is too high (>80 PSI) then you will need a water pressure regulator installed which is probably a job for a pro, albeit it relatively straight forward. If the pressure reading comes back fine and you don't have an expansion tank I would recommend installing one and calibrating it appropriately. If you currently have one, I would verify that the bladder is still intact and it does not need to be replaced.
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Jan 1, 2022 23:49
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Upgrade posted:What’s a typical cost to switch from a gas tank to gas tankless? With the caveats that this was almost a decade ago, and the gas line in my utility closet was already big enough to handle the upsized demand (only 120k BTUs) I paid about $2000 for the heater, replacement venting through the roof and labor to install it. Took half a day, and the water heater itself was about $600 of that.
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Jan 2, 2022 00:03
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SpartanIvy posted:I would pick up a $10 water gauge that screws onto an external silcock and test it yourself. Let the water run for 30 seconds before you screw it on to test the water. This will relieve any built up pressure from hot water expanding if you don't have an expansion tank or it's bad. If the reading actually is too high (>80 PSI) then you will need a water pressure regulator installed which is probably a job for a pro, albeit it relatively straight forward. Thanks! iirc the inspector said it's something like 110 psi or something (I need to look through the notes). Is a pressure regulator not something that's typically installed in most houses?
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Jan 2, 2022 00:07
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Residency Evil posted:Thanks! iirc the inspector said it's something like 110 psi or something (I need to look through the notes). Is a pressure regulator not something that's typically installed in most houses? I believe in some regions that they are very common but around me they are the exception.
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Jan 2, 2022 00:16
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Residency Evil posted:Thanks! iirc the inspector said it's something like 110 psi or something (I need to look through the notes). Is a pressure regulator not something that's typically installed in most houses? That's a lot. No, they aren't typically installed unless you have a high supply pressure like that. Chances are near 100% that you have one installed already (these things don't just happen overnight) and it's failed. Most of them are rebuildable/require no soldering things on/off. If you're really lucky there is an easily accessible shut-off on the supply side of it. Time to go looking for feeds/shutoffs/etc 
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Jan 2, 2022 00:32
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Both of my houses here in TX have had pressure regulators on the incoming water line. I think mine is set to 65psi right now. You def don’t want 110 psi water coming into the house. I had the cheap plastic builder grade one replaced when my irrigation system was being installed. Put in a nice solid brass unit which shouldn’t fail in short period of time
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Jan 2, 2022 00:57
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skipdogg posted:You def don’t want 110 psi water coming into the house.
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Jan 2, 2022 01:01
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stealie72 posted:Would probably want to take a couple showers in that glorious pressure before fixing it. But that opens the possibility of normal pressure never being enough and slowly going insane. This is what I'm afraid of. The previous owner redid all of the bathrooms as part of a renovation and the pressure is lacking compared to the black market elephant shower nozzle I'm used to. 
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Jan 2, 2022 01:07
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Residency Evil posted:This is what I'm afraid of. The previous owner redid all of the bathrooms as part of a renovation and the pressure is lacking compared to the black market elephant shower nozzle I'm used to. It's unlikely dropping your pater pressure to a residential-safe (for you plumbing fixtures) level will change that much, because they probably just have restrictors in them. You know what to do........
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Jan 2, 2022 01:14
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I've got 75 PSI water pressure and removed the restrictor from my dual shower head setup and it blasts water like a waterfall. It is pure loving bliss.
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Jan 2, 2022 02:05
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I bought a shower head from Amazon a few months ago that advertised an easily removable restrictor, but I put it back in after one shower because while glorious is felt like a truly irresponsible amount of water. Particularly since I've got a septic tank that has been prone to backing up the last two years due to the ground just being too wet for the drain field to work. I've actually got someone coming to pump it Wednesday because there's currently turds floating in my garden. Is anyone familiar with the phenomenon? I want to ask if a new drain field will help the situation (afaik it's from 1980), but I don't want the company to just see dollar signs and put it in and then I've still got the same problem because they've built up all the swamps that used to be around me and now there's nowhere for all the rain to go.
