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SourKraut posted:Washables are garbage too though. Cheap $5 pleated - MERV 7 or 8 min, MERV 11 max, replace every 2-3 months (or sooner with lots of pets), call it a day. Also agreed.
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Jan 31, 2022 23:42
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SourKraut posted:Washables are garbage too though. Cheap $5 pleated - MERV 7 or 8 min, MERV 11 max, replace every 2-3 months (or sooner with lots of pets), call it a day.
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Jan 31, 2022 23:44
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actionjackson posted:when my toaster finishes and the food pops up, I notice there's a very quick flash of white light towards the bottom Dying is normal. Eventually. Real answer: possibly normal. It might be the mechanism disconnecting power when it pops, since a lot of basic toasters are purely mechanical. The act of sliding the lever down bridges contacts to power the heating coils, and of course disconnects power when it moves back up.
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Feb 1, 2022 00:36
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Darchangel posted:Dying is normal. Eventually. alright cool, anything I should look out for worst case scenario? I don't want a loving electrical fire I cleaned the coils a bit with a small amount of warm water and vinegar, maybe it hadn't fully dried. Apparently for the stuff that's really stuck on using a hair dryer can help loosen it?
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Feb 1, 2022 00:58
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Motronic posted:Also agreed. Yeah, when I first started dating my wife, she had a neighbor nearby in her condo complex who turned out to be a creepy old man... at one point he switched to washables, and talked her (me) into washing it for him. They were poo poo, cleaning them with a hose sucked because he had tons of cats, and it was both hilarious and creepy the amount of young women materials he had in his condo... Slugworth posted:Yeah, I think I'm swapping out the washable one. It just doesn't look up to the task of filtering out much. Googling suggests a MERV of between 1 to 4.
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Feb 1, 2022 04:11
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actionjackson posted:when my toaster finishes and the food pops up, I notice there's a very quick flash of white light towards the bottom There's a thermal contact making that flash. A dirty, dirty contact. If you're lucky there's a trapdoor in the bottom for emptying the accumulated toast orts. Uh, unplug it first. Then, open to bottom & look where the wires down there go to, as well as the color adjustment. Get a Q-tip, or a butter knife with a thin rag wrapped around it. Swab the contacts with alcohol & wipe them down. If you have one with the special toast ort drawers, then you're screwed, unless you disassemble it.
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Feb 1, 2022 04:45
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SourKraut posted:Yeah, when I first started dating my wife, she had a neighbor nearby in her condo complex who turned out to be a creepy old man... at one point he switched to washables, and talked her (me) into washing it for him. They were poo poo, cleaning them with a hose sucked because he had tons of cats, and it was both hilarious and creepy the amount of young women materials he had in his condo...
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Feb 1, 2022 05:34
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PainterofCrap posted:There's a thermal contact making that flash. there is a crumb tray but you have to unscrew the bottom to get to most of that space for cleaning. thanks for the tips, honestly i'll probably just get a new toaster and make sure to clean it regularly
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Feb 1, 2022 06:10
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Motronic posted:Don't feel bad. A lot of furnace filter locations are made in the field, by idiots who don't care because they're not the ones changing the filter, and are getting paid by the job anyway. My house was built with a 20x40x1 grille for no reason and if you try to go anything above MERV-0 it will instantly inhale the filters. My workaround has been hoarding weird 20x40x3 retrofits with a foam surround, which means more surface area and less restriction.
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Feb 1, 2022 07:59
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PainterofCrap posted:There's a thermal contact making that flash. btw is there any risk for me to keep using it (until I assume it will just die)?
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Feb 1, 2022 15:23
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No, it should die peacefully. But I'm posting from some distance. VVV It should, but remember: I'm posting psychically. Open it up & post a picture. VVV PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Feb 1, 2022 |
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Feb 1, 2022 17:33
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PainterofCrap posted:No, it should die peacefully. But I'm posting from some distance. alright, well I'll have a backup ready  if I unscrew the bottom will that help me clean the area you mentioned? there is one small screw in each corner
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Feb 1, 2022 17:35
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I've got a furnace that suddenly started tripping thermal protection a couple times a day in cold weather. This leads to a period of three or four hours with no heat, unless I go manually reset the system by flipping the master switch off and on. Resetting the system lets it run normally and it maintains temperature for 8 to 12 hours before tripping again. I replaced the MERV-4 filter with a MERV-1 and it did not change the behavior. Anything else I should try before calling (and paying) for a service? The last service was in August, normal annual maintenance.
