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LochNessMonster posted:When turning the coupler it goes up perfectly fine and manually pushing down does the same. Mine went together the same way, but I didn't have a helpful YouTube video to make me panic about it, I just kept going. You're fine 🙂
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May 29, 2022 20:48
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Doctor Zero posted:I’ve got some old silk filament (like a year old) that I can’t figure out what the gently caress. It under-extrudes above layer 25 or so no matter what I do setting-wise, and no matter which printer I put it in. It was sealed the whole time, and I dried it in two different filament dryers but it’s still doing the same thing. Does silk just go bad over time? I didn’t have this trouble with non-silk PLA that old. I've had good luck with silk but I've had to increase extruder tension for most brands. I can't remember all of the settings but I've usually gone with what the manufacturer says even if it's a little hotter than I normally print. I'd do a cold pull to try to get anything in the nozzle out and see if you can get your extruder to grip better.
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May 29, 2022 21:04
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Best thing you can do for any spool of filament is to plan out enough print jobs to consume the entire spool as fast as possible and not open the spool until you're ready to do just that. There used to be a plugin for Cura (I think) where you could track filament usage on a spool and keep track of the amount of filament used in grams and get a good estimate for when that spool was going to run out as you laid out print jobs (assuming you didn't just go for one big print job at a single go).
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May 30, 2022 15:53
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Doctor Zero posted:I’ve got some old silk filament (like a year old) that I can’t figure out what the gently caress. It under-extrudes above layer 25 or so no matter what I do setting-wise, and no matter which printer I put it in. It was sealed the whole time, and I dried it in two different filament dryers but it’s still doing the same thing. Does silk just go bad over time? I didn’t have this trouble with non-silk PLA that old. No, it doens't go bad over time. TL;DR: Turn up the heat. People GREATLY underestimate the effect that the bed heat has on the hot end. The nozzle, is about as far from the heater as any part of the hot end can be. It's also thin. It also has a less than perfect connection with the hot end block. Socks help, especially ones that wrap most of the nozzle. But that bed is also 50-60-110 deg, and the radiated heat from that thing really affects the tip temperature of the nozzle. You could alter your profile to turn up the temp 10 deg or so as you get higher in the model.. but I usually find just starting hotter doesn't hurt. It's also worth noting, that Silks aren't ~a plastic~ they are a plastic with a lot of stuff in them. This.. always means "hotter", because your sticky plastic now has a bunch of stuff in it, which makes it flow a lot less easily. biracial bear for uncut posted:Best thing you can do for any spool of filament is to plan out enough print jobs to consume the entire spool as fast as possible and not open the spool until you're ready to do just that.
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May 30, 2022 22:13
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snail posted:The FFC mod is 100% worth it IMHO. Or a CANbus toolhead could be as good. The cable chains aren't an optimal solution. I had no seen the FFC mod before. Now to find a vendor who has it in stock.
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May 31, 2022 14:09
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I printed a flexi/articulated shark last night and it came out perfectly. Popped off the build plate like it was nothing and flexed right away. I'm really liking this S1P. Aside from the SD card thing, which is now irrelevant anyway.
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May 31, 2022 14:50
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Did my first 'real' print on my Mono X instead of calibration cities and so on. Let's call it a...learning opportunity. Part of the learning I would like to do is vat cleaning and maintenance. Going to get a strainer and a mason jar to dump out the vat, then I have a fine mesh funnel for putting resin back in the bottle. Then I will have a resin-y vat and FEP. What's the best way to clean out that last bit of resin? I don't want to go after it with paper towels, I feel that would scratch the FEP? Also what is a good way to remove the build plate from a Mono X after a print and let the resin drips get back in to the vat before moving to washing? Right now I'm holding it by hand at an angle and this is getting drops everywhere requiring clean up in all kinds of annoying locations after each print.
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May 31, 2022 16:49
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Does a water cooled direct drive extruder exist that's compatible with the ender 3 v2 Apparently the ender 3 s1 pro sprite has a water block in the works but it's not released yet Is there a way to get rid of all the fans? I'd love to just have a 5 gallon bucket full of distilled water + antifreeze under my desk and no fans. I have my ender 3 v2 in my office but don't want to leave it running during the day because the fans are too loud
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May 31, 2022 17:28
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Hadlock posted:Does a water cooled direct drive extruder exist that's compatible with the ender 3 v2 Quiet fans are a less complicated solution.
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May 31, 2022 18:18
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Hadlock posted:Does a water cooled direct drive extruder exist that's compatible with the ender 3 v2 You should do this and post a trip report when the system inevitably leaks and pisses water and antifreeze all over the electronics.
