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tater_salad posted:What you're asking: is $3,500 good for a car? Yes.* tater_salad posted:What's the material? Vinyl with aluminum reinforcement. tater_salad posted:What's the brand? Atrium Windows and Doors tater_salad posted:Honestly 450/window installed is an okay deal, you're probably getting lovely bottom tier white vinyl windows from Lowsdepot / whatever window company they're using to pump out cheapo windows. But 250-300/window plus 150 for install is not terrible for bottom tier double hung double pane windows We're getting the Series 8100 single hung windows with the optional ultra low-E glass and argon gas fillings, plus lifetime warranties on everything. So yeah, not their fanciest windows, but I'm betting (hoping) they're much better than the ones we have now that were installed in the 1960s. And the install company has rock solid customer ratings. * The windows by themselves are $3,628 total, so about $360 per window. The labor is $850, which per the invoice they gave us includes "window removal/haul away, window installation, ensuring proper sealing and caulking of the windows, and a clean-up after the install". Total cost of windows plus labor is $4,478 or just under $450 per window.
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# ? May 6, 2022 19:27 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 22:40 |
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Size also matters. If these are 4" x 4" postage stamp windows you're getting screwed on markup. If these are 120" x 120" large picture windows you're getting screwed on quality.
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# ? May 6, 2022 21:09 |
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I need to look at the measurement sheet they gave us to get exact dimensions, but it's 3 small windows, 6 "standard-size" windows, and one bigger than standard window, for whatever that's worth.
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# ? May 6, 2022 23:15 |
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Those are all meaningless terms and if they are being used on a quote or while discussing a quote you are being taken for a ride. A very likely scenario is that you end up with THEIR "standard" size window that is the biggest that will fit in your actual window opening leaving a hilarious amount of boxing out to bridge the gap.
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# ? May 6, 2022 23:28 |
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I have a pair of small water stains (one hand-sized and the other a third of that) on the kitchen ceiling and another (roughly two hands) on the guest bedroom closet ceiling; They're all at least three years old; they were present when I bought the house and haven't changed in that time. Unfortunately, a new stain about the size of a throw pillow appeared in the master bedroom closet a couple of months ago. I had a roofer come out, inspect the whole thing, and make some repairs that came out to $700. They have a team that does interior repairs, and the estimator for that finally came out. He looked at the four stains, said "none of these require any drywall replacement; we would just hit them with two coats of stain killer and two coats of paint," and then quoted me $850 for the job. They would be painting the whole kitchen ceiling, but that's a 10'x10' room, and the other two areas would just be the little closets. The ceiling is textured so that's annoying. This is pretty clearly a "this job is too small to bother with, so I'm going to quote a ridiculous price so that we don't have to bother with it" quote, right? Also... what's stain killer? I'd never heard of that before.
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# ? May 7, 2022 01:46 |
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surf rock posted:I have a pair of small water stains (one hand-sized and the other a third of that) on the kitchen ceiling and another (roughly two hands) on the guest bedroom closet ceiling; They're all at least three years old; they were present when I bought the house and haven't changed in that time. Stain killer/ Kilz https://www.lowes.com/pd/KILZ-2-Int...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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# ? May 7, 2022 01:58 |
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Motronic posted:Those are all meaningless terms and if they are being used on a quote or while discussing a quote you are being taken for a ride. They aren't, and they weren't. I was in a rush to go to the gym when I typed that post and said "standard" to mean what I considered a normal size window to be because I didn't have the measurements sheet in front of me. I can post the actual window measurements tomorrow if anyone cares.
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# ? May 7, 2022 08:03 |
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Here's the actual answer. No one really knows because we don't know your market and windows are like beds you end up with a lot of different variables and pricing for those variables.
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# ? May 7, 2022 12:26 |
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re: windowchat; the amount of variance in pricing and apparently high demand for windows is surprising to me as someone that’s never owned a home. are windows just the most likely to be replaced part of a house?
