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mewse posted:Too much power draw on the pi maybe? Maybe? Power over uart was suggested as one cause vs direct power But, I printers for 20+ hours no issue while looking at the camera all the time. Now temps are higher but the power draw for that is from the mains, not the btt direct Which logs show a rpi power issue?
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Mar 7, 2022 11:18
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If you use custom power, i.e. a 5V PSU, the Pis are designed with 5.1V in mind. That doesn't sound like anything, but has been the cause for many headaches. Also, snail posted:Klicky should have been official 2.4R2. Prove me wrong.
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Mar 7, 2022 11:49
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Roundboy posted:Maybe? Power over uart was suggested as one cause vs direct power Assuming a stock Pi, and and OS with an underlying Raspbian or other Pi-specific Linux flavour: code:code:code:
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Mar 7, 2022 12:43
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Assuming a stock Pi, and and OS with an underlying Raspbian or other Pi-specific Linux flavour: Interesting I get Throttled=0x0 Soo okay? Regardless it is finishing up a 9h+ print at a bed of 100c and hotend at 235. Running 200mm/s. So power draw does not seem like an issue. Pi temp holds steady at 30c. But I realize I was not crashed since a reboot. I'll force it and see Going to reintroduce the thermistor and webcam, I think it's just a resource issue with the cam I need to track down. It was sucking up all system free space and swap, so maybe the mpeg streaming got a bit borked somehow. Roundboy fucked around with this message at 14:09 on Mar 7, 2022 |
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Mar 7, 2022 14:07
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If any system, Linux or Windows, needs to hit swap considerably, the system is done for in regards to responsivity (both UI and any running services). I know what Pi's are hard to get by, but for the love of god, try to get at least a Pi 3 for the 1GB of RAM.
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Mar 7, 2022 14:38
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Combat Pretzel posted:If any system, Linux or Windows, needs to hit swap considerably, the system is done for in regards to responsivity (both UI and any running services). I know what Pi's are hard to get by, but for the love of god, try to get at least a Pi 3 for the 1GB of RAM. a pi zero 2 runs my other printer + cam with no issue for months now. it -was- running this no problem. And i think i tracked it down. I commented out all lines in webcam.txt which seemed to also want to start up a new stream. with a line running there i was unable to add a new MJPEG Adaptive camera to the system, only a stream which would suffer. cleaning out webcam.txt lets me add a camera however i desire and seems to be running fine, also with the new thermistor added. It might have just needed to have everything reset a bit
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Mar 7, 2022 15:52
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Althalin posted:SLA question: The utility room is ideal. Even if you put it in a grow tent, the resin and cleaning process makes a godawful mess, so I wouldn't put a printer in a bedroom IMO.
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Mar 7, 2022 16:29
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Is there a way to get prusa slicer to print objects one at a time in sequence instead of layer by layer for the whole set? I have a couple of rolls that are nearly dead that I want to finish off.
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Mar 7, 2022 18:52
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Talorat posted:Is there a way to get prusa slicer to print objects one at a time in sequence instead of layer by layer for the whole set? I have a couple of rolls that are nearly dead that I want to finish off. You sure can, look for sequential printing in the settings or on their wiki.
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Mar 7, 2022 19:21
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Talorat posted:Is there a way to get prusa slicer to print objects one at a time in sequence instead of layer by layer for the whole set? I have a couple of rolls that are nearly dead that I want to finish off. Print settings -> output -> complete individual objects Note that the "arrange on plate" command is not smart enough to arrange things for optimal printing; they'll print in the order the models are listed in the display to the right of the plater. You can drag stuff around in that list to reorder it.
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Mar 7, 2022 19:28
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Perfect! Thank you both!
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Mar 7, 2022 19:45
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Trip report: ABS is great! Totally worth the effort to get the enclosure in shape. Printed a 45 hr Glow in the Dark Moon Lamp and it came out really well.  
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Mar 7, 2022 20:17
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I put a second z screw on my Ender and holy crap it’s like a whole new machine No more weird layers and z offset changing between and mid prints
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Mar 8, 2022 13:43
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That sounds really useful. Is that something I can Google videos on?
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Mar 8, 2022 13:53
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Any specific kit that you recommend?
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Mar 8, 2022 13:53
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Holy poo poo, who else has a CR-6? I installed the 6.1 Community Firmware, and figured out why the machine was so hit and miss. Apparently the Creality firmware is known for randomly loving up the z offset wildly, which is exactly what I was seeing happen. With the new Community Firmware, I've not had that be an issue anymore.
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Mar 8, 2022 15:53
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I used the Hictop kit for $40 on Amazon. It has a y cable to split the power to both motors which theoretically can cause an issue in some applications but I couldn’t find anyone describing a specific problem.
