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Just got an email about Printed Solid becoming a Prusa Printers distributor for the US, but then saw the disclaimer about how it's only for Educational, Government or something else buyers before my eyes rolled back in my head. They might become a useful end-user buyer point in the future though, apparently.
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Feb 18, 2022 15:14
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Roundboy posted:I have cardboard, no foamcore but I can get it cheap. I've used a 3d printer box with an open bottom and one side open with a clear plastic bag taped over the open side as an enclosure. It worked for the ABS I was printing but it's not something you want to leave unattended at all due to the fire risk.
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Feb 18, 2022 15:16
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Or just poke a hole in the box to run your bowden tube through
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Feb 18, 2022 16:09
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Just got an email about Printed Solid becoming a Prusa Printers distributor for the US, but then saw the disclaimer about how it's only for Educational, Government or something else buyers before my eyes rolled back in my head. I really don't understand why they don't either partner with someone, or set up their own distribution hub here.
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Feb 18, 2022 17:51
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probably because they can't keep up with demand as it is
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Feb 18, 2022 17:56
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I really wish there was somewhere local I could buy 3D printer filament from in Seattle, kinda boggles the mind that no hobby shops seem to stock it. I’d like to support a local shop or maker space but it seems like it’s basically Amazon, direct from the manufacturer, or nothing.
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Feb 18, 2022 19:27
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Talorat posted:I really wish there was somewhere local I could buy 3D printer filament from in Seattle, kinda boggles the mind that no hobby shops seem to stock it. I’d like to support a local shop or maker space but it seems like it’s basically Amazon, direct from the manufacturer, or nothing. Fry's used to before they went full ghost town and then out of business.
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Feb 18, 2022 20:08
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Talorat posted:I really wish there was somewhere local I could buy 3D printer filament from in Seattle, kinda boggles the mind that no hobby shops seem to stock it. I’d like to support a local shop or maker space but it seems like it’s basically Amazon, direct from the manufacturer, or nothing. I would absolutely not be shocked if it turned out that hobby shops were being pressured by their suppliers not to stock 3D printing supplies.
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Feb 18, 2022 20:09
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Talorat posted:I really wish there was somewhere local I could buy 3D printer filament from in Seattle, kinda boggles the mind that no hobby shops seem to stock it. I’d like to support a local shop or maker space but it seems like it’s basically Amazon, direct from the manufacturer, or nothing. I feel this too here in Australia. The only place that I know of that stocks it is $10 more per roll, has a single colour, and by all accounts I've read online is garbage quality. I'm impatient and perpetually busy, so I don't often when a idea for a project arises I want to satisfy it -right now- and it takes at least a week to come from my supplier.
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Feb 18, 2022 20:09
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Doctor Zero posted:I really don't understand why they don't either partner with someone, or set up their own distribution hub here. Probably has something to do with it being Josef Prusa's baby project and being unwilling to relinquish the image of quality control he has over it. You just know that as soon as someone here in the US sets up to manufacture/build the printers here they'll take even more shortcuts than he does and you really will be unable to tell a difference between "Original Prusa Printer" and "other 'prusa' printer"
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Feb 18, 2022 20:11
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It is extremely funny how everything Prusa makes has to have “Developed by Joseph Prusa” on it but hey I guess when you have a reputation for quality you get the right to show it off.
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Feb 18, 2022 20:28
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Siraya Tech just released Mecha, a low-friction resin intended for mechanical assemblies. Derived from Fast, so is fast and easy to print, and offers good detail/print resolution. Neat, if it works as claimed. Sounds like a nice offset to Build for gears and multi-piece assemblies that don't demand good mechanical properties at the expense of print accuracy and resolution. ...and just the other day I was wondering what happens if you use graphite powder as a filler in resin. Wouldn't surprise me if it's something in that neighbourhood. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Feb 18, 2022 |
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Feb 18, 2022 20:43
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Ambrose Burnside posted:and just the other day I was wondering what happens if you use graphite powder as a filler in resin. Wouldn't surprise me if it's something in that neighbourhood. As someone that works with compounds that have graphite powder in them, that might be a bad idea because the graphite powder component we use is extremely conductive and flammable.
