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Aurium posted:Just an expression of difficulty of a small individual thing, frequently trivial, often chronic, often common. I've got an Ender 3 V2 in my cart right now. It's what I was suggested to get 4 pages back, anyway. What are some must have add ones and what is a good brand of stock filament?
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May 10, 2022 05:38
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Marsupial Ape posted:I'm eye-balling the Prusa Mini + pretty hard. Is the official website the only place to get them? They're saying there's a lead time of 13-14 weeks. That’s the only place to get it, and I love my original Mini. I really can’t recommend it enough to anyone especially folks looking for something low hassle.
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May 10, 2022 06:09
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Marsupial Ape posted:what is a good brand of stock filament? Polymaker, Inland, Hatchbox Tbh I've never had a problem with any filament I can remember, but the Prusa Mk3 does "Just work." Polymaker is definitely a great call, though. Stick to PLA for now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QMBPZBF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
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May 10, 2022 06:18
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Just get the Mini+. If you don't like the hobby, it retains value well.
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May 10, 2022 06:48
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I ordered the Ender 3 V2. I realized I need the print space for some specific speaker enclosures I want to build. Thanks for the patience and input, everybody.
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May 10, 2022 08:03
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I've been printing on a bone stock ender 3 v2 and it's been reliable and printed well. After the first year I added a BLtouch to calibrate out the small dishing of the glass bed and I haven't had any complaints.
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May 10, 2022 11:50
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I got lucky with my 3v2 in that the build plate is pretty much perfectly flat. So I can use the spring steel sheets without ABL. Just the yellow springs are fine for keeping everything in shape.
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May 10, 2022 12:54
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My $100 Ender Pro has a stock bed out of the box that is potato chip shaped enough that I can't print on it. Don't actually care enough to fix it just yet. Probably going to just buy a glass bed at some point but hobby money is going towards a Mono X so I can finish Warhammer 40k armies I started in the mid-90s.
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May 10, 2022 13:08
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Free stuff: runout sensor microswitches and 12V LED strip. I ordered a bunch of microswitches to make a runout sensor. If anybody would like one mailed to them, drop me a PM and I'll put one in the mail. There are a few printable designs for runout sensor attachments on an Ender 3. I used one with a bearing, and then also printed a JST-PH connector that I crammed wires into in order to attach it to the motherboard. I didn't like that the switch was normally open, given my janky connector, so I recompiled a Marlin firmware too, which I'd be happy to send to any goons who want a normally closed runout sensor. Another upgrade I found useful was to print some mounts for 12V LED strip, so I can watch progress on the $5 webcam my dad gave me. Wired in series, that works out to 24V and can go onto the power supply. I'm happy to mail little lengths of this stuff too, just tell me how much you'd like. You'll need to glue it in since it's reclaimed from being under cabinet lighting and the adhesive is worn out. This in what the lights do to the area: 
cruft fucked around with this message at 14:30 on May 10, 2022 |
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May 10, 2022 13:53
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Marsupial Ape posted:I'm eye-balling the Prusa Mini + pretty hard. Is the official website the only place to get them? They're saying there's a lead time of 13-14 weeks. They build them to order, and Prusa is an egomaniac, so yes. You can get them on eBay for a markup that's anywhere between slight and holy-poo poo-what-are-you-smoking? You are overthinking this. Trust me, I was there. Anything name brand will be fine and have plenty of support. These are Ender, Elegoo, Prusa, Anycubic, and I guess Voxelabs (although I have no experience with one - someone will have to warn you if that's a bad choice). Allow me to suggest narrowing the field. Your first printer doesn't have to be your last - and in fact it very probably won't. 1. Just get an Ender 3 / Elegoo Neptune 2. I put these together because the Elegoo is essentially the same machine as the Ender, and can take the same parts. This is arguably the most common entry point, and while it's not the best printer in the world, it's perfectly acceptable and it's ubiquitous. It's a fine and conservative starting printer. Starting Estimate with supplies and everything - $250-$500 2. Just get the Prusa Mini+. This is the 'luxury' choice since it's more expensive, but it's also a better printer One caveat here is that the print bed is smaller than the ender, but it also takes up less space. It too has a very large support community and is a popular printer, although less so than the ender. On the upside, Prussa's support as I've experienced it is superb, whereas Ender is hit and miss, mostly miss. Starting Estimate with supplies and everything - $600-750 If the cost of both is within your budget, just flip a coin and get on with it, seriously. E: Whoops there's another page and I'm too late.  Welp, I'm sure some lurker will benefit. 
Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 15:19 on May 10, 2022 |
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May 10, 2022 15:16
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I would say that $600 is on the high end - you can get a maxed out Mini+ kit, nippers, and spool of filament for $500. I don’t really know what else a newbie would need from the get go. It’s a pretty complete kit.
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May 10, 2022 16:59
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Marsupial Ape posted:I'm eye-balling the Prusa Mini + pretty hard. Is the official website the only place to get them? They're saying there's a lead time of 13-14 weeks. That's the shipping time for the kit version, the pre-assembled parts version is only 2-3 weeks and will save you 6 hours of assembly time.
