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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Slugworth posted:

I had an inspector come in once to check some plumbing I was doing. He failed me for some minor thing. I fixed it, and when he came back he dinged me for something else that was already there the first time he inspected, and he missed. When I argued the point, his words were something along the line of "it doesn't matter when we notice it, if it's not to code, it's not to code".

Is that a universal truth? Who knows. But I wouldn't gamble on something like what you're proposing.

Yes, it's a universal truth. I felt bad about it when I happened to miss something in a previous visit, but code is code and it's super minimum and when your inspecting for life safety stuff I don't care when I find it.

This "you've been here and didn't see it then" poo poo can also turn into hiding things from the code officials to play that game, so none of us are willing to play that game.

Now, in the situation described here: if the plan clearly shows property lines and is clearly marked with distances any competent AHJ is going to immediately reject the permit because it doesn't meet the setback requirements. Even if they don't their error/omission isn't permission. It's likely they aren't even able to grant such a variance on their own - that would most often take the zoning official and/or the entire zoning hearing board.

Also, variances have to be specifically documented because if you got one then your closest neighbors are almost automatically granted the same (not really but close enough under most systems).

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glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


Most aspects have already been addressed, but...

In my experience, buildings or alterations that are found to have been approved in error may be subsequently addressed in any way from destroying the structure entirely to being allowed without changes and you can't assume anything. This goes for full single family homes to treehouses and doghouses. Whether or not your actions were in good faith is a factor as well, and being found to have been trying to pull a fast one will always make it worse for you.


There was an especially fun one near me a few years back. It's a different situation from the OP here, but it goes to show that a fully approved project can become a massive and expensive headache.

The Washington Post posted:

Kingery has been tussling with the Arlington County zoning officials ever since they ruled in 2001 that he had built the house too close to the street. In 2002, an Arlington County Circuit Court judge ruled that the house could stay if Kingery cleaned up the construction debris and made a few small modifications, such as landscaping and diminishing the size of the roof overhang. Around that time, neighbor Dorothea Hanchar was out in her yard one day and saw a worker suspended from the roof in a sling, slicing off the house's back eave with a chain saw.

Zoning officials say that Kingery did not comply with the terms and that variances for the house are no longer valid. Kingery is currently appealing the ruling to Arlington Circuit Court, but in August he complicated matters by filing for Chapter 13 bankruptcy, saying that the zoning dispute prompted his bank to demand full payment of his $700,000 home loan.

Kingery said the house has been egged and his tires have been slashed; neighbors say curiosity seekers with out-of-state plates stop to take pictures, blocking traffic. They just want the ugly structure torn down. Kingery is afraid it will be.

Subsequently posted:

It's a renovated, 7,000-square-foot, seven-bedroom, seven-bath house in a desirable part of North Arlington, and it's on the market for less than $750,000.

In an area where houses often carry million-dollar price tags, the deal seems extraordinary.

But little about the house has ever been ordinary.

The home, at the corner of 27th and North Sycamore streets, probably is Arlington's most controversial residence. A blue behemoth, it violated zoning regulations -- and in many opinions, good taste -- almost as soon as it was framed. Neighbors refer to it as the "airplane hangar" and the "blue brick."

It sparked a four-year legal battle between the county and its former owner and continues to breach zoning ordinances. But it's on the market for "just the right buyer," said listing broker George Greene of Star Homes Realty Inc.

"If someone had six or seven kids, it might be a good place for them. It's in a nice neighborhood with good schools. It really has a clubhouse feel," Greene said.

The house was bought at foreclosure last month by Bereen & Barry Investments LLC of Fairfax at a bargain price. The county has assessed its worth at $993,600 -- about $275,000 for the lot and $718,000 for the structure.

"You can't buy a home in today's market for below the tax assessment. It's unheard of," Greene said.

Potential owners might appreciate the house's ballroom-size living room (at least 50 by 100 feet), its basement with marble walls, the seven-room master suite or the bathrooms that adjoin every bedroom.

But much of the home remains unfinished. Several rooms have plywood floors, three flights of stairs are roughed in, the kitchen lacks countertops and the makeshift porch seems downright dangerous, with a plywood floor resting precariously over a 12-foot-deep cement foundation that houses a hot tub.

A buyer wanting to take on the monster project would first have to deal with Arlington County, which plans to enforce a variance granted to owner Paul M. Kingery in 1999, requiring that the house meet setback regulations.