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Feb 18, 2022 21:16
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Talorat posted:It is extremely funny how everything Prusa makes has to have “Developed by Joseph Prusa” on it but hey I guess when you have a reputation for quality you get the right to show it off. Don't forget his smug loving face is the company logo. 
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Feb 18, 2022 21:24
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his name is even on printers he didn't make!
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Feb 18, 2022 21:25
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They also seem to insist on printing their printers instead of using proper mass manufacturing lol.
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Feb 18, 2022 21:32
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Isometric Bacon posted:I feel this too here in Australia. The only place that I know of that stocks it is $10 more per roll, has a single colour, and by all accounts I've read online is garbage quality. No Jaycar near you? Mine has a decent assortment of PLA and ABS at least. There is of course a retail markup but they've had the Flashforge on clearance (I think they're switching to eSun) so around $26 for a 1kg spool.
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Feb 18, 2022 22:06
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Ethics_Gradient posted:No Jaycar near you? Mine has a decent assortment of PLA and ABS at least. There is of course a retail markup but they've had the Flashforge on clearance (I think they're switching to eSun) so around $26 for a 1kg spool. Oh nice! Jaycar was actually what I was referring to. It was $35 for a kilo spool and they only had black last I looked at the one near me. I read online once 'never buy jaycar filament' and it stuck. I can't remember the brand they had at the time but I thought it was a generic one. Sounds like I've been under the wrong impression. How's the flashforge filament? I've been exclusively using eSun / cubictech at the moment (only because it was recommended to me, and I've never had any issues with it - open to trying something new) with their pla+ being about $25 / kg, but they do charge shipping so I end up waiting until I need a bulk order of a bunch of colours. Jaycar stocking eSun will suit me nicely.
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Feb 18, 2022 22:13
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you may be aware that i'm generally a pretty big fan of prusa printers, but even i will agree that Josef Prusa himself is clearly an egomaniac.
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Feb 18, 2022 22:30
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Isometric Bacon posted:Oh nice! Yeah, the eSun is $40/1kg (their normal price), but the Flashforge that they're trying to clear out is down to something like $26 after the club discount. That's actually about what it goes for on eBay so I'm not mad at all. They are OoS online but if you put in your postcode you can see if your local one still has some in stock. Mine has had it hanging around for a month or two so doesn't seem to be flying off the shelves. I've had no issues with the FlashForge, aside from all the unopened 3DFillies I picked up secondhand recently I've only been buying generic Chinese stuff on eBay, which has also been fine.
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Feb 18, 2022 22:32
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Sagebrush posted:you may be aware that i'm generally a pretty big fan of prusa printers, but even i will agree that Josef Prusa himself is clearly an egomaniac. I have made enough mods to my printers that I am going to electro pencil my name on them, just for spite
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Feb 18, 2022 22:50
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Sagebrush posted:you may be aware that i'm generally a pretty big fan of prusa printers, but even i will agree that Josef Prusa himself is clearly an egomaniac. i used to not be able to remember his first name and guessed a bunch at "gregor prusa" or "Karl Prusa" etc whenever it came up. now i do it deliberately because i know it would gall him to no end
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Feb 18, 2022 23:00
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Isometric Bacon posted:I've been exclusively using eSun / cubictech at the moment (only because it was recommended to me, and I've never had any issues with it - open to trying something new) with their pla+ being about $25 / kg, but they do charge shipping so I end up waiting until I need a bulk order of a bunch of colours. If you're not chasing the absolute lowest price, Polyterra from 3dprintingsolutions.com.au is really nice, and I've found the current filament from Bilby3D to be reliable. Bilby ABS works well and I printed a whole Voron out of it without issue. Shapenerd in WA also stocks eSun and I've used them before, more than happy with the shipping time to the east coast even with the border issues.
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Feb 18, 2022 23:08
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So I was going to start setting up OctoPrint on the Pi3 that came with my Ender this morning, and I noticed there's a version called Octo4a that you can install on a stock Android phone as well. Not that I necessarily have any other plans for the Pi, but I do have my old Galaxy S7 Edge gathering dust in a drawer. Curious if anyone else has tried using it and what your experience is like. I still have the Quadlock case so getting it mounted securely shouldn't be an issue at all.
