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Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

a whole month? im totally new to roses but familiar w other stuff, it can take that long in the warm weather? i have a lot to learn. honestly im well chuffed by the growth from the others so im impatient that this one is taking its time :D

ive wanted to grow roses for so long but never had the yard to do it with...... until now :madmax:

A whole month isn’t really abnormal for many plants with bareroots. They may be working, you just don’t get to see what they’re doing yet.

That said, roses can be temperamental and just straight up not do what they’re supposed to do, so don’t be sad when they just manage to die for no apparent reason either.

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Meaty Ore
Dec 17, 2011

My God, it's full of cat pictures!

Jhet posted:

A whole month isn’t really abnormal for many plants with bareroots. They may be working, you just don’t get to see what they’re doing yet.

That said, roses can be temperamental and just straight up not do what they’re supposed to do, so don’t be sad when they just manage to die for no apparent reason either.

Also depends on the type of rose; the impression I've gotten is that roses are a whole world of gardening unto themselves, totally apart from other flowers. Also try checking in with the horticulture thread for more advice; it's more geared towards landscaping/decorative plant advice.

Anedcdotally, and having nothing to do with roses, three years ago I planted eight peony tubers and the entire first year, only half of them did anything. It turned out I had buried half of them too deep; after digging them up and replanting closer to the surface, all of them are now thriving. So don't let so little time with no activity make you give up on that one plant.

Solkanar512
Dec 28, 2006

by the sex ghost

Lead out in cuffs posted:

I do love seeing places that obviously planted a western red cedar hedge several decades ago and whoops now it's a row of trees 50' tall.

Also places where the landscaper has stuck a nice cute little row of them 1' from the wall of the house.

Are you certain that these aren't purpose-grown wind breaks? I see this with poplars all the time.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Jhet posted:

A whole month isn’t really abnormal for many plants with bareroots. They may be working, you just don’t get to see what they’re doing yet.

Absolutely this. As a long time rose grower, though, I haven't found them super fussy except in North Carolina clay. And I'm a neglectful gardener; I rarely remember to fertilize or spray.

quote:

don’t be sad when they just manage to die for no apparent reason either.

This is the worst gardening lesson. poo poo just randomly dies. Unless you stick to zinnias and marigolds.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

anyone have any good inexpensive landscape edging ideas? specifically to edge 18"x18" rose beds. i'd love raw steel but $$ so i'm probably gonna cut fence pickets into stakes and use that.

Also--how long do you give a bare root rose to start growing before declaring it a dud? Planted 8 roses four days ago, 7 have shown new growth since. nothing yet from the other one, even though all the canes are green

Depends on how low cost you mean. You can get edging bricks that interlock at lowes depot for a couple bucks a foot.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Absolutely this. As a long time rose grower, though, I haven't found them super fussy except in North Carolina clay. And I'm a neglectful gardener; I rarely remember to fertilize or spray.

Yeah, and one year they may be perfectly happy, the next barely do anything at all, then the third they'll double in size. I've noticed that vining roses are much more forgiving, but shrub roses are just pretty and fragrant.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Old-fashioned climbing roses on their own roots are nigh indestructible here. They get black spot, drop all their leaves, do not give a gently caress, grow more leaves, grow more flowers, keep plowing on until they become giant garden monsters. Lots of old roses come in both climbing and shrub varieties and have incredible fragrance They do take a year or three to get settled in and roses in general don’t like competition. They’re happiest with a few feet of mulch between them and their neighbors, and they’ll love about all the fertilizer you give them.

Hybrid tea roses are fickle little princesses that I can’t be bothered to grow. Knockouts are easy to grow but don’t smell, so what’s even the point. I’ve never had good luck with grafted roses of any sort, but I think that’s mostly to do with my very hot, wet, climate and mediocre drainage. With the graft and rootstock they have to be planted too deep to thrive.

