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What would you recommend if I can spend a bit more? The bylaw'd frost line here is six feet. Bad winters will go to 8, apparently.
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Feb 17, 2022 03:45
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Any tips/thoughts on removing rubber mulch? Got about a 20’x20’x3”(ish) square of it, former owners had a playset there, and I’d like to shovel it out and put more grass in. I’m pretty sure I’ll have to drive it up to the dump myself, but what kind of containers can I use that won’t cost an arm and a leg? Kicker is I’ve got to them them in and out of my car (Chevy volt) without them breaking.
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Feb 17, 2022 04:47
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unlimited shrimp posted:What would you recommend if I can spend a bit more? My preference would be wood posts. There are some pretty slick 4x4, 6x6 and 8x8 lamibeams that are pressure treated on the bottom only. They are the kind of thing you find at a yard that sells pole barn supplies and should have sufficient pressure treated length for the local frost line where you're buying them. You also might consider getting someone out there to put in round posts. They are basically made to work with a skid steer attachment that pounds them into the ground. Super easy and shouldn't be too much in labor. Added bonus of not disturbing the soil so they are real strong right from the beginning. They have smaller diameter ones with pegs to run horizontally off of your corners to the next closest posts on either side to take care of the problem where your corner posts will sag inwards as you tension the fence unless you brace them or concrete them in.
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Feb 17, 2022 04:53
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blugu64 posted:Any tips/thoughts on removing rubber mulch? If it's actually 20'x20' at 3" deep that's almost four cubic yards, which will be a lot of containers and a lot of trips with a small car and I can't imagine trying to get it into reasonable containers and dump it is going to make that more fun. If you want to do it yourself I'd probably rent a truck at the local Home Depot or wherever instead of spending the money on stuff to transport it in. Motronic posted:My preference would be wood posts. There are some pretty slick 4x4, 6x6 and 8x8 lamibeams that are pressure treated on the bottom only. They are the kind of thing you find at a yard that sells pole barn supplies and should have sufficient pressure treated length for the local frost line where you're buying them. If you have trees around you can also attach the plastic mesh type of deer fencing to a line strung between them which can save some on posts. If you need posts for the whole thing it's probably worth paying someone to drive them IMO. Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Feb 17, 2022 |
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Feb 17, 2022 14:40
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Literally a day before the ground froze and the snow started we had a new well put in and a giant trench dug from it to my house. I've had beautiful white snow to look at it, but now it's melting and I am reminded of this... I've got ruts, a spot where the trench has settled, drill mud, and it's almost all clay. What's a good plan of attack? Level->topsoil->grass seed-> pray ? Is there anything I can do to increase my chance of success?
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Mar 20, 2022 00:13
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If a t-post is listed online as "8 ft" is that the above-ground height or the total length of the post? \/ Thanks! unlimited shrimp fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Mar 21, 2022 |
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Mar 21, 2022 05:20
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unlimited shrimp posted:If a t-post is listed online as "8 ft" is that the above-ground height or the total length of the post? Total length
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Mar 21, 2022 13:32
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It's that time of year. Just barely caught this Japanese Maple in dormancy - and it's going up to 70 tomorrow and for a few days after so this was my absolute last chance for the season. I put my "ripping out crappy commercial nursery stock" on hold to get this done. The poor thing is being shaded out by a much larger Japanese Maple and for the life of me I can't figure out what they were thinking when putting this thing here, in the shadiest place possible right up against the house: It's about 2" caliper 6" up the trunk, so the interwebs and ag extension tells me I need a 24" root ball. That's too big for the baby excavator (13" bucket) so I gotta do this the hard way.  After trenching I was about to get the edging spade in all around the root ball at a downward angle and then slide under it with the machine and "pop" it out a bit.  Bagged and dragged to the tractor:  Good scoop of compost in the hole, leveled out, edged and covered with leaf mould, trimmed back by 25%:  Need to find some stakes and wire to give it some help standing up in high winds for the next couple of years. It was not in great shape but did leaf out last year, so I hope it was strong enough to take the transplant.
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Apr 11, 2022 23:08
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That one has a lovely graceful shape; well worth saving.
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Apr 11, 2022 23:37
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Arsenic Lupin posted:That one has a lovely graceful shape; well worth saving. I just hope I saved it. I lost the bottom two, but cut them back far enough out that they may sprout again. The trimming was......difficult, because the two stems that make it looks so nice are really not even at all due to varying light levels. I went heavy on the hardier side but not as heavy as I'd like to. I think this is a 2-3 year fix to even them out if it takes. Weaker side is towards more hours of sun. So that might help.
