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I am so happy I was able to get this and the person at the store nor they were talking about and there’s also a guy with his dad buying a ton of film into who was able to help out with some questions I had too. It’s also nice that both he and the store guy totally understood why I’d like Rosen, but I have children, and they all immediately went like ah yeah I see. Now to build it correctly. 
Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 22:45 on May 14, 2022 |
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May 14, 2022 21:40
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Is this a normal thing or a repack and return and exchange thing? One pin isn’t present. Edit: noticed this on another one too. I guess it’s a standard thing? 
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May 14, 2022 23:20
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Vaporware posted:BTW got a better answer on this, I have been running at a Live Z level around -1.5 to -1.75. That's on the ragged edge of the superPinda's operational measurement range. I backed it off the bed to about 1.5 mm, reset the live Z and now it's beautifully smooth again on the first layer. This was also why I could never properly dial in my smooth sheet, because it's 0.3 mm thicker than satin, and I stupidly assumed I should start at the same Z level as the satin. Thanks for mentioning this, I've been having first layer issues and I'm running a pretty sizable offset. This gives me a good starting point.
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May 14, 2022 23:34
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Is this a normal thing or a repack and return and exchange thing? One pin isn’t present. I don't know about that one specifically, but it's pretty common to see connectors that deliberately have one pin blocked off like that so that you can't insert them backwards.
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May 15, 2022 00:23
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Sagebrush posted:I don't know about that one specifically, but it's pretty common to see connectors that deliberately have one pin blocked off like that so that you can't insert them backwards. Awesome that would explain it. I now have it all set up just gonna wait till later this evening to level and then do a test.
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May 15, 2022 00:40
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TerminalSaint posted:Thanks for mentioning this, I've been having first layer issues and I'm running a pretty sizable offset. This gives me a good starting point. Sure, I hesitated to  because I wasn't sure it was the fix. but I've been running first layers without zits or skipping all day now. The inconsistent first layers when the superPinda was too low were driving me nuts. it would be fine one day then too high the next and too low the next.And the bonus of being able to use the smooth sheet might help with these ABS prints that warp up off the satin at the corners. My only other concern was when I checked my bed varience it was 0.257 mm so it's not great but I don't care enough to do the spacer to locknut swap and get it perfectly flat. I unloaded all the heatbed screws and retorqued them, but no change. Maybe I'll mess with it in another 6 mo.
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May 15, 2022 01:41
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Commodore_64 posted:YAHOO!  I really like that if you have a thermal runaway it'll melt the cooling loop above the heating element, that's smart design.Today I found a quick project, inspired by a comment on discord about 3D printing and unnecessary plastic in general.  I responded with  but then decided to give it a little effort. (Edit: Non-gif version https://imgur.com/a/MxDq1c4)  It's on my shelf with other prints now, of course RabbitWizard fucked around with this message at 18:21 on May 15, 2022 |
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May 15, 2022 01:42
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Marshal Prolapse posted:I am so happy ... Ooh, it's black and red like KITT!
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May 15, 2022 14:36
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RabbitWizard posted:
I like the joke and the level of effort, but the timing on the punchline is just off. That last frame where the product is in the trash (?) needs to be much longer. It's hard to tell exactly what's going on, and I've watched through it a few times.
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May 15, 2022 17:51
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5TonsOfFlax posted:I like the joke and the level of effort, but the timing on the punchline is just off. That last frame where the product is in the trash (?) needs to be much longer. It's hard to tell exactly what's going on, and I've watched through it a few times.  Single Images: https://imgur.com/a/MxDq1c4
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May 15, 2022 18:20
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Acid Reflux posted:I'm going to buck the trend and recommend shelling out a few extra bucks for silicone spacers, because they are as much (or even more) of an improvement over the yellow springs as the yellow ones are over the stock springs. Is there a recommended amazon or aliexpress link for these, or are they all about the same
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May 15, 2022 19:55
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When I started printing I constantly had to re-level because gravitational waves were enough to turn the knobs. I re-installed my bed springs 2 times and I don't need to level any more, except for different nozzles. What I did was just to compress the springs as much as possible. Just turn all the knobs until they don't move any more. Move the z-stop (yes, the whole thing) until the nozzle is barely above the bed after homing. Within 1-2 turns the bed should be high enough to print. Sure, silicone will probably give the same effect of un-moving knobs and they are cheap, I just don't consider them a must have.