David Austen roses are fantastic and combine some of the brighter colors of hybrid teas with the fuller growth habit, nice cabbagey flower shape, and much of the hardiness and vigor of old roses.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


stuff is in the ground stuff is in the ground this is the stressful time when you hope it doesn't die but it's also exciting because stuff is in the groundddd

Organic Lube User
Apr 15, 2005

I've heard them called humility domes, and brother, that ain't a lie.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Whoo, transplanted the Meyer lemon and the Queen Cox apple into their final pots, at least for this year. Drilled drainage holes in several more pots, planted about half the herbs, and the lilies. So drat tired.

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

a whole month? im totally new to roses but familiar w other stuff, it can take that long in the warm weather? i have a lot to learn. honestly im well chuffed by the growth from the others so im impatient that this one is taking its time :D

ive wanted to grow roses for so long but never had the yard to do it with...... until now :madmax:

I'm in sunny California and planted a bunch of bare root fruit trees in Feb, the last one JUST started budding out. Patience :)

Nukelear v.2
Jun 25, 2004
My optional title text
Is this where I bitch about rabbits? I thought 3ft high raised beds would have been safe but it seems their reputation for jumping is well founded. I have all the gaps between my fence and the ground I can see covered in steel mesh, but it seems they are still finding ways in.

They've completely wiped out my garlic, green onions, green beans and strawberries. For some reason they've left the tomatoes and peppers alone, so I guess I can still make salsa.

Progressive JPEG
Feb 19, 2003

We put out some pindone poison pellets in bait stations here. Getting sick of rabbits chowing down on the native seedlings.

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

anyone have any good inexpensive landscape edging ideas? specifically to edge 18"x18" rose beds. i'd love raw steel but $$ so i'm probably gonna cut fence pickets into stakes and use that.

Landscape timbers, maybe? Pretty dirt cheap relative to most wood, usually <$1 per foot. They don't look too bad and you can do a lot with them. Might be cheaper than fence pickets.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Bambi and Thumper have it coming.

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?
Did you just cover the gaps, or did you actually dig the fencing into the ground? If you're not getting something down at least 6" then rabbits and other burrowing animals will get in. They can jump low fences, but it's pretty unlikely that's what's happening unless you're catching them in the act.

For what it's worth we have an insane number of rabbits here and I've never seen them in the garden or seen any evidence that they're getting in. Going down 6-10" really seems to stop them cold, although our loving fatass but very cute groundhog still manages to find gaps.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Paradoxish posted:

Did you just cover the gaps, or did you actually dig the fencing into the ground? If you're not getting something down at least 6" then rabbits and other burrowing animals will get in

What I've been doing for years is bending a piece of hardware cloth and attaching to to my fence. You have to have it high enough to not jump over if you have very open fencing obviously, but you also need another 12" or so that you only need to "bury" under the sod or with an inch or so of soil. They haven't figured that one out yet. They always start digging right up against the part of the fence they can see.

Of course you might be somewhere that digging 6" is easy enough that this doesn't matter. But in clay/shale/rock-land here this makes things significantly easier.

Nukelear v.2
Jun 25, 2004
My optional title text

Paradoxish posted:

Did you just cover the gaps, or did you actually dig the fencing into the ground? If you're not getting something down at least 6" then rabbits and other burrowing animals will get in. They can jump low fences, but it's pretty unlikely that's what's happening unless you're catching them in the act.

For what it's worth we have an insane number of rabbits here and I've never seen them in the garden or seen any evidence that they're getting in. Going down 6-10" really seems to stop them cold, although our loving fatass but very cute groundhog still manages to find gaps.

I took my hardware cloth about 2 inches into the ground and that's attached to the 6' yard fence and most importantly see no signs of burrowing.

Got hit again last night, wiped out the last green beans and ate through a beefy 1/2" tomato plant branch. I'm starting to think it could be rats or mice. This time there are some fresh signs of gnawing on the wooden legs of one of the beds and the bite marks are pretty small. We have squirrels as well, but I wouldn't expect them to eat garden plants would they?

Trying to physically block a garden from small pests seems impossible so I guess I'll need traps/poison.

