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The steins head looks really odd. They should've at least given it a command antenna or something
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Jan 8, 2022 05:14
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It looks like they built a feddie MS then let it have a Zeon style head in toner primer colors. Still cool but round vs the square of the rest of the body. Anyone build the new Ex-S kit yet? I'm still slowly working on my Mk-IV but I need a new Ex-S and I'm gonna buy it either way, but I'm curious of the impression.
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Jan 8, 2022 05:18
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Cool, and yeah I forgot about the Stein, not interested in a not-red version so OVA it is.
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Jan 8, 2022 05:52
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Napoleon Nelson posted:Looking at the booklets on Dalong, the HGUC F2 and Dra-C use the same polycaps for the arms and neck, so you could mix and match as long as no other parts get in the way. You'd have to use the Zaku torso if you wanted legs, the Dra-C has its own torso pieces and don't have a place to attach the Zaku waist. thanks, this is super helpful!
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Jan 8, 2022 14:05
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I just got into the hobby and know that it's not absolutely necessary that I airbrush my models...but, seriously, should I be airbrushing my models? Right now, I'm just trying to master removing nub marks with emory boards, so I'm kind of aspirational.
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Jan 8, 2022 18:05
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Marsupial Ape posted:I just got into the hobby and know that it's not absolutely necessary that I airbrush my models...but, seriously, should I be airbrushing my models? Right now, I'm just trying to master removing nub marks with emory boards, so I'm kind of aspirational. depends on if you want to spend the money. probably between $50-100 for the airbrush for a low to medium end one. compressors that'll do the job can be had for as low as $90. paints are also a lot when you're just starting and need 15-20 to color match the kit. another 100-150 for a fume hood, I think the respirator altogether was something like 30-40. but Ill admit I'm learning a lot and enjoying painting things for the first time in my life. still not fond of rattlecans but the airbrush just seems to give me enough things I can change on the fly to deal with conditions that I can really get a good finish after a few tries. in addition to allowing lazier nub marks, it makes the model pop and is way more uniform than markers. also if you want to get crazy with colors an airbrush is the way to do it.
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Jan 8, 2022 18:27
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the paradigm shift posted:depends on if you want to spend the money. probably between $50-100 for the airbrush for a low to medium end one. compressors that'll do the job can be had for as low as $90. paints are also a lot when you're just starting and need 15-20 to color match the kit. another 100-150 for a fume hood, I think the respirator altogether was something like 30-40. but Ill admit I'm learning a lot and enjoying painting things for the first time in my life. still not fond of rattlecans but the airbrush just seems to give me enough things I can change on the fly to deal with conditions that I can really get a good finish after a few tries. I have a garage and air compressor (gently caress you, random flat tires!), so I am covered on the work space side of things. I’m just trying to decide if I really want to go whole hog or not. Right now, I’m sourcing super find grit emory boards and blocks because I’ve seen some very impressive polishing results in YouTube videos.
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Jan 8, 2022 18:41
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Marsupial Ape posted:I have a garage and air compressor (gently caress you, random flat tires!), so I am covered on the work space side of things. I’m just trying to decide if I really want to go whole hog or not. the new hotness seems to be nanoglass files but I haven't tried them yet
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Jan 8, 2022 18:46
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the paradigm shift posted:the new hotness seems to be nanoglass files but I haven't tried them yet They're pretty great, but you really need to get the nub nipped close first. They take away rneed for multiple grits of sandpaper to get rid of nub marks.
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Jan 8, 2022 19:25
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I’m working on my first Gundam, the RG Exia, and I made the exact mistake that this guys here did: https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/5f4qgj/accidentally_cut_an_important_little_tab_off/ There’s supposed to be a nub sticking out of the side to hook a little “power cable” onto and then fit a little fastener piece on top. Dr Christmas fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Jan 8, 2022 |
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Jan 8, 2022 21:29
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 I built the Beyond Global Grandaddy Gundam. The engineering on this thing is something else.
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Jan 9, 2022 02:05
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Marsupial Ape posted:I just got into the hobby and know that it's not absolutely necessary that I airbrush my models...but, seriously, should I be airbrushing my models? Right now, I'm just trying to master removing nub marks with emory boards, so I'm kind of aspirational. Unless you honestly enjoy painting, no. It's an incredible pain in the rear end.
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Jan 9, 2022 14:15
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Arc Hammer posted:
Speaking of impressive engineering, I just finished my third ever model and I am extremely impressed by it.  All the detail under the outer layer that you still get glimpses of between the panels when you articulate them is extremely rewarding.
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Jan 9, 2022 17:28
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Hi thread! I am an absolute newbie about to start on my first kit, an HG Heavyarms. Stuff I've Googled has me convinced I should try panel lining it. A lot of resources suggest going with markers, but back when I was doing 40k minis, shading with ink was one of my better skills, so I'm drawn to the Tamiya panel line accent colors. Should I be getting clear acrylic to paint the line area with before hand so that the enamel doesn't melt it, or is it better to try to spray a clearcoat on, or is the risk wildly overblown and I should just be careful to use a light touch when I apply the panel line?