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Mar 8, 2022 16:46
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Thanks. Looks like the Creality's own upgrade also comes with the split cable, if my google-fu is correct.
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Mar 8, 2022 18:50
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https://orbiterprojects.com/a-benchmark-of-extruders A neat comparison of extruders.
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Mar 8, 2022 23:32
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Just noticed my hot end is oozing filament out from under the silicone cover, I assume I must rebuild my hot end now. Any tips for tackling this? Ender3v2 is my printer.
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Mar 10, 2022 00:57
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GotDonuts posted:Just noticed my hot end is oozing filament out from under the silicone cover, I assume I must rebuild my hot end now. Any tips for tackling this? You probably didn’t tighten your nozzle properly and left a gap between nozzle and heatbreak. Leave hot end hot, with cover off. Scrape off all the oozed filament while it’s warm. Remove nozzle, replace properly (you don’t want to have the nozzle tight against the heater block, you want to have some space there, and then have it tightened up til it contacts the heatbreak inside the heater block.) E: and if I sounded critical I didn’t mean it - I had the exact same experience of oozing filament due to not tightening properly. Good news is that once you tighten the nozzle properly, it’ll work - you almost certainly haven’t permanently damaged anything.
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Mar 10, 2022 01:00
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Kalman posted:You probably didn’t tighten your nozzle properly and left a gap between nozzle and heatbreak. Before you replace the nozzle, extrude a couple of cms of filament - enough so that any gunk inside the hot end comes out - and cut it off, then retract it a few more cms than you extruded to be on the safe side. I'd also get on the threads with an old toothbrush or something while it's still hot just to get any little winnets that might have been left behind but that's probably not absolutely required.
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Mar 10, 2022 01:07
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GotDonuts posted:Just noticed my hot end is oozing this is a pretty good quote without the context
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Mar 10, 2022 01:17
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Awesome, thanks so much for the tips, this will be a tomorrow after work project. I did just replace the nozzle so I am sure this is the issue.
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Mar 10, 2022 01:19
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Kalman posted:Leave hot end hot, with cover off. Scrape off all the oozed filament while it’s warm. To be clear, heat the hotend, then turn off the heater. It can be easy to short the heater or thermistor while doing this, so no power to the heater is a good thing. In my past derpitude, I have wrecked control boards working on a live heater.
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Mar 10, 2022 02:22
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It's also easier to get the filament goop off after it cools down a little anyway. Do it while it's super hot and you're basically trying to scrape a liquid off the hotend. Catch it as it cools and you can pull it off in big, satisfying chunks. You might even get the whole blob off in one shot.
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Mar 10, 2022 03:22
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Chainclaw posted:this is a pretty good quote without the context New title
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Mar 10, 2022 03:48
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Got my mk3s+ all setup and I'm really loving it! Ender 3 v2 was a great starting point but I really appreciate the design features and overall quality of this prusa. Do you guys use z-hop on your prusa? I remember it being pretty detrimental for an ender 3 but obviously this moves much quicker and more accurately.
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Mar 10, 2022 04:37
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Z-hop is on by default on the Prusa Mini's filament profiles, so I imagine it would be the same for the MK3S? I honestly have zero reason to ever gently caress with slicer settings beyond which layer thickness setting I pick and whether to generate supports or not.
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Mar 10, 2022 13:30
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Voron 2.4 350mm kit has been ordered from Formbot. Wish me luck!
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Mar 10, 2022 13:36
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Z-hop is on by default on the Prusa Mini's filament profiles, so I imagine it would be the same for the MK3S? Yea it's on by default for the mk3s+ too. I don't plan on doing too much tweaking, I realize they've already done that work. I'm sure there are some adjustments that can be made for retracts depending on the material.
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Mar 10, 2022 19:47
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When I first got my MK3 I saw z-hop was on by default and I considered turning it off, since print quality was better on my original workhorse printer with z-hop off. But then I let go of the idea of settings as absolutes and decided to run it as is, never looked back.
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Mar 10, 2022 19:55
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I absolutely would not 3D-print anything for a toddler to play with, both for the reasons Roundboy stated and also because you cannot guarantee that your particular design/print won't break in a way that leaves sharp edges. Yeah, toddler no, but as they get older consider the age of the kid and what they're like with toys. I occasionally print a whole bunch of largeish figures or toy cars aligned with my kids interest in white PLA+, and as a family activity get my children to paint them using acrylic paint and brushes, which I cover with a clearcoat afterwards. My oldest was 4 when I started, (now 6) and we started letting my youngest play with the toys around 3.5 or so. Both are good with their toys and never put anything in their mouths. If I ever see it happen, I'd take it away (and any other choking hazard sized toys). But I always print mostly large figures and up their perimeters for strength, or avoid small models. The ones that get used as toys also go in their own special shoebox with the understanding that they are more fragile than their regular toys.