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Apr 11, 2022 23:48
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Motronic posted:Need to find some stakes and wire to give it some help standing up in high winds for the next couple of years. It was not in great shape but did leaf out last year, so I hope it was strong enough to take the transplant. I reckon you'll probably be fine. Getting out of the shade will probably do it more good than the damage you did to the roots and I've had decent results moving trees about that size.
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Apr 12, 2022 00:15
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Goons, please give me some xeriscaping ideas. Sod simply won't take and I don't want to waste water trying again. What you see now is mostly weeds. Where I live, most people have either a backyard or a pool (ours has the latter for both the kiddo as well as exercise/health reasons for me), so I was hoping for something to contrast with the concrete/pool decking. The fence was replaced after a hurricane last year and I'm having it painted/sealed in a few weeks.   
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Apr 16, 2022 15:44
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Where do you live? (like, not your address, but "LA area" or whatever. If you prefer, your USDA zone. We can't recommend plants unless we know whether they'll thrive. Do you want the kids to be able to play on the area that's currently grass? That limits your options.
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Apr 16, 2022 16:51
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Where do you live? (like, not your address, but "LA area" or whatever. If you prefer, your USDA zone. We can't recommend plants unless we know whether they'll thrive. South Texas, so 9b. The kid doesn't play on the grass, so that's not something I'm factoring in.
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Apr 16, 2022 16:54
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The first thing you need to do is figure out what that soil's like. Does it drain well, is it clay, something else? The first two of the simple tests here will tell you a lot. I'm not impressed by the worm test. If it drains well, xeriscaping is easier. The second is to figure out how much sunlight your yard gets. A lot of places recommend checking each spot you want to garden once an hour for an entire day, but that sounds too much like work to me. Figure out which direction your yard faces overall, and notice which parts of the yard are shaded by trees, fences, or by the house's shadow. Many of these will qualify as "part-sun", which means 4-6 hours of direct sun per day. Some of them may qualify as "full shade", which is <4 hours of direct sun. Places with no shade are "full-sun". The difference between "full sun", "part sun", and "full shade" determines which plants you can get. Here are some pretty awesome-looking plants to use as anchors (obviously the thorny ones are Right Out.) Scroll through Texas A&M's plant lists to see if anything pops out at you. https://www.seedsource.com specializes in Texas-native seeds; many places that sell you "wildflower mixes" or "meadow mixes" include a lot of plants that are cheap but not native and not necessarily suited to your particular climate. They get great reviews on Dave's Garden. Do you get no rain in the summer, or only intermittent rainstorms? If you get some rain, you're in great shape, because there are a lot of plants that can take a few weeks between rainstorms, fewer that can take an entire dry summer. If you want to do all the planning yourself, make a casual map of the spaces you want to plant things. You don't have to do it to scale, but you certainly can. Decide whether you want the space completely covered in plants, or whether you want a sand or gravel base dotted with plants. Draw circles on the space the size of the plants you like (this will be in the seed or catalog listing). Does all of this sound like too much to do in one spring? It does to me. I would consider killing the existing grass with Roundup or an equivalent weedkiller, wait a couple of weeks, hiring somebody to till/dig up the dead grass (making sure to avoid any sprinklers, if you have them). Then sprinkle a good meadow mix from Seedsource or another vendor. Tuck in whatever larger plants you've fallen in love with. Follow the instructions on the mix, but in general you'll need to water for a few weeks to get the seedlings started on their way. Spend the summer watching what grows and what doesn't, and planning what plants you'd love to have. Google "native nurseries" near you. If they're allowing visitors, the staff will be happy to help you figure out what to do next. Many of them will offer landscaping services, or have one to recommend. e: Straightforward option: clear the land as described above, then plant liriope (aka lilyturf). It's pretty, it's tough, and it forms a neutral background to the rest of the yard. Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Apr 16, 2022 |
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Apr 16, 2022 17:59
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Motronic posted:I just hope I saved it. I lost the bottom two, but cut them back far enough out that they may sprout again. The trimming was......difficult, because the two stems that make it looks so nice are really not even at all due to varying light levels. I went heavy on the hardier side but not as heavy as I'd like to. I think this is a 2-3 year fix to even them out if it takes. Great save! I didn't see it mentioned here so you might already have done so but right now is a great time to add some slow acting fertilizer (Treetone or similar) to help get things going. In my experience you can also hit it a second time at the start of summer as well.
