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Hutla
Jun 5, 2004

It's mechanical
If you transplant directly into the fancy pot, you need to remove the drainage plug so that you don't drown the roots. Water it in the shower or something and let it drain there. If you leave it in a plastic pot and just slip it inside the pretty one, you remove the inner pot to water, drain, then replace.

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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Hutla posted:

If you transplant directly into the fancy pot, you need to remove the drainage plug so that you don't drown the roots. Water it in the shower or something and let it drain there. If you leave it in a plastic pot and just slip it inside the pretty one, you remove the inner pot to water, drain, then replace.

ok thanks, yeah I was kind of confused by that. seems like it would be better to have one you insert from the bottom (but is still thin enough to it sits flat), so you could plug it back in when it's transplanted

I'm interested in transplanting more for aesthetics right now, but I'm not sure if taking it out of the plastic planter will cause any harm. some places have been super stern about basically never doing that, and instead using some moss or whatever to cover the top of the plastic planter, just for appearance sake. but it's a 10" planter and a 12" pot so think it should be fine.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

actionjackson posted:

For my bamboo palm, I noticed that on the bottom of the stems there are these greenish brown husks, that sometimes are peeling off a bit. some of them have new buds growing out of them, but some of them have leaves that are just kind of sagging or are brown. I assume for the latter I should just take these off, but keep the husks on the new buds?

You can take them off if you want. It's pretty common for plants to discard some of their leaves for various reasons. In general if a plant is doing so "intentionally" (the plant doesn't want that leaf anymore, as opposed to it rotting off or something) it'll suck most of the good poo poo out. Once it's dessicated you can just cut it off or remove it in whatever way isn't going to harm the plant. You can also remove leaves that just don't look nice because they're starting that process, though it's not to the benefit of the plant.

As far as specifically around new buds goes they might protect them from the elements when the plant is growing outdoors, but it's probably not doing much of anything in your house.


actionjackson posted:

I'm interested in transplanting more for aesthetics right now, but I'm not sure if taking it out of the plastic planter will cause any harm. some places have been super stern about basically never doing that, and instead using some moss or whatever to cover the top of the plastic planter, just for appearance sake. but it's a 10" planter and a 12" pot so think it should be fine.

I can't really imagine why unless they're assuming that the plastic planter has drainage holes and the one you're going to put it into doesn't. Don't put plants in things without drainage holes.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Mar 9, 2022

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

thanks - I also removed a few small leaves that had some brownish color or holes

Pikey
Dec 25, 2004
I'm not sure if this is the right thread for it, but I've got a few questions about fiddle leaf fig propagation. I've had a few successful rounds of air laying larger branches that were growing out of control, but my latest round isn't producing roots on the 2 branches I'm trying to propagate.

1. When I peel the bark, should it purely be from a internodal space, or should I peel the bark from the node as well?
2. Do i need to peel from around the entire diameter of the branch or is only part of it sufficient?
3. Is it better to put rooting hormone on the section of that was peeled, or on the nearest node?

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Pikey posted:

1. When I peel the bark, should it purely be from a internodal space, or should I peel the bark from the node as well?
2. Do i need to peel from around the entire diameter of the branch or is only part of it sufficient?
3. Is it better to put rooting hormone on the section of that was peeled, or on the nearest node?

Folks in the Bonsai thread can probably write you a whole book about air layering, but:

In general it's done right below a node, though I've seen a few people align their top cut to the midline of the node.

While I don't think it's necessary to peel an entire ring I also don't think it's great to have damp sphagnum pressed up against the bark you'd leave behind. You can probably get away with it if that's what you want to do, though.

You want the hormone where it's peeled so that it can actually get into the plant.

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



I really really really need to prune my fruit trees.

and I am putting it off because I'm TERRIFIED that I'm gonna gently caress it up somehow. But I have to do it, and I have to do it SOON.