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Feb 18, 2022 23:27
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Ethics_Gradient posted:So I was going to start setting up OctoPrint on the Pi3 that came with my Ender this morning, and I noticed there's a version called Octo4a that you can install on a stock Android phone as well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74xdib_-X38 Yeah you can definitely do it, here's a great video on it!
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Feb 19, 2022 01:33
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Roundboy posted:I have cardboard, no foamcore but I can get it cheap. I used foamboard becuase I had it, it was litteral trash. No, my spool is on top. I had a plastic bag taped over a hole in the box on top of the printer, that covered the spool This doesn't need to be sophisticated. Just needs to cover it. ------------------------------- Bearings arrived a day early! Yay. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Feb 19, 2022 |
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Feb 19, 2022 01:46
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The saga of camera mounting has begun. I happen to have a shitton of those ELP USB cameras in different forms, fisheye, zoom, etc with 8MP and 4k sensors. I found a mount to print that just takes the board. So I printed and yanked the guts out of one, and the plug is in the center (mount has it offset a bit). Yank the guts out of another, center. And another, center. Fourth time's the charm, eh? Mount is in the right spot. Snaps in snugly. Take the standard 90° lens and mount it to the board, and the focal length is all hosed up. Good thing I have a bunch of different lenses. Time to mix and match.
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Feb 19, 2022 04:07
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insta posted:I told you explicitly they were going to die. And.. would you believe, I believed you? It appears I bought the bearings when you told me to. I just forgot I had them...
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Feb 19, 2022 06:32
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My Prusa Mini just showed up yesterday and I realized I forgot to order any filament. My main use is probably woodworking jigs/fixtures/dust collector adapters. Is PLA fine for that, or would PETG or ASA be better? I have never printed anything before and haven't even gotten the thing out of the box yet.
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Feb 19, 2022 15:33
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It generally depends on what temperatures you expect it to be exposed to. Generally for indoor use PLA should be fine. It mostly softens up in hot car temperatures, like over 122 F/50C. It's also the easiest to print and there are blends that focus on temperature resistance. If it's going to be right next to a motor, a heater, or you're drilling in it regularly (I'm thinking like a copy of a kreg pocket hole jig) you'd want to look at something that can handle a little more heat. It's not a bad idea to get some of everything and try it out but I'd say 95%+ of what I print is in PLA. ASA is probably not something you need to have on hand unless you know you want UV and temperature resistance. Most printers come with some sample filament. The Prusa kit says it has 2x25g samples of PLA which isn't a lot of filament but will get you printing some cubes and maybe a benchy to make sure it's working correctly. The sample filament from other manufacturers is usually garbage but prusa makes their own filament and it's supposed to be good.
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Feb 19, 2022 15:47
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Can anyone tell me why my first few layers with Inland PETG+ are such crap? I've tried calibrating the extruder, lowering the bed temp to 70C, lowering the nozzle temp to 240C, and turning the part cooling fan off. I don't have any issues elsewhere in the print. There's no indication of any problems with the z-offset (I think) and I'm leveling with a BLTouch. 
Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Feb 19, 2022 |
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Feb 19, 2022 16:01
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You're to close to the bed, or overextruding. What you're seeing there is excess plastic "getting out" from the first few layers before the excess plastic can end up in the infill. "lowered the bed to 70" is mildly concerning, but unrelated to what is happening. Superslicer has an extrusion test that is really very good. You should run that. Alternatively post some photos of the bottom, and top layers of a completed print. We can tell from there, with some confidence.
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Feb 19, 2022 20:17
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If you're printing on textured PEI, PETG needs an ultra clean plate and to be just baaarely too far from the bed (compared with what you might do on a smooth plate with PLA, for example). You want great adhesion, but also enough room that the second layer isn't messy at all. It's sort of a weird balance.
