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Slugworth posted:I had an inspector come in once to check some plumbing I was doing. He failed me for some minor thing. I fixed it, and when he came back he dinged me for something else that was already there the first time he inspected, and he missed. When I argued the point, his words were something along the line of "it doesn't matter when we notice it, if it's not to code, it's not to code". Yes, it's a universal truth. I felt bad about it when I happened to miss something in a previous visit, but code is code and it's super minimum and when your inspecting for life safety stuff I don't care when I find it. This "you've been here and didn't see it then" poo poo can also turn into hiding things from the code officials to play that game, so none of us are willing to play that game. Now, in the situation described here: if the plan clearly shows property lines and is clearly marked with distances any competent AHJ is going to immediately reject the permit because it doesn't meet the setback requirements. Even if they don't their error/omission isn't permission. It's likely they aren't even able to grant such a variance on their own - that would most often take the zoning official and/or the entire zoning hearing board. Also, variances have to be specifically documented because if you got one then your closest neighbors are almost automatically granted the same (not really but close enough under most systems).
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 15:07 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 11:56 |
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Most aspects have already been addressed, but... In my experience, buildings or alterations that are found to have been approved in error may be subsequently addressed in any way from destroying the structure entirely to being allowed without changes and you can't assume anything. This goes for full single family homes to treehouses and doghouses. Whether or not your actions were in good faith is a factor as well, and being found to have been trying to pull a fast one will always make it worse for you. There was an especially fun one near me a few years back. It's a different situation from the OP here, but it goes to show that a fully approved project can become a massive and expensive headache. The Washington Post posted:Kingery has been tussling with the Arlington County zoning officials ever since they ruled in 2001 that he had built the house too close to the street. In 2002, an Arlington County Circuit Court judge ruled that the house could stay if Kingery cleaned up the construction debris and made a few small modifications, such as landscaping and diminishing the size of the roof overhang. Around that time, neighbor Dorothea Hanchar was out in her yard one day and saw a worker suspended from the roof in a sling, slicing off the house's back eave with a chain saw. Subsequently posted:It's a renovated, 7,000-square-foot, seven-bedroom, seven-bath house in a desirable part of North Arlington, and it's on the market for less than $750,000. Just shrink the house by 9 inches in two dimensions, problem solved. glynnenstein fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jun 1, 2022 |
# ? Jun 1, 2022 16:24 |
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Yeah, let me just wave my magic wand... Seriously though, if the zoning board is going to enforce the regulation then the structure has no value and should not be able to be sold except as a demolition job. Trying to shave 9" off of two sides of an existing structure is a cost prohibitive operation, assuming the building has proper footings and isn't on a slab.
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 17:20 |
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PremiumSupport posted:Yeah, let me just wave my magic wand... Property values being what they are inside the beltway... it ended up selling for $450,000 to the folks who made the required adjustments. It was crazy to watch, just took off two entire sides of the house and cut it back. It sold again most recently last month for $1,620,000.
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 18:53 |
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glynnenstein posted:Property values being what they are inside the beltway... it ended up selling for $450,000 to the folks who made the required adjustments. It was crazy to watch, just took off two entire sides of the house and cut it back. Hope they got an engineer to sign off on the plans...
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 19:02 |
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My house is over 100 years old and has the original wood floors and they are in need of a good refinishing. My issue is.... I have pet pigs.. five of them, and one is close to 400 lbs. What are my options as far as durability that may be able to hold up 7 sets of feet when five of them are cloven for at least for a few years? Big baby for refrence The Spookmaster fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Jun 1, 2022 |
# ? Jun 1, 2022 21:59 |
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Sincerely, train him to wear shoes
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 22:06 |
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Holy poo poo.