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Feb 2, 2022 23:07
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Grumpwagon posted:In today's episode of "The Undersink Cupboard of Horrors" Thanks for the help. I installed the new disposal with no hiccups and no leaks (yet!), though I wasn't able to move the outlet yet, as there was no slack in the wire. Another project on the list! Today's project though, I'm trying to replace the old fabric insulated wire that goes to my thermostat. All the main wiring has been replaced with modern stuff by previous owners, but they left this, which, to my understanding, is fine since it is so low voltage. Unfortunately for me, the 4th wire in the bundle has stopped working (it is currently not hooked up, but it didn't work even before that). My new thermostat is complaining about it, so I'd like to run new wire. I know how to pull wire through walls, the thing I don't know anything about is hooking these wires up to the furnace. Am I able to simply connect a C wire to the furnace control panel to supply power, and not change any of the other wires, or is it more complicated than that? Here's a picture of the wires on the panel in the furnace. It is a brand new 2 stage Amana. There is no cooling system (there is a whole house humidifier, but that is not controlled by the thermostat). Happy to supply any more information needed. I'm a dummy about HVAC.  EDIT: I said C wire above, but looking at the thermostat, it says the Y wire is not connected, W, G, R are connected. Google says the Y wire controls cooling, which obviously isn't needed. The wires were labelled when connected to the old thermostat, so I just used the existing labels and connected like to like (the existing labels were Rc, G, Y, W). Given the PO's other work and the age of the wires, it is certainly possible the labeling was wrong. So I guess I have 2 questions now. Does the Y wire have a purpose in a house with no cooling, or do we suspect this was mislabeled? And, what do I do about it? The thermostat is complaining about the Y wire being disconnected, and the battery is rapidly draining (which is what made me think I needed a C wire in the first place). I'd like to fix this myself, but given that I clearly don't know anything about HVAC, if the opinion is I should bring the furnace people back, I can certainly do that. Grumpwagon fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Feb 3, 2022 |
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Feb 3, 2022 15:38
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PremiumSupport posted:I've got a furnace that suddenly started tripping thermal protection a couple times a day in cold weather. This leads to a period of three or four hours with no heat, unless I go manually reset the system by flipping the master switch off and on. Resetting the system lets it run normally and it maintains temperature for 8 to 12 hours before tripping again. I replaced the MERV-4 filter with a MERV-1 and it did not change the behavior. Anything else I should try before calling (and paying) for a service? Generally the thermal sensor means that it's getting hot where it shouldn't or too hot. Check the Thermal switch connection and or replace the sensor. Make sure exhaust vent is free of debris etc.
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Feb 3, 2022 16:24
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Grumpwagon posted:I'm trying to replace the old fabric insulated wire that goes to my thermostat. To follow up on this, I did a bit more research and just completed this project successfully! To answer my own questions in case it can help other novices: Yes, connecting a C wire is as simple as just wiring a (typically blue or black) wire to the C terminal on your furnace. You don't always need a C wire, but if your thermostat complains about not getting enough power, that is a simple fix for it. Replacing old style fabric wiring isn't necessary, but made the job way easier, and I recommend it if it is easy to do. I used 18/5 thermostat wire, since I have a simple system, but I've since heard it recommended you may as well pull /8 wire for future proofing. I couldn't find that wire, and I'm not too concerned about that as I have a small house, and 5 is plenty to control heating and cooling. The Y wire is for cooling, my wires were just labelled wrong. I found this article to be very thorough about all things thermostat wiring. Grumpwagon fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Feb 8, 2022 |
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Feb 8, 2022 03:10
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My shower and bathroom need some caulk. This is what I *think* I should be doing: Make sure the bathroom is dry as gently caress. Scrape off the old poo poo and get all the little bits. Soak a rag in rubbing alcohol, and wipe down the joints/corners etc.... Wait a bit, apply caulk and let dry as per manufacturer's instructions. Am I missing anything? should I clean it before I scrape the old stuff off? Not so much for the caulk thats getting removed, but so the surrounding area is clean? Right now the beads that are currently there are quite thin, and I'll probably not be able to make them that thin so maybe its a good idea to clean the surrounding area as well? Or will the rubbing alcohol take care of that?
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Feb 9, 2022 01:34
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wesleywillis posted:My shower and bathroom need some caulk. You'll want the area you are applying it to be as clean as possible. Get some caulk smoothing tools, if you haven't done it much, they can make even a rookie job look very clean. (Like maybe 5$ at a big box store) I've had good luck with silicone instead of caulk, seems to stay looking nice longer, redid my shower with it 2 years ago and looks the same as the day I put it in. Little harder to clean up though, or at least it seemed so to me.
