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Whitenoise Poster
Mar 26, 2010

Probably a dwarf or semi-dwarf variety. I'm planing to get an apple tree and a mulberry tree. Apple tree I'm not worried about because the wal-mart I work at always gets them and I'm sure every other store near by that does plants has a million of them. But I don't think I've seen a mulberry tree so I figured that might be niche enough that it would be easier to just order online because I don't want to spend the cab fair to check out two or three other stores.

Like I found this
https://www.willisorchards.com/product/black-beauty-mulberry-tree?size=1303 and like a smallish tree seems cheap.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Whitenoise Poster posted:

Probably a dwarf or semi-dwarf variety. I'm planing to get an apple tree and a mulberry tree. Apple tree I'm not worried about because the wal-mart I work at always gets them

Do you know somebody who works out in that area that knows where they get theirs? It's almost always going to be some local place. You should check out that place for the stuff that's not carried where you work because they are almost definitely one of the largest commercial nurseries in your area.

Whitenoise Poster
Mar 26, 2010

I don't know off the top of my head who would know but I'll ask around. Thanks for the tip.

But also thanks for the tytyga and onegreenworld sites as a back up.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

i am harry posted:

I just sprouted a pomegranate seed and have some jackfruit seeds soaking :cry:

Jackfruit seeds spout pretty readily. I know this because a friend sprouted some and gave a seedling to me.

It was as tall as my hand then. It’s well over my head now, brushing the peak of my greenhouse. I need to top it and see if I can encourage branching.

Did you know you can roast or boil the seeds? Try it some time.

LibCrusher
Jan 6, 2019

by Fluffdaddy
Crossposted from Horticulture thread:

I’m planting out 1/2 acre of hazelnut trees ( 32 ) as a start to a hobby orchard in the Pacific Northwest 1000 miles away from where I live. I need help with irrigation design and best practices for planting/caring for tree nuts. Anybody here knowledgeable about that? Or know someone who is? I’m happy to pay for professional assistance. PM me your rates!

The site is a 5-acre parcel in Washington with 2.5 acres cleared and 2.5 acres forested. The cleared portion consists of a hilltop and south facing slope on which the trees will be planted. I intend to buy four 275-gallon IBC totes fitted with 3/4" hose adapters. They'll be filled with clean, non-potable water, trucked in at $.1/gal + $95 service fee. They will all gravity feed into a single 3/4" outlet, fitted with an irrigation timer and a filter. From there, I will run two 1/2" irrigation tubes through the middle of my 4x8 orchard plot, with 1/4" lines run to just upslope of each tree. The 1/2" lines will be plugged at the ends of the run. The 1/4" lines will be fitted with 1gph pressure compensating drip heads from Toro. Based on how hot and dry the summers have been lately, I want the irrigation to run every 7-14 days, starting ~15 May. The timer/controller has to survive out in the elements all summer long, and water my trees. I’m looking at either the Claber Tempo Hybrid Solar, which is only capable of a weekly schedule, and a couple DIG products which support up to a 30-day schedule, including an up to 99-day manual rain delay. The manual rain delay is because I have to do ALL the setup and planting over two weekends in february, and set the thing to start watering in May. I also intend to spread some wood ash to sweeten the soil and apply deer repellant for obvious reasons.

Questions:
1: Does anyone have a really good emitter brand they love? I picked these Toro units (https://www.dripdepot.com/item/toro-turbo-plus-ii-pc-cleanable-emitters-flow-rate-1-gph)because they function between 5-55psi, which should cover the range of pressure down the hill.
2: What watering schedule should I use? With ~1000 gallons to play with over the whole summer, I can do weekly 1h sessions starting 15 May, or 80mins every 10 days, or 2h biweekly. What do y’all recommend?
3: Am I a fool for trusting 1000 dollars of trees and a hundred hours of my labor to a $50 timer like this? https://www.digcorp.com/homeowner-drip-irrigation-products/evo-100-waterproof-solar-powered-digital-hose-end-timer-tap-timer/
Does a more robust timer exist for this application?
4: What is everyone's favorite method to give bare root trees their best start possible? The nursery is local, about 20 minutes up the road. I was thinking of dunking the root ball into a bucket of water and rooting compound before planting. The holes will be dug about a foot wide with store bought soil mixed in. Mulched all around when planted. Not staked (don't have the time)

Below is my dipshit diagram for the plot Open to any and all QCC.