Last year I trimmed 2 or 3 small branches off of one of my peach trees mid-season because they were growing inward, and it somehow hosed up the limb's center of gravity or something about how it caught the wind so bad that an entire major limb broke off the main trunk. It was horrible. There was sap everywhere. I don't want that to happen again. :gonk:

Help me

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006


Here you go:

Wallet posted:

Tree Pruning Essentials - A decent primer from Purdue's extension on how and why to prune your trees.

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



Wallet posted:

Here you go:

thank you



EDIT: ... but drat whoever wrote this thing did a shitass job on it. Not nearly enough diagrams or bullet-points, and the ones that are there are tough to read for reasons I can't entirely put my finger on, but I feel like they could've been easily fixed by someone who knew a drat about graphic design.

Like, it's good info, and I know it's all important, but my brain doesn't want to commit to 20 whole pages of text just to cut some tree branches. Please just give me the broad strokes and save the rest of the fancy why-science for later.

I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Mar 14, 2022

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

We're getting our first nice weather so I was out doing my tree pruning for the year. My Galanthus are already up so I guess it's spring now.



I. M. Gei posted:

Like, it's good info, and I know it's all important, but my brain doesn't want to commit to 20 whole pages of text just to cut some tree branches. Please just give me the broad strokes and save the rest of the fancy why-science for later.

The why part is pretty important since beyond a basic understanding of the actual mechanics of removing a limb the vast majority of pruning is about choosing what to take off and what not to.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


A camellia my great grandfather bred. It has huge blooms-5” or so across- and just a few little white streaks. I really need to get it in the ground.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

A camellia my great grandfather bred. It has huge blooms-5” or so across- and just a few little white streaks. I really need to get it in the ground.

I've heard rumors that some can survive in 6 but I'm afraid it's probably like the nonsense with crape myrtles where the Arboretum hybrids are "hardy" to 6 but that actually just means you get to keep the roots after your tree/shrub dies to the ground every year.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!


come on.........come on..........


it’s still too early in the season, but it’s soooo tempting to start bringing stuff out

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.

Ok Comboomer posted:



come on.........come on..........


it’s still too early in the season, but it’s soooo tempting to start bringing stuff out

We have one day with a 33-degree overnight low on the 10-day forecast. I just got my blueberries in the mail and planted them anyway.

Precious indoor babies will have to wait a little longer.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Chad Sexington posted:

We have one day with a 33-degree overnight low on the 10-day forecast. I just got my blueberries in the mail and planted them anyway.

Precious indoor babies will have to wait a little longer.

it’s still too risky for my cacti/succulents and citrus

like they’d probably survive but it’s a good way to give everybody a bad fungal infection

Hirayuki
Mar 28, 2010


The high here is 70 today and looking at my poor dead yard is killing me. But I've lived in Michigan all my life, and I know it's about a month and a half too early to do anything out there and expect it to survive. Heck, the temps will be back in the low 50s tomorrow.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013
It’s been 40-50 here for a month and probably another month. The ferns that I put in on the north side of the house are really happy about it and the hellebores are still looking nice. Hopefully they’ll fill the space really nicely next year. A few of the ferns should give a little color in the autumn which will be really nice on a darker pathway.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Ok Comboomer posted:

come on.........come on..........
Samesies. I've just been cleaning up old dead foliage and pruning poo poo while I wait. My crocus have barely started to come up so it's definitely still too early for much else.

I called to order mulch on Tuesday since that's something else I could do productively in the garden and the place I usually order from told me they won't even have any for another two or three weeks.

Jhet posted:

It’s been 40-50 here for a month and probably another month. The ferns that I put in on the north side of the house are really happy about it and the hellebores are still looking nice. Hopefully they’ll fill the space really nicely next year. A few of the ferns should give a little color in the autumn which will be really nice on a darker pathway.

I got 3 or 4 of one of the Drypteris erythrosora cultivars last year because one of the local nurseries had them super cheap at the end of the season and they look pristine despite being under inches of snow a week past. My hellebores got crushed pretty good, though.