Joburg
May 19, 2013


Fun Shoe
You’ve discovered one reason people have kept cats and dogs throughout history. A rat terrier would solve your problem.

Or a Great Dane - Poodle. After a lot of digging she caught and killed the mole.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Old-fashioned climbing roses on their own roots are nigh indestructible here. They get black spot, drop all their leaves, do not give a gently caress, grow more leaves, grow more flowers, keep plowing on until they become giant garden monsters. Lots of old roses come in both climbing and shrub varieties and have incredible fragrance They do take a year or three to get settled in and roses in general don’t like competition. They’re happiest with a few feet of mulch between them and their neighbors, and they’ll love about all the fertilizer you give them.

Hybrid tea roses are fickle little princesses that I can’t be bothered to grow. Knockouts are easy to grow but don’t smell, so what’s even the point. I’ve never had good luck with grafted roses of any sort, but I think that’s mostly to do with my very hot, wet, climate and mediocre drainage. With the graft and rootstock they have to be planted too deep to thrive.

David Austen roses are fantastic and combine some of the brighter colors of hybrid teas with the fuller growth habit, nice cabbagey flower shape, and much of the hardiness and vigor of old roses.
All of this is true.

Many/most modern plants are bred for commercial operations. Tomatoes need to be shippable, or they need to all ripen on the same day so you can get them to the factory, or they need to hold well until they get that shot of ethylene gas. Roses need to have straight long stems, graceful buds, and grow fast in a greenhouse.

Plants can come out of the commercial breeding process that are great in the home garden. For instance, Early Girl tomatoes are a champ for both flavor and health. However, many Hybrid Teas (what you think of as a rose, the kind you buy at (A) the grocery store and (B) the garden center) aren't bred to live in a garden, and it shows. Many of them need a pesticide regimen, a fungicide regimen, and a lot of fertilizer. Some of them, IIRC, are routinely disposed of in the greenhouse after a couple of growing seasons. The grower doesn't care about their long-term health, they care about those long straight stems. Along the same lines, many of them have no scent, and what's the point?

I grow old roses for two reasons: (1) I am sentimental about old things, and (2) they are tough as nails. If a rose was bred in 1850 and is still around today, it's because you can't kill it. There are organizations that specialize in going to old cemeteries, collecting cuttings of roses, growing them out, and trying to identify them. Those roses have gotten no care at all for decades.

You need to be careful with any rose to make sure what diseases it's susceptible to. In a wet climate, blackspot is going to make the plant drop its leaves. Yellow roses can be particularly prone to blackspot, and that does include some David Austins.

What are the caveats?
  • Many old roses bloom only once a summer. When you look at a listing, check "repeat"; if it says 0 or little, ask yourself if it's worth it to you to have a glorious rose for a few weeks a year.
  • The shape is different. Instead of the long, pointed tight buds you're used to, most old roses have fat, shorter buds, more like a hazelnut than a pecan. They open out into flat, blowsy blossoms.
  • Many varieties have comparatively short stems. You'll be picking a branch with multiple blossoms, not one long straight stem.
  • The color range is more limited. You won't see lavender roses, or many orange ones.

Do I have mail-order nurseries to recommend? Do groundhogs eat bulbs?
https://roguevalleyroses.com/
https://www.highcountryroses.com/
https://antiqueroseemporium.com/

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.
Asking here because I am terrible at identifying plant maladies. Does this look like tomato spotted wilt virus to y'all or something more fungal? I'm guessing the latter since my basil appears affected too, but it's not the pattern you see with Septoria or early blight.

My maters looked like champions before I put them out in the garden, but I haven't gotten too much growth since. One looks downright yellow and the rest have the troublesome spotting. Ironically, the one that I threw in the front yard because I didn't have the heart to compost it looks the healthiest.





More amusingly, I was fiddling with my drip irrigation to try and get better pressure to the emitters and found I was not the only one using it.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


:ssh: That bottom one is a basil.