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.
Got my first couple batches of seeds already. Only about a month until I get some of the peppers going indoors.



Kind of hoping between the marigolds (to repel them) and the sunflowers (as a trap plant) that the aphids won't give me a hard time on my tomatoes this year.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Chad Sexington posted:

Got my first couple batches of seeds already. Only about a month until I get some of the peppers going indoors.



Kind of hoping between the marigolds (to repel them) and the sunflowers (as a trap plant) that the aphids won't give me a hard time on my tomatoes this year.

I hope those do well for you this year. I really like marigolds too, but they’re so cheap I’ve been lazy and just buy a flat or two and dot them around the place in pots. I grabbed starting mix this morning myself, which means I have to decide what I’m growing from starts. I have a bunch of stuff that may winter just fine. It snowed and shut down the city for a week, so I hope that’s my fill of freeze and snow.

I also hope that you got good seeds from Pepper Joe’s. There’s no way to know for sure until they fruit unfortunately. Just a friendly PSA for everyone though, they suck balls at sending the right stuff inside the packets. There was a deluge of posts in hot pepper groups in the autumn with people asking wtf do I have. I planted something else and got seeds from Pepper Joe’s. Not sure what they changed, but I wouldn’t buy seeds from them if you can avoid it. Chances are good that you can. Maybe they’ve fixed their issues, who knows.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


It's seed-catalog season, yaaaaaaay! My first arrived today, Richter's (up in Canada). We moved in July; I'll be interested to find out how many catalog companies the three places we ordered perennials from sold our name to.

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.

Jhet posted:

I also hope that you got good seeds from Pepper Joe’s. There’s no way to know for sure until they fruit unfortunately. Just a friendly PSA for everyone though, they suck balls at sending the right stuff inside the packets. There was a deluge of posts in hot pepper groups in the autumn with people asking wtf do I have. I planted something else and got seeds from Pepper Joe’s. Not sure what they changed, but I wouldn’t buy seeds from them if you can avoid it. Chances are good that you can. Maybe they’ve fixed their issues, who knows.

That's good to know, thanks! I was a little weirded out when they threw in a bag of random seeds with the order.

But I'm going for yellow hot peppers this year and they have the best selection... which would make it funny if it was random poo poo. They're not the cheapest either.

e: Haha I did some Googling and Pepper Joe has some wild and lovely history

Chad Sexington fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Jan 6, 2022

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Jhet, who would you buy pepper seeds from instead?

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I think I'm going to bail on the cruciferous veggies this summer except maybe a few sprouting broccoli around the edges. I'm just sick of dealing with the goddamn worms.

Right now I'm looking at filling up the hoop house with tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, eggplant, leeks, scallions, onions, garlic, carrots, parsnips, peppers, beans, peas, and a few potatoes and melons around the edges for funzies. Any suggestions for other things I can try out? Particularly heat tolerant stuff? I especially like stuff that I can harvest all summer long as a steady food flow.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Jhet, who would you buy pepper seeds from instead?

https://www.semillas.de/cgi-bin/shop_en/shop.cgi Has an amazing selection. Everything I've bought from them is true to pheno and I've had very good germ rates.
https://www.whitehotpeppers.com/ Is a decent one in the hot pepper community. Stick with the isolated tags, otherwise there may have been an unintentional cross (or take a punt, people post happy about this place). Super hots here.
https://tomatogrowers.com/pages/peppers Has an okay selection of sweets and hots (but I'd go elsewhere for super hots).
https://puckerbuttpeppercompany.com/collections/seeds/ Also for seeds. Reapers straight from Ed Currie. Because the company is all about making new strains they keep their phenotypes well and isolate properly.
https://chilepepperinstitute.ecwid.com/Seeds-c85441005 Direct from the New Mexico Chile Pepper Institute.