Under that variance, two of the house's four sides must be moved by at least nine inches each, zoning coordinator Tony Burnett said this week. "The county is going to pursue this. We are not going to let it slide," Burnett said.

Just shrink the house by 9 inches in two dimensions, problem solved.

glynnenstein fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jun 1, 2022

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015
Yeah, let me just wave my magic wand...

Seriously though, if the zoning board is going to enforce the regulation then the structure has no value and should not be able to be sold except as a demolition job. Trying to shave 9" off of two sides of an existing structure is a cost prohibitive operation, assuming the building has proper footings and isn't on a slab.

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


PremiumSupport posted:

Yeah, let me just wave my magic wand...

Seriously though, if the zoning board is going to enforce the regulation then the structure has no value and should not be able to be sold except as a demolition job. Trying to shave 9" off of two sides of an existing structure is a cost prohibitive operation, assuming the building has proper footings and isn't on a slab.

Property values being what they are inside the beltway... it ended up selling for $450,000 to the folks who made the required adjustments. It was crazy to watch, just took off two entire sides of the house and cut it back.

It sold again most recently last month for $1,620,000.

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015

glynnenstein posted:

Property values being what they are inside the beltway... it ended up selling for $450,000 to the folks who made the required adjustments. It was crazy to watch, just took off two entire sides of the house and cut it back.

It sold again most recently last month for $1,620,000.

Hope they got an engineer to sign off on the plans...

The Spookmaster
Sep 9, 2002

My house is over 100 years old and has the original wood floors and they are in need of a good refinishing. My issue is.... I have pet pigs.. five of them, and one is close to 400 lbs. What are my options as far as durability that may be able to hold up 7 sets of feet when five of them are cloven for at least for a few years?

Big baby for refrence

The Spookmaster fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Jun 1, 2022

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Sincerely, train him to wear shoes

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Holy poo poo.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



The Spookmaster posted:

My house is over 100 years old and has the original wood floors and they are in need of a good refinishing. My issue is.... I have pet pigs.. five of them, and one is close to 400 lbs. What are my options as far as durability that may be able to hold up 7 sets of feet when five of them are cloven for at least for a few years?

Big baby for refrence


I think having the wood floors refinished (sanded/stained/sealed?) would be the best bet. I kind of doubt even the high end LVP will last long term better than good old 100 year old 3/4" thick old growth flooring wood planks.

Or you could not have a motorcycle theft deterrent in the house.

Not a Children
Oct 9, 2012

Don't need a holster if you never stop shooting.

Goddamn sometimes you just see a post that reminds you of why you keep posting on this dead-rear end forum

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

This is going to sound dumb but for my horizontal fence, I know ground contact pressure treated 4x4s as the posts, but what about the slats? 2x6 PT? 5/4 PT deck board?

The Spookmaster
Sep 9, 2002

tangy yet delightful posted:

I think having the wood floors refinished (sanded/stained/sealed?) would be the best bet. I kind of doubt even the high end LVP will last long term better than good old 100 year old 3/4" thick old growth flooring wood planks.

Or you could not have a motorcycle theft deterrent in the house.

Yea i definitely want to have them refinished I'm just wondering what the most durable coating would be. We have lots of rugs and runners that help with the traffic but it's still a ton of wear and tear.

Not a Children posted:

Goddamn sometimes you just see a post that reminds you of why you keep posting on this dead-rear end forum

:parrot:

The Spookmaster fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jun 1, 2022

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Not a Children posted:

Goddamn sometimes you just see a post that reminds you of why you keep posting on this dead-rear end forum

This is the pig balls website after all.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

KKKLIP ART posted:

This is going to sound dumb but for my horizontal fence, I know ground contact pressure treated 4x4s as the posts, but what about the slats? 2x6 PT? 5/4 PT deck board?

The slats just need to be opaque, pretty much. Often, fence slats are redwood or cedar, because those have some natural rot resistance. Moisture resistance is nice but not essential, because they aren't in constant contact with water.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

The slats just need to be opaque, pretty much. Often, fence slats are redwood or cedar, because those have some natural rot resistance. Moisture resistance is nice but not essential, because they aren't in constant contact with water.

But a 2x6 of whatever wood is perfectly fine assuming it is either moisture resistant or pressure treated?

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


The Spookmaster posted:

Yea i definitely want to have them refinished I'm just wondering what the most durable coating would be. We have lots of rugs and runners that help with the traffic but it's still a ton of wear and tear.