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May 31, 2022 19:11
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biracial bear for uncut posted:You should do this and post a trip report when the system inevitably leaks and pisses water and antifreeze all over the electronics. For real
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May 31, 2022 19:19
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My bed was warped. Happened after a few weeks of printing ABS, but persisted after going back to PLA. I must have had the screws too tight? First I tried the Nylock mod instead of the 6mm spacers. That can't unwarp the bed, it just gets those 9 points level, even with several heating cycles and leveling at temperature. My overall variance was low but always high and low in the same spots. I talked to prusa support and their recommended fix for a minor warp (0.020, just enough to screw with my first layers on the upper right corner) was to remove all the screws and heat it to 80C for a while. I let it soak for 30 min. after the heat soak, keep it hot and do the normal bed leveling. worked pretty well, the S shaped profile was gone and the bed leveling probe reported high or low in the center after the first calibration.
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May 31, 2022 19:31
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Both of my Prusas have bed issues from day one that I ultimately solved with shims. I never was very clear on what exactly the PINDA is measuring frankly or why it doesn't cope with the low spots. I just kind of got it solved with shims and moved on. But your post makes me think maybe there is a better way, I'm still kind of foggy on what exactly you did & why it worked, though.
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May 31, 2022 20:14
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I’m trying to track down an issue with my Ender 3 Pro. Every once in a while during prints, I hear a popping sound coming from the hot end (like it’s extruding a bubble or something). I’ve tried two different PLA filaments. Upgrades on this are an aluminum dual extruder gear and Capricorn tubing from the extruder to the hot end. The extruder does not seem to be slipping (at least that I can notice while staring at it). I’ve seen some people say this can be from not a flush fit between the PTFE tubing and the nozzle end, though I did my best to ensure a tight fit when installing the tubing (do all work hot, leave nozzle a half turn loose while you secure tubing, tighten nozzle). Anything else I should be looking at?
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May 31, 2022 22:14
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Hadlock posted:Does a water cooled direct drive extruder exist that's compatible with the ender 3 v2 As little as a sheet of paper can cut down most of a fans noise. An enclosure would completely silence the machine. ... why not enclose it? It's easy. It's cheaper than a pump, a bucket, a new hot end, and all of the things you'd need to make sure a leak doesn't ruin your floor. Hardboard is cheap from the hardware store. Some aluminum angle to do the edges. Even cardboard will knock down most of the fan noise. What you can't get around though, is part cooling. Which comes back to an enclosure. Gaukler posted:
TL;DR: As long a the print is fine, No. It might be a bubble. PLA isn't water "proof", so it could be steam. Does your print look ok? if so.. whatever. Unless there's "a thing that's making a problem" trying to fix things is a recipe for going insane. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 22:29 on May 31, 2022 |
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May 31, 2022 22:24
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I printed a Klein Bottle inspired back horn speaker enclosure for a 2 inch driver. Used transparent PETG. Turned out only slightly stringy, but a few passes with a butane lighter fixed that. Doesn't sound great, but is an interesting design. I may try again with normal TPL and 100% infill to give it more mass and frequency control.    
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May 31, 2022 22:44
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That's weird as poo poo I love it
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May 31, 2022 23:35
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AlexDeGruven posted:That's weird as poo poo If you are so inclined https://www.printables.com/model/171340-klein-bottle-back-loaded-horn-speaker
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May 31, 2022 23:52
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 Been messing with the color change feature in prusa slicer, also did some experiments with adding the command to cura 5 gcode. Really like how these metric screw measurers turned out overall in pla+, I want to do some in a couple more contrasting colors.
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Jun 1, 2022 00:34
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Marsupial Ape posted:I printed a Klein Bottle inspired back horn speaker enclosure for a 2 inch driver. Used transparent PETG. Turned out only slightly stringy, but a few passes with a butane lighter fixed that. Doesn't sound great, but is an interesting design. I may try again with normal TPL and 100% infill to give it more mass and frequency control. Seconding that this is just about the dumbest thing I've seen in a while. Do you have a link to the speaker you got? I want to make sure I don't accidentally buy it.
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Jun 1, 2022 00:45
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Right above you.
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Jun 1, 2022 00:47
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Marsupial Ape posted:Right above you. Did you get the 3¥ one from DAISO, or one from Amazon? If it was from Amazon, could you share the link?
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Jun 1, 2022 01:24
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CHYIU26/ They are just this super generic 2” drivers you can order all day long from China. I have…a few…from my never ending quest to make the optimal portable Bluetooth speaker. Edit: I am also going to try a 2” inch driver with a smaller magnet. I think diminishing returns is the name of the game with this design and medium.
