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I'm very new to 3D printing, I thought glass beds were preferred?
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Apr 1, 2022 22:39
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Opinionated posted:Really love how the color-shifting came out on this rose vase. Matterhackers Quantum PLA Blue Raspberry "dual extrusion" filament That's loving neato 
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Apr 1, 2022 22:45
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Rhyno posted:I'm very new to 3D printing, I thought glass beds were preferred? No they’re a real pain in the rear end. Switching to PEI was a huge improvement
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Apr 1, 2022 22:46
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Switched to PEI the other day and was severely disappointed. It just would not stick, no matter what I do. Then I realized I had it upside down on the plate, yellow side down.  I upgraded that, yellow springs, and the double Z axis, and the touch sensor, and I keep wondering if I should have just bought an nicer printer from the start.
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Apr 1, 2022 23:13
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gbut posted:Switched to PEI the other day and was severely disappointed. It just would not stick, no matter what I do. Then I realized I had it upside down on the plate, yellow side down. The Ender 3 S-1 comes with all the stuff I upgraded my v2 with for around the same total cost and looks nicer. I just tell myself it was a learning experience.
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Apr 1, 2022 23:29
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Rhyno posted:I'm very new to 3D printing, I thought glass beds were preferred? Textured glass beds like Anycubic and Creality use are still the gold standard in my opinion. If you're planning to crank out a lot of prints in quick succession you might come to prefer a removable spring steel PEI coated thing because you can quickly clear the bed for the next print. Smooth glass beds, like literally "I bought a pane of borosilicate", are a huge hassle and you shouldn't bother now that modern options exist.
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Apr 2, 2022 00:00
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Rhyno posted:I'm very new to 3D printing, I thought glass beds were preferred? Maybe literally seven years ago.
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Apr 2, 2022 00:25
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The Prusa bed design, with PEI-coated spring steel magnetically attached to a PCB heater, is the gold standard. PEI or PEI with glue will hold down essentially any material, and for the very rare cases where you need something different, you can always get a steel plate coated with the bed surface of your choice. For instance I have a Garolite bed dedicated to printing nylon. Removing parts by flexing the plate is 1 million times better than poking and scraping and prying them off glass. Cleaning and degreasing the bed is vastly easier when you can take it off and wash it in the sink without losing your zeroes, instead of having to wipe it down inside the machine. The beds themselves are cheaper and more durable than glass, non-fragile, plenty flat enough (the substrate is what makes them flat), and much easier to replace. I don't miss glass beds at all.
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Apr 2, 2022 00:45
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Rhyno posted:I'm very new to 3D printing, I thought glass beds were preferred? I got pretty good at dealing with glass. You let it cool down to room temperature (or, better yet, basement temperature, which is 15C here), and then spray some rubbing alcohol at the base, and start trying to lift the part off on one side so the alcohol can creep in and break the bond underneath, and eventually the piece will snap off cleanly. It's a pain in the rear end compared to the flexible steel PEI plate, though.
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Apr 2, 2022 00:45
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The Eyes Have It posted:That's loving neato Thanks! I really like the dual extrusion pla:  Tiny Timbs posted:The Ender 3 S-1 comes with all the stuff I upgraded my v2 with for around the same total cost and looks nicer. I just tell myself it was a learning experience. Same  But I couldn't wait the few months for the S1 to release! I'd have to recommend it or the s1 pro depending on material types now if anyone asked me what printer to get, really like what I've seen in reviews.
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Apr 2, 2022 01:00
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I still print exclusively on glass, and will continue to do so unless a plate breaks or I'm forced to change something at gunpoint. It works just fine for everything I do and I can't justify spending money to replace fully functional things. My oldest piece of glass is over 5 years old now, and it hasn't broken yet, so it may be a while before I up/side-grade. This is not to say that I don't fully understand that a nice flexy PEI setup is kind of the poo poo, it's just that I personally haven't needed to switch over to that poo poo just yet.
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Apr 2, 2022 01:08
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cruft posted:This was awesome advice, thank you so much. I am now a convert to the steel sheet, this is so much easier to work with. And the bed spring upgrade is a smart one to do at the same time. Don't know if that's going to make as much of a difference as not having to hack at the glass with the spatula. The stock springs are weak enough, that pressing on the bed can make them move, which changes the beds relationship to the carriage, and therefore the hot end. I figure a removable bed, is enough to make tramming last a long time. But since you're in there, you might as well do the springs that double the insurance. Rhyno posted:I'm very new to 3D printing, I thought glass beds were preferred? Welcome to 3d printing's biggest problem. It grew up on the internet, so all the old advice, gets regurgitated, re-stated, re-refrenced, and re-told as gospel. They are not, preferred, they are viewed as "an upgrade" so come on printers that are supposed to be premium. In industry, if you're going to "move up" from PEI, you go to G10, or special adhesives. Or even Kapton directly on a heatbed. You're still gonna see people putting down painters tape too.
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Apr 2, 2022 01:22
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Nerobro posted:You're still gonna see people putting down painters tape too. While still embracing my own archaic glassiness, I will never ever ever stop looking down my nose at the Tape People.