I got burned by Baker Creek with crappy pepper seeds, so I avoid them now for that reason and others. Seed swaps are also a thing, but I didn't have anything left to swap after moving house last spring, so next autumn for that. Some places will just stick in a random packet of something free as well. If you happen across KS Lemon Starburst that's one of Khang Starr's crosses. That and a White Thai variety. You should never pay for these seeds as they were released with the purpose of being swap seeds and always free, but someone started selling the lemon starrburst for this next year. Other shops will grow them and just toss them in for free because they're awesome and not the opposite.

Oh, and I suppose if you can find CARDI stuff that would be a good move too. http://www.cardi.org/links/information-sources/hot-peppers-2/ They come from the Caribbean though and I don't know if they're selling seeds direct right now.

Jhet fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Jan 6, 2022

mischief
Jun 3, 2003

BEEP BEEP we got a skid steer next door. This garden will never see it coming but we're either turning it inside out or being done with it forever.

Seed catalogs are not helping my decisions.

Solkanar512
Dec 28, 2006

by the sex ghost
Hey, has anyone here ever used those soil block makers (soil blockers) before? I have a few questions.

1. Do you really need the micro (3/4") and the mini (2") together? It seems like extra work if you're just going to put the little block inside the medium sized block when you could just put the seeds into the medium sized block to begin with. I have a hotbed, so my germination rates are really, really high.
2. Do the offbrand ones work well, or do you need to get a Ladbrooke to ensure you have a tool that will last? I'm never sure if you're paying for a name or actual quality.
3. Do you water the blocks form the top or the bottom?
4. Anything else I should know?

Thanks in advance!

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Solkanar512 posted:

Hey, has anyone here ever used those soil block makers (soil blockers) before? I have a few questions.

1. Do you really need the micro (3/4") and the mini (2") together? It seems like extra work if you're just going to put the little block inside the medium sized block when you could just put the seeds into the medium sized block to begin with. I have a hotbed, so my germination rates are really, really high.
2. Do the offbrand ones work well, or do you need to get a Ladbrooke to ensure you have a tool that will last? I'm never sure if you're paying for a name or actual quality.
3. Do you water the blocks form the top or the bottom?
4. Anything else I should know?

Thanks in advance!

I've made my own soil blocks (and block mold), but just start with the medium size. They also make a 4" too, but you'll probably want to put them in the 4" pots instead. I wouldn't get the ladbrooke one unless you're making hundreds of them a year. It'll be an expensive paperweight for 355/356 days a year. Water from the bottom, and pack them tight enough on the outside edge that they don't fall apart when you pot them up. Don't water the day you move them, do it at least a day before.

showbiz_liz
Jun 2, 2008
I just bought a shitload of bamboo to make my own tomato cages, has anyone done this before? I'm gonna have to learn some knots...

Progressive JPEG
Feb 19, 2003

showbiz_liz posted:

I just bought a shitload of bamboo to make my own tomato cages, has anyone done this before? I'm gonna have to learn some knots...

I've just made vertical tripods/teepees out of three poles, standing over the plant and tied together at the top. Then as the plant grows it can be tied onto the "legs" of the tripod. There's probably a better way but this has been pretty easy for me.

sexy tiger boobs
Aug 23, 2002

Up shit creek with a turd for a paddle.

showbiz_liz posted:

I just bought a shitload of bamboo to make my own tomato cages, has anyone done this before? I'm gonna have to learn some knots...

I build big cages that fit the whole raised beds using the bamboo that the previous owners planted. Probably isn't the most efficient but I use Japanese square lashing, comes out pretty solid and looks nice. Then I get tired of doing it and just spam zip ties...

showbiz_liz
Jun 2, 2008

Progressive JPEG posted:

I've just made vertical tripods/teepees out of three poles, standing over the plant and tied together at the top. Then as the plant grows it can be tied onto the "legs" of the tripod. There's probably a better way but this has been pretty easy for me.

Problem for me is I can only grow in pots, and when I did tripods last year they were pretty unstable because I couldn't make the base of the tripod any wider than the pots were.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Solkanar512 posted:

Hey, has anyone here ever used those soil block makers (soil blockers) before? I have a few questions.

1. Do you really need the micro (3/4") and the mini (2") together? It seems like extra work if you're just going to put the little block inside the medium sized block when you could just put the seeds into the medium sized block to begin with. I have a hotbed, so my germination rates are really, really high.
2. Do the offbrand ones work well, or do you need to get a Ladbrooke to ensure you have a tool that will last? I'm never sure if you're paying for a name or actual quality.
3. Do you water the blocks form the top or the bottom?
4. Anything else I should know?