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Jun 1, 2022 02:40
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Marsupial Ape posted:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CHYIU26/ If you haven't already, check out Hexibase's channel. He makes speakers and has done some 3d printed designs: https://www.youtube.com/c/HexiBase/videos
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Jun 1, 2022 02:50
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bird food bathtub posted:Did my first 'real' print on my Mono X instead of calibration cities and so on. Let's call it a...learning opportunity. Part of the learning I would like to do is vat cleaning and maintenance. Why the Mason jar? The only time I clean my vat like that is to change the fep. Filtering works for getting bits out. For letting the resin drip off, something like this maybe? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4722055
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Jun 1, 2022 03:12
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Rexxed posted:If you haven't already, check out Hexibase's channel. He makes speakers and has done some 3d printed designs: I've seen his stuff, thanks. I may make one of his 3" subwoofers later on when I lean into the DML speaker project.
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Jun 1, 2022 03:59
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Marsupial Ape posted:never ending quest to make the optimal portable Bluetooth speaker I ....would like to subscribe to your newsletter, sir
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Jun 1, 2022 05:48
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Ego Trip posted:Why the Mason jar? Mason jar is first-pass filter. I have a fine mesh funnel I use for ensuring the resin is cleaned up but it got clogged then I spent ten minutes holding it waiting for resin to drip out and got annoyed. Now I use a sink strainer and a mason jar to dump the vat into a mason jar and screen out the big clumps fast, then from the mason jar through the fine mesh and back in to the bottle or the vat or wherever. That drippy doodad looks cool and useful. In the example it is printed with FDM. My Ender 3 is on the back burner at the moment while hobby money goes towards resin printing. If I print it with resin will it be strong enough? So far I've only tried to print Warhammer models where strength isn't a consideration. I'm using Elegoo Grey ABS-like but I've never tested it for something like that.
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Jun 1, 2022 15:22
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The Eyes Have It posted:Both of my Prusas have bed issues from day one that I ultimately solved with shims. I never was very clear on what exactly the PINDA is measuring frankly or why it doesn't cope with the low spots. I just kind of got it solved with shims and moved on. But your post makes me think maybe there is a better way, I'm still kind of foggy on what exactly you did & why it worked, though. It wasn't hard, just time consuming since the XYZ calibration takes 10-15 min every time. Basic procedure is 3 parts. (4 if you don't have the pinda gauge) 0. print the Pinda tool. it will be roughly 1.5mm thick, your printer just has to work to print it, it doesn't have to be well adjusted. https://www.printables.com/model/57192-super-pinda-spinda-spinda-height-adjustment-tool-m 1. remove all 9 screws - put heatbed on a towel next to the printer, but leave it wired up. 2. set the heatbed to 80C at the faceplate. let it time out once (20min?) set it back to 80C and put it back together before it times out. don't put the steel sheet back yet. a. if you stick with spacers, tighten them just enough to get the calibration to work, you don't need to crank them down. 3. From the faceplate, move X & Y near the center of the bed (not the home) and move Z down to 0 then power off. manually spin the Z-axis down to the heatbed. once the nozzle touches just a bit, adjust your pinda with the stupid tool. refuckingcalibrate XYZ, you might need to do it 3 or 4 times to make sure the paper never moves around. a. check that the bed is only warping in one dimension (bowed down or up at one of the 9 points, no S curves where it is high or low between the screws.) check this with a 5x5 first layer grid. If it still has a warp, start over at step 1. It took me a couple tries to get that 0.02 warp to settle out. b. if you want, after you verify the warp is gone, take it apart again and perform the nylock mod. you need octoprint, 8 washers, & 8 M3 nylon locknuts. there's a couple good youtube tutorials. Put a zip tie on one of the 6mm spacers to use as a handle to help you gauge the heatbed is close to level against the carriage when reassembling. Keep the bed at 80C, not at ambient during assembly. Opinionated posted:
whoa that's neat, I need to look into that
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Jun 1, 2022 16:07
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Trip report on the Great Silk Debacle: I am a big dummy face and didn’t re-calibrate my e-steps after changing the extruder on the CR-6. I checked the Ender 5 and the e-steps were WAYY off as well. Dunno why though since I didn’t do anything to that except put on bed support. Maybe the stepper motor is dying? I now have super clean hotends on them both, at least. 
Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Jun 1, 2022 |
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Jun 1, 2022 17:54
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I am interested in getting an Anycubic Photon Mono X (potentially 6k, depending on how much money I feel like spending). My main concern is finding the right place to set it up, as I live in a two-family building. Nowhere in my main unit is appropriate, but I do have a semi-shared basement with space to possibly set the printer up. The basement is mainly used for storage, and a few days a week I go and lift weights or do laundry down there, otherwise it's unoccupied. My basement is split in half so I share a wall with my neighbor's side of the basement, so I want to at the least run an air purifier to reduce the smell from a resin printer, which the internet leads me to believe can be pretty bad. Running the printer in a tent sounds like it would help with this, and I can filter the air out of the tent. My bigger concern is air safety. Most people seem to say that they vent outside and nothing else, but I don't always have a safe way to privately vent outside. There is a small door, but I don't want to prop it open to the street every time I do a print. Is there anything I can do, either putting the printer in an enclosure or an air filtration system I can rig up that will allow me to safely run the printer in the basement? A seemingly irresponsible answer is that because no one spends any significant time in the basement and it's not perfectly sealed to the outdoors (thank you old Boston home), it may not be a problem worth worrying about. This doesn't sit well with me, especially since it's a basement and if the toxic offgas is heavier than air, it'll just sit in the basement and never naturally ventilate. But maybe I'm wrong and it's really not worth worrying about! It's also possible this just isn't something I can do right now, and if that's the case, all the more reason to hurry up and buy a place.