Annath
Jan 11, 2009

Batatouille is a great and funny play on words for a video game creature and I love silly words like these
Clever Betty
I hope this is the correct thread for this question:

I live in Central Virginia, USA, and I want to plant some Fuyu Persimmon Trees.

I've never planted anything more complicated than a tomato.

Is there a quick and dirty list of things that I should be aware of?

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
You dig a hole and put the tree in.

It goes something like this.



Don’t dig the hole too deep. Don’t dig the hole too narrow. Do much in a ring around the tree, but don’t pile it against the trunk.

If your tree comes potted, disrupt the roots and soil around the edges with your (gloved) fingers and a hose so that it’s not a featureless cylinder anymore and is encouraged to send its roots out into the backfilled soil.

I rarely amend the soil. I just put what came out of the hole back in. Don’t leave air pockets, but don’t mash the soil down with all your might, either. Water thoroughly after planting and regularly throughout the tree’s first year. Before it grows a deep and extensive root system, it’s vulnerable to drought.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Platystemon posted:

You dig a hole and put the tree in.
Did you draw that just for us? :3: (Don't tell me the truth. I don't want to know)

All good advice, but to expand on a few things since I have nowhere to plant more trees and yet remain compelled to read about tree planting techniques:

Current research into tree planting in particular (also shrubs, seems to matter less for non-woody perennials) suggests that the best thing to put in a planting hole is exactly what you dug out of it. Adding some fertilizer or whatever is fine, but significantly changing the soil composition is ultimately to the detriment of root development as roots are disinclined to grow across significant gradients in soil composition or compaction.

We've also been moving towards more aggressive treatment of the root ball before planting. You definitely want to loosen the edges with your fingers or a rake and remove any roots that are circling as they can eventually girdle your tree and kill it, but it seems significantly beneficial to go quite a bit further and fully bare root trees (by soaking or using a hose) before planting, both to encourage the roots not to stay within the original medium and also because container medium tends to drain sharply compared to what you'd find in the ground. Don't hose down your tree roots if it's still cold where you are, though. That would be bad.

Lastly, from what I've read the ideal hole shape/size is going to depend on the soil composition. If you're planting into clay soils or soil with high compaction you definitely want a big shallow hole (probably with a flat bottom, ideally) because you otherwise run the risk of creating a bathtub for your trees roots to drown in every time it rains. In soil that's closer to loam and isn't compacted it seems like not digging the hole any bigger than you need to is preferable.

Annath
Jan 11, 2009

Batatouille is a great and funny play on words for a video game creature and I love silly words like these
Clever Betty
Where I am am in VA there's a lot of red clay, so I guess I'll go for broader and shallower.

I'm hopeful the trees do well. We have a fig tree that's done wonderfully. This past year we got more figs than we could handle. I'm hoping a few years down the line we'll be in a similar boat with persimmons.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

Platystemon posted:

If your tree comes potted, disrupt the roots and soil around the edges with your (gloved) fingers and a hose so that it’s not a featureless cylinder anymore and is encouraged to send its roots out into the backfilled soil.

I rarely amend the soil. I just put what came out of the hole back in. Don’t leave air pockets, but don’t mash the soil down with all your might, either. Water thoroughly after planting and regularly throughout the tree’s first year. Before it grows a deep and extensive root system, it’s vulnerable to drought.

Why gloved? Bad fertilizer stuff to touch or glass in the fill dirt or something?

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Why gloved? Bad fertilizer stuff to touch or glass in the fill dirt or something?

so that you don’t accidentally shred the end of your nail bed with a sharp piece of mulch, etc

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Ok Comboomer posted:

so that you don’t accidentally shred the end of your nail bed with a sharp piece of mulch, etc

Yeah. If you're doing it right it isn't like you're gently rubbing the root ball, you want to be pretty brisk.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Wallet posted:

I got 3 or 4 of one of the Drypteris erythrosora cultivars last year because one of the local nurseries had them super cheap at the end of the season and they look pristine despite being under inches of snow a week past. My hellebores got crushed pretty good, though.