Thanks in advance!

I 3d printed a 3/4" soil block maker and once stuff germinates I just plop it into bigger pots (for my tomatoes, store brand solo cups) or into the ground. I water them from the bottom. Typically I'll save a few plastic clamshell containers from like salad greens or something and use those as my trays.

i am harry
Oct 14, 2003

Home Depot was selling 1.5cu ft bags of mg garden soil “flowers” for $0.90 each I’m assuming they’re just fertilized with more p and k?

mischief
Jun 3, 2003

My oldest daughter has a friend over tonight and she just ate a tomato for the first time. 18 years old.


I got some pretty good over the counter tomatoes but what the gently caress. How do you grow up in the country rear end end of nowhere and never have a tomato.

Her mind is going to be blown in the spring.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

i am harry posted:

Home Depot was selling 1.5cu ft bags of mg garden soil “flowers” for $0.90 each I’m assuming they’re just fertilized with more p and k?



For ninety cents per bag, I’d buy a bunch and use it as mulch.

i am harry
Oct 14, 2003

Platystemon posted:



For ninety cents per bag, I’d buy a bunch and use it as mulch.

Yeah I was going to compare $100 worth of it with a local landscape place thanks for the image! The bags are currently frozen and covered in snow

Platystemon posted:

Did you know you can roast or boil the seeds? Try it some time.
Yeah they sort of taste like roast chestnuts!

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Platystemon posted:



For ninety cents per bag, I’d buy a bunch and use it as mulch.

My experience with Miracle Grow is that most of their bagged soil is basically just somewhat degraded mulch, but that's what I'd normally pay for a landscape place to dump off cheap (softwood) mulch anyway so I'm not sure I'd bother lugging 100 bags around and then presumably storing them over the winter.

If I was going to buy poo poo in bags I'd open a few to check them first, as I've seen some lots that end up with weird poo poo like plastic or gravel mixed in which you then get to pick out of your garden.

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.

Wallet posted:

My experience with Miracle Grow is that most of their bagged soil is basically just somewhat degraded mulch, but that's what I'd normally pay for a landscape place to dump off cheap (softwood) mulch anyway so I'm not sure I'd bother lugging 100 bags around and then presumably storing them over the winter.

If I was going to buy poo poo in bags I'd open a few to check them first, as I've seen some lots that end up with weird poo poo like plastic or gravel mixed in which you then get to pick out of your garden.

And probably fungus gnats.

Those little fuckers have been harassing us all winter after I pulled all our houseplants inside.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Chad Sexington posted:

And probably fungus gnats.

Those little fuckers have been harassing us all winter after I pulled all our houseplants inside.

There’s a strain of bacteria BTi that will wipe out the fungus gnats. It’s the same as the one you get for mosquito control and you can sprinkle the bits, but I’d recommend the spray version. We had problems in the past and it wiped them out in about 2 days.

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.

Jhet posted:

There’s a strain of bacteria BTi that will wipe out the fungus gnats. It’s the same as the one you get for mosquito control and you can sprinkle the bits, but I’d recommend the spray version. We had problems in the past and it wiped them out in about 2 days.

I sprinkle mosquito bits on all my plants but it's been doing gently caress-all. Will look at the spray.

e: ...which I already got for an infestation this summer I forgot about

Chad Sexington fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Jan 12, 2022

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Chad Sexington posted:

I sprinkle mosquito bits on all my plants but it's been doing gently caress-all. Will look at the spray.

dilute hydrogen peroxide/water douche to the soil will kill gnat larvae

candystarlight
Jun 5, 2017

Chad Sexington posted:

I sprinkle mosquito bits on all my plants but it's been doing gently caress-all. Will look at the spray.

e: ...which I already got for an infestation this summer I forgot about

I had better luck fully mixing the mosquito bits into the soil than I did leaving them on top.

Watering exclusively with either 4:1 peroxide dilution water or BT treated water, mixing the mosquito bits into the soil, AND using sticky traps has been the only way that I've successfully kept their populations low. But still, all of that and they STILL aren't completely gone.