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Jan 10, 2022 06:45
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Personnel experience is that the Tamiya panel line is fine on regular uncoated Bandai plastic. I've seen plenty of comments on that your need to clear coat (preferably gloss) prior to using the Tamiya panel lining product. But I've done 8 Gundam (mixture of HG, RG and one MG) in the last two years, and have applied the Tamiya product straight to bare plastic and haven't had a single issue.
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Jan 10, 2022 07:14
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RillAkBea posted:Unless you honestly enjoy painting, no. It's an incredible pain in the rear end. Counterpoint: if you enjoy painting it's incredibly awesome. A simply painted, unshaded, un-panel lined HG kit looks worlds better than bare plastic. An MG with any extra work at all looks fantastic. Having the airbrush also opens up the world of scale models, and if you go that route you should probably just say goodbye to your family the morning the airbrush is expected to arrive.
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Jan 10, 2022 07:49
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mllaneza posted:Counterpoint: if you enjoy painting it's incredibly awesome. A simply painted, unshaded, un-panel lined HG kit looks worlds better than bare plastic. An MG with any extra work at all looks fantastic. Having the airbrush also opens up the world of scale models, and if you go that route you should probably just say goodbye to your family the morning the airbrush is expected to arrive. I do like the idea of “plussing up” HG kits. Can you panel line a painted part?
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Jan 10, 2022 07:54
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Zorak of Michigan posted:Hi thread! I am an absolute newbie about to start on my first kit, an HG Heavyarms. Stuff I've Googled has me convinced I should try panel lining it. A lot of resources suggest going with markers, but back when I was doing 40k minis, shading with ink was one of my better skills, so I'm drawn to the Tamiya panel line accent colors. Should I be getting clear acrylic to paint the line area with before hand so that the enamel doesn't melt it, or is it better to try to spray a clearcoat on, or is the risk wildly overblown and I should just be careful to use a light touch when I apply the panel line? As long as you don't let the panel liner (or more importantly the thinner you use to clean it up) get in between the seams and pool there you should be fine. Marsupial Ape posted:I do like the idea of “plussing up” HG kits. Can you panel line a painted part? Absolutely.
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Jan 10, 2022 08:04
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Marsupial Ape posted:I do like the idea of “plussing up” HG kits. Can you panel line a painted part? Yes, though you need to paint it gloss or gloss coat it so the ink stays in the line and doesn't wick all over the part.
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Jan 10, 2022 08:05
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Question for the MG Barbatos - can it hold its mace unsupported in one hand? I thought it might be fun to pose it with that and the howitzer at the ready.
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Jan 10, 2022 12:12
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Darth Walrus posted:Question for the MG Barbatos - can it hold its mace unsupported in one hand? I thought it might be fun to pose it with that and the howitzer at the ready. Even if it can't, what you could do is plant it inverted against the ground with one hand supporting it like it's bracing for a howitzer shot.
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Jan 10, 2022 12:19
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Zorak of Michigan posted:Hi thread! I am an absolute newbie about to start on my first kit, an HG Heavyarms. Stuff I've Googled has me convinced I should try panel lining it. A lot of resources suggest going with markers, but back when I was doing 40k minis, shading with ink was one of my better skills, so I'm drawn to the Tamiya panel line accent colors. Should I be getting clear acrylic to paint the line area with before hand so that the enamel doesn't melt it, or is it better to try to spray a clearcoat on, or is the risk wildly overblown and I should just be careful to use a light touch when I apply the panel line? This all depends on how you're defining "shading." If you're talking about doing a tiny pin wash along seams and details, I would still recommend using a clear coat first. Enamel washes can still run hot, and it's easier to spray a model with clear coat than repair it after your wash eats away chunks of the plastic. If you're only panel lining and not full-on painting the whole model, I find it easier just to hit it with the markers and be done with it. If you're thinking of a full-fledged ink wash all over your model, the panel liners don't work that way. They're formulated so they'll naturally run into cracks, versus lingering in thin layers all over like an acrylic wash. You'd get little blobs all over with most of the wash in the crevasses, as opposed to a smooth gradient.
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Jan 10, 2022 15:15
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grassy gnoll posted:This all depends on how you're defining "shading." Thanks, and to all of the other folks who responded as well. I definitely meant the former.
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Jan 10, 2022 17:03
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Darth Walrus posted:Question for the MG Barbatos - can it hold its mace unsupported in one hand? I thought it might be fun to pose it with that and the howitzer at the ready. Yep it can, in the short and extended modes
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Jan 10, 2022 17:03
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My stuff got here from HLJ super quick on the cheapest shipping, under a week I think. Good timing I expect. How do people like the RG Zeong? Seems to be widely available here, Forbidden Planet London had maybe six of them and I've seen them a bit cheaper in UK online stores.