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Jan 2, 2022 02:07
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What type of system do you have in place now? I'm assuming it's just a standard leaching bed. Raised beds are an option which can help with soggy soils, but your best bet is to get someone local who knows the area and can design a system that meets local codes and your needs. You can probably find out who developers are using in your area for the septic engineering side of things and reach out to them, they might be willing to do an investigation. Of course, if your system is from 1980, you're on borrowed time at this point. At least around here, septic systems usually last for ~25-30 years (though I know of some over 50 and a neighbour had theirs fail at 7), so I probably wouldn't be too worried about having a few companies come out and quote you the work they think needs to be done. Depending on the system, you may be able to re-use the tank and just replace the bed, though that will depend on local codes. Make sure the quotes you receive include all the permitting / engineering work required. I know when the previous owners replaced the septic here, they switched to a raised bed system because they didn't want to dig up the old bed - because if they dig up the contaminated soil, they have to dispose of it appropriately, which is lots of 
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Jan 2, 2022 03:47
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Shroomie posted:I've actually got someone coming to pump it Wednesday because there's currently turds floating in my garden. If this is what is literally happening you have a massive, massive breach of your settling box and potentially whatever kind of leech field or tanks you have downstream of it. There's almost no sense in even guessing at what could be wrong at this point because you absolutely need someone to pump the box and then inspect it as step 1. There will definitely be more steps after that, as there is no way a proper system could ever allow this to happen. You would have a backup in the house first. So something is very, very not right. If it's an old school pre-inspection system the best case scenario is that it has a "bypass" (totally not allowed now) and the box is clogged so it's free flowing above ground.
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Jan 2, 2022 05:44
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Motronic posted:If this is what is literally happening you have a massive, massive breach of your settling box and potentially whatever kind of leech field or tanks you have downstream of it. It's because I took the cap off to relieve the pressure because I'd rather have the turds in my yard than in my shower. Edit: Last year when it backed up the guy sucked it all out and at the end he was like "look, you can see water flowing back into the tank from your drain field. It will probably fill up again and you can pay me another $300 to suck the water out or you can just wait for the ground to dry out". Sure enough it filled back up and I just had to leave the clean out cap off for a week or two for the water table to go down. I was fine with it being a once every decade when it gets extra rainy thing, but now that it's happened two years in a row I'd like to explore other options. Shroomie fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Jan 2, 2022 |
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Jan 2, 2022 06:17
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Shroomie posted:It's because I took the cap off to relieve the pressure because I'd rather have the turds in my yard than in my shower. So your leech field is blown. This is a $15k problem if your soil is good and a $30k+ problem if it's not. Also, don't take the top of the box off and let raw sewage flow into your yard. That's disgusting, unhygienic and a disease vector. Seriously. Come on now.
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Jan 2, 2022 06:31
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Motronic posted:So your leech field is blown. This is a $15k problem if your soil is good and a $30k+ problem if it's not. It's not the top of the box it's just the 4" cap on the clean out between the tank and the house. I wouldn't leave a gaping death hole in my yard. And yeah it's super gross but again it's that or a shower full of sewage so I'm choosing it be an outside problem for a couple days.
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Jan 2, 2022 07:02
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Shroomie posted:It's not the top of the box it's just the 4" cap on the clean out between the tank and the house. I wouldn't leave a gaping death hole in my yard. And yeah it's super gross but again it's that or a shower full of sewage so I'm choosing it be an outside problem for a couple days. This is a distinction without a difference. Seriously, you are being amazingly gross and unhygienic, not only for yourself but you are loving the groundwater for everyone near you. Stop it. Remember how there were all those diseases in cities in the middle ages? We figured out how to stop that by not putting raw sewage above ground.
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Jan 2, 2022 07:19
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Jesus Christ. Goons shouldn’t be allowed to own houses.
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Jan 2, 2022 07:23
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would you describe your tub as containing a "fecal lasagna"
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Jan 2, 2022 07:36
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I bet you have a very green lawn
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Jan 2, 2022 08:31
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Hey Shroomie, where do you live so I can avoid the area?
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Jan 2, 2022 09:45
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I don’t want to dog pile, but when it said “Florida” in their profile… that checks out.
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Jan 2, 2022 10:26
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Motronic posted:This is a distinction without a difference. Seriously, you are being amazingly gross and unhygienic, not only for yourself but you are loving the groundwater for everyone near you. Stop it. I don't know how much y'all are making GBS threads that a little bit of overflow is sullying the groundwater for your town. I guess if you live on the goon diet of Taco Bell and Mt Dew that might be the case. I'm just doing what the dude told me to do last time while I wait for them to come in a couple days. Options are kind of limited here given that I along with half of the state have COVID right now.
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Jan 2, 2022 12:19
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House Ownership Thread: Remember how there were all those diseases in cities in the middle ages?
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Jan 2, 2022 13:07
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Holy lmao I thought they were being hyperbolic about literal turds floating in the garden. You should not do that at all, ever, jeebus.
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Jan 2, 2022 17:09
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So, our kitten is being an absolute menace, I mean more so than usual. She's been rampaging around the house looking for new tall places to achieve and new things that haven't been played with that were on the tall places. Yesterday she figured out how to get up on the fireplace mantel and start chomping on a (poisonous) bouquet of lilies that had been put up there. I moved them to a very tall pot rack above the sink, which so far she's been unable to reach. Today she found what my husband referred to as "a white thimble" that he'd put on the mantel to keep away from her. Reader, it was a knob. From knob-and-tube wiring, which this house has. We had extensive electrical work, including replacing a subpanel, done a month ago, and I'm praying this knob is from that. Praying a lot.