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Apr 2, 2022 01:26
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Opinionated posted:Thanks! I really like the dual extrusion pla: is there a version of this that does pink/light blue? more of a cotton candy.
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Apr 2, 2022 01:29
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got a gig helping to run a small resin printer farm for healthcare products. going from from my $350 mars pro to a $25k asiga pro 4k is a real hoot. shame i can’t really gently caress around with it, but the QC/productivity stuff i learn should still transfer over just also: UV flash tube post-curing using inert gas shielding is the poo poo. not only does it fully cure resin to a much higher standard than the usual LED uv curing, it also produces prints with superior mechanical properties. idk how i’m gonna go back to a wash n cure after this Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Apr 2, 2022 |
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Apr 2, 2022 03:53
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Some of the trending 3d printing stories today are about Amazon banning non-Amazon branded 3d printers sometime 2023 and selling their own machine in 2024. The funny part? Well, all of it. Just look at the description of the Frankenstein machine they claim they are going to sell for $100. Here: https://www.3dnatives.com/en/amazon-to-ban-the-sale-of-3d-printers-by-2023-010420224/
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Apr 2, 2022 12:36
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Some of the trending 3d printing stories today are about Amazon banning non-Amazon branded 3d printers sometime 2023 and selling their own machine in 2024. Hmm, this important news article posted on April 1st has a lot to tell us about the future of 3d printing.
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Apr 2, 2022 12:45
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Rexxed posted:Hmm, this important news article posted on April 1st has a lot to tell us about the future of 3d printing. Weird, I found it on a Reddit post dated 7 days ago. 
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Apr 2, 2022 12:58
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Weird, I found it on a Reddit post dated 7 days ago. Google's wrong, that thread is 15 hours old if you actually click through.
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Apr 2, 2022 13:30
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cruft posted:I got pretty good at dealing with glass. You let it cool down to room temperature (or, better yet, basement temperature, which is 15C here), and then spray some rubbing alcohol at the base, and start trying to lift the part off on one side so the alcohol can creep in and break the bond underneath, and eventually the piece will snap off cleanly. Okay then, noted. Like I said, very new to this. I grabbed a Voxelab Aquilla during a Lightning deal. It's really just been a fun toy so far and I'm enjoying the heck out of it. What about replacement nozzles? Everything highly rated on Amazon has a ton of lovely reviews from recent buyers, what would be the best option for me here?
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Apr 2, 2022 16:19
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Weird, I found it on a Reddit post dated 7 days ago. The date is literally in the URL
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Apr 2, 2022 16:20
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Deviant posted:is there a version of this that does pink/light blue? more of a cotton candy. Nah but there's others that are close to that: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/matterhackers-quantum-pla/sk/MKYF0D1W
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Apr 2, 2022 20:00
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I just want to tell someone who might understand that I think the 13th iteration of this part for my daughter's car headrest is going to finally be the one that fits properly.
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Apr 2, 2022 20:18
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Rapid prototyping is an oxymoron, you say?
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Apr 2, 2022 20:24
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Todays progress
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Apr 2, 2022 21:10
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gbut posted:Rapid prototyping is an oxymoron, you say? not in the slightest. imagine how long it would have taken if he'd had to build 13 prototypes by hand
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Apr 2, 2022 21:33
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Sagebrush posted:not in the slightest. imagine how long it would have taken if he'd had to build 13 prototypes by hand This thought has definitely occurred to me. If I were doing this by hand it would have taken weeks at best, and I'd have been hard pressed to do things like "what if I make this 0.5mm taller"
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Apr 2, 2022 21:46
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you can often save yourself a lot of the trial-and-error fit-up test printing in applications like this with thoughtful design. i e, instead of trying to get the locating/spacing perfect, make the design’s critical features mechanically-adjustable, or use elastic/slack features that allow the printed part to conform to the car hardware. a lot of the time, just making the locating feature using an elastic material gives you enough play- for ex, instead of trying to locate multiple pins using close-fitting solid holes, design the holes to seat rubber/silicone grommets, add a groove for an O-ring, etc. for hobby stuff you generally figure out what suitable materials/hardware you have on hand or can source easily, and design the part around that from the beginning Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Apr 2, 2022 |
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Apr 2, 2022 22:26
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It worked, it worked, it finally worked! The thing that made this a real PITA was that the entire part has to be inserted into a cavity in the headrest. After careful measurements, I couldn't think of a better way to fine-tune the fit than making guesses and trying them out, then drilling into the part to remove it and try the next one. I'm sure if I did this sort of thing for a living it wouldn't have taken me 15 attempts, but by gum, I got a working part!   The one in the photo was printed with an ugly 0.28mm layer height, but my subsequent attempt to print in better detail made spaghetti, and my kid said this one was good enough, so I just left it in. Probably not a lot of passengers are going to be examining the rear seat head rest button. cruft fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Apr 2, 2022 |
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Apr 2, 2022 23:07
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What do you (all) use for modeling stuff? Is it a mix of different tools, or is basically everyone on Fusion360? I haven't tried it yet, and in the past I've used rhino3d,and recently openSCAD, but those don't really offer that much, so I've been considering learning Fusion.