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# ? May 7, 2022 14:15 |
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kitten emergency posted:re: windowchat; the amount of variance in pricing and apparently high demand for windows is surprising to me as someone that’s never owned a home. are windows just the most likely to be replaced part of a house? Windows are complex to make and double glazing is expensive. There's also a huge range of appearance/quality with windows, from the low end of vinyl with little strips to look like fake mullions up to true divided light, aluminum clad solid wood windows and everything in between.
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# ? May 7, 2022 14:20 |
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kitten emergency posted:re: windowchat; the amount of variance in pricing and apparently high demand for windows is surprising to me as someone that’s never owned a home. are windows just the most likely to be replaced part of a house? I've replaced windows at all 3 houses ive owned - 40s, 60s, and currently 80s. Clearly the previous owners never did so I guess it depends on the owner? In all of those cases I also added a deck and a new patio door almost immediately to have useable outdoor space so those went along. Sidenote it seemed insane to me that these places didn't have decks and patio doors with large yards, smh.
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# ? May 7, 2022 14:34 |
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Standard size window chat reminds me of tattoo artists who ask how big a client wants a tattoo and they say the same thing, or like "hand sized" lol
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# ? May 7, 2022 14:38 |
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kitten emergency posted:re: windowchat; the amount of variance in pricing and apparently high demand for windows is surprising to me as someone that’s never owned a home. are windows just the most likely to be replaced part of a house? Windows depending on construction seem to have a lifespan of 30 - 180 years.
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# ? May 7, 2022 15:07 |
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Thanks for all the comments on gas/electric. I think we're going to end up with an induction stove, and a propane or natural gas grill (which one depends on whether we want to spend $200 or $700). You're all always helpful
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# ? May 7, 2022 15:24 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:Windows depending on construction seem to have a lifespan of 30 - 180 years. it is kinda wild. i suppose windows and roofs as the two most likely failure points make sense, because that’s where there’s gaps in the structure (and where water is most likely to get)
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# ? May 7, 2022 15:39 |
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Also, Windowchat. Warranty is huge. What is the warranty, exactly? Include labor? Entire sealed unit no questions asked? Pro-rated after the first year? From the date of install or the date they were manufactured? Even quality windows fail from time to time or have a bad batch. Should be minimal, but it can happen. I had 3 sealed units (all from within the week manufacture) of a respected window manufacturer fail after approx 5 years. The factory guy came to my house and swapped the sealed units and didn't cost me a dime (and a couple of them were awkward as hell to get to). Speaking to others, that does not sound like the norm after a couple years.
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# ? May 7, 2022 15:57 |
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my house (the addition) has windows from 1960, they were not taken care of. I will be replacing them with horrid white vinyl pieces of poo poo to match the ones that WERE replaced by PO. The frames in bad shape, they hadn't been re-gazed in quite some time. I have one that I can't open the storms on to re-glaze and won't try to until I know that I can get storm windows made and or have the cash and time to replace with one from lowedepot. If you take care of windows they last. if you dont' paint them / the sills / re-glaze (older single pane ones) etc, they'll be poo poo.
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# ? May 7, 2022 16:01 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:Windows depending on construction seem to have a lifespan of 30 - 180 years. Remember that thing where they thought glass was liquid. Look at the windows from the middle ages, they're all thicker at the bottom. Oh wait, they just installed them thick side down.
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# ? May 7, 2022 16:26 |
What do people like for leak / water detectors / alarms? I had some aquara sensors set up on Home Assistant and woke up this morning to a flooding kitchen and to find that my connection to home assistant had timed out the day before for some reason (seems to do that fairly regularly due to some issue with nabucasa). Anyways, the faucet failed again (seriously don't ever buy Moen, this is the 3rd faucet in a row to fail from them in 3 yrs) and leaked out under the sink. I'd like to have a battery powered water sensing audio alarm. Looking around Amazon there are a dozen + different kinds out there and just wanted to see if anyone has one they like or can vouch for before grabbing one at random.
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# ? May 7, 2022 16:34 |
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That Works posted:What do people like for leak / water detectors / alarms? I just bought this one last week: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J9HZ5VN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Has a nice little dashboard and the sensors take standard batteries and respond with an alarm + text + email to the tiniest bit of water.