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May 15, 2022 20:27
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RabbitWizard posted:
 On that note what does everyone do with their plastic waste? I keep a cardboard box under my desk that I toss my purge lines and failed prints into. I figure it will fill up in 5 years and I'll pitch in the garbage.
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May 15, 2022 21:46
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Hadlock posted:Is there a recommended amazon or aliexpress link for these, or are they all about the same https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MKQGQJW/ RabbitWizard posted:When I started printing I constantly had to re-level because gravitational waves were enough to turn the knobs. I re-installed my bed springs 2 times and I don't need to level any more, except for different nozzles. What I did was just to compress the springs as much as possible. Just turn all the knobs until they don't move any more. Move the z-stop (yes, the whole thing) until the nozzle is barely above the bed after homing. Within 1-2 turns the bed should be high enough to print. I also agree with this completely, but unfortunately it's not physically possible on at least two of mine. Probably not an issue with any of the the Ender series, but my bigger machines' X/Z carriages bottom out against the frame well above the height that the bed can be fully tightened down to. It's actually pretty annoying, and someday I'm going to mod the Y carriages to bring the bed up higher. Someday.
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May 15, 2022 21:50
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RabbitWizard posted:When I started printing I constantly had to re-level because gravitational waves were enough to turn the knobs. I re-installed my bed springs 2 times and I don't need to level any more, except for different nozzles. What I did was just to compress the springs as much as possible. Just turn all the knobs until they don't move any more. Move the z-stop (yes, the whole thing) until the nozzle is barely above the bed after homing. Within 1-2 turns the bed should be high enough to print. The silicone spacers are still springs and act the same way. If the knobs are barely turned the bed will still shift as vibrations and such work them loose and the silicone goes back to its original shape. I’m a bit annoyed they haven’t been a magical bullet but oh well.
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May 15, 2022 21:52
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Metal springs lose their shape over time. You'll see C4 (1980s) corvettes running fiberglass springs because the metal leaf springs on the rear end (yes that model had leaf springs, but transverse, unlike a truck) cause it to sink down over time. I'm sure silicone degrades over time but certainly takes a lot longer compared to springs who have paper clips as a distant cousin
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May 15, 2022 21:59
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On my sunlu s8, the bed support wasn’t true enough for spacers, so I use 2 nuts on each corner, and tighten them against each other. After an evening dialing in, I haven’t had to tweak it in months.
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May 15, 2022 22:00
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I had a thought of, "Gee, maybe I should replace the 60mm fans that cool my controller area. They are a bit whiny." I can't find a Sunon MagLev or Delta 24v fan anywhere! The supply chain crisis works in mysterious ways!
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May 15, 2022 22:05
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Marshal Prolapse posted:So if you’re fine with good, but not amazing models, is PLA fine? Honestly if it doesn’t have godawful layer lines, I’m okay with it as it removes many safety issues with Resin. FDM printers have godawful layer lines compared to resin. They just do. This can be largely mitigated by getting your printer tuned well, and printing in smaller layers. It will look fine at arms length. I recommend using Krylon ultra flat camouflage primer. It does a fantastic job of filling in the lines without obscuring detail. It’s more expensive than regular off the shelf primer, but comparable to good hobby primer, and does a better job.
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May 15, 2022 23:58
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Krylon Camo is amazing stuff.
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May 16, 2022 00:08
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You can also get XTC-3D and completely ignore the instructions saying "multiple, thin layers" and goop on heavy fat layers so it wads up and drips down your print like a cumshot. That's an option, too.