I do have one of those, it’s the Autumn Brilliance cultivar. The other ferns are a Dryopteris lepidopoda which will also color change in the autumn and a pair of Dryopteris wallichiana Wallich’s wood fern which are supposedly native to the area. Also an Asplenium ebenoides which needs me to go plant already.

I also put in a Golden Bay Laurel and get to now debate all my other shrub plans because the work I put into the Japanese Spindle bushes last year has paid off and they’re not getting terrorized by mildew anymore. I’ll probably stick with the plan, but it’s going to be empty in that space for a couple years at least.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

In indoor news I had no idea the flowers on Cotyledon tomentosa were so cute. I'd never seen them before:


It rained all day yesterday but it was clear enough today to prune back my ornamental grasses (my least favorite spring chore). I didn't take a picture of the lone crocus that is now half open,, but this might be my favorite part of the year for the (true) sedums.









As any aside, it seems like the app and the site handle larger images fine these days instead of the tables just exploding and the way TIMG works makes it annoying if you actually want to see the image at a decent size. Does it still matter to people or am I wasting my time converting img tags?

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED
Whatever you did for those looks awesome. I like being able to zoom in on the flower which is super pretty and tropical looking :eyepop:

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

a few of the leaves on my bamboo palms have a bit of brown, but just a really tiny amount on the tip (lol), should these be removed immediately?

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Whatever you did for those looks awesome. I like being able to zoom in on the flower which is super pretty and tropical looking :eyepop:

That's just regular rear end img tags. No idea how you're zooming unless you mean non-literally or with your browser. (Also I believe the Cotyledon is from South African quartz fields)


actionjackson posted:

a few of the leaves on my bamboo palms have a bit of brown, but just a really tiny amount on the tip (lol), should these be removed immediately?

This is pretty common for more tropical plants indoors because of the (lack of) humidity. No reason to take the whole leaf off. Some people will snip off the tip because they don't like how the brown looks, but I feel like it looks weird to have the end of the leaf be the wrong shape.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Wallet posted:

That's just regular rear end img tags. No idea how you're zooming unless you mean non-literally or with your browser. (Also I believe the Cotyledon is from South African quartz fields)

The browser fits to screen size pretty well now with regular img tags, and the phone app does it well too.

That pebbly looking sedum is really awesome looking. I really enjoy them as ground cover around rocks and inclines. I wish more people used them here, but we get a lot of other drought resistant rock loving plants instead.

Hirayuki
Mar 28, 2010


Wallet posted:


It rained all day yesterday but it was clear enough today to prune back my ornamental grasses (my least favorite spring chore).
How do you do it? We have a handful of ornamental grasses that we've just been letting go and never pruning, but I think they're starting to suffer for it. I'm happy to hear that spring is not too late to trim off the old stuff.

e: It's Karl Foerster grass, if that makes any difference.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Ok Comboomer posted:

so that you don’t accidentally shred the end of your nail bed with a sharp piece of mulch, etc

Yeah it’s this.

I used to do it ungloved, and I never got a deadly infection or anything, but it can be uncomfortable for several days.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Hirayuki posted:

How do you do it? We have a handful of ornamental grasses that we've just been letting go and never pruning, but I think they're starting to suffer for it. I'm happy to hear that spring is not too late to trim off the old stuff.

Spring is the time to do it; the dead stuff provides a bit of insulation for the plant over winter. For hopefully obvious reasons you want to do it before the grass starts putting up new shoots for the year.

It shouldn't really matter what type of grass (as long as it isn't an evergreen Carex or something, those you just want to kind of rake out with your fingers). I have all of mine in hoops so they don't fall over, but usually people will tie a string or something around the dead grass so it doesn't go everywhere and then you just cut it 6 or so inches above the ground with hedge shears (you can do it with smaller pruners but it takes forever).