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Apr 21, 2022 22:04
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Oh ho, there is a landscraping thread after all. Cross posting from the Home Zone since I didn't get any responses and I am hoping to buy something to use this weekend: There is a vine that has basically taken over my yard. I think it's some kind of pipevine, though it has never actually flowered. I've done my best the last two years to exterminate it as much as possible (mostly by ripping it out), but the neighbors on all sides of me seem to not care that it is actively strangling their trees to death, so I'm probably going to be battling it forever. This year I want to be a bit more tactical. One side of my yard has a double fence line. Chain link with about a 12" gap and then a wooden fence. The vine loves to grow in this space and it is a bitch to remove it. I don't want anything to grow in this space at all, ever. I've considered removing the chain link fence just so I can dig out this area to make life easier, but that is going to be a huge project. I'd instead like to dump some kind of chemical here that will kill things. What is going to be the least environmentally terrible thing to use for that? As of right now, the vine hasn't sprouted up in the space yet, so I think I'm looking for a pre-emergent? An added challenge is there is a lot of plant debris within this 12" space that I can't really remove, so anything I dump on top of this isn't really hitting the ground. My neighbor with the wooden fence has a small child and a dog so ideally whatever I put here won't wash into their yard and give them cancer, or something. Tbqh for a while I was considering literally salting the earth, but I guess that's actually worse than glyphosate.
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Apr 22, 2022 13:05
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Sirotan posted:Oh ho, there is a landscraping thread after all. Cross posting from the Home Zone since I didn't get any responses and I am hoping to buy something to use this weekend: At work we have a quarter mile of chain link fence that gets vines and glossy buckthorn growing into it. We sprayed with glyphosphate but it was always a pain in the rear end and required regular spraying. Eventually we called a place the specializes in spraying lawns, they came by with two dudes in white suits, a tanker truck, and sprayed. Within a week all the vines turned brown and died, this stripe of deadness lasted for about two years. They claimed once it was sprayed and dried it was no longer harmful. I don't know what it was they used, but it worked really well.
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Apr 22, 2022 14:07
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Yooper posted:At work we have a quarter mile of chain link fence that gets vines and glossy buckthorn growing into it. We sprayed with glyphosphate but it was always a pain in the rear end and required regular spraying. Eventually we called a place the specializes in spraying lawns, they came by with two dudes in white suits, a tanker truck, and sprayed. Within a week all the vines turned brown and died, this stripe of deadness lasted for about two years. They claimed once it was sprayed and dried it was no longer harmful. I don't know what it was they used, but it worked really well. Almost certainly Gramoxone/Paraquat. And you need to be a licensed applicator to buy it.
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Apr 22, 2022 14:21
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Hmm. I guess I hadn't really considered getting one of those TruGreen type places to come by. It isn't a very big area (40' stretch, maybe), but I'd pay somebody a couple hundred bucks if they could well and truly murder the thing for a couple years.
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Apr 22, 2022 14:31
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I have a couple questions that seem more appropriate here than over in the horticulture thread because they're about chemicals and vegetation containment: 1) Our Stella cherry tree has a case of leaf spot. Fortunately, it seems to be on the mild side because it doesn't start killing leaves until pretty late in the season and it hasn't affected cherry production (which gets wiped out by birds and squirrels instead). So far we've just been removing diseased leaves as we see them and picking up and disposing of all fallen leaves. I think this is at least keeping it from getting worse..? Too early to tell how well we did last fall. However, this tree grows super fast and will soon be too big and tall for grabbing each and every bad leaf. I have read some ag extension articles and the fungicides they recommend include alternating applications of captan and myclobutanil (to prevent resistance). And if you want to stay organic, that copper will probably help. The best we found at Home Depot was the copper stuff, so we'll be starting with that. As for the other stuff, is it appropriate/obtainable for residential use by a non-professional? Other than some sketchy Amazon listings that I absolutely do not trust, the places where it's available seem like professional supply sites. Captan seems more obtainable out of the two. Myclobutanil seems like it's some serious poo poo, seeing that it's banned in several states (not PA though  ). I'd be fine with hiring someone if necessary. I just want to eradicate the leaf spot before the tree gets too big and it's more difficult to treat.  