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Jan 11, 2022 03:08
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BizarroAzrael posted:My stuff got here from HLJ super quick on the cheapest shipping, under a week I think. Good timing I expect. The RG Zeong is a great kit. Unlike any of its grade and super fun to build. If you like RGs at all you should get one.
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Jan 11, 2022 03:22
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I can second the RG Zeong kicking rear end. It comes with a big base too which is nice.
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Jan 11, 2022 03:34
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 Now I have two of these things! E: Yes I just realized I had the waist backwards, it's fixed now Waffleman_ fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Jan 11, 2022 |
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Jan 11, 2022 21:13
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Had a 30MM accessory pack sit in my Private Warehouse so long it needed to ship (I had a few other items on my wishlist I was hoping would restock in the interim) and I couldn't just accept shipping a $10AUD pack for $50AUD via DHL. So I spent an extra $60AUD getting an HG Bunyip Boomerang, and the Cup Noodle kit to justify a *checks cart* $75AUD shipping fee for all three items. 
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Jan 13, 2022 13:29
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Well I said I would get those kits done over my holiday and by god I got them done! HG RX-78  +great intro kit -crouching pose is next to impossible to balance without an action base RG Unicorn Destroy Mode  +really neat construction to allow flipping between normal and destroy mode +three sets of v-fins for locked close, locked open, and two split parts you can shift as you want +beam tonfas are neat as hell -actually flipping between normal and destroy mode is finicky as hell -shield is strangely loose, spins freely with the slightest bit of force RG Nu  +i'm a slut for fin funnels +comes with an extra rack for a second wing of fin funnels if you shell out more cash -fin funnels aren't compatible with any action base connectors -fin funnel effect pack costs one hundred loving dollars are you out of your mind +can improv one by trimming some plastic from one of the action base holders MG Char's Zaku 2  +articulated fingers holy poo poo +cockpit for a tiny char is adorable -kit is so old the instructions are entirely in japanese, had to ask about the second set of decals (they were rub-ons) -gently caress slide assemble -gently caress slide assemble -cut self trying to ease slide assemble On the whole, I had a grand time making them. I also found out that there's a gunpla store in my city.  So I already bought some more. 
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Jan 13, 2022 17:29
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BisbyWorl posted:
If you decide you would like effects for the fin funnels, you can grab these https://newtype.us/p/L5xdNmv31ZpRSd1GAiC6/h/rg-hi-nu-nu-fin-funnel-effects-set and wait for the jet effect parts to come back in stock somewhere
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Jan 13, 2022 17:58
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The fin funnel effects pack definitely does not cost 100 bucks lol Enjoy the RG Sazabi, it kicks rear end.
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Jan 13, 2022 18:00
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Ibblebibble posted:The fin funnel effects pack definitely does not cost 100 bucks lol This is correct It’s actually going for $169.99 in some parts (lmao hell no Amazon)
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Jan 13, 2022 18:25
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The gunpla shortage is so bad right now that assume that every kit you see online, especially that hasn't been reprinted in the past few months, is at least 40% more than usual. This counts double for ebay and amazon.
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Jan 13, 2022 20:05
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Don’t use the slide assemble for the Zaku tubing, it’s 10000x easier just to cut each individual tube coil part out with nippers and then slide them onto the foundation tube.
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Jan 13, 2022 21:00
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RoyalScion posted:Don’t use the slide assemble for the Zaku tubing, it’s 10000x easier just to cut each individual tube coil part out with nippers and then slide them onto the foundation tube. I did two Zaku 2.0s and didn't have any trouble with either. Grab the tube with vice grips so you have something to pull against and then pull the beads off one or two at a time. Use pliers if they give you trouble.
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Jan 13, 2022 23:55
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Monaghan posted:The gunpla shortage is so bad right now that assume that every kit you see online, especially that hasn't been reprinted in the past few months, is at least 40% more than usual. This counts double for ebay and amazon. Geez you aren't kidding. I still have my shameful dragon hoard of unbuilt kits; if you're looking for something a few years old and can't find it for non scalper prices send me a PM and I can try to make your gunpla dreams come true. The price of international shipping from the US often means I may not be able to offer a better deal than you can find at home, but I can try.
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Jan 14, 2022 05:14
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Or hit up a Target for whatever they may have instock. It will be limited, but it's retail price and you'll get practice.
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Jan 14, 2022 05:28
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Oh drat, my local store has the MG Turn X in stock but I need a couple of months to fit it into my money/time budget  Hopefully it's still in stock when I can get it.
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Jan 14, 2022 05:41
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| # ? May 26, 2024 11:31 |
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Ibblebibble posted:Oh drat, my local store has the MG Turn X in stock but I need a couple of months to fit it into my money/time budget If I've learned one thing in the current Gunpla drought, it's to pick up kits when you see them, and then you'll be able to build them later. Meanwhile, if you miss your shot, it's probably going to cost a lot more to get it. If money's tight, of course, that's different.
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Jan 14, 2022 07:08
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