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Sagebrush posted:jam some 1.6mm 63-37 eutectic solder into your extruder and see what happens Funny you should say that, I had a dream when I first started with a 3D printer that I had a printer that did exactly this so you could print metal parts. Every time I change filaments I think "I wonder if..."
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Apr 8, 2022 19:09
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Going to experiment with running my Ender 3 v2 at 45mm/s wall and 75mm/s infill. God help me
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Apr 8, 2022 19:15
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Pham Nuwen posted:I've had my Prusa Mini for a few days now, I'm getting the hang of it and have already printed several parts of my own design... Now I'm kind of itching to try some D&D miniatures. Is there a good source for free models? Would you generally print that sort of thing in PLA, PETG, or ABS? Or do models really need a resin printer to do properly? It depends on the scale, detail, and design of the model. SLA (resin) printers are objectively higher-resolution than FDM (filament) machines, but there's some overlap at the extremes. SLAs usually have a resolution of 0.1 mm to 0.025 mm, while FDMs go from 0.3 mm or more down to perhaps 0.050 mm. So a part printed at maximum FDM resolution will be comparable in some sense to low/intermediate SLA work. There are plenty of really nice D&D style models done with FDM printers. It's not exactly the same, though, because the technologies don't produce exactly the same kind of model. SLA machines tend to blend the layers into one another better, since the edges of a light pattern are a gaussian falloff but the edges of an extruded plastic string are hard. SLA machines can also achieve much finer individual details in some situations, since the smallest element they can produce is one pixel wide (about 50 microns) but the smallest discrete element an FDM can build is something the size of the nozzle (~400 microns). If you're printing a large model with a reasonable level of detail, FDM is probably just fine. If you're printing a 1-inch-tall Warhammer style miniature with tiny details of scale armor and such, the sort of thing you'd have to paint with an eyelash on a toothpick, that may or may not work out. SLA supports are also friendlier than FDM supports, meaning that complex models with lots of overhangs will be handled more gracefully with an SLA. Figures with lots of little spindly bits sticking out -- wings and swords and guns and flapping cloaks and such -- will always require supports, and SLA will probably do better. SLA machines (MSLA specifically, but that's 95% of the market) are significantly faster than FDM printers, especially for a given resolution, and the difference increases as the models get larger. That said, since you just bought a printer, give it a shot! Find a model that is specifically designed to not require heavy supports, set it to 0.1 or 0.05mm resolution, and see what happens. I expect you will be pleasantly surprised. Here are a bunch to get started. Most of them will require some supports but eh give it a shot. You can click through to the "makes" section to see a variety of prints on both SLA and FDM machines. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3054701 If you plan to exclusively print teeny tiny things, you can also install a smaller nozzle (0.25mm) for improved resolution, but try it with the 0.4 for now. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Apr 8, 2022 |
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Apr 8, 2022 19:24
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On a related note, I want to print some custom figures from HeroForge. What's a good resin with high detail rendering and enough toughness that the model can be handled without fear of breaking off little bits? The Siraya ABS-like seems to have good reviews.
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Apr 8, 2022 20:33
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Sagebrush posted:It depends on the scale, detail, and design of the model. Thanks! I tried the "traveller" model, even though it probably needed more supports than others might have. It came out ok when viewed from a couple feet away, but up close some of the detail is lost e.g. you can only just barely tell he has "eyes". I printed at 0.1mm, so 0.05 might do better.
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Apr 8, 2022 21:44
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The ender 3 v2 prints at 30-60mm/s (cartesian) What are some conservative guesses for print speed on the Prusa XL (coreXY)? 75-145 mm/s?
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Apr 8, 2022 21:58
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Somewhere between 80-200mm/s? There's so many variables that it's hard to predict.