2) Any suggestions for/experiences with Siberian squill containment? It was here when we bought the house, mostly in the back flowerbed and a corner of the lawn, but in the last couple years it's gotten loving everywhere. We think what happened is that a couple springs ago we mowed it after the seed pods had opened and spewed seeds in all directions. Basically, I want to keep it more or less confined to the back lawn and out of the flowerbeds. I am not interested in eradication because it is just too dang pretty (also probably impossible without also killing a bunch of stuff I don't want to kill):  Every March, the lawn turns into a carpet of little blue flowers and it brings me immense joy. I've also had like four different neighbors independently tell me how much they enjoy our lawn and how beautiful it is when the squill is in bloom, including one elderly neighbor who just the other day told me she'd sit and spend time just looking at it every day it was in bloom.  I know it's regarded as a pest in some areas and I certainly see why, and part of why I want to contain it (and I absolutely would not have introduced it if it wasn't already here):  There's supposed to be an edge to the lawn a bit past the mulch around the dogwoods, but the squill has infiltrated that whole side bed (but has not yet jumped [the mangled remnants of] the fence) and is even encroaching into the mulch. I do not want the squill in this area. As you can see, we've just mowed/whacked it, and this time we managed to do it before it's seeded out, so hopefully that'll help mitigate further propagation. (There are imminent plans to deal with that woodpile so I'll be able to get to the squill in it soon). To non-chemically get rid of the squill in areas where I don't want it, would it be sufficient to bury it under a bunch of topsoil and layer of mulch or is manual removal also in order? If I pile in a bunch of topsoil, I'd probably need to replant most if not all the perennials, but I'd be fine with that because they'd probably be much happier in the long run - that part of the yard is so full of roots that you need a mattock to dig in it and it feels like hacking through a fishing net. And I suppose I could take out the English ivy while I'm at it (I would like to eradicate this, but that might be futile because it's also in the neighbor's yard and it's a rental so probably not going to get any cooperation from them).
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Apr 25, 2022 22:43
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Queen Victorian posted:
What general area and USDA zone do you live in? I'm in PNW/8b and I've wanted my front yard to look like that every spring and I'd love some tips on getting Squill to spread a bit more. I know if my area it's not invasive, just to be clear.
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Apr 25, 2022 23:05
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Solkanar512 posted:What general area and USDA zone do you live in? I'm in PNW/8b and I've wanted my front yard to look like that every spring and I'd love some tips on getting Squill to spread a bit more. I know if my area it's not invasive, just to be clear. I'm in SW PA/6b. From what I've read, it's quite hardy (up to zone 2 or something crazy), drought tolerant, and not picky about soil or anything. It does need a period of cold in order to bloom, but not sure how cold. That'd be something to get the specifics on - if your area gets cold enough for it. If you want a carpet of flowers, probably easier to start from seed (because planting a buttload of tiny little bulbs does not seem like a good time). Now I'm wondering if we mowed to early... I'm seeing a recommendation to wait six weeks until after they've finishing blooming to mow down, but we've only waited like two . But that long after they bloom the leaves die and flop over and it's a massive pain in the rear end AND by that time they've dropped more seeds everywhere. Also they seem to be indestructible so I'm not terribly worried, but I guess we'll know next spring.
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Apr 26, 2022 00:00
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Queen Victorian posted:I'm in SW PA/6b. From what I've read, it's quite hardy (up to zone 2 or something crazy), drought tolerant, and not picky about soil or anything. It does need a period of cold in order to bloom, but not sure how cold. That'd be something to get the specifics on - if your area gets cold enough for it. I wonder if my lawn is too thick and is inhibiting the spread of the squill. Does the squill need a long period of time under a certain temp, or just a hard chill in general?