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Feb 9, 2022 06:00
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I'm a big dumb home improvement babby but tracing cables around the basement ceiling this evening suggests the following about my hardwired smoke detector network. So starting at the basement unit, there is a thick grey cable going up the floor, I assume that's the signal bundle to the main floor. There is also a thin brown cable, probably stranded, it goes up through various floorboards and meets another brown cable above the furnace. Both cables go down (and are twisted around a gas pipe) and terminate in the furnace through a grommet next to the metal switch receptacle. Tracing the other cable around, it appears to go out of the house above my septic tank exit, with a heat-wrapped pipe, and a copper pipe together. This is separate from the telephone interconnect itself though. It is also not the wellpump egress. what's with that other brown cable coming out of the furnace and going out of the house? It's wrapped around the gas pipes at places, it's been there. maybe it's another link to the phone power system so that if even phone hardlines have power the smoke detectors and furnace do? I'm stumped, I don't see what thermal pipe, copper pipe, and stranded would be doing exiting together.
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Feb 9, 2022 09:07
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Rakeris posted:silicone instead of caulk I thought one=the other. Whats the diff? I have one of those tools, should dig it up. Annoying thing is, it doesn't go all the way on the tube. I have to hold it on with my fingers.
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Feb 9, 2022 12:28
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My experience from doing one (1) sink and two (2) exterior outlet boxes: Everyone tells you to use painter's tape to keep the edges clean. You'll think that it can't get all that messy and you'll be fine. You'd be wrong. Use painter's tape. Laying down a bead and smoothing it is actually easier than you think if you've got a steady-ish hand. Just make the bead smaller than you think you'll need it to be. IMO cleaning up the old caulk is the hardest/most time consuming part. Get a razor scraper, and get caulk remover... I got caulk remover but never used it, because I got in to the work and completely forgot I had it. I presume it works as advertised, but I guess I don't know. I also need to do my shower. But it's tile and it's going to be a massive gigantic pain in the rear end and I'm probably going to hire it out because I just don't have time for that poo poo right now.
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Feb 9, 2022 13:12
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Paul MaudDib posted:what's with that other brown cable coming out of the furnace and going out of the house? It's wrapped around the gas pipes at places, it's been there. maybe it's another link to the phone power system so that if even phone hardlines have power the smoke detectors and furnace do? I'm stumped, I don't see what thermal pipe, copper pipe, and stranded would be doing exiting together. You have a heat pump or AC compressor outside, right? That's how your thermostat and furnace signal to turn that thing on (and switch the reversing valve if it's a heat pump). It's 24v AC like your tstat/furnace.
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Feb 9, 2022 16:54
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wesleywillis posted:I thought one=the other. Caulk is paintable. May have a little silicone in it. May dry hard Silicone caulk is definitely not paintable, and stays flexible when cured. Adhesive silicone caulk will stick like a motherfucker to anything but what you want it to.
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Feb 10, 2022 01:12
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wesleywillis posted:My shower and bathroom need some caulk. Don't put your caulk in every hole. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mijfIvc7t18 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdNkBujktjg Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Feb 10, 2022 |
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Feb 10, 2022 01:12
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PainterofCrap posted:Adhesive silicone caulk will stick like a motherfucker to anything but what you want it to. This has been my experience.
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Feb 10, 2022 02:18
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 Is there a repair for this somewhere on the spectrum BETWEEN (lovely) caulk - - - - - replace door ($$$)
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Feb 10, 2022 19:55
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Sanding, wood filler, sanding, repainting.
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Feb 10, 2022 20:05
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Why did it happen? Is it due to the frame moving from seasonal changes and that center panel isn't floating as it should, or, is that impact damage? IMO if its the former, patching and sanding may work but may also just crack again next year. If it's the latter, patching & sanding should be a permanent fix.
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Feb 10, 2022 21:36
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Leperflesh posted:Why did it happen? Is it due to the frame moving from seasonal changes and that center panel isn't floating as it should, or, is that impact damage? IMO if its the former, patching and sanding may work but may also just crack again next year. If it's the latter, patching & sanding should be a permanent fix. It cracked when it got record breakingly cold last year and now it's closed in the summer and wide open in the winter.
