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grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I'd forgotten how long it takes just to base coat a 1/48 plane. And I'm clearly going to need a shitload more paint once I get around to the 1/32nds.

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Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003
PSA: The fit of the Revell of Germany 1/32 scale P-51D-5-NA sucks. For a modern, high-volume kit (i.e. not a short run, boutique kit), its fit is inexcusably bad. The fit at the wing root, the nose cone, tail surfaces, tail fuselage plug are all abysmal and require extensive and repeated bouts of filling, sanding, and re-scribing. :sigh:

Edit: I thought this guy was just exaggerating, but he's absolutely spot on with this kit's flaws: https://manvskit.snowcovered-dreams.net/revell-1-32-p-51d-build-review-my-little-pony-part-1

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I've been a little quiet of late because a busy term at work has limited my time at the bench. This started off originally as a group build for a facebook page but a couple of mistakes early on sapped my enthusiasm to get it done. Glad it's finished though and I'm fairly happy with how it came out in the end. Its Tamiya's Nissan Skyline 2000 GT-R finished in zero paints Repsol Honda silver that I had left over from another project. Built box stock apart from the details added to the engine bay.







Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
That's a great kit. Looks like yours is the 'Street' version with the Watanabes. Looks great, man. I did the factory version a while back and was super happy with the results. Don't think I took any pictures, though.

I've been in a total rut with a half-finished Revell Germany Shelby Cobra kit. Front suspension pissed me off so I took a break. Need to get back at it so I can get it cleared off the bench. Got a Fujimi 190e Evo II and the Tamiya Castrol Supra on deck.

FrozenVent
May 1, 2009

The Boeing 737-200QC is the undisputed workhorse of the skies.
I got stuck for the longest time on this container ship, I’ve just moved it aside to work on other stuff and I finish paints on the containers off and on.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

That Skyline looks a treat. I’ve gotten through a a 914 build (that I had to epoxy to get to sit on the frame) and halfway through a Beetle so far. Been busy with other things, so I’m not stressing, but I can’t wait to cool off on hot summer days working on a few more.


nitsuga fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Apr 15, 2022

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

That's a great kit. Looks like yours is the 'Street' version with the Watanabes. Looks great, man. I did the factory version a while back and was super happy with the results. Don't think I took any pictures, though.

I've been in a total rut with a half-finished Revell Germany Shelby Cobra kit. Front suspension pissed me off so I took a break. Need to get back at it so I can get it cleared off the bench. Got a Fujimi 190e Evo II and the Tamiya Castrol Supra on deck.

Thanks man and it is the street custom version. I have 3 kits in various states of being done which I want to complete before I start anything new. The 787b kit that I've been working on for a couple of years I don't mind sitting because I'm adding a lot of detail to it and that takes a fair bit of mental energy to work on. I wouldn't mind getting the bodies on another couple of kits done so that I can work on them at my leisure during the term. Theres a Toyota TS050 in the stash but I don't want to start that till I have a fair chuck of time up my sleeve because most of the livery is painted.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

So way back in 2020, forums poster grassy gnoll sent me a Ki-84 egg plane kit.

Well.... I finally finished it!



I built it and partially painted it in 2020.. I think? So I have no idea if it was a fun build. But uh... The decals went on pretty easy last week?

FrozenVent
May 1, 2009

The Boeing 737-200QC is the undisputed workhorse of the skies.
Any advice on masking cockpits canopies? The front canopy on this F-104 is driving me loving nuts.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

FrozenVent posted:

Any advice on masking cockpits canopies? The front canopy on this F-104 is driving me loving nuts.

There are usually aftermarket masks you can buy for most canopies, to save yourself some trouble. Scalemates is a good place to start. Look for your exact model, and once you've found it the product page will show a fairly detailed selection of everything aftermarket for it, canopy masks included.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Another kit finished and off the bench finally. This one made good progress till the start of the year when it got shelved for a period for the same reasons that the Skyline I posted earlier did.
The Kit is Tamiya Repsol Honda RC213V with zero paints color matched set, Hobby Design detail set and a Tamiya fork kit. It's only the second bike kit and I learnt a lot in the process particularly the photoetched chain which was a slight headache but a vast improvement on the kit supplied offering.








tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

FrozenVent posted:

Any advice on masking cockpits canopies? The front canopy on this F-104 is driving me loving nuts.

If I don't have an aftermarket masking set, my go-to is to use Bare Metal Foil, a very thin self-adhesive foil tape that's designed for mimicking chrome effects on bumpers and things.

I place a bit over the section of glass I need to mask, rub it down with a q-tip so it conforms to the canopy frames, and then run round the edges with a cocktail stick to make sure it's snuggled down.

Then I get a fresh (v important!) scalpel/hobby blade, preferably a no11, and gently run it around the edge of the frame, then pull up the foil around the glass.

This has an advantage over the yellow kabuki-tape style masking tape in that as it's so thin, it makes it a lot easier to see where the edges of softly moulded canopy frames are than if you tried to do the same thing with tape.