The basil is definitely getting chomped on, and I thiiink so is the tomato.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

That basil sure looks like aphid or similar damage to me. Flip the leave over and look at the stems. Are there any bugs/eggs/whatever there?

Chad Sexington
May 26, 2005

I think he made a beautiful post and did a great job and he is good.
Basil is fairly bug-free, but it's a dense plant so I might have missed some. I had initially discounted aphids on the tomatoes because I didn't see the green clumps of stupid horrors on the underside of leaves that I fought last year. But going back and checking again, I did find and squish several dozen black winged aphids hanging on the stems. Guess I'll break the neem oil out.

I thought I was prepared this year because I've got basil and marigolds mixed in with the tomatoes to repel the aphids (allegedly) and the bed right next to this one has sunflowers, which I was hoping would be something of a honeypot.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Chad Sexington posted:

I thought I was prepared this year because I've got basil and marigolds mixed in with the tomatoes to repel the aphids (allegedly) and the bed right next to this one has sunflowers, which I was hoping would be something of a honeypot.

Integrated pest management. You do this stuff in layers. There is no silver bullet "one thing" that you can get away with all the time.

But it sounds like you're doing co-planting very well, so that's a great start.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Tomato damage might be spider mites too. Neem oil or your insecticide of choice should help with whatever it is.

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud

Progressive JPEG posted:

We put out some pindone poison pellets in bait stations here. Getting sick of rabbits chowing down on the native seedlings.

Two for one, you get to kill rabits, and then kill whatever eats the dead rabbit.

Progressive JPEG
Feb 19, 2003

Fozzy The Bear posted:

Two for one, you get to kill rabits, and then kill whatever eats the dead rabbit.

This is in NZ, there's nothing to eat the rabbit and that's sort of the problem. Maybe a similarly invasive possum or stoat would have one as a snack between killing all the birds? In that case it really would be win-win.

drk
Jan 16, 2005
My 10+ year old tree that I previously thought never set fruit appears to have this year



I'm now wondering if maybe this did happen in previous years and the fruit just didnt develop, or got eaten by birds. Guess I'll find out. But it does rule out polination issues, there are quite a few of these growing green buds where the flowers were.

Solkanar512
Dec 28, 2006

by the sex ghost
So I noticed that all of my gourd/mini pumpkin vines were turning yellowish and then I found this.



So this is slug/snail damage, right? No bugs/eggs/etc to be found, and it doesn’t seem to match pictures of vine borer damage. Anything I’m missing here?

Also, I assume that the vines don’t come back if the stem is damaged? Should I try to grab some cuttings and regrow in my hot bed? Is propagation by cutting a thing for these?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I'm now also seeing something about burying the vines in moist soil to encourage additional root growth? Lets see if I can find any nodes.

Solkanar512 fucked around with this message at 02:15 on May 12, 2022

stumblebum
May 8, 2022

no, what you want to do is get somebody mad enough to give you a red title you're proud of
are there any good resources/organizations that i can hook up with to learn about sustainable gardening and agriculture, particularly anything specific to the PNW/Oregon/Eugene? ideally not a group that preaches "sustainability" while using plastics and synthetic/imported fertilizers all over the place

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Solkanar512 posted:

So I noticed that all of my gourd/mini pumpkin vines were turning yellowish and then I found this.



So this is slug/snail damage, right? No bugs/eggs/etc to be found, and it doesn’t seem to match pictures of vine borer damage. Anything I’m missing here?

Also, I assume that the vines don’t come back if the stem is damaged? Should I try to grab some cuttings and regrow in my hot bed? Is propagation by cutting a thing for these?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I'm now also seeing something about burying the vines in moist soil to encourage additional root growth? Lets see if I can find any nodes.

No, those are stem borers. Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do once the stems are bored. See here for an overview. Basically, the larvae have eaten the center out of the stems and it's hard to restore the cambium enough to keep feeding the leaves and fruits. Curse and move on.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

stumblebum posted:

are there any good resources/organizations that i can hook up with to learn about sustainable gardening and agriculture, particularly anything specific to the PNW/Oregon/Eugene? ideally not a group that preaches "sustainability" while using plastics and synthetic/imported fertilizers all over the place

Your county ag extension.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Solkanar512 posted:

So I noticed that all of my gourd/mini pumpkin vines were turning yellowish and then I found this.