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Apr 8, 2022 22:03
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Rexxed posted:I doubt you need to worry if you're only getting the internal temperatures to 30C. That's not terribly hot for most electronics. While it's true that you don't know how much the ambient temperature is affecting parts where you don't have temperature sensors, like inside the power supply, 30C is 86F which is just a warm room temperature. I printed my whole voron, with my ender in the enclosure. It was warm enough that my PETG duct drooped. Everything was at 40ish C. For a week. No, 30c is nothing. Hadlock posted:The ender 3 v2 prints at 30-60mm/s (cartesian) Stock profile, sure. The motion system handles 150mm+ without lost steps easily. And with a new duct and no new parts it prints at 120mm/s perfectly. MOST of our printers are not limited by the motion system for actual ~print speed~. They're limited by extrusion rate of the hot end. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Apr 8, 2022 |
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Apr 8, 2022 22:15
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insta posted:ffs people You still haven't alluded to what you think the true cause is. The comparison to drunk driving is very emotionally loaded but certainly not equivalent. We know why that's bad, you haven't explained even a hypothesis as to why the particular combo jams. I do know many people who almost exclusively print PLA on a Voron with a Dragon, and don't have issue. I too had issues and immediately yelled "Hurrrrr Dragon" because everybody else is on a bandwagon. Then I saw it was the rubbish clear bowden was swelling for some reason causing substantial friction. Swap the tube, and all problems went away. My chamber temp for PLA is set at 40C, the fan coming on then. I do run the machine in an Australian garage in summer so it routinely reaches 45-46 inside the chamber at print head height. Yeah, the Voron could benefit from some PLA focused improvements to make it an impressive PLA machine, but screaming 'just print ABS' isn't at all beneficial to understanding. As it stands it'll comfortably print PLA all day, just not at 300mm/s. Only a sluggish 100 or something, and that is very visibly due to part cooling limitations.
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Apr 8, 2022 22:30
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Print a large plate, then there's no issues with part cooling.
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Apr 8, 2022 22:35
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Combat Pretzel posted:Print a large plate, then there's no issues with part cooling. Plates are better in ABS 
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Apr 8, 2022 22:39
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Sagebrush posted:On a related note, I want to print some custom figures from HeroForge. What's a good resin with high detail rendering and enough toughness that the model can be handled without fear of breaking off little bits? The Siraya ABS-like seems to have good reviews. https://3drs.store/products/hero-evolution-grey?variant=42463835095293 I've mentioned before that I'm friendly with a couple of guys from this company, but we became friends after I did some product testing for them rather than me just buying their stuff because we're buds. Having said that - if you don't mind spending a little money, that "HERO Evolution" (a newer formula than the original, better results from monochrome machines) is still hands-down the best resin for durable minis that I've ever come across, and I've tried almost all of the popular brands. The stuff is exactly what it says it is and does exactly what it says it does. It's easily twice the price of the generic resins, but I'll still buy it before anything else if I'm doing gaming pieces for myself or others. I've also run countless costume and prop pieces with it (well, mostly with the original formula) and over two years later stuff is still holding up to actual physical use. I don't have a lot of brand loyalties these days, and I'm honestly kind of a cheapskate, but these guys take a lot of pride in their product and I don't mind spending the extra on their resins. It's never not been worth it for me.
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Apr 8, 2022 23:15
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Hadlock posted:The ender 3 v2 prints at 30-60mm/s (cartesian) It's for going big, not fast afaik
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Apr 9, 2022 01:11
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Deviant posted:It's for going big, not fast afaik I feel like that was a "we're not gonna try to be a industrial or voron" type printer. And until they get past marlin derivatives their pressure advance is gonna hold them back.
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Apr 9, 2022 02:33
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Speaking of "big", how feasible is it to get a long plate for an Ender 3? I would like to have a lot of distance in at least one axis to work with and from what I've seen it seems like a long plate could work mechanically, as well as being an easier axis to work with than the z extender kits I see all over the place. I'm assuming there's some kind of ignorance of mine on some detail I'm missing though. The z kits are everywhere for some reason.