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May 10, 2022 17:49
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 Print was right to left, top to bottom. First panel looks fine. It had one bad spot but as you move to the left it gets rough and I stopped it before the next layer failed. It got progressively worse over about an hour. It's ABS in an enclosure at 260 thru a steel nozzle. Enclosure was only up to around 30-32C. I just cleaned my sheet, but maybe it needs another round? I also suppose it could be the z-level being slightly too close, or the level is off on the left side? Humidity in the area is going up, but we're talking 20% going to 40%. Any ideas why it's pilling up? Edit: taking a look at the nozzle now, it's a little messy but not as bad as I thought. There is some leakage at the heatbreak but no telling when that happened. Vaporware fucked around with this message at 18:51 on May 10, 2022 |
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May 10, 2022 18:30
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heat creep
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May 10, 2022 18:52
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The waves on the top left print indicates printing too close to the bed, but you have other issues as well.
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May 10, 2022 19:05
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I blame my father It was making an unusual sound when it was printing those waves. Maybe binding?
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May 10, 2022 19:29
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So I posted last week about my prints failing with too many extrusions. I finally figured out the issue, my extruder spring had weakened to the point the filament was slipping. I've printed a cap to compress it some more and got a working print. Of course its now clicking, but that just means I need a thinner cap, and they take minutes to print.
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May 10, 2022 20:21
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springs are like a nickel my dude
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May 10, 2022 20:39
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And a whole aluminum extruder is 
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May 10, 2022 21:06
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Is there a thread for woodworking CNC machines, or is anyone here familiar with current models?
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May 10, 2022 21:28
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Is there a thread for woodworking CNC machines, or is anyone here familiar with current models? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3558051
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May 10, 2022 21:40
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meatpimp posted:Is there a thread for woodworking CNC machines, or is anyone here familiar with current models? Combine your love of 3d printing and woodworking and cnc and make a Lowrider: 
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May 10, 2022 21:57
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I saw that one and didn't know if my question was appropriate, posted anyway, thanks! NomNomNom posted:Combine your love of 3d printing and woodworking and cnc and make a Lowrider: Right now, I'm looking at PrintNC, but that's a pretty nice rig, too.
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May 10, 2022 22:20
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NomNomNom posted:Combine your love of 3d printing and woodworking and cnc and make a Lowrider: In the same vein I'm builder an rs-cnc32. Doesn't do full sheets but not really needed in my case
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May 10, 2022 22:25
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Doctor Zero posted:They build them to order, and Prusa is an egomaniac, so yes. You can get them on eBay for a markup that's anywhere between slight and holy-poo poo-what-are-you-smoking? Thanks, anyway. I went with Ender because I need the space to make enclosures and widgets for my audio projects. The Prusa is on my “this time next year” list.
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May 10, 2022 22:36
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Marsupial Ape posted:I've got an Ender 3 V2 in my cart right now. It's what I was suggested to get 4 pages back, anyway. What are some must have add ones and what is a good brand of stock filament? 2 major upgrades. The yellow stiffer bed springs. The ones that come with it are weak enough that there isn't really enough tension to keep the screw from turning. Then the bed moves up or down unpredictably and makes it unreliable. You can also go with the silicone spacers, I don't have any experience with them, but many people have used both, both work fine. If they're well manufactured, I suspect the silicone may have the advantage, as they have a default alignment, but that relies on a few things having good tolerance. An aluminum extruder. The plastic one that comes with the ender will probably crack on you. Sometimes it takes days, sometimes it takes months. Skip the dual gear one. It's much more temperamental to setup, and will damage itself if it's setup wrong. You can get kits that come with those 2 things, as well as bed adjustment wheels for cheap. These are extremely easy upgrades that will vastly increase reliability. A similar upgrade kit also has a Capricorn tube. It wouldn't be bad to buy, at least if you don't lose it, but skip installing it immediately. That's a much harder upgrade to do, with a larger likelihood of going badly wrong. Skip a direct drive extruder. Skip a new hotend. The former is more for flexibles and which aren't for a beginner, the latter is for hotter materials, or when you use it enough that you're tired of redoing the bowden tube. Skip bltouch. It's a reasonable upgrade with some nice advantages, but the springs do 90% of the work. You need to get minimum functionality without it. Also it's one more thing that can be a problem to setup. The v2 comes with a silent board so skip that as an upgrade. The included glass bed is fine. It's not my first choice, but it's fine. My recommendation is to wash it with dish soap until it's incredibly clean (including getting the soap back off), and avoid touching it. Isopropanol is good for maintaining a clean surface. Other people will recommend things like hairspray or glue stick. Whatever. The only one I'll tell you to skip is blue tape. Glue stick is really good for petg, it can stick well enough to damage a bed. Ultimately I'd recommend a pei coated spring steel bed, but I don't really know of a good upgrade kit. The default ender cooling setup could be better. Many people recommend the satsana, which you print yourself. It's more of a thing if you want to print faster. Some people indicate it can also help with some quality issues. The ender 3v2 has a different cooling solution which may be better? I'd probably skip it, until you decide to start tinkering.