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# ? May 7, 2022 17:19 |
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Speaking of alarms, any recommendations for an alarm for a chest freezer in the basement to detect temperature drops? The ones I see on Amazon mostly say they’re too quiet to hear if the freezer is in the basement.
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# ? May 7, 2022 17:34 |
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nwin posted:Speaking of alarms, any recommendations for an alarm for a chest freezer in the basement to detect temperature drops? The ones I see on Amazon mostly say they’re too quiet to hear if the freezer is in the basement. I have Sensorpush sensors for my guitars and a wifi gateway for remote monitoring. One day I tossed one in the deep freezer, and lo and behold the signal still reached the gateway. Highly recommend.
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# ? May 7, 2022 19:12 |
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Alright, this thread seems faster moving these days than the Home Ownership one. Since moving into my condo a year ago I've discovered a litany of things ignored or hidden by PO, here's another. Getting water from the red area during heavy storms, enough to have a puddle on the floor large enough to saturate a big towel. Seems like I now have to deal with this lest I end up rotting the window out, my floor, or downstairs neighbor. Now I'm down the time/money sink rathole of finding contractors. One charged me $120 for his time and is making a proposal for a bandaid fix with sealing which will not be guaranteed. He said the end-all fix would be replacing all 3 of these units, that seems like at least a $10k all in job, and one homeowners insurance will not touch since it's wear/tear. Masonry work has been done on my building but the mason says there are no current issues with masonry flashing or bricks anywhere above my unit. I'm not on the top floor so it's not a roof issue. Masonry is under HOA, all window/door assemblies in my HOA are the unit owner responsibility unfortunately. Any thoughts or should I spend $10k+ to rip out and replace this giant window/door arrangement? Sucks if I spend $1k-2k on professional sealing needing to rent a work platform and poo poo, just for it to leak anyway and need to replace. I am trying to get a specialty window/wall water intrusion guy to come out but his assessment is going to be $350, and likely will recommend replacing anyway I am guessing. (Yes the PO installed the blinds off center ) Inner Light fucked around with this message at 23:24 on May 7, 2022 |
# ? May 7, 2022 23:01 |
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Inner Light posted:I'm not on the top floor so it's not a roof issue. This is not a safe assumption. It could be a result of water rolling down the facade if there's a gutter or roof problem above you.
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# ? May 7, 2022 23:08 |
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Inner Light posted:Alright, this thread seems faster moving these days that the Home Ownership one. Since moving into my condo a year ago I've discovered a litany of things ignored or hidden by PO, here's another. It's leaking in from outside. Post pictures of the opening(s) from outside, as close as you can zoom & showing an area of the elevations around the opening(s), particularly at the top if possible (probably not, but hey) Irrespective of what the mason is saying, it's leaking in from outside, either from the top &/or sides of the window you showed, or through the door/ window on the floor above it, if there's another opening stacked above the door set you showed. Once you confirm that that is what it is & pinpoint the source, it is up to the building maintenance to fix it, unless you have by-laws that really suck (possible)
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# ? May 7, 2022 23:09 |
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PainterofCrap posted:It's leaking in from outside. Post pictures of the opening(s) from outside, as close as you can zoom & showing an area of the elevations around the opening(s), particularly at the top if possible (probably not, but hey) (I know the photo sucks, it is hard to get a zoom to the exact part I need to) Re: possibility of roof issue, yeah I shouldn't have said that. The trouble is, the burden of proof seems to be on me to pinpoint where it is coming from. I can't keep bankrolling a complicated inspection of a multi unit building. This is a classic HOA vs. resident situation unfortunately. The HOA is insisting the roof and masonry are fine so I seem to be stuck right now unless my water inspection guy, that I pay for, has a eureka moment.
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# ? May 7, 2022 23:17 |
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Tezer posted:It's the natural issue with combustion byproducts combined with modern air tightness standards and the general allergy people have to properly ventilating their kitchens. Old houses win again. (Please ignore the energy bill).