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Apr 26, 2022 01:35
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Queen Victorian posted:1) Our Stella cherry tree has a case of leaf spot. Fortunately, it seems to be on the mild side because it doesn't start killing leaves until pretty late in the season and it hasn't affected cherry production (which gets wiped out by birds and squirrels instead). So far we've just been removing diseased leaves as we see them and picking up and disposing of all fallen leaves. I think this is at least keeping it from getting worse..? Too early to tell how well we did last fall. However, this tree grows super fast and will soon be too big and tall for grabbing each and every bad leaf. Obtainable, yes. From reliable sources. This is who I generally use: https://www.domyown.com/bonide-fruit-tree-spray-concentrate-p-1529.html https://www.domyown.com/eagle-20ew-specialty-fungicide-p-1359.html Neither fungicide you're asking about is restricted use (read: really dangerous). The reason they aren't allowed in certain states is because they will act on beneficial organisms in those states to an extent their states DEP believes to be harmful at this point. Now, on to pro or DIY: you really need more than just the fungicide to do these applications. You're going to need not only application equipment, which at this point sounds like a 3 gallon backpack sprayer, but you're going to need the right stuff to store and mix these things. For example, I'd want to add a spreader/sticker for an application like that (https://www.domyown.com/hiyield-spreader-sticker-p-1898.html). I'd want a decent sprayer (https://www.domyown.com/chapin-pro-series-gallon-backpack-61800-p-696.html) that I could later put an extension wand on when the tree got too big. I'd want a dedicated thing to measure amounts that I'm mixing (https://www.domyown.com/measuring-cup-for-liquids-p-1968.html). And a good set of chemical gloves. Depending on the height I'd want a full tyvec suit. Regardless of height I'd want safety glasses and an N95. Baseball hat helps too. Sounds like your tree is well within the not needing a full suit. So you've got this initial investment, you need to make sure that you get this stuff applied on the right schedule (and a calm day), and you need to make sure you are cleaning your equipment and preparing it for winter (i.e. don't leave any water in the pump or sprayer hose/handle). You do need to learn a bit about how to mix this stuff, but that's easy research on the ag extension. So yes, totally doable. I have no idea what a service like this would cost, but I'd bet it's not cheap even if it's just one tree due to trip charges. I'd rather be doing it myself, but I've got the space and I'm all set up for this already. What you'd need to do this may be useful to you for other things in your yard or could be shared with neighbors making things even easier to justify. But that's the short description of what I can think of that you'd be in for if you want to DIY this. Also note, with the size of the tree you're talking about, it may be easy/economical to find premix (with spread/sticker included) versions on that site that may even be hose spreaders where you just put the garden hose on it and go. I don't think those are the most effective application and they definitely are not the most cost effective either, but it's possibly an option. Read the whole label for what it's meant for. Having the right active ingredient is not enough - a lot of the hose end drenchers are intended for root drenching and not leaf application. Motronic fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Apr 26, 2022 |
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Apr 26, 2022 14:53
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Wow, this is incredibly helpful, thank you! To be honest I have not previously dealt with applying chemicals that didn't come in a ready-to-use spray bottle (like, not even lawn chemicals, since our lawn stays lush and green on its own). There's definitely some up-front cost for the equipment, but it's no doubt vastly cheaper than hiring a pro to come out multiple times for one small tree. Besides, I'm planning on planting a plum tree in the backyard which is susceptible to similar afflictions, and maybe an apple tree, and I can bring it to the summer house, where some new birches my dad planted are infested with Japanese beetles and will probably need something stronger than whatever spray bottle stuff we were spraying last summer that didn't seem to do much (will have to check about pesticide rules so close to the water though). And my rose bush had something last summer, so I'll look into treating that. Also there are a crapton of flowering trees in my neighborhood, mostly cherries and crabapples, so I'd be more than happy to put the word out to neighbors in case anyone needs to treat their trees for something. I'll place an order in the coming days. And here's a pic of the tree as of a week and a half ago:  It's probably like 10' or so and will put on at least 2' of height this summer. It was a 6' twig when we planted it in June 2020. Thanks to an insane cold snap and generally cold spring, blossoms were diminished and lost at the extremities. I looked through some older pics to see the leaf spot progression, and a couple weeks after we planted it, it was already dropping diseased leaves, but the summer after, it didn't start until late July or so. I'm guessing that first summer it was extra weak from transplanting and the leaf spot set in early. I hope now that it's firmly established, it'll have more strength to help fight this poo poo.
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Apr 26, 2022 17:56
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At 10' you probably want to just go ahead and drop another $100 now: https://www.domyown.com/birchmeier-telescopic-extension-wand-12m-10985201-p-1476.html They also have some nice adjustable nozzles that would make things a bit better/easier. I'm not 100% sure that particular wand is the right one for the sprayer I posted - they were just the first results from know quantity name brands in about the right prosumer range to be durable enough for season over season use. E: not that you have any reason for the actual certification, but the "private applicator packet" and maybe some of the others might be of interest to you. The extension really does do a good job on these courses/materials. https://extension.psu.edu/certification-exam-study-materials Motronic fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Apr 26, 2022 |
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Apr 26, 2022 18:07
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Motronic, you recommended vastlan as an herbicide that's safe to use around water. I can't find it around here, and when I try to find it online I find a quart for >$50.00. Domyown doesn't carry it, either. Do you have thoughts on where to find it?