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Apr 9, 2022 02:50
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bird food bathtub posted:Speaking of "big", how feasible is it to get a long plate for an Ender 3? I would like to have a lot of distance in at least one axis to work with and from what I've seen it seems like a long plate could work mechanically, as well as being an easier axis to work with than the z extender kits I see all over the place. I'm assuming there's some kind of ignorance of mine on some detail I'm missing though. The z kits are everywhere for some reason. Yup, they exist. Stretch? When I was on the ender group someone had like a 1 meter long bed on their ender.
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Apr 9, 2022 03:03
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snail posted:Yeah, the Voron could benefit from some PLA focused improvements to make it an impressive PLA machine, but screaming 'just print ABS' isn't at all beneficial to understanding. As it stands it'll comfortably print PLA all day, just not at 300mm/s. Only a sluggish 100 or something, and that is very visibly due to part cooling limitations. They're working on a new toolhead design that has better part cooling. Stealthburner. It's in beta and I know some folks have had decent luck with it.
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Apr 9, 2022 10:31
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Stealthburner blows a lot. Literally.
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Apr 9, 2022 10:40
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How would one bond a clear acrylic sheet to PLA? (or PETG if need be) Making a router jig and it would be nice, but not mandatory, to have a transparent window to line things up.
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Apr 9, 2022 14:53
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The age old item 'superglue' is not an option? But If you need a more positive mechanical bond I suppose adding a small hole in the pla and using a heat set insert, then screwing through the acrylic into it might work It won't be the most shear resistant thing on earth, but it's probably the best bond you can get that is doable when it breaks
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Apr 9, 2022 15:05
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Nerobro posted:I feel like that was a "we're not gonna try to be a industrial or voron" type printer. And until they get past marlin derivatives their pressure advance is gonna hold them back. i mean i still ordered a 2 print head. just the idea of being able to easily multi material, or multi nozzle intrigues me. Plus my primary use is cosplay props, so the idea of a 14^3 build area is very good.
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Apr 9, 2022 15:06
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Nerobro posted:I feel like that was a "we're not gonna try to be a industrial or voron" type printer. And until they get past marlin derivatives their pressure advance is gonna hold them back. Marlin has pressure advance. They call it linear advance and it is already active in the Prusa firmware. As far as speed, I don't see anything about the XL design that would make it worse at high speed printing than any other coreXY. You will always have a trade-off between speed and quality and my reading of their statement was that they are just going to choose the default profile settings to favor quality. Crank it up to 300 mm/s if you want; I expect it will print just as well as a voron at the same speed. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Apr 9, 2022 |
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Apr 9, 2022 15:39
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It doesn't work the same.
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Apr 9, 2022 18:39
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Combat Pretzel posted:It doesn't work the same. This is what I thought was going on. Marlin's pressure advance isn't... "linear" and has stages. IIRC. While Klipper has a smooth ramp.
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Apr 9, 2022 19:29
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Serenade posted:How would one bond a clear acrylic sheet to PLA? (or PETG if need be) IPS 16 (a somewhat runny syrup with a very short working time) will bond to acrylic and PLA. E-6000 (thicker and far less time-sensitive than the previous) will also do the trick. E: the former is a professional thing from e.g. plastics shops, the second is easier to buy. For securing a viewing window, taping it with gorilla tape, or just using CA gel glue would also be options and are at just about any hardware store. The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Apr 9, 2022 |
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Apr 9, 2022 21:38
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Hm, I've never had luck with superglue on PLA but it's not load bearing so worth a shot.
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Apr 9, 2022 21:43
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Nerobro posted:This is what I thought was going on. Marlin's pressure advance isn't... "linear" and has stages. IIRC. While Klipper has a smooth ramp.
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Apr 9, 2022 21:57
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Wibla posted:They're working on a new toolhead design that has better part cooling. Stealthburner. It's in beta and I know some folks have had decent luck with it. I am presently using a Halo, it subjectively works better for cooling PLA. I have been pottering along putting together the current revision of the Stealthburner, I'm just being lazy about the MGN12 conversion on this machine. The Halo is working well enough the only thing I'm wanting is the sweet ArrrrBeeeGees to light up the part underneath the nozzle.