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Feb 11, 2022 00:19
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OK, yeah. If you fill it, during the summer when the door contracts, it may crack or warp or something. What's happening is, in traditional solid wood door construction, there are slots in the frame and cross pieces that the panels "float" in - they're a little loose, not glued in, intentionally so that as the frame members move from moisture changes, they don't force the frame joints open and/or split apart. But the panel isn't floating properly. Might be too many generations of paint, might be nailed in or poor construction technique, I dunno. It may be fixable by stripping all the old paint off, inspect the panel, see if you can get it loosened up a tad (doesn't take much). But either way, you'll want to force the crack closed before repair, because if you just fill the crack, it'll now be a bit wider than it should and that means when the frame contracts the panel may brace against both sides of the slots it's in and then apply outward pressure to the boards. Maybe there's some kind of compressible fill you could use on the split. Maybe there's enough play that filling it "wider" than it was won't be an actual problem. Maybe it'll never shrink as much as it did before. This is all just principles of floating frame construction talk, I can't make any guarantees. e. it's also possibly not even a floating panel. In that case, filling still may or may not be a problem. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Feb 11, 2022 |
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Feb 11, 2022 00:38
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tactlessbastard posted:It cracked when it got record breakingly cold last year and now it's closed in the summer and wide open in the winter. Ohhhh....don't do what I said. I though that was mechanical damage. That panel is supposed to float. It's hard to tell what you've got there. Has it been painted over a whole bunch on one or both sides? Especially down in the corners/edges? Normally the paint will crack there, but if there's been a lot slopped on it this could happen instead.
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Feb 11, 2022 00:45
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I made a mistake and bought these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Strong-Drive-174-SDS-HEAVY-DUTY-CONNECTOR-Screw-8212-1-4-in-x-3-in-DB-Coating-25-Qty/1002702870 1/4-in x 3-in Double-barrier Coating Double-barrier Hex Exterior Wood Screws They have a 3/8" hex head. I'll still be able to use them, I'm just not sure how. My googling has failed me, what bit can I put in my impact driver to use these screws? Fozzy The Bear fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Feb 11, 2022 |
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Feb 11, 2022 02:02
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Fozzy The Bear posted:I made a mistake and bought these: https://www.google.com/search?q=3%2F8+in.+Magnetic+Hex+Drivers&client=ms-android-google&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
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Feb 11, 2022 02:14
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Rakeris posted:Something like: Hex driver! Thanks.
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Feb 11, 2022 03:13
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Thanks to all for the advice RE: caulking my bathroom. Since its not that expensive, I might as well get the best caulking I can possibly afford, what brands are the good poo poo? Also, on the subject of sealing things, I guess I should probably seal the grout in my bathroom. Shower and floor tiles. Kitchen floor tiles too I guess. So same questions I guess, how should I clean it and then what brand of sealant is the good poo poo?
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Feb 11, 2022 12:34
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Fozzy The Bear posted:I made a mistake and bought these: I have an adapter for my driver that I can put sockets on that I use for this sort of application. Works fine enough
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Feb 11, 2022 15:04
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couldcareless posted:I have an adapter for my driver that I can put sockets on that I use for this sort of application. Works fine enough Hex driver bits are nice, though, intact they're typically shorter than an adapter + socket, for when that matters, and also often have a built-in magnet for holding screws. I have the adapter, plus hex bits for several common sizes. Of course, I have a tool set built up over 50 years in a toolbox that's 5' tall, too. I'm not a normal homeowner (I'm a car guy - we need a lot of tools.)
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Feb 11, 2022 21:58
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The screws failed on one of the drawers in my kitchen (see picture). What's the best way to fix it? The drawer face is 13/16" thick. Not sure what kind of wood it is. I could think of 2 obvious solutions but I'd like to hear alternate ideas or if one of them is better. Idea 1: drill a bigger hole into the wood, insert a plug, then put in new screws. Idea 2: drill a bigger hole, put in a threaded insert and use bolts to fasten it. 
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Feb 12, 2022 17:11
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Is this for the drawer pull, or is the drawer itself falling apart? I'm guessing the former? The classic fix for a bad hole in wood is to pack the hole with toothpicks and wood glue, then re-drill the hole after the glue has hardened.
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Feb 12, 2022 19:04
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Yes it’s the drawer pull (I didn’t know what it’s called). The drawer itself is fine and this attaches via through-holes onto the drawer itself. Edit: as in a fastener goes through the drawer front and into the wood of the front part. The picture is the front part and the screws have been pulled out of the wood.
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Feb 12, 2022 19:57
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