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Apr 26, 2022 19:11
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Motronic, you recommended vastlan as an herbicide that's safe to use around water. I can't find it around here, and when I try to find it online I find a quart for >$50.00. Domyown doesn't carry it, either. Do you have thoughts on where to find it? Yeah, that's a little bit forestry specialized and domyown is kinda more turf/landscape focused.. I get mine from arborchem: https://www.arborchem.com/product/388/vastlan-qts
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Apr 26, 2022 19:18
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Motronic posted:Yeah, that's a little bit forestry specialized and domyown is kinda more turf/landscape focused.. I get mine from arborchem: https://www.arborchem.com/product/388/vastlan-qts Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Apr 26, 2022 |
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Apr 26, 2022 19:58
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Whoops, not for sale in California. Explains why I can't find it. e: Ships to California elsewhere, but not from that particular vendor. Oh crap. So I'm checking Imazapyr/Stalker (which would be far from my first choice near water but better than glyphosate) - nope, also not labeled for use in CA. Since I can use all of these things I'm kind of out of ideas other than my standard: call your county ag extension. If anyone is going to know they should.
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Apr 26, 2022 20:10
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Motronic posted:Oh crap. So I'm checking Imazapyr/Stalker (which would be far from my first choice near water but better than glyphosate) - nope, also not labeled for use in CA. Sounds like a plan! Weirdly, the only ebay seller I can find is located in California. 
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Apr 26, 2022 20:33
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Sounds like a plan! Weirdly, the only ebay seller I can find is located in California. I think some of the formations are still okay to use in CA, but under a restricted use label (i.e. you need a pesticide license from the depart of ag). That could possibly be why you'll find some version(s) of those there.
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Apr 26, 2022 20:47
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OSU_Matthew posted:I am super excited to hear your impressions over time, eg how the mower is holding up, how it’s doing maintaining the lawn. I’ve heard that it is supposed to be better for your lawn to do more frequent and smaller cuts, eg that’s how golf courses get such a fine thick turf (in addition to other meticulous care of course). Next year now and we did as the instructions said, charged it up, took it inside and turned it off. A few weeks ago I brought it out again and connected up the charging station and turned it on. Everything started working. It also handles the ramp I made last year without problems and covers the whole yard. I am leaving the grass long too so it'll have flowers and stuff growing in it and be more drought resistant, plus it looks lusher. Looking forward to a summer without mowing.
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May 20, 2022 09:15
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The neighbors have a black locust. Not looking for advice, just started getting the first suckers for the year. RIP me ever having a nice yard. Edit: also there's a absolute loving ton of elm saplings popping up and some sort of nightmare shrub with tap roots running from some unknown source that are thick as a loving anaconda. The other half of our yard is being taken over by choke cherries. We just bought the house in January so this is our first growing season. Edit 2: I forgot to mention the bindweed problem. That's also everywhere lol. Justa Dandelion fucked around with this message at 16:51 on May 21, 2022 |
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May 21, 2022 16:46
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Justa Dandelion posted:The neighbors have a black locust. Not looking for advice, just started getting the first suckers for the year. RIP me ever having a nice yard. I feel your pain. I have a tree of heaven in my yard. My neighbors also have one. This house is the first one I've owned that has a yard and I was confused about why there were little trees popping up everywhere. One of them reached human height before I found it. Another keeps trying to grow inside my garage. The roots are under the foundation or something so I can't get to them.
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May 21, 2022 20:49
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MrChrome posted:I feel your pain. I have a tree of heaven in my yard. My neighbors also have one. This house is the first one I've owned that has a yard and I was confused about why there were little trees popping up everywhere. Do you have spotted lanternfly near you yet? If so, you may want to consider taking that down, or consulting with an arborist to see what you can do to prevent it from being a host.
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May 23, 2022 01:32
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devicenull posted:Do you have spotted lanternfly near you yet? If so, you may want to consider taking that down, or consulting with an arborist to see what you can do to prevent it from being a host. I had not heard of this. Thanks for the heads up. Thankfully it doesn't look like they are by me... yet. This Tree of Heaven is turning out be a Tree from... you know
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May 23, 2022 19:39
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Ripped out some Trees of Heaven this very weekend. Caught one at about 7ft that I suspect was the parent tree to all of them.
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May 23, 2022 20:07
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Jfc y'all. This isn't from the black locust, this is a fuckass elm that's threatening to take out our roof. https://imgur.com/a/i1RXwA3
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May 24, 2022 05:49
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