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Gaukler
Oct 9, 2012


Serenade posted:

I have an issue with my 3d printer. It is an Ender 3. It has a bigtreetech skr mini e3 and bl touch. I was in the process of replacing the hotend after the last one become encased in plastic. Was doing test prints to narrow in on the Z-offset. Now it is displaying the error "TMC Connection Error" and the X motor doesn't work. I've been taking this slow: it did work fine yesterday and several days before that, but today it produces that error.

What do I need to fix this? No wire seems lose. I still have my stock Ender 3 board that I can go back to. Or is this full on "new printer" territory?

Also why did this happen now? This didn't happen right after I messed with the wires or changed parts.

e: Ender 5s lookin pretty affordable these days.

edit 2: Hm, I probably just have to replace the board. Is a "bigtreetech skr mini e3" still the one to grab for an ender 3 or have times changed?

I just installed the e3 in my ender3 pro, the latest board goes for about $40.

It sounds like the stepper driver itself (it’s on the board, probably under a heatsink near where the X wires connect) is bad? I think they’re soldered down on the e3 so I don’t know if there’s any way you could really repair it.

I suppose the other option is that the X motor itself is bad (or the cables between them).

Either way fixing one or all of these is way cheaper than a new printer, unless you’re looking for an excuse to upgrade anyway.

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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Hilarious because my head alone is the size of the whole thing.

I ran out of green, and microcenter only had 2 spools of a not quite the same green, and 2 spools of any other mildly interesting color


So I bought 4 spools of pla+ in purple to redo it all. Only half of what I printed so far was usable, and I might just do the head in one pass since I have a smooth sheet . Reprints I think will be each section top and bottom

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Roundboy posted:

Hilarious because my head alone is the size of the whole thing.

I ran out of green, and microcenter only had 2 spools of a not quite the same green, and 2 spools of any other mildly interesting color


So I bought 4 spools of pla+ in purple to redo it all. Only half of what I printed so far was usable, and I might just do the head in one pass since I have a smooth sheet . Reprints I think will be each section top and bottom

So I downloaded the individual files and loaded up the head and scaled up to 350% and decided, ya I don't think I need one quite that big lol

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
Neither do I, it was just a project we always wanted when we first printed the rex. It's going to use so much plastic

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Roundboy posted:

Neither do I, it was just a project we always wanted when we first printed the rex. It's going to use so much plastic

And probably be like 4' tall when he's done!

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.

Serenade posted:

I have an issue with my 3d printer. It is an Ender 3. It has a bigtreetech skr mini e3 and bl touch. I was in the process of replacing the hotend after the last one become encased in plastic. Was doing test prints to narrow in on the Z-offset. Now it is displaying the error "TMC Connection Error" and the X motor doesn't work. I've been taking this slow: it did work fine yesterday and several days before that, but today it produces that error.

What do I need to fix this? No wire seems lose. I still have my stock Ender 3 board that I can go back to. Or is this full on "new printer" territory?

Also why did this happen now? This didn't happen right after I messed with the wires or changed parts.

e: Ender 5s lookin pretty affordable these days.

edit 2: Hm, I probably just have to replace the board. Is a "bigtreetech skr mini e3" still the one to grab for an ender 3 or have times changed?

I've seen this error before and re-seating all of the stepper motor cables on both the board end and the motor end is what solved it. Pay special attention to the ones that get screwed into the terminal on the board. In my case, the wire was bad and had actually started melting the terminal on the board. The implications of that were super scary, so I ended up replacing the terminal and all of the wire ends with proper ferrules.

Marsupial Ape
Dec 15, 2020
the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar
Sorry to continue to beat this drum, but say my extreme ceiling was $350, what is comparable to the Prusa MINI+? I see several models in that size category that have a lot extra features like self levelers and are even enclosed (I have cats. Emotional terrorist cats).

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Does the Prusa Mini + not have those features? My regular Mini certainly self levels.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

Marsupial Ape posted:

Sorry to continue to beat this drum, but say my extreme ceiling was $350, what is comparable to the Prusa MINI+? I see several models in that size category that have a lot extra features like self levelers and are even enclosed (I have cats. Emotional terrorist cats).

I wouldn't pay a lot for the enclosure part specifically. A box of almost-trash made out of 2x2s and foil-backed insulation gorilla glued on the outside is plenty good.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Marsupial Ape posted:

Sorry to continue to beat this drum, but say my extreme ceiling was $350, what is comparable to the Prusa MINI+? I see several models in that size category that have a lot extra features like self levelers and are even enclosed (I have cats. Emotional terrorist cats).

I've had zero problems with my cats and the printers.

Once you start playing the upgrade game, things get weird fast.

You don't need auto bed leveling. If you're printing minis, you're gonna be using rafts anyway, just accept the raft and move on.

For a $350 budget? I'd be getting a $99 ender from microcenter, $30 for a nice build plate, yellow springs, a metal extruder top, and spend the rest on PETG and PLA for my adventures. $200 leaves you a lot of room for stuff.

First prints, would be a better cooling duct, a filament guide for the top of the frame, and.. maybe that's it? Then start printing.