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Apr 2, 2022 23:52
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Rhino is an excellent modeling program with extraordinarily powerful tools, but it takes a fair bit of training/experience to use well, and it costs money. Fusion 360 is free and relatively easy to get started with. Its parametric nature makes it well suited to building mechanical parts. It's a good choice if you don't know where to begin. Blender is also free, and is better suited than Fusion to modeling organic shapes like animals and humans. It has a pretty steep learning curve, but there are a lot of good tutorials online. SolidWorks is what Fusion is trying to copy, and is better in many ways (and worse in a few), but it costs an insane amount of money and the company is user-hostile, and these days if you aren't specifically trying to get into an industry where SolidWorks is required, I'd just say stick to Fusion. OpenSCAD is a prank played on newbies by rear end in a top hat computer programmers.
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Apr 3, 2022 00:00
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Having just started printing my third object designed in FreeCAD: eh, it's a little bit of a pain in the rear end, but it gets the job done.
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Apr 3, 2022 00:02
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Sagebrush posted:SolidWorks is what Fusion is trying to copy, and is better in many ways (and worse in a few), but it costs an insane amount of money and the company is user-hostile, and these days if you aren't specifically trying to get into an industry where SolidWorks is required, I'd just say stick to Fusion. There is a Maker Edition now for  a month. There are some differences but none that are overly meaningful for a hobby maker. Fusion360 is upside down in my head when I use it, so I do find Solidworks more intuitive.https://discover.solidworks.com/makers Hit up the Google and there are referrer codes to be had that drop it further. Sagebrush posted:OpenSCAD is a prank played on newbies by rear end in a top hat computer programmers. I did computer science, not information technology, at university. I think this is a truly excellent joke.
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Apr 3, 2022 00:12
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https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/collplant-to-trial-3d-bioprinted-breast-implants-in-breakthrough-animal-study-207127/ 3D printed breast implants That is all
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Apr 3, 2022 00:36
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I like OpenSCAD because I am a huge computer science nerd, but Autodesk Inventor is like objectively better. I'm still in the learning phase so it's different and I don't like it, but it's undeniably better than OpenSCAD.
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Apr 3, 2022 00:37
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Sagebrush posted:
Thanks. I've started to discover that, considering how limited it is. I just want something where I can do some basic parametric modeling, and even though Rhino is kinda great, it's not easy for that kind of stuff. But.. the last time I knew how to use it was 10 years ago, so I might be really off the mark there. I think grasshoper now comes integrated. I think I see some instructional videos for Fusion in my near future.
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Apr 3, 2022 00:38
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I've started getting used to freecad, though I can't just creatively do stuff off the cuff like I can in onshape (or fusion if I would ever bother to learn it). I definitely have to plan parts out more first. I find I'm doing layers of shapes on top of each other and it feels like I'm doing it wrong but it works mostly so hooray? openscad is such garbage an elaborate prank is the only explanation for its creation
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Apr 3, 2022 01:02
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I use onshape as it's the only thing I've found whose free tier isn't hobbled to uselessness to try and force you to upgrade
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Apr 3, 2022 02:28
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I started with 3D Builder, which is Microsoft's free tool you can download for Windows. It can do very basic stuff but requires some creativity to trick it into doing anything beyond the bare bones; I was doing stuff like making dummy shapes to snap the real ones too (and then delete) in order to place stuff with any degree of precision. I have been using Fusion 360 since - the limitations on the free version are not that big for most users (10 files open at once is the main one), but I get the education version free since I'm a teacher. I was having a hard time finding helpful tutorials at first as the UI has changed a bit with more recent updates; the circa 2016 videos I was trying to follow were just different enough to make it maddening. This guy's Learn F360 in 30 days series seem both useful and recent enough, although I'm only like 5 videos in. Most what I'm doing is pretty simple stuff so that's actually been enough for me for right now. Borrowing from teaching, I use an "I do, we do, you do" approach where I watch the video through once taking notes on the steps, not so much the measurements but the concepts/tools. I then work through actually making the model a second time while the video plays. The third time I try to make my own thing using the same steps, ideally without looking back at the notes.
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Apr 3, 2022 10:58
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gbut posted:What do you (all) use for modeling stuff? Is it a mix of different tools, or is basically everyone on Fusion360? I haven't tried it yet, and in the past I've used rhino3d,and recently openSCAD, but those don't really offer that much, so I've been considering learning Fusion. My modeling needs are generally pretty modest so it's usually TinkerCad for visual wiggle-it-around projects and openSCAD for stuff that requires specific measurements that I might need to gently caress around with later. Or sometimes both, OSCAD to generate parts of the model and then postprocessing in TC to attach greebles and bits that are annoying in OSCAD. I've looked at FreeCAD a bit and it would probably be a significant step up but the learning curve is also really steep; as a veteran of the LaTeX mines OSCAD is a lot more comfortable to me.
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Apr 3, 2022 14:58
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