It's also common for people to divide them at the same time. A lot of ornamental grasses have a tendency to get so dense that they'll die out in the middle leaving you with a weird ring of living grass around a bald spot. Division I definitely wouldn't do in the fall even though I know some people do—in my experience ornamental grasses are extremely sensitive to damp until they are well established. I've had more issues with them rotting out than I have with outdoor loving cacti. Karl Foerster (which is a Calamagrostis hybrid) doesn't seem terribly sensitive relatively speaking, to be fair.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Mar 21, 2022

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



I finally pruned my Redhaven peach tree today. Might post pics tomorrow to make sure I didn't gently caress it up or miss anything. I also topped a bunch of branches which I'm told is helpful for peach trees.

My Belle of Georgia peach is already blooming. I assume this means it's too late to do any major pruning? Although there's a few crossing branches that I probably oughta nip off if it won't hurt the tree for me to do it. It only went in the ground last year, so there shouldn't be a whole lot on there that I need to remove.



I'm not entirely sure how to go about pruning my espalier apple trees. The golden deliciouses that are supposed to pollenate most of the other 9 varieties I planted only went in the ground late last year and were pretty young when they arrived, which means they have a ways to go before they really start flowering. The rest of the trees, all but 4 of them (2 of those other 9 varieties) have a good year-and-a-half or 2-year head start on them (the aforementioned other 4 were planted at the same time as the goldens late last year). Because of this, I'm wondering if I should prune the older trees back down to the trunk, so that maybe they'll all get held back just enough to have a better shot at flowering at the same time as the golden deliciouses, and thus have an easier and better time pollinating each other? How insane is that? Would I just totally kill the trees if I did that?

Bloody Cat Farm
Oct 20, 2010

I can smell your pussy, Clarice.
Went to the NH Orchid Society’s show today. The place was packed. I was able to get some nice orchids.


* Fdk. After Dark 'SVO Black Pearl
* Phalaenopsis schilleriana
* Monnierara Millenium Magic
* Dendrobium stratiotes

I also was able to see this massive Cymbidium Pauwelsii ‘Kessander’. I’m 5’6” for height reference:

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Bloody Cat Farm posted:

Went to the NH Orchid Society’s show today. The place was packed. I was able to get some nice orchids.


* Fdk. After Dark 'SVO Black Pearl
* Phalaenopsis schilleriana
* Monnierara Millenium Magic
* Dendrobium stratiotes

I also was able to see this massive Cymbidium Pauwelsii ‘Kessander’. I’m 5’6” for height reference:



oh snap, I should go this weekend

I don’t think I should spend anything, seeing as I dropped $100 on a 4’ Grammatophylum scriptum, but if they happen to have Gram speciosum props I might break my rule...

Bloody Cat Farm
Oct 20, 2010

I can smell your pussy, Clarice.

Ok Comboomer posted:

oh snap, I should go this weekend

I don’t think I should spend anything, seeing as I dropped $100 on a 4’ Grammatophylum scriptum, but if they happen to have Gram speciosum props I might break my rule...

The vendors are listed on the website. You could always email and ask them! I’m probably not a good influence…

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Bloody Cat Farm posted:

The vendors are listed on the website. You could always email and ask them! I’m probably not a good influence…

hmmm....pretty sure J&L won’t have any, I’ve never seen grams at their facility

Usually whenever I’ve seen grams in the Northeast they are like a special buy from producers in Hawaii/Fl or whatever

Ugh-don’t know whether I want to go for the general Q&A tomorrow or the Paph repotting demo on Sunday

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I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



Welp, I pruned the blooming peach tree. Not a lot, but enough to get rid of the crossing branches.

Hope I didn't kill it.

I also pruned the older of my two cherry trees (I need a stepping stool to prune the other one because of how tall it has grown). I think I still have a bit of time to trim down my apple trees but not a lot, maybe a few days at most. Gonna be a photo finish.

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