Alternative? since you're printing minis, the Monoprice Mini Delta should be in the hunt. It's got auto bed leveling. But poor part cooling. And the community is.. not technically very good. But there IS one.

There's a real big hole in the market between $300 and say.. $1000. With really very few machines in there that are worth looking at.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
How often does Microcenter have that deal? I don't live neat one but I have a friend driving up from Texas next month and he has multiple locations near him.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
It's been going for most of the year, so far. it's a $100 discount? so I think I paid $130 for my ender 3 pro. ... which I then spent $80 to ship to seattle. hahaha.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

NewFatMike posted:

Does the Prusa Mini + not have those features? My regular Mini certainly self levels.

It does, but you don't even really need it.

I've changed the starting Gcode in PrusaSlicer to just home out, heat up and print.

Doesn't save a whole lot of time on individual prints but it does in aggregate when I'm swapping plates and printing things.

Honestly being able to swap build plates eliminates 99% of the reason bed leveling and probing between prints is a thing to begin with (as long as the bed axis carriage/plate heater is flat).

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Yeah I’m trying to figure out what features it’s missing for the person I was responding to. Because as far as $350 printers go, it really isn’t missing any.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Okay, I’ve run into something I’ve never seen before. I printed a batch of miniature bases on my epax E10 5k that are oriented mostly vertical. They came out oval, not round. They printed perfectly otherwise.

I have no loving idea what that’s about. I used the same settings I always do. :iiam:

Ideas???

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Doctor Zero posted:

Okay, I’ve run into something I’ve never seen before. I printed a batch of miniature bases on my epax E10 5k that are oriented mostly vertical. They came out oval, not round. They printed perfectly otherwise.

I have no loving idea what that’s about. I used the same settings I always do. :iiam:

Ideas???

I recently printed some mini bases recently that were oriented at a roughly 45° angle, and the part of the bottom edge of the base that was nearest to the build plate had a slight deformation on it, like it was "drooping", and it made the bottom of the bases slightly out of round. It was easily sanded away, but I don't want to have to do that with a bunch of them, so I added some more supports to that area, and on a second print they came out fine. Not sure if that'll help your situation but figured I'd mention it.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Sydney Bottocks posted:

I recently printed some mini bases recently that were oriented at a roughly 45° angle, and the part of the bottom edge of the base that was nearest to the build plate had a slight deformation on it, like it was "drooping", and it made the bottom of the bases slightly out of round. It was easily sanded away, but I don't want to have to do that with a bunch of them, so I added some more supports to that area, and on a second print they came out fine. Not sure if that'll help your situation but figured I'd mention it.

I’ve had that happen with bad supports, yeah, but even the tops of the minis are oval. :wtc:

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!

mattfl posted:

I give you radioactive Flexi Rexi!

https://imgur.com/gallery/5crcRBg

So, he's the original model scaled up 350%, so not quite as big as the one RoundBoy is printing, but still quite large.

I just finished my Voron 2.4 a couple days ago.

Any tuning advice? I have a Phaestus Rapido with a Bondtech CHT 0.5.

I need to make a neon green flexi rexi for my son!

insta
Jan 28, 2009

dexefiend posted:

I just finished my Voron 2.4 a couple days ago.

Any tuning advice? I have a Phaestus Rapido with a Bondtech CHT 0.5.

I need to make a neon green flexi rexi for my son!

FYI i'm running into wicked clogging issues with CHT & high-flow hotends. Seems like you get to pick a high-flow variant of either the meltzone (Rapido) or the nozzle (CHT) but not both.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
You're not printing fast enough then. :v:

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Combat Pretzel posted:

You're not printing fast enough then. :v:

I'm happy for that to be the case but I was running ABS @ 40mm^3/s on a 0.4 at 245. Anything I should do different?

Grey Hunter
Oct 17, 2007

Hero of the soviet union.
Accidental destroyer of planets
So this is driving me nuts. My stuff is printing fine up until the last few layers where it starts to fail.



This is across several printing settings and filaments.

Any ideas? I just changed out the nozzle and that's not it.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


is there a setting to shrink the 'brim' on support material in prusaslicer?



it ALMOST fits.

Edit: Found it. "First Layer Expansion"

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Deviant posted:

is there a setting to shrink the 'brim' on support material in prusaslicer?



it ALMOST fits.

Edit: Found it. "First Layer Expansion"

What is your usecase that you would want / need to do this?

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe

Sockser posted:

What is your usecase that you would want / need to do this?

Presumably an object where the default brim extends beyond the available print area but will likely print fine with a smaller brim.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Sockser posted:

What is your usecase that you would want / need to do this?

Yeah. It extends 1mm beyond the build area on left and right.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
Any thoughts on buying the Mono X right now? They a good buy, not much of a pain in the rear end to get parts like FEP or tanks or something lurking about that I haven't considered? Thinking I want to put more money in to the printer for bigger build space and then DIY glass jar wash/cardboard box curing for now, and upgrade to wash station if I feel it necessary. There's a new generation coming out, does that mean these are getting cheaper?

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Grey Hunter posted:

So this is driving me nuts. My stuff is printing fine up until the last few layers where it starts to fail.