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Jun 4, 2022 01:02
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man in the eyeball hat posted:I am interested in getting an Anycubic Photon Mono X (potentially 6k, depending on how much money I feel like spending). My main concern is finding the right place to set it up, as I live in a two-family building. Nowhere in my main unit is appropriate, but I do have a semi-shared basement with space to possibly set the printer up. The basement is mainly used for storage, and a few days a week I go and lift weights or do laundry down there, otherwise it's unoccupied. Anycubic has a soy based resin which is a bit more expensive but the smell is a lot less strong. I use the tent and a ventilator with a tube running out the window and it works well. There's a smell (I use regular resin), but it's not super strong except when I lift up the cover to take out my print to wash and cure it which only takes a minute or two. I use the tent and a ventilator with a tube going out a window and it works well. Anycubic also has a small cheap purifier that gets surprisingly good reviews. I don't use it so I can't comment on it personally. If you can open the door while you actually handle the print and use a good tent, I think you're probably fine but I don't know your specific situation so use your own judgement.
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Jun 4, 2022 09:22
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Assembly of my Ender 3 v2 went rather smoothly. Printed my first Benchy which I’m fairly pleased with. A few round holes are a bit, chunky? Not sure what you call it but they’ve got some little spikes sticking out. And on the left side there’s some seams popping out slightly, but not over the entire length. Is that part of the normal production process and do I need to sand the surface to get rid of these artefacts? Added some pics to illustrate   
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Jun 4, 2022 10:25
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Jadius posted:See, this is why a cheap hot air rework station is great for this. $20 gets you a small box with a small corded wand where the heat comes out. It heats up quickly and cools down quickly too. They also come with a bunch of nozzles of various sizes so you can have more precision with where the hot air goes, so you can target just the strings and not heat up the rest of the print too much. I bought one a couple of years ago for SMD soldering stuff and I've probably used it more in the last 6 months on prints than I have removing chips and such.  Marsupial Ape posted:I printed a Klein Bottle inspired back horn speaker enclosure for a 2 inch driver. Used transparent PETG. Turned out only slightly stringy, but a few passes with a butane lighter fixed that. Doesn't sound great, but is an interesting design. I may try again with normal TPL and 100% infill to give it more mass and frequency control.
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Jun 4, 2022 12:26
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a7m2 posted:If you can open the door while you actually handle the print and use a good tent, I think you're probably fine but I don't know your specific situation so use your own judgement. Thanks, this would be doable. Guess I'm gonna look into tents to figure out a solution
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Jun 4, 2022 21:03
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3D Printing: An in-tents hobby
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Jun 4, 2022 21:06
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RabbitWizard posted:does it use infinite filament or none at all? Yes
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Jun 4, 2022 23:47
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I've got an Ender 3 V2 with 4.2.2 mainboard that I bought about a year ago. I haven't used it in about 8 months and I want to get it back up and printing. Has anything changed with these with regards to quality of life upgrades that I should look into? meatpimp fucked around with this message at 13:52 on Jun 6, 2022 |
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Jun 6, 2022 13:10
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:I've got an Ender 3 V2 with 4.2.2 mainboard that I bought about a year ago. I haven't used it in about 8 months and I want to get it back up and printing. Not really, they're pretty good. The standard stuff is bed springs (the stiffer yellow ones) and an aluminum extruder arm assembly since those are usually the bad parts. They're pretty cheap on amazon or wherever. More optional stuff would be replacing the bowden tube and couplers with better stuff (like capricorn tubing). Very optional stuff is things like bed surfaces if you have issues with yours or automatic leveling systems.
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Jun 6, 2022 14:36
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Rexxed posted:Not really, they're pretty good. The standard stuff is bed springs (the stiffer yellow ones) and an aluminum extruder arm assembly since those are usually the bad parts. They're pretty cheap on amazon or wherever. More optional stuff would be replacing the bowden tube and couplers with better stuff (like capricorn tubing). Very optional stuff is things like bed surfaces if you have issues with yours or automatic leveling systems. A spray bottle of isopropyl alcohol really helps with the glass bed, but I got the comgrow PEI coated flexible steel bed anyway and I love it.
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Jun 6, 2022 15:12
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