It does leave a sticky residue behind once you remove it, but this can be easily cleaned up with WD40 on a q-tip.

This is how it looked when I used BMF to mask a P-61 Black Widow canopy:

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I'm about done with the 1/48 Tamiya Corsair, and since I'm giving it as a gift, I was hoping y'all could take a look and make sure there's no hugely obvious fuckups that I've missed. To-do list includes a satin varnish and some sanding to try and knock the decals back down, attaching the glass to the cockpit and foot well, and an antenna.






Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
Looks pretty drat good to me. I'd love to get that as a gift.

punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

decals actually look pretty flush to me? i love the overall look, it's sick as heck.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


I decided to take a break from Warhammer poo poo and military models and build up a car and ordered the Tamiya Celica WRC. I see you can dudes getting really awesome glossy finishes on your cars/bikes; how do you do that? Is it just layering on gloss coats or clear paint or what?

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

EdsTeioh posted:

I decided to take a break from Warhammer poo poo and military models and build up a car and ordered the Tamiya Celica WRC. I see you can dudes getting really awesome glossy finishes on your cars/bikes; how do you do that? Is it just layering on gloss coats or clear paint or what?

Usually most people do the color coats then follow it up with a few coats of clear. Me personally, I like lacquers for both like Tamiya or Mr Hobby. But the really glorious glossy finishes come from wet sanding and polishing the clear coats.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




EdsTeioh posted:

I see you can dudes getting really awesome glossy finishes on your cars/bikes; how do you do that? Is it just layering on gloss coats or clear paint or what?

I haven't personally tried this method, but I've had this bookmarked away in case I ever do a car:
http://italianhorses.net/Tutorials/PerfectPaint/paint.htm

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





OcCre is releasing a 1/200 Prinz Eugen model, if people want to bulk out their German fleets. Not a lot of detail, just a video released so far. Love the paint scheme they chose, very hard to pull off though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6FpmTj-zlY

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

EdsTeioh posted:

I decided to take a break from Warhammer poo poo and military models and build up a car and ordered the Tamiya Celica WRC. I see you can dudes getting really awesome glossy finishes on your cars/bikes; how do you do that? Is it just layering on gloss coats or clear paint or what?

Depends a little on the car and what paint I use as a base coat. Doing a lot of race cars with zero paints colour matched paints I tend to lay down the base coat then a layer of clear before the decals go on. After this I build up the clear layers in stages before polishing using Tamiya polishes.

The ridiculously glossy cars you see around are done with 2k clear which I don’t like the look of so I personally don’t use it.

Word of caution on the clear coats though, some of them such as ts13 are rather hot and will ruin the decals if you put the clear on too quickly. Mr hobby clear is the least aggressive I’ve used but is hard to build up a decent layer without it becoming too thick.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Dr. Garbanzo posted:

Depends a little on the car and what paint I use as a base coat. Doing a lot of race cars with zero paints colour matched paints I tend to lay down the base coat then a layer of clear before the decals go on. After this I build up the clear layers in stages before polishing using Tamiya polishes.

The ridiculously glossy cars you see around are done with 2k clear which I don’t like the look of so I personally don’t use it.

Word of caution on the clear coats though, some of them such as ts13 are rather hot and will ruin the decals if you put the clear on too quickly. Mr hobby clear is the least aggressive I’ve used but is hard to build up a decent layer without it becoming too thick.

Thanks for this (and everyone else). What are the Tamiya polishes? Are there particular ones? I've got some Floquil gloss that I usually airbrush for glosscoating but then also some Tamiya Clear Gloss.

I guess doing that WRC I don't really need *super* gloss or anything and can always just weather it up if I gently caress it up. I don't really want to do that, but I guess I could turn it into a dio or something if I don't get the finish right.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




EdsTeioh posted:

What are the Tamiya polishes?

Search for Tamiya Polishing Compound. It comes in three flavors: Red (coarse), Blue (fine) and White (finish). I use it at work for something completely unrelated to modeling and have ordered it from Amazon a few times. Sometimes it ships from the US and shows up quickly. Other times, it ships from Japan and takes a couple weeks.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

EdsTeioh posted:

Thanks for this (and everyone else). What are the Tamiya polishes? Are there particular ones? I've got some Floquil gloss that I usually airbrush for glosscoating but then also some Tamiya Clear Gloss.

I guess doing that WRC I don't really need *super* gloss or anything and can always just weather it up if I gently caress it up. I don't really want to do that, but I guess I could turn it into a dio or something if I don't get the finish right.

I’ve gotten good results out of Tamiya x22 with leveling thinner and only moved onto zero paints stuff cause it became hard to get during Covid.