:parrot:

Basketball floor urethane. It takes two days to cure, but it's basically impervious to anything.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

The Spookmaster posted:

Yea i definitely want to have them refinished I'm just wondering what the most durable coating would be. We have lots of rugs and runners that help with the traffic but it's still a ton of wear and tear.

:parrot:

We refinished our floors with polyurethane ("varethane" brand), three coats, and they've held up to shoes and cat claws for a decade. I can't guarantee pigproof but polyurethane is used for bowling alleys and on basketball courts. It's pretty hard-wearing.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

what're the odds two pig balls gang taggers in a row know about polyurethane floor treatments, lol

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

KKKLIP ART posted:

But a 2x6 of whatever wood is perfectly fine assuming it is either moisture resistant or pressure treated?

2x is overkill, 1x is fine, and it's not unheard-of to have 1/2" slats.

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
Nonsense, my fence needs to be strong enough to resist the local bear and mountain lions.



Fence goals.

Internet Explorer
Jun 1, 2005





I hear hay flooring is all the rage in pig world.

Internet Explorer
Jun 1, 2005





CRUSTY MINGE posted:

Nonsense, my fence needs to be strong enough to resist the local bear and mountain lions.



Fence goals.

drat they've really changed up the Rust graphics. Might need to check that out again.

Goons Are Gifts
Jan 1, 1970

The Spookmaster posted:

My house is over 100 years old and has the original wood floors and they are in need of a good refinishing. My issue is.... I have pet pigs.. five of them, and one is close to 400 lbs. What are my options as far as durability that may be able to hold up 7 sets of feet when five of them are cloven for at least for a few years?

Big baby for refrence


god bless you and everything you do

Kaysette
Jan 5, 2009

~*Boston makes me*~
~*feel good*~

:wrongcity:
what proportion of that weight would you say is balls

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

The Spookmaster posted:

My house is over 100 years old and has the original wood floors and they are in need of a good refinishing. My issue is.... I have pet pigs.. five of them, and one is close to 400 lbs. What are my options as far as durability that may be able to hold up 7 sets of feet when five of them are cloven for at least for a few years?

Big baby for refrence


One of the great questions of our time.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

2x is overkill, 1x is fine, and it's not unheard-of to have 1/2" slats.

So 1x6 horizontal slats will be fine? Pressure treated, cedar, or at the very least moisture resistant and then sealed. Sounds like a plan.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Sounds good to me, good luck with the build!

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Sounds good to me, good luck with the build!

Thanks! I'll be sure to post pictures in the DIY projects thread, its been fun trying to figure out where everything goes in terms of measuring posts and stuff. The sides with no gates are no issue.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

Hate to double post but as a followup question, I am digging down 1 2/3 feet using 4x4 posts. Quickrete says I need a 12 in hole, and I need 4 bags of 40lb per hole. Does that sound reasonable?

ANIME AKBAR
Jan 25, 2007

afu~
Couple days ago one of my ceiling lights stopped working, and as I went to unscrew the bulb the fixture just detached from the ceiling. Thankfully the wire nuts were strong enough to keep it from falling to the floor. Thing was only held up by two wood screws threaded into the drywall, right on the border of the circular cutout. Can't believe it stayed up there for the three years I've been in this apartment.

I bought a new LED light fixture and one of these round junction boxes. I thought the existing hole would be the right size to fit the junction box, but it's too small. And the space behind the drywall is filled with some sort of insulation. Strangest of all, deeper inside the hole I can see what looks like an older junction box, but it's too recessed for me to mount any fixture to.

I'm very comfortable with electrical stuff, but I'm not sure how to approach this. Using this old work box will require widening the space up there, and I'm afraid of spreading the insulation around my living room. Looks like some sort of spray foam, but could be asbestos or UFFI for all I know. Or maybe there's some way to use the mounting holes of the junction box already in there?

Only registered members can see post attachments!

ANIME AKBAR
Jan 25, 2007

afu~
Here's a bit of the insulation I scooped out.

Also, there's another apartment above me, so I can't do any work or inspection from above.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

ANIME AKBAR posted:

Using this old work box will require widening the space up there, and I'm afraid of spreading the insulation around my living room.

I would never suggest this for anything more thn a hole or two, but: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-H...s%2C440&sr=8-13

This will not only be adjustable to the size you need but also will catch all the dust.