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Apr 9, 2022 22:21
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Serenade posted:Hm, I've never had luck with superglue on PLA but it's not load bearing so worth a shot. I also find the gel versions of superglue work better when gluing 3D prints, on account of being somewhat gap-filling. IPS 16 or E-6000 are my generally my first choices, though.
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Apr 9, 2022 22:22
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snail posted:I have been pottering along putting together the current revision of the Stealthburner, I'm just being lazy about the MGN12 conversion on this machine. The Halo is working well enough the only thing I'm wanting is the sweet ArrrrBeeeGees to light up the part underneath the nozzle.
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Apr 9, 2022 22:24
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Didn't Prusa also say already that they will support Klipper on the XL?
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Apr 9, 2022 23:06
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The Eyes Have It posted:I also find the gel versions of superglue work better when gluing 3D prints, on account of being somewhat gap-filling. IPS 16 or E-6000 are my generally my first choices, though. Yeah I have built some 3' long boats filled with 8lbs of lead ballast, held together with only gorilla glue gel super glue, works great, amazing stuff. The boats were printed in vase mode (single wall) so the edge strength had to be pretty incredible to support the dynamic loads + did I mention the 8 lbs of loose lead ballast trying to fold the boat in half
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Apr 9, 2022 23:11
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Mikey Purp posted:Didn't Prusa also say already that they will support Klipper on the XL? I'm curious on how Prusa intends to do the segmented bed, tho, since pictures of the controller don't show 16 thermistor inputs and 16 heater outputs. A daughter board? Per segment of the bed? That might throw a wrench in full Klipper support.
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Apr 9, 2022 23:55
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Combat Pretzel posted:Stealthburner fits just fine on Clockwork v1. The toolhead has an appropriate backplate for it. I haven't done the MGN12 conversion, because I've gotten a high quality MGN9 rail to go single rail back in the day, and don't want to ditch it because $$$. SB works pretty nicely so far. Does cw2 use the same internals? I was debating printing that as well when I print the lat St sb revision, hopefully we'll in this white abs. I hear it's better for tpu, but I have yet to try my misc tpu in random prints
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Apr 10, 2022 00:10
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Roundboy posted:Does cw2 use the same internals? I was debating printing that as well when I print the lat St sb revision, hopefully we'll in this white abs. Same gear kit, but different part cooling fan. I am building a second Voron at the moment so I needed a second extruder kit, may as well go the whole hog and go CW2 while I'm at it. I'll tear down the Afterburner and rebuild it into a SB for the second Voron.
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Apr 10, 2022 01:07
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snail posted:Same gear kit, but different part cooling fan. I am building a second Voron at the moment so I needed a second extruder kit, may as well go the whole hog and go CW2 while I'm at it. I'll tear down the Afterburner and rebuild it into a SB for the second Voron. I'm okay with it now, but when sb is finally released then hartik will release the new pcb cover, etc. I'll end up printing everything again for that along with finally starting my Ercf build
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Apr 10, 2022 01:14
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Combat Pretzel posted:Klipper runs on anything, so long that it has an MCU it supports. I don't think that will be such a problem to implement, really.
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Apr 10, 2022 09:38
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Wibla posted:I don't think that will be such a problem to implement, really. Roundboy posted:Does cw2 use the same internals? I was debating printing that as well when I print the lat St sb revision, hopefully we'll in this white abs.
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Apr 10, 2022 12:44
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I never thought it would happen to me,  Something about Overture PLA Pro specifically doesn't like my standard PLA settings. edit: rad 
Serenade fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Apr 10, 2022 |
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Apr 10, 2022 13:18
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Any good printable duct upgrades for the Ender 3 v2 that use the stock parts? I’m having a hard time picking through all the variations on the model sites.
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Apr 10, 2022 14:39
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