So this is slug/snail damage, right? No bugs/eggs/etc to be found, and it doesn’t seem to match pictures of vine borer damage. Anything I’m missing here?

Also, I assume that the vines don’t come back if the stem is damaged? Should I try to grab some cuttings and regrow in my hot bed? Is propagation by cutting a thing for these?

Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I'm now also seeing something about burying the vines in moist soil to encourage additional root growth? Lets see if I can find any nodes.
Sure looks like squash vine borers to me. They're awful and a pain in the rear end. The classic symptom is yellowing plants that wilt late in the day and recover a bit every morning. Look around the base of the stems and you'll probably see a little hole with some crumbly yellow/brown stuff coming out of it. You can bury the stems and they may recover, you can also slice the stem open with a razor blade and find and kill the little grub. Injecting the stems with Bt above where the grub is will also kill them. Spraying with Bt isn't very helpful since the grubs have to eat the Bt and they eat from the inside out.

You can absolutely take cuttings-squash vines root very readily.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

anyone have any good inexpensive landscape edging ideas? specifically to edge 18"x18" rose beds. i'd love raw steel but $$ so i'm probably gonna cut fence pickets into stakes and use that.


Update: cut a 1”x6”x6’ fence picket into 12” sections, dog-eared the top, and fastened it to a 2”x2” box frame. Total cost <$5 for 6’ linear feet :getin: They’re a bit tall, I think I’ll make them 8” long but I’m pleased on the whole

Fitzy Fitz
May 14, 2005




That's adorable

Solkanar512
Dec 28, 2006

by the sex ghost

Arsenic Lupin posted:

No, those are stem borers. Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do once the stems are bored. See here for an overview. Basically, the larvae have eaten the center out of the stems and it's hard to restore the cambium enough to keep feeding the leaves and fruits. Curse and move on.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Sure looks like squash vine borers to me. They're awful and a pain in the rear end. The classic symptom is yellowing plants that wilt late in the day and recover a bit every morning. Look around the base of the stems and you'll probably see a little hole with some crumbly yellow/brown stuff coming out of it. You can bury the stems and they may recover, you can also slice the stem open with a razor blade and find and kill the little grub. Injecting the stems with Bt above where the grub is will also kill them. Spraying with Bt isn't very helpful since the grubs have to eat the Bt and they eat from the inside out.

You can absolutely take cuttings-squash vines root very readily.

Thanks for the corrections, all the pictures I saw online had these weird orange masses and whatnot. I took a bunch of cuttings, placed them in a tray full of well watered soil, put a humidity cover over that and slipped that back in the hotbed. I may get some more seeds going as well.

quote:

Plant vine crops that are usually not attacked by squash vine borers, such as butternut squash, cucumbers, melons and watermelons.

Yeah, this explains why I've never seen this issue before. Ugh.

Corla Plankun
May 8, 2007

improve the lives of everyone
I'm growing Tatume and Trombonccino squash this year because I've read that they're resistant to Squash Vine Borers (which are a huge problem in TX). They seem to be doing fine so far but usually I get one squash before the plants succumb and I haven't gotten any fruit yet.

niethan
Nov 22, 2005

Don't be scared, homie!

Corla Plankun posted:

I'm growing Tatume and Trombonccino squash this year because I've read that they're resistant to Squash Vine Borers (which are a huge problem in TX). They seem to be doing fine so far but usually I get one squash before the plants succumb and I haven't gotten any fruit yet.

Tromboncini are so good. They're like zucchinis better cousin. The seeds are all in the tip so you get that really good and firm homogenous fruit body. It's the best.

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mischief
Jun 3, 2003

Tatume is a loving stud. I normally keep a corner of the plot just for them.

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