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 22:14 |
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The Spookmaster posted:My house is over 100 years old and has the original wood floors and they are in need of a good refinishing. My issue is.... I have pet pigs.. five of them, and one is close to 400 lbs. What are my options as far as durability that may be able to hold up 7 sets of feet when five of them are cloven for at least for a few years? I think having the wood floors refinished (sanded/stained/sealed?) would be the best bet. I kind of doubt even the high end LVP will last long term better than good old 100 year old 3/4" thick old growth flooring wood planks. Or you could not have a motorcycle theft deterrent in the house.
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 23:00 |
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Goddamn sometimes you just see a post that reminds you of why you keep posting on this dead-rear end forum
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 23:22 |
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This is going to sound dumb but for my horizontal fence, I know ground contact pressure treated 4x4s as the posts, but what about the slats? 2x6 PT? 5/4 PT deck board?
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 23:27 |
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tangy yet delightful posted:I think having the wood floors refinished (sanded/stained/sealed?) would be the best bet. I kind of doubt even the high end LVP will last long term better than good old 100 year old 3/4" thick old growth flooring wood planks. Yea i definitely want to have them refinished I'm just wondering what the most durable coating would be. We have lots of rugs and runners that help with the traffic but it's still a ton of wear and tear. Not a Children posted:Goddamn sometimes you just see a post that reminds you of why you keep posting on this dead-rear end forum The Spookmaster fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jun 1, 2022 |
# ? Jun 1, 2022 23:30 |
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Not a Children posted:Goddamn sometimes you just see a post that reminds you of why you keep posting on this dead-rear end forum This is the pig balls website after all.
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 23:30 |
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KKKLIP ART posted:This is going to sound dumb but for my horizontal fence, I know ground contact pressure treated 4x4s as the posts, but what about the slats? 2x6 PT? 5/4 PT deck board? The slats just need to be opaque, pretty much. Often, fence slats are redwood or cedar, because those have some natural rot resistance. Moisture resistance is nice but not essential, because they aren't in constant contact with water.
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 23:49 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The slats just need to be opaque, pretty much. Often, fence slats are redwood or cedar, because those have some natural rot resistance. Moisture resistance is nice but not essential, because they aren't in constant contact with water. But a 2x6 of whatever wood is perfectly fine assuming it is either moisture resistant or pressure treated?
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 01:45 |
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The Spookmaster posted:Yea i definitely want to have them refinished I'm just wondering what the most durable coating would be. We have lots of rugs and runners that help with the traffic but it's still a ton of wear and tear. Basketball floor urethane. It takes two days to cure, but it's basically impervious to anything.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 01:47 |
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The Spookmaster posted:Yea i definitely want to have them refinished I'm just wondering what the most durable coating would be. We have lots of rugs and runners that help with the traffic but it's still a ton of wear and tear. We refinished our floors with polyurethane ("varethane" brand), three coats, and they've held up to shoes and cat claws for a decade. I can't guarantee pigproof but polyurethane is used for bowling alleys and on basketball courts. It's pretty hard-wearing.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 01:55 |
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what're the odds two pig balls gang taggers in a row know about polyurethane floor treatments, lol
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 01:56 |
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KKKLIP ART posted:But a 2x6 of whatever wood is perfectly fine assuming it is either moisture resistant or pressure treated? 2x is overkill, 1x is fine, and it's not unheard-of to have 1/2" slats.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 03:20 |
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Nonsense, my fence needs to be strong enough to resist the local bear and mountain lions. Fence goals.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 04:04 |
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I hear hay flooring is all the rage in pig world.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 05:49 |
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:Nonsense, my fence needs to be strong enough to resist the local bear and mountain lions. drat they've really changed up the Rust graphics. Might need to check that out again.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 05:52 |
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The Spookmaster posted:My house is over 100 years old and has the original wood floors and they are in need of a good refinishing. My issue is.... I have pet pigs.. five of them, and one is close to 400 lbs. What are my options as far as durability that may be able to hold up 7 sets of feet when five of them are cloven for at least for a few years? god bless you and everything you do
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 09:51 |
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what proportion of that weight would you say is balls
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 12:37 |
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The Spookmaster posted:My house is over 100 years old and has the original wood floors and they are in need of a good refinishing. My issue is.... I have pet pigs.. five of them, and one is close to 400 lbs. What are my options as far as durability that may be able to hold up 7 sets of feet when five of them are cloven for at least for a few years? One of the great questions of our time.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 12:45 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:2x is overkill, 1x is fine, and it's not unheard-of to have 1/2" slats. So 1x6 horizontal slats will be fine? Pressure treated, cedar, or at the very least moisture resistant and then sealed. Sounds like a plan.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 15:09 |
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Sounds good to me, good luck with the build!