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May 16, 2022 00:46
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Combat Pretzel posted:Bleaching polymers what? New thread title
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May 16, 2022 02:48
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Doctor Zero posted:FDM printers have godawful layer lines compared to resin. They just do. Thanks! I have to say I thought the lines weren’t too bad on my first print after a small amount of sanding and using a mould remover to clean up junk. Granted I used the superior profile and this time for the terrain I’m trying the standard one. But I appreciate the recommendation as I’ve been wondering what should I prime these with, because I don’t want to use too dark a color, because I want to be able to use the army painter speed paints. Then again it’s probably just prime in two colors. Regardless I ordered a can of the spray you recommended since I had like $12 an Amazon credit so it came to only six bucks.  That said I love this, I’m already printing scenery, then this.  This hobby is going to rule. Never thought I’d be paying for models I’d have to print myself, but the range that some places have and the quality is just insane.https://youtu.be/VfK6tkM3VxA Oh what are the dangers, if any, of leaving your machine running printing constantly? Is there any mitigation I can do. I only ask, because I have some files which say they’ll take a day or so to print. Which is fine because this thing is really not loud at all, sounds like a normal fan you might find it someone’s desk. I’m loving my Ender 2 Pro. The set up was really easy and stuff I was concerned about was a breeze. Honestly the hardest tasks were bed leveling and the SD card reader is a bit odd. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 03:09 on May 16, 2022 |
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May 16, 2022 03:00
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Commodore_64 posted:YAHOO! It's unnecessary printer mod day! After having my CR10 's bowden tube get cooked and shrank again, I angrily tore the hotend off and started a mod Wait, what, how does this work. Does this mean you can just have an air compressor out in your garage, and pump compressed air to the printer, so long as you have a 50' pneumatic hose?
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May 16, 2022 03:54
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Hadlock posted:Wait, what, how does this work. Does this mean you can just have an air compressor out in your garage, and pump compressed air to the printer, so long as you have a 50' pneumatic hose? Yeah pmuch. I use a little 24V aquarium pump looking thing. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001870469069.html The upside is its more of a positive displacement pump running all of its volume out to the part rather than compressing it and storing it in a tank, so the air coming out is not hot. This might not be the most technically accurate way of describing it, but it works. I use a mosfet board to take the cooling fan output and use it to PWM the big goofy pump. It's not silent, but it works better than the stock Creality blower. Not going to say it's perfect, and the only bridging I've used it with is big fat ones out of a 1mm nozzle which are understandably hard to cool off so the performance was so so.
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May 16, 2022 04:05
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Commodore_64 posted:running all of its volume out to the part rather than compressing it and storing it in a tank, so the air coming out is not hot. Compressed air expands leaves the hose, absorbing energy from the environment around it 
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May 16, 2022 05:37
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Thanks! I have to say I thought the lines weren’t too bad on my first print after a small amount of sanding and using a mould remover to clean up junk. Granted I used the superior profile and this time for the terrain I’m trying the standard one. But I appreciate the recommendation as I’ve been wondering what should I prime these with, because I don’t want to use too dark a color, because I want to be able to use the army painter speed paints. Then again it’s probably just prime in two colors. Regardless I ordered a can of the spray you recommended since I had like $12 an Amazon credit so it came to only six bucks. I know you linked him earlier, but Tom is the best source I've seen for settings getting FDM figures to print well. Did you see this video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iEdCTuK7ZW0
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May 16, 2022 15:57
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Interesting news in my email just now from Printed Solid. I hope this is a good move, they've already been working together for a pretty long time. https://www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/prusa-research-acquires-printed-solid-inc
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May 16, 2022 20:14
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Acid Reflux posted:Interesting news in my email just now from Printed Solid. I hope this is a good move, they've already been working together for a pretty long time. That seems promising. I'm in Canada but if there's a Prusa factory in the states making kits + pre-assembled units, that seems like a boon for all of NA.