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# ? May 8, 2022 01:12 |
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Inner Light posted:
Is the opening above yours part of another unit, or do you have a 2-story unit? I'm betting that it has something to do with the tiny Juliet balcony up there. If your water guy can get access to that opening & inspect inside & out (assuming the doors or whatever they are can be opened) there may lay your Eureka moment. On the other hand: if that room above yours is also exhibiting water damage, it may be coming in even higher up.
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# ? May 8, 2022 02:21 |
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PainterofCrap posted:Is the opening above yours part of another unit, or do you have a 2-story unit? Nope my unit is 1 story, that is another unit up there (and another one above it as well). I'll try to work through the association or knock on his door to see if he'll check for any issues, but who knows with condo buildings. I will see if we can cooperate enough to get my water guy up there. The single door in the middle opens, each door/window on either side does not, they are like permanently stationary doors. The builder in 2002 was on some hardcore drugs. The casing is also not level, as if this was built in 1902. One of the folks I spoke to was skeptical that it was coming from above rather than my own window since my drywall/paint above the window casing shows no damage :-/ but it was so much water I'm not sure. SFH is stressful in other ways but so many advantages over a condo, god drat.
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# ? May 8, 2022 03:01 |
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A leak from the unit above does not necessarily have to enter at the header (above your window). If there is any gap at all in the framing, water will run there. It may be easier to leave Post-It notes on the doors of the units above yours, asking whether or not they are sustaining water penetration around that particular opening. I would leave on on the door at every floor, all the way to the top. Still wondering how you are responsible for exterior weatherproofing issues. I get that your by-laws may include the window & door units within your unit boundaries, but this is not the window or door leaking. It is also completely on-brand for the building manager/condo association president etc. to say or do anything to deflect responsibility away for the condo master policy or the Association. They generally have no idea what the by-laws say. They will lie in casual and convincing ways. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:33 on May 8, 2022 |
# ? May 8, 2022 03:30 |
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PainterofCrap posted:A leak from the unit above does not necessarily have to enter at the header (above your window). If there is any gap at all in the framing, water will run there. Thanks for all the tips man. Some quotes below. Mason: quote:Just a quick update. I sent the crew back out to inspect the area and apply a bit of extra sealant. If the leaks continue after this work has been completed it is likely an issue with the door to Inner Light's unit or if the leak is at the top of his door then it is likely an issue with the door weather stripping on the floor above Inner Light's unit. We would recommend a window contractor to inspect these two doors if leaks continue. Water intrusion contractor: quote:HI Inner Light, And still more, the general contractor guy who looked said he could try re-caulking my windows/door (not warrantied) for at least $1k (need to rent a work platform etc.), and if that didn't work would have to quote out replacement of the windows/door. Basically, I am being screwed by the bylaws language that says any window/door issue or repair is on the individual unit owner. Unless I can point to some evidence saying it is coming from masonry, I am stuck. Will keep digging on this.... :-/ Inner Light fucked around with this message at 04:29 on May 8, 2022 |
# ? May 8, 2022 04:25 |
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It. Is. Not. a window/door issue. It is a BUILDING WEATHERPROOFING ISSUE. This is a building management problem, NOT YOURS. Your responsibility for will be spelled out in the by-laws, specifically the sections that define what is a common element versus what the unit boundaries are. These are defined in two different areas of the by-laws document. If you have a .PDF of your by-laws and want me to go through them, I'll PM you an email address. I get that your unit boundary definitions may include "exterior windows and doors" but the weatherproofing (where those things join the building & the outside face of the building) are a collective responsibility, because those are part of the exterior weather proofing (like the roof & the brickwork). Once you establish that it's coming from another unit, but affecting yours, it is absolutely, incontrovertibly, a building management / maintenance issue. Rare is the building management that owes up to their responsibility. Do you have any damage to your unit? Because one great way to cut this gordian knot is to report a claim to the condo master insurer, and have an adjuster out, who will investigate & determine the cause & origin of the leaking, The fact that it's affecting multiple units is a good reason to report it. I did this all the time as a commercial adjuster. I have handled losses from the unit-owners, and for the condo master. Get a written estimate from your contractor, as well as the cause & origin report, and make sure the condo management gets a copy. Your building management will resist this mightily. gently caress them. What state are you in? PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:47 on May 8, 2022 |