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 15:53 |
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Sounds good to me, good luck with the build! Thanks! I'll be sure to post pictures in the DIY projects thread, its been fun trying to figure out where everything goes in terms of measuring posts and stuff. The sides with no gates are no issue.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 17:24 |
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Hate to double post but as a followup question, I am digging down 1 2/3 feet using 4x4 posts. Quickrete says I need a 12 in hole, and I need 4 bags of 40lb per hole. Does that sound reasonable?
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 21:45 |
Couple days ago one of my ceiling lights stopped working, and as I went to unscrew the bulb the fixture just detached from the ceiling. Thankfully the wire nuts were strong enough to keep it from falling to the floor. Thing was only held up by two wood screws threaded into the drywall, right on the border of the circular cutout. Can't believe it stayed up there for the three years I've been in this apartment. I bought a new LED light fixture and one of these round junction boxes. I thought the existing hole would be the right size to fit the junction box, but it's too small. And the space behind the drywall is filled with some sort of insulation. Strangest of all, deeper inside the hole I can see what looks like an older junction box, but it's too recessed for me to mount any fixture to. I'm very comfortable with electrical stuff, but I'm not sure how to approach this. Using this old work box will require widening the space up there, and I'm afraid of spreading the insulation around my living room. Looks like some sort of spray foam, but could be asbestos or UFFI for all I know. Or maybe there's some way to use the mounting holes of the junction box already in there?
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 23:10 |
Here's a bit of the insulation I scooped out. Also, there's another apartment above me, so I can't do any work or inspection from above.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 23:15 |
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ANIME AKBAR posted:Using this old work box will require widening the space up there, and I'm afraid of spreading the insulation around my living room. I would never suggest this for anything more thn a hole or two, but: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-H...s%2C440&sr=8-13 This will not only be adjustable to the size you need but also will catch all the dust. The real versions of these look more like rubberized cups to catch the dust an an actual hole saw arbor with real hole saw bits. We're talking $150+ without even counting the drill you'll need to run it. So that little lovely thing should work. I've used it before in a pinch. The only problem you may run into is that it can't cut deep enough. But if you get through the sheetrock at the right distance you can probably use a disposable razor knife (the kind you break tips off of) to cut through the rest of the spray foam to the depth you need, or just use your ice cream scoop (lol that was awesome). Motronic fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Jun 3, 2022 |
# ? Jun 3, 2022 00:02 |
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ANIME AKBAR posted:Couple days ago one of my ceiling lights stopped working, and as I went to unscrew the bulb the fixture just detached from the ceiling. Thankfully the wire nuts were strong enough to keep it from falling to the floor. Thing was only held up by two wood screws threaded into the drywall, right on the border of the circular cutout. Can't believe it stayed up there for the three years I've been in this apartment. This is an apartment? As in a place you are renting, not a unit that you own? Call your landlord and tell them to fix the light. Don't do repairs on a place you don't own. Both because that's the obligation of the person who actually owns it, and also because it's not your property and you don't know how they're going to want it done. Also holy poo poo don't do it with electrical. Even if it's a bone simple thing that you know you can do safely, if there's a problem later on they're really, REALLY not going to like that you were loving around with it. I really wouldn't want to be living in an apartment that had a fire, for example, and have it come out that I was doing un-approved electrical work even if it came out that the fire was started by someone smoking in bed.