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Feb 19, 2022 23:02
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somebody gave me an idea for augmenting/replacing my resin flexplate’s failing adhesive: putting strong neodymium bar magnets along the edges of the angled top side of the bed, where the aluminium is thinnest and the magnetic attraction of the flexplate is significant despite the separation. grabbed a pack of epoxy-dipped 60lb magnets and giving them a whirl. a really ideal solution would be to counterbore some holes in the aluminium face of the bed and epoxy neodymium magnets flush with the surface, completely replacing the magnetic adhesive sheet altogether. new print bed assemblies are actually pretty cheap, if i had machine shop access i’d probably buy a second head and take a crack at boring some pockets, i bet you could get a much higher holding force on the spring sheet that way
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Feb 20, 2022 00:14
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I have all but given up on trying to print the rest of this Amazon basics petg. It needs so much hand holding and tweaking it's just not worth my time. PLA+ is much easier and now that abs is in my reach, I have no need for petg. I mean, I feel saucy sometimes and throw it on to print something fun, but I end up canceling the print due to extreme stringing. It could be a brand thing, but I really have no need for it specifically.
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Feb 20, 2022 00:16
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Roundboy posted:I have all but given up on trying to print the rest of this Amazon basics petg. It needs so much hand holding and tweaking it's just not worth my time. PLA+ is much easier and now that abs is in my reach, I have no need for petg. I use tough pla for 90% of what I use but Petg is still really nice for anything outside where you want the temp resistance Nf extra toughness. Now abs, I've only really used it for my voron parts and I'm not sure I really have a day to day use for it. Really annoying to print, and pretty toxic
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Feb 20, 2022 01:12
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Nerobro posted:You're to close to the bed, or overextruding. What you're seeing there is excess plastic "getting out" from the first few layers before the excess plastic can end up in the infill. Thanks...that failure mode is a new one to me but it explains why the upper layers would look better. I was thinking that maybe the heat from the bed was affecting things lower in the model. I re-calibrated the extruder and took it down from 109 to 105.6, re-leveled the bed, raised the z-offset, and re-ran the print. It looks a lot better this time though not perfect. I'll take the z-offset up another couple notches to see if that helps on the next one.   (the missing chunk is from a bad finish job)   Hypnolobster posted:If you're printing on textured PEI, PETG needs an ultra clean plate and to be just baaarely too far from the bed (compared with what you might do on a smooth plate with PLA, for example). You want great adhesion, but also enough room that the second layer isn't messy at all. It's sort of a weird balance. I just got the PEI plate in yesterday. So far I'm loving it; it beats the poo poo out of glass and glue. Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Feb 20, 2022 |
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Feb 20, 2022 02:45
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You might have over tightened the belts too. I"m seeing a 2mm repeating pattern on your sides there. The extrusion volume looks better, but I can't really read the top with the lighting/reflection going on. Your bottom surface looks fine.
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Feb 20, 2022 03:01
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w00tmonger posted:I use tough pla for 90% of what I use but Petg is still really nice for anything outside where you want the temp resistance Nf extra toughness. Holding a pla benchy or cube vs an abs one I can feel the significant difference in strength I was afraid of the mythical abs dragon and that is what the voron was for, but I have since printed my own minor parts on the ender with the equivalent of a hobo sleeping under cardboard boxes. Maybe it was overreacting, maybe this hatchbox abs is really special, but aside from some very tedious tweaking my prints are just fine Granted I am not ina vented enclosure, and I need to periodically vent the laundry room I am in, but this is not a permanent solution. .
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Feb 20, 2022 03:07
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So I think I have a problem that is nonsense of my own creating, but I would like a second opinion. A few weeks ago I moved my printer, from my desk to the floor. Right after, my prints were failing on first layer, so I releveled the bed, thinking maybe it got jostled out of alignment. Worked fine for many hours of printing. I recently didn't use the printer for about a month, and now my prints are failing again. I know I shifted the printer around on the floor since then. I am wondering if each time I move the printer on the floor, I put some sort of torsion into the frame. I am going to re-level again tomorrow. I have a 120+ year old house, if you drop a ball on the floor it will roll away, picking up speed. Is this sensible? If I have warped surface the printer is on, could shifting the printer around on that surface throw the bed level out of whack? Then the next question I have is, what can I place under the printer to bring it into flatness? I, of course, would love to buy a calibrated granite surface plate, but maybe something cheaper... Ender 3v2, stock
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Feb 20, 2022 05:34
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