Yeah doing rally cars they won’t need to be super shiny but think of the clear as a protective layer over the decals same as you’d do on a tank or plane. Modern cars seem to be a mix of shiny and matt depending on the vinyl they use to wrap the car

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


SkunkDuster posted:

Search for Tamiya Polishing Compound. It comes in three flavors: Red (coarse), Blue (fine) and White (finish). I use it at work for something completely unrelated to modeling and have ordered it from Amazon a few times. Sometimes it ships from the US and shows up quickly. Other times, it ships from Japan and takes a couple weeks.

Which one tastes best though???

For real; do you use them in a sequence or something?

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




EdsTeioh posted:

Which one tastes best though???

For real; do you use them in a sequence or something?

In theory, you would go from red to blue to white. I use it at work for polishing polycarbonate optical lenses, so I have had good success using the red and skipping right to the white. The term "coarse" is relative. They are grades of very fine grit compounds. For using them to get a gloss finish on paint, I don't have any experience, so all I can suggest is painting some plastic spoons and doing some experimentation.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

EdsTeioh posted:

Which one tastes best though???

For real; do you use them in a sequence or something?

A lot of people simply use a compound and then a polish meant for cars. I use Meguiars myself. Plus they are easy to find at your local auto parts store or Walmart.

Nebakenezzer
Sep 13, 2005

The Mote in God's Eye

I just used a Meguiars clear plastic polish with a dremel at low speed - works really well.

Also. I'm making that Tamiya 1/350 I-400 and have somehow lost the decals for it, specifically the actual goddamn I-400/Japanese flag bit.

I do not know how I did this

help

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I always start with the red and work my way through to the white. You do have to be careful when you get to the edges of panels cause the paint is less thick and it doesn’t take long to burn through to the primer layer. Before I switched to the Tamiya stuff I used autoglym super resin polish which does a good job but has a cutting action higher than coarse Tamiya which could lead to burn through

FrozenVent
May 1, 2009

The Boeing 737-200QC is the undisputed workhorse of the skies.
Can anyone recommend me a good brush for fine detail work? My old Citadelle one is… well the handle is delaminating.

GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods

FrozenVent posted:

Can anyone recommend me a good brush for fine detail work? My old Citadelle one is… well the handle is delaminating.

Winsor & Newton Series 7 or Rosemary & Co Series 33, size 1.

EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Raphael 8404 size 0 or 1.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

For really fine details I've had a lot of luck with a single hair from the haunch fringe of an adult labrador. They're just stiff enough you can do pupils and other tiny marks.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
I've just taken to using the cheapo Citadel brushes that come in the first issues of the various partworks for everything. Works fine :shrug:

Suzaku
Feb 15, 2012

Blue Footed Booby posted:

For really fine details I've had a lot of luck with a single hair from the haunch fringe of an adult labrador. They're just stiff enough you can do pupils and other tiny marks.

I...what....okay, now I'm tempted to try this.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




FrozenVent posted:

Can anyone recommend me a good brush for fine detail work? My old Citadelle one is… well the handle is delaminating.

I have a handful of Winsor and Newton brushes from 1 to 00 size and they are excellent brushes - but they are expensive. I am a sucker for a cheap deal and have purchased a few of the $10-15 detail sets from Amazon and they worked surprisingly well. I considered doing a video review, but I bought them 5-10 years ago and they are no longer available, so it would be pointless. From my experience, the cheap amazon brushes performed very well for most detail work. When it comes to putting the part under a microscope to paint the graduations on the cockpit instrument panels of a 1/48 plane, I use the W&N 0 or 00. At that scale though, the flow and coverage of the paint is just as important as the brush, so you have to take that into consideration. If you have steady hands and are using a high-end brush, but still getting poor results, it might be the paint that is the problem.

Antifreeze Head
Jun 6, 2005

It begins
Pillbug

Blue Footed Booby posted:

For really fine details I've had a lot of luck with a single hair from the haunch fringe of an adult labrador. They're just stiff enough you can do pupils and other tiny marks.

Do you have such a dog, or do the people at the dog park still talk about The Incident?

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Antifreeze Head posted:

Do you have such a dog, or do the people at the dog park still talk about The Incident?

I had one growing up. He has since passed and I've since moved enough times that I can't just check my least used closet for a convenient deposit.

War and Pieces
Apr 24, 2022

DID NOT VOTE FOR FETTERMAN

Lavinia Spenlow posted:

MisterCraft is releasing a Ghost of Kyiv kit.

Don't get excited because it's an old lovely mold with raised panel lines and based on past experience terrible decal quality.

It does have a great and realistic pilot figure though:


Is it too late to ask for a Mission Accomplished model kit ?

JuffoWup
Mar 28, 2012
Always cool to see people making crazy dioramas. Last stand of Yamato diorama.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1hMUTG48kw

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Nebakenezzer
Sep 13, 2005

The Mote in God's Eye

War and Pieces posted:

Is it too late to ask for a Mission Accomplished model kit ?

One of the Chinese Kitmakers put out an F-106 kit in the markings like GW Bush flew in the Texas air national guard in the early 1970s. IIRC on the front of the box it is intercepting a Tu-95?

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