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Mar 10, 2022 21:42
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mattfl posted:Voron 2.4 350mm kit has been ordered from Formbot. Wish me luck! I just ordered a 2.4 350 kit as well! Yayyyyy
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Mar 10, 2022 23:33
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dexefiend posted:I just ordered a 2.4 350 kit as well! You order from formbot? What hotend did you go with? I wanted it shipped from china since that seems to be the quickest option and my only choice was the dragon standard, which I'm fine with.
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Mar 10, 2022 23:51
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old formbot was poor. later formbot was okay. recent formbot might NOT be okay due to the recent change to R2 spec stuff. It will work, 100% but there is lots of new stuff on the table so you might need to pay close attention to the parts you have in hand vs the latest manual. A dragon SF is a perfectly fine hotend. I am seeing people complaining about some wrongly wired stuff from formbot lately, so pay attention to the harness
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Mar 10, 2022 23:55
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Is anybody aware of a reasonable workflow for directly editing the pixel masks of resin print files? I know UVtools will let me hand-paint pixels in, but I need sth closer to a proper raster image editor, or better yet sth within Solidworks or other CAD platforms. Alternately, can anybody recommend any Brutally Simple charsets, ideally stuff intended for CNC/CAD use? Context: I’m trying to implement the absolute smallest raised lettering I can in my casting molds, but all the fonts I can find have tons of extraneous styling and spline nodes that will all disappear at my scales, even if they’re very simple sans serifs/system fonts. Control over line weight and spacing is critical, because any gaps under X width or raised lines thinner than Y etc will fail, either filling in or failing to print to full height, producing an illegible character in the final casting. In addition, trying to print a couple hundred characters using most professional fonts becomes massively resource-intensive in Solidworks, makes print files enormous for no reason, and the little style touches just create unpredictable and unwanted character shapes when it all gets crunched down to pixels for the LCD masking. I need simpler and lower-frills than a system font, and that seems like a tall order. I wanna do some test prints where I hand-paint a bunch of different characters at the pixel level to see what the minimum scale is to get legible, low-failure-rate tiny lettering, but once I have that established idk how to transfer that over to the CAD design part of things, so I can copy-paste whatever text in and get the exact charset i’ve worked out. The best idea I have is to author a font set using best-fit vector lines laid over the pixel designs, such that the pixel output is reliably produced from the vector if the text is added at a precise indicated scale… but I think even that could get kludgy anywhere things don’t line up cleanly with the pixel grid. I want a font where the pixel print file output will always be the same for any given character, p much. Is that realistic to implement? Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Mar 11, 2022 |
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Mar 11, 2022 18:33
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I hope I’m understanding right because when I answer questions from bed I’m usually not  Fonts suck always. I think the way I would go about doing this is installing a Simplex font and using a 2D tool like Inkscape. When installing a font to use with Inkscape on Windows, note that you have to install it for all users. Adobe illustrator or Corel Draw both ought to work, I just don’t have much time with either of them. Simplex fonts are a single vector stroke - they’re designed for engraving. What you can do in Inkscape, though, is convert the font from an object to a path (despite the mechanics of Simplex fonts, Inkscape still recognizes them as text objects). From there you can control the stroke weight, stretch or squash, etc. to work with your pixel aspect ratio as you need, export as a DXF and insert that into your SOLIDWORKS document. I’m not sure if Simplex will work 100%, but it is where I would start. I’m sure there are lots of engraving type fonts that will work. If you want to go REALLY weird, my last second mad scientist idea is that you could make a bitmap of whatever text you want, save it as a 3D Texture for SOLIDWORKS and you get all kinds of alignment, raising, and aspect ratio controls from there. It may be faster to iterate from that step instead of doing the entire Inkscape pathway, though that is more repeatable.
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Mar 12, 2022 16:47
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Any clue what's going on here? Printikg a small, square tower with zero infill and a single perimeter to work on my Z lines.  Most sides of the tower looks okay:  This one has the seam. Still looks pretty good:  Then... On the X+ face, I get this:  I'm using a Prusa MK3S with a MMU2s, 0.25mm nozzle, 0.15 layer height and eSun PLA+.
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Mar 12, 2022 22:14
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Is there any thread lube or grease I can use on the nozzle threads and heatbreak threads that will facilitate easy on and off? I tried to clean a major abs leak and ended up snapping a dragon hf heatbreak to the block. I have a new one coming, but I don't want to repeat the future Sure, I can just avoid screwups in the future, but it's nice for threads not to get completely borked.
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Mar 13, 2022 16:24
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