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# ? Jun 3, 2022 00:28 |
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Cyrano4747 posted:This is an apartment? As in a place you are renting, not a unit that you own? Also this. I was assuming this is an apartment the OP owns.
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# ? Jun 3, 2022 00:35 |
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Motronic posted:I would never suggest this for anything more thn a hole or two, but: https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-Secu...ps%2C595&sr=8-3 Link shows a security camera.
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# ? Jun 3, 2022 01:05 |
Cyrano4747 posted:This is an apartment? As in a place you are renting, not a unit that you own? Just because someone is willing and obligated to do something, doesn't mean it'll get done. Cyrano4747 posted:Also holy poo poo don't do it with electrical. Even if it's a bone simple thing that you know you can do safely, if there's a problem later on they're really, REALLY not going to like that you were loving around with it. I really wouldn't want to be living in an apartment that had a fire, for example, and have it come out that I was doing un-approved electrical work even if it came out that the fire was started by someone smoking in bed. Motronic posted:I would never suggest this for anything more thn a hole or two, but: https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-Secu...ps%2C595&sr=8-3
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# ? Jun 3, 2022 01:10 |
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I'm betting he meant something like this, so all the dust and poo poo gets self-contained.
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# ? Jun 3, 2022 01:35 |
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KKKLIP ART posted:Hate to double post but as a followup question, I am digging down 1 2/3 feet using 4x4 posts. Quickrete says I need a 12 in hole, and I need 4 bags of 40lb per hole. Does that sound reasonable? you get about 12"x12"x4" per bag of concrete. 4 sounds a little low, i'd expect to need 5 bags/hole and have 6/hole on hand just in case. if you're gonna mix the concrete rent a mixer. that said, pretty much everyone i see does the "pour concrete mix in the hole and chase w water" but that always gives me the heebie-jeebies
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# ? Jun 3, 2022 13:11 |
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ANIME AKBAR posted:Yeah I'm renting. My landlord is actually generally willing to get stuff fixed. If anything he's too nice and accommodating, which is why last time I had a maintenance issue I couldn't deal with, the contractor he hired spent the first three visits just racking up hours without actually doing poo poo. Both me and the landlord were getting dicked over until I told him to hire someone else, which he immediately did and finally it got fixed. It's not about the realities of you leaving behind a fire hazard, it's about the liability of doing unapproved electrical work on something that isn't yours. This isn't just major liability like the place burning down, it's about your landlord being justifiably pissed that you did work on your unit without their approval. I'll also add that it's unfair to both you and your landlord. It's unfair for you to fix poo poo you don't own when that's the responsibility of the person you're paying rent to. You're already paying to have repairs and maintenance done on your place, you're just doing it in a pre-paid monthly form via your rent. It's also unfair to the person who actually owns the property, because they have zero idea what you're doing - again, with their property - if you're competent, what quality materials you're using, and whether you're doing the repair the way they would want it done. Call your landlord, explain that the light is hosed up, and let them deal with it. Don't DIY someone else's property.
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# ? Jun 3, 2022 13:13 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 11:56 |
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ANIME AKBAR posted:I'm very comfortable with electrical stuff, but I'm not sure how to approach this. Using this old work box will require widening the space up there, and I'm afraid of spreading the insulation around my living room. Looks like some sort of spray foam, but could be asbestos or UFFI for all I know. Or maybe there's some way to use the mounting holes of the junction box already in there? get a buddy to hold a shop vac hose right under the hole as you generate dust. if you really wanna limit spread set up a plastic dust barrier i'd be surprised if a pro took any dust mitigation measures beyond sweeping and vacuuming so DIY might be better for your circumstances. personally i'd clean &open the area up in a manner that's agreeable to you and then call a pro to set a j-box up
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# ? Jun 3, 2022 13:19 |