# ? May 8, 2022 04:40 |
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PainterofCrap posted:It. Is. Not. a window/door issue. That is exactly what I am fighting them on, so any insight would be great. I am in Illinois, and have a copy of all the declarations/rules/CCRs. They (board and property manager) are reading the 'windows and doors are unit owner responsibility' as meaning any leak, even from flashing or weatherproofing as a part of the window/door install, is the fault of the owner. Unless it is coming from masonry. The $120 I paid to a guy will include an estimate sometime next week, but he said it will not include cause/origin, he will only mention possible causes. For the $350 water intrusion report I have sent a message to the board to see if they will help cover it, if they keep repeatedly pushing back I may have to bite the bullet on the $350 myself. When I get your PM I can start sending stuff over, please do not spend too much time looking at this stuff as a favor and only read any part of it if you want, I very much appreciate your expertise here. There has not been any VISIBLE damage caused while I've lived here for a year, because luckily I've watched like a hawk and cleaned up puddles, but there is suspect previous damage to the flooring. Which the PO poorly tried to repair. Not sure if I put a hole in the drywall or tore back the framing around the window, if we would see water rot, I would say it's likely. It would be great to get the HOA insurance involved if we can, I can ask about that at the quarterly board meeting which is conveniently Monday. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 04:57 on May 8, 2022 |
# ? May 8, 2022 04:54 |
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Ok what's the deal with fencing? Everyone keeps telling me I can get one for like 10 11k and yet the last two estimates I got were for 20 and 54k!?
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# ? May 8, 2022 12:29 |
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You have to know there’s entirely no way anyone here can react to your post with that level of detail.
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# ? May 8, 2022 12:36 |
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Depends on the fence type, height, length, and number of corners and gates. How many linear feet are your quotes and what type of material? I'd say wood is generally twice as expensive as chain link, maybe more now (I last checked pre rona)
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# ? May 8, 2022 12:44 |
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HootTheOwl posted:Ok what's the deal with fencing? I can tell you for 392 feet of 6 foot pressure treated stockade I was quoted $7,800 last November. I balked, and decided to just do half the yard for now (we were always planning on partitioning the yard anyways) and to do it myself. I have still spent $3,500 dollars on materials. (Which is just about what they were quoting for materials for the larger job 6 months ago - Lumber made another huge jump in January). If 'everyone' is folks you know relaying their experience from a few years ago, and the quotes you're getting are from contractors who are buying lumber at today's prices, that alone would account for the 20k bid. The 54k bid was a guy that owed the wrong people some money.
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# ? May 8, 2022 12:46 |
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Inner Light posted:That is exactly what I am fighting them on, so any insight would be great. I am in Illinois, and have a copy of all the declarations/rules/CCRs. They (board and property manager) are reading the 'windows and doors are unit owner responsibility' as meaning any leak, even from flashing or weatherproofing as a part of the window/door install, is the fault of the owner. Unless it is coming from masonry.
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# ? May 8, 2022 13:06 |
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I had a similar issue to the OP (water ingress, building management not dealing with it). The guttering above our window (not our responsibility) was overflowing into the wall cavity, water would then run down the wall until it hit our window lintel and then cause damp around the top of the window and the sides. Tell tell sign is that damp appears not immediately above the window, but about 20 cm above (the height of the lintel). Fortunately I could access the guttering via a balcony, and the downspouts were getting blocked because the turn had a massive dent in it which would catch even the smallest amount of detritus. I just decided to make it their issue by removing the turn entirely, which stopped my problem! Caused a lot of damage elsewhere though. Shame. There is no way that wind blown rain is going to force enough water through the window seal to soak a towel. The water is coming from above, probably an overflowing gutter or drain on a balcony.
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# ? May 8, 2022 14:06 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 22:40 |
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HootTheOwl posted:Ok what's the deal with fencing? Yes e: 8' stockade fence, warped all to hell, is about $100 for an 8-foot section at my local Lowe's. HTH.
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# ? May 8, 2022 15:18 |