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May 16, 2022 20:57
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What should I be looking at if my Ender 3 just... doesn't start printing? It's been pretty tempremental of late - I replaced the thermistor and the thermal runaway errors on ABS seem to have stopped, but now I think my z-offset needs resetting as the brims I get are basically outlines (which do not want to scrub off with isopropyl + paper towel) on the glass bed. I'll get to that eventually, but seem to be having other issues I think I ought to address first. I switched back to PLA after having an ABS print just seemingly lock the nozzle in place a few mm's above the bed and fart out filament. I got one small PLA print issue-free (aside from another ghost brim), then when I went to print another copy of the same thing, the printer just... sits there, and doesn't warm either the bed or nozzle.
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May 16, 2022 21:27
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Very dumb question but does the glue stick need to be wet still when the printer prints on top of it
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May 16, 2022 21:48
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Acid Reflux posted:Interesting news in my email just now from Printed Solid. I hope this is a good move, they've already been working together for a pretty long time. Huh I like them because they are the next state over. I wonder how this affects the in house filament they have which I meant to buy and try out
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May 16, 2022 21:50
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Hadlock posted:Very dumb question but does the glue stick need to be wet still when the printer prints on top of it Nope, in my experience dry works better.
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May 16, 2022 21:54
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Their blog indicates that they’re keeping up with their in house filaments so it seems like you’re good to go there.
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May 16, 2022 21:54
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Ethics_Gradient posted:What should I be looking at if my Ender 3 just... doesn't start printing? Sounds like it's multimeter time.
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May 16, 2022 23:01
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I don't do resin printing, but do you think I'm right to tell my friend not to spend 10k on one of these for live prototyping of rings? https://www.b9c.com/products/b9-core-series It seems to me like he could probably export his models and print them on a normal resin printer but maybe there is something I am missing.
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May 16, 2022 23:06
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Tell your friend to get a Form 3 complete station or Form 3L base model for that kind of cash. DLP printers won’t do true vectors like the true SLA will and you can get clean burning ashless resin from Formlabs for exactly this purpose. If they want, they can even model in their vents and sprues at printing time so you can just get your plaster or sand immediately around it. E: vectors is simplifying things a little because you’re using a mesh model with Preform anyway, but the motion system for SLA gives you file-as-uploaded fidelity without aliasing or the same kind of voxel structure as DLP NewFatMike fucked around with this message at 23:20 on May 16, 2022 |
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May 16, 2022 23:13
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Thanks! His gemcutting business has been taking off and he's hoping to get into jewelry making (but he'd having casting done by a third party rather than doing it himself, he just needs physical prototypes to prototype and/or impress customers with). I suspect even a cheap resin printer would work for that but I'm not sure. He's apparently been told that calibration and/or alignment are a timesink on other printers. That seemed questionable to me.
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May 16, 2022 23:28
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How worried should I be about bubbles in my resin printer screen protector? Are they like 100% fatal guaranteed? Pretty sure it's a few pieces of dust under there but I've done this same process with phone screen protectors and I don't have the level 4 biohazard facility it apparently takes to never have a single bubble or speck of dust across the entire piece.
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May 16, 2022 23:49
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Ethics_Gradient posted:What should I be looking at if my Ender 3 just... doesn't start printing? What are the files being read from? The SD card that came with it? Sometimes those can start to crap out, that's at least a possible reason it stopped printing. ABS is definitely a lot more temperamental than PLA, I print in an enclosure and if it's ever a smaller model I try to print multiple of them at once. You end up with a lot of melted and skewed details otherwise, as using any cooling fan will cause it to warp instantly. Sometimes you need different z-offsets depending on the material. PETG for example you need to back off a tiny bit in comparison to PLA. I'd say I usually use my PETG z offset when printing ABS, but I'll often run first layer calibration to see what the line squish looks like.
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May 17, 2022 00:17
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