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Jan 2, 2022 17:30
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Motronic posted:This is a distinction without a difference. Seriously, you are being amazingly gross and unhygienic, not only for yourself but you are loving the groundwater for everyone near you. Stop it. Not to mention illegal. If the municipal/state DEP finds out, and they are allowed to inspect your property, you're in for a world of hurt. Fines, cleanup fees, and they could prevent you from occupying your house until it's fixed and inspected. Lol that anyone thinks it's okay to have human poop in their garden. Even Grover wasn't that much of a scum bag.
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Jan 2, 2022 18:15
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Sorry to distract from the hilarious biohazard chat, but I do need some help. Yesterday during very light rain there was water coming in from the top of a window. It’s definitely not a gutter failure because it’s not under the roof slope, and because it was like drizzling. I peeked from a second story window and it looks like this gap is large, and whatever adhesive is there may have failed. Not excited about every time it rains a little bit having my window frame become wet and quickly ruined. How can I fix this? 
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Jan 2, 2022 18:42
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Sorry to distract from the hilarious biohazard chat, but I do need some help. I’m not familiar with all window installation techniques, but my houses in Texas, with cement fiber siding have always had flashing (z shaped piece of metal) installed on the top of them. It goes under the siding and then over the edge of the window. Like this https://www.finehomebuilding.com/list/window-and-door-flashing-guide Is that vinyl siding you have? I’m not familiar with that so maybe window installation is different, I’m not sure why it would be though.
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Jan 2, 2022 20:42
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levolor blinds suck rear end don’t buy that garbage that is all
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Jan 3, 2022 00:01
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Upgrade posted:What’s a typical cost to switch from a gas tank to gas tankless? From what I've been able to gather,  depending on your location, existing setup, any changes needed, any additional replumbing needed, etc. We're in Seattle and have had two estimates to go from electric tank to gas tankless and vent through the wall in the $7000 range. This includes some pipe replacement as well. We were supposed to have one more estimate last week but Seattle had another snowmaggedon and the city shut down so that's postponed. Interesting note, every place we've called, the first thing they ask is "Gas or electric? Gas? Okay. We don't do electric tankless."
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Jan 3, 2022 00:37
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hobbez posted:levolor blinds suck rear end don’t buy that garbage Thanks. You're about a week too late. I just installed mine last week. What's your issue with them?
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Jan 3, 2022 00:41
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skipdogg posted:I’m not familiar with all window installation techniques, but my houses in Texas, with cement fiber siding have always had flashing (z shaped piece of metal) installed on the top of them. It goes under the siding and then over the edge of the window. Yep, that's what should be there, even with vinyl siding. But it's very often not installed. It should be possible to go back and do that, especially with vinyl siding. Or the gap can be filled up with caulk again like the original installers did. That window doesn't look quite flat/straight, so it was probably bent during transport or installation making this issue even worse, but I'd guess the caulk on every other window in the place is in similar shape/ready to fail soon.
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Jan 3, 2022 00:49
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For a 5 unit it wouldn't surprise me if you need 4 tankless units to guarantee you don't run out of hot water. Unlike a tank it's very binary for tankless. You have to multiply out the number of bathrooms plus other things that use hot water less frequently like washing machines, compare it to the coldest inlet water temperature, then run some numbers to see if it works out. If it doesn't then everyone takes cold showers when someone runs a hot load of laundry on your coldest days. I would just add a third tank if you're running out.
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Jan 3, 2022 01:37
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Motronic posted:Yep, that's what should be there, even with vinyl siding. But it's very often not installed. Thanks. I still don't have a ladder so this will be a good excuse. I'll probably just caulk it and check all the other windows if I can.
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Jan 3, 2022 02:15
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StormDrain posted:Fun update: Minor update for nobody, but I added a box in the attic to break this up. I had 5 cables going into that box and it was over full. I now have one with four and one with three, since I had to connect them somehow, but both boxes have room to breathe now. Now here's where I think I learned something. First that the attic fan was added in later and pulled off this box, but I already knew that. The surprise was a cable running from the overstuffed box to the switch wasn't the switch I thought. Despite going through the same hole in the top plate as the cable for the light, it's for the bedroom. And it's loose. And it goes through a hole in the box that some electrician just blazed through the back. Good to know sparkies in the late 70s did the same poo poo. Ya it's not that exciting but I already wrote it.
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Jan 3, 2022 03:20
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I like those kind of boring updates.
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Jan 3, 2022 03:29
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