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May 10, 2022 23:04
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NomNomNom posted:Combine your love of 3d printing and woodworking and cnc and make a Lowrider: I'm waiting on some nuts and bolts to start assembly of my Primo.
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May 10, 2022 23:08
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Everything Aurium wrote is spot on and awesome advice.  What cracks on the extruder, the arm? Mine's still okay, I guess. I'll second getting a spray bottle of isopropyl alchohol for the glass bed. It helps a whole lot. And be patient. I got the PEI coated steel spring bed by Comgrow and it's fabulous. In closing, Aurium is a top-tier poster about Ender 3 upgrades. E: In the interest of fairness, a post by w00tmonger gave me essentially the same advice and I ought to thank them again for that. EE: I've been printing with the Creality PLA and it's been trouble-free, so I ordered a second spool of it. cruft fucked around with this message at 23:39 on May 10, 2022 |
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May 10, 2022 23:33
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cruft posted:
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/kw8ksp/my_extruder_lever_cracked/ You don't see it from the front. The primary symptom is lots of under extrusion and ground filament.
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May 10, 2022 23:55
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Doctor Zero posted:Anything name brand will be fine and have plenty of support. These are Ender, Elegoo, Prusa, Anycubic, and I guess Voxelabs (although I have no experience with one - someone will have to warn you if that's a bad choice). I have a Voxelab Aquila X2, and I would stay clear of them. They've cheaped out on the system boards in the newest models such that custom firmware doesn't run well on them. They tout that they have Meanwell power supplies, but I and many other people have found that to not be true. It's not a garbage PS, but if you sell the brand name, you should be including it. I ended up swapping my system board for a Creality 4.2.7 board, so it's basically an Ender 3 V2 now.
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May 11, 2022 00:10
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Marsupial Ape posted:Thanks, anyway. I went with Ender because I need the space to make enclosures and widgets for my audio projects. The Prusa is on my “this time next year” list. Ender's are the move and justify themselves just because their cheap as dick. Definitely upgrade the springs and the extruder arm in the back if it's metal (I think there's some kits on Amazon that have a bunch of the common upgrades in it for cheap). Prusas are great, but it's an insane recommendation if you haven't tooled around with printers enough to know if it's a hobby you want to get into. I have a voron 0.1, Prusa mk3s, and an ender 3 and they all rip
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May 11, 2022 00:38
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I'm going to buck the trend and recommend shelling out a few extra bucks for silicone spacers, because they are as much (or even more) of an improvement over the yellow springs as the yellow ones are over the stock springs.
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May 11, 2022 00:49
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Grey Hunter posted:So I posted last week about my prints failing with too many extrusions. I finally figured out the issue, my extruder spring had weakened to the point the filament was slipping. I've printed a cap to compress it some more and got a working print. You are describing, to a T, the symptoms of this:  If you still have a plastic extruder ITT, check under the arm and it almost certainly looks like that. When, not if. Javid fucked around with this message at 01:09 on May 11, 2022 |
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May 11, 2022 01:07
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I am really appreciating the advice. If the glass bed is 'fine', which one is optimal?
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May 11, 2022 01:35
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Steel/PEI is better if you're starting from zero. If you HAVE glass already, hairspray on that will be a bigger upgrade.
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May 11, 2022 01:42
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Javid posted:Steel/PEI is better if you're starting from zero. If you HAVE glass already, hairspray on that will be a bigger upgrade. The creality pei sheet specifically is really well done. Huge fan
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May 11, 2022 01:59
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Javid posted:You are describing, to a T, the symptoms of this: God no, its metal. Deviant posted:springs are like a nickel my dude Doctor Zero posted:And a whole aluminum extruder is But thats means going out and getting one/waiting for the post man, when I have a printer sitting right here......
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May 11, 2022 08:46
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cruft posted:Everything Aurium wrote is spot on and awesome advice. I’ll go a little stronger than Aurium and say DO NOT get an all-metal hot end replacement until you know what you are doing. I put one on my ender 5 and had a shitload of issues that I couldn’t solve because I didn’t understand how it all worked. I ended up taking it off again. Also, yeah the Creality PLA is surprisingly acceptable. It’s not the best, but it’s a fine starter PLA.
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May 11, 2022 15:28
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idgi. What issues are you going to run into with an all metal hot end? Doesn’t it mainly just ditch a plastic sleeve on the inside? I put the Microswiss all metal hot end on my E3v2 and all I had to do was boost material temps by 5C. I didn’t even have to recalibrate the esteps.
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May 11, 2022 15:50
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Tiny Timbs posted:idgi. What issues are you going to run into with an all metal hot end? Doesn’t it mainly just ditch a plastic sleeve on the inside? The bowden/PLA combo with all metal can cause sticking to the internal metal surfaces and clogging. Usually gets triggered with repeated retractions, like I printed an almost fine benchy but once it got to the 4 corners of the cabin it started showing signs of clogging with underextrusion. This wasn't with an ender, was with a hypercube I built with a bowden extruder and a titanium heatbreak, but it's the problem people run into with all metal and should be aware of.
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May 11, 2022 15:58
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