I'm definitely researching the spray now too. It's been over a year now that I've been fighting these fuckers.

I once even tried microwaving all my soil to kill anything in it, which was great for making my house smell like a dairy farm but not much else.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

candystarlight posted:

Watering exclusively with either 4:1 peroxide dilution water or BT treated water, mixing the mosquito bits into the soil, AND using sticky traps has been the only way that I've successfully kept their populations low. But still, all of that and they STILL aren't completely gone.

Putting something gritty on top of your soil is generally pretty effective as they have to pass through that barrier to lay eggs and to go from larva to gnat and they can't handle it.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
I murdered them with dichlorvos. They weren’t actually the pest that I needed to clear out, but it took care of them, all right.

Nosre
Apr 16, 2002


You can soak the mosquito bits in your watering can and then water with that, it seems to be better than just putting the bits on top of the soil

Also: attacking multiple life stages at the same time. I use sticky traps to get the adults in addition to the bits water plan and have successfully fought off an infestation

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Oh yeah the yellow sticky traps do definitely do thin their numbers.

Those were so successful that I didn’t really care about getting every last gnat.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

candystarlight posted:

I had better luck fully mixing the mosquito bits into the soil than I did leaving them on top.

Watering exclusively with either 4:1 peroxide dilution water or BT treated water, mixing the mosquito bits into the soil, AND using sticky traps has been the only way that I've successfully kept their populations low. But still, all of that and they STILL aren't completely gone.

I'm definitely researching the spray now too. It's been over a year now that I've been fighting these fuckers.

I once even tried microwaving all my soil to kill anything in it, which was great for making my house smell like a dairy farm but not much else.

If you get and use the spray, put it in a spray bottle and completely soak the top 1/2" of soil. Anything going in or out will end up experiencing the bacteria. At the same time I just stopped watering for a month or so. The only water any plants would get would be with the BTi in the spray bottle. Haven't had any issues at all since then probably 5 years ago and 2 moves since.

candystarlight
Jun 5, 2017

Wallet posted:

Putting something gritty on top of your soil is generally pretty effective as they have to pass through that barrier to lay eggs and to go from larva to gnat and they can't handle it.

I totally forgot about this, thank you for the reminder! A very long time ago I tried adding an inch of sand to the tops of the infested plants, but the sand of course hid all the soil and I was bad at estimating the soil moisture and ended up under watering and killing everything.

I've since switched to bottom watering in the grow pots instead of planting directly into the decor pot, so it would probably be much more successful now.

Jhet posted:

If you get and use the spray, put it in a spray bottle and completely soak the top 1/2" of soil. Anything going in or out will end up experiencing the bacteria. At the same time I just stopped watering for a month or so. The only water any plants would get would be with the BTi in the spray bottle. Haven't had any issues at all since then probably 5 years ago and 2 moves since.

Cool, thank you so much! I cannot wait to be done with these things.

Jabronie
Jun 4, 2011

In an investigation, details matter.
Are carnivorous plants effective? I just bought a little venus fly trap after bringing in some plants with outdoor soil.

Dang It Bhabhi!
May 27, 2004



ASK ME ABOUT
BEING
ESCULA GRIND'S
#1 SIMP

Jabronie posted:

Are carnivorous plants effective? I just bought a little venus fly trap after bringing in some plants with outdoor soil.



¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

candystarlight posted:

I totally forgot about this, thank you for the reminder! A very long time ago I tried adding an inch of sand to the tops of the infested plants, but the sand of course hid all the soil and I was bad at estimating the soil moisture and ended up under watering and killing everything.

I've since switched to bottom watering in the grow pots instead of planting directly into the decor pot, so it would probably be much more successful now.

Cool, thank you so much! I cannot wait to be done with these things.

I use pumice, but you could also use river pebbles or whatever. I wouldn't really commend putting sand on top of your soil for a number of reasons.

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Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Jabronie posted:

Are carnivorous plants effective? I just bought a little venus fly trap after bringing in some plants with outdoor soil.

My nepenthes have never done much to pests.

Sundews or butterworts, as nature’s yellow sticky traps, might have more success, but I’m just speculating there.

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