This is across several printing settings and filaments.

Any ideas? I just changed out the nozzle and that's not it.

turn up the temp a little. heat from the bed is a shockingly large component of heat at the nozzle.

Though, really, you're not providing a whole lot to go on.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
"HELP, My printer does X" posts....

Tell us the filament, the temperatures you're using, the printer you're using, and any "tweaks" you've done to the printer.

Ideally a photo, from a 3/4 angle, not directly above, or directly from the side, would be helpful too. And a photo of the whole printing setup.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
Knowing what exactly that print is supposed to be would also help.

Eminent DNS
May 28, 2007

It's supposed to be a novelty fake puddle of barf like from the joke store

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

With nothing else to go on besides a recent nozzle change and prints failing at a certain height I will predict... heat creep.

Grey Hunter
Oct 17, 2007

Hero of the soviet union.
Accidental destroyer of planets
Yeah, I 100% deserved that. I was frustration posting.

Ender 3, stock except for replacement springs and a glass bed. I'm printing in anycubic grey pla at 200c and a 50 degree bed. The pla was fresh yesterday, nozzle change was the day before.
The model is a road, but the issue is on anything. I just tried a temp tower and it crapped out at the 200c level. Slicing is done in cura.

Basically at some point my extruder stops pushing out filament, but if I restart it prints fine without me touching it, but it seems to be related to the amount of retractions and it normally towards the top of the print.y retraction is 35ms and 6mm.

Once again, sorry for noob low info posting.

Edit. Heat creep sound like it could be a thing. It's weird that it's a new problem on a two year old printer. If it's that.

I'll do some experimenting.

Grey Hunter fucked around with this message at 09:56 on May 2, 2022

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Grey Hunter posted:

Yeah, I 100% deserved that. I was frustration posting.

Ender 3, stock except for replacement springs and a glass bed. I'm printing in anycubic grey pla at 200c and a 50 degree bed. The pla was fresh yesterday, nozzle change was the day before.
The model is a road, but the issue is on anything. I just tried a temp tower and it crapped out at the 200c level. Slicing is done in cura.

Basically at some point my extruder stops pushing out filament, but if I restart it prints fine without me touching it, but it seems to be related to the amount of retractions and it normally towards the top of the print.y retraction is 35ms and 6mm.

Once again, sorry for noob low info posting.

Edit. Heat creep sound like it could be a thing. It's weird that it's a new problem on a two year old printer. If it's that.

I'll do some experimenting.

Have you ever replaced the plastic extruder on it?

Grey Hunter
Oct 17, 2007

Hero of the soviet union.
Accidental destroyer of planets

Doctor Zero posted:

Have you ever replaced the plastic extruder on it?

Yeah, I have a metal one.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

dexefiend posted:

I just finished my Voron 2.4 a couple days ago.

Any tuning advice? I have a Phaestus Rapido with a Bondtech CHT 0.5.

I need to make a neon green flexi rexi for my son!

Spend some quality time and go through this

https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide

Also, join the Discord groups, lotsa smart people in there.

RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon

Grey Hunter posted:

Basically at some point my extruder stops pushing out filament
Does the gear just stop turning? Is it grinding the filament? If not turning, will it continue when you remove the filament? If you press the release lever, can you push more filament by hand? This may help reduce the possible failure sources.

I find temp towers bothersome, I use pronterface to extrude 20-80mm filament with a speed of 400mm/min. If it comes out without the gear jumping, I reduce the temperature 2-3°. When it starts jumping current temp +10° is my printing temperature. (Edit: This may only work with PLA) Not sure how bothersome it would be for you to set up something like pronterface, but it makes diagnosing such problems much easier and faster. Can't imagine to figure something like this out with printing whole prints.


In other news, I think I have too much time on my hands.

RabbitWizard fucked around with this message at 19:19 on May 2, 2022

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Grey Hunter posted:

Yeah, I 100% deserved that. I was frustration posting.

Ender 3, stock except for replacement springs and a glass bed. I'm printing in anycubic grey pla at 200c and a 50 degree bed. The pla was fresh yesterday, nozzle change was the day before.
The model is a road, but the issue is on anything. I just tried a temp tower and it crapped out at the 200c level. Slicing is done in cura.

Basically at some point my extruder stops pushing out filament, but if I restart it prints fine without me touching it, but it seems to be related to the amount of retractions and it normally towards the top of the print.y retraction is 35ms and 6mm.

Once again, sorry for noob low info posting.

Edit. Heat creep sound like it could be a thing. It's weird that it's a new problem on a two year old printer. If it's that.

I'll do some experimenting.

200 is on the low end for PLA, I would try 215 for yours. White PLA flows especially poorly, so a higher temperature like that may help for your lighter gray color.

You may be incompletely melting your filament and as the print progresses, the accumulation of pressure from unmelted material at the nozzle could be causing this behavior.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

RabbitWizard posted:

In other news, I think I have too much time on my hands.


:lol:

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Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

RabbitWizard posted:

In other news, I think I have too much time on my hands.


Now print a guillotine and behead a doll next to the sign.

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