The real versions of these look more like rubberized cups to catch the dust an an actual hole saw arbor with real hole saw bits. We're talking $150+ without even counting the drill you'll need to run it. So that little lovely thing should work. I've used it before in a pinch. The only problem you may run into is that it can't cut deep enough. But if you get through the sheetrock at the right distance you can probably use a disposable razor knife (the kind you break tips off of) to cut through the rest of the spray foam to the depth you need, or just use your ice cream scoop (lol that was awesome).

Motronic fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Jun 3, 2022

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

ANIME AKBAR posted:

Couple days ago one of my ceiling lights stopped working, and as I went to unscrew the bulb the fixture just detached from the ceiling. Thankfully the wire nuts were strong enough to keep it from falling to the floor. Thing was only held up by two wood screws threaded into the drywall, right on the border of the circular cutout. Can't believe it stayed up there for the three years I've been in this apartment.

I bought a new LED light fixture and one of these round junction boxes. I thought the existing hole would be the right size to fit the junction box, but it's too small. And the space behind the drywall is filled with some sort of insulation. Strangest of all, deeper inside the hole I can see what looks like an older junction box, but it's too recessed for me to mount any fixture to.

I'm very comfortable with electrical stuff, but I'm not sure how to approach this. Using this old work box will require widening the space up there, and I'm afraid of spreading the insulation around my living room. Looks like some sort of spray foam, but could be asbestos or UFFI for all I know. Or maybe there's some way to use the mounting holes of the junction box already in there?



This is an apartment? As in a place you are renting, not a unit that you own?

Call your landlord and tell them to fix the light.

Don't do repairs on a place you don't own. Both because that's the obligation of the person who actually owns it, and also because it's not your property and you don't know how they're going to want it done.

Also holy poo poo don't do it with electrical. Even if it's a bone simple thing that you know you can do safely, if there's a problem later on they're really, REALLY not going to like that you were loving around with it. I really wouldn't want to be living in an apartment that had a fire, for example, and have it come out that I was doing un-approved electrical work even if it came out that the fire was started by someone smoking in bed.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Cyrano4747 posted:

This is an apartment? As in a place you are renting, not a unit that you own?

Call your landlord and tell them to fix the light.

Also this. I was assuming this is an apartment the OP owns.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Motronic posted:

I would never suggest this for anything more thn a hole or two, but: https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-Secu...ps%2C595&sr=8-3

This will not only be adjustable to the size you need but also will catch all the dust.

The real versions of these look more like rubberized cups to catch the dust an an actual hole saw arbor with real hole saw bits. We're talking $150+ without even counting the drill you'll need to run it. So that little lovely thing should work. I've used it before in a pinch. The only problem you may run into is that it can't cut deep enough. But if you get through the sheetrock at the right distance you can probably use a disposable razor knife (the kind you break tips off of) to cut through the rest of the spray foam to the depth you need, or just use your ice cream scoop (lol that was awesome).

Link shows a security camera.

ANIME AKBAR
Jan 25, 2007

afu~

Cyrano4747 posted:

This is an apartment? As in a place you are renting, not a unit that you own?

Call your landlord and tell them to fix the light.
Yeah I'm renting. My landlord is actually generally willing to get stuff fixed. If anything he's too nice and accommodating, which is why last time I had a maintenance issue I couldn't deal with, the contractor he hired spent the first three visits just racking up hours without actually doing poo poo. Both me and the landlord were getting dicked over until I told him to hire someone else, which he immediately did and finally it got fixed.

Just because someone is willing and obligated to do something, doesn't mean it'll get done.

Cyrano4747 posted:

Also holy poo poo don't do it with electrical. Even if it's a bone simple thing that you know you can do safely, if there's a problem later on they're really, REALLY not going to like that you were loving around with it. I really wouldn't want to be living in an apartment that had a fire, for example, and have it come out that I was doing un-approved electrical work even if it came out that the fire was started by someone smoking in bed.
Your point is well taken, but I don't think it's possible for me to leave behind a bigger fire hazard than I started with (I'm replacing a 100W incandescent with a 26W LED light). Liability won't mean a drat thing to my charred skeleton. The insulation and drywall is another issue, I can't tell whether I'm going to poison myself by cutting into the ceiling.

Motronic posted:

I would never suggest this for anything more thn a hole or two, but: https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-Secu...ps%2C595&sr=8-3
Wrong link, but I'm guessing you're describing a router or something? At that point I'm definitely in "hire a professional" territory.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I'm betting he meant something like this, so all the dust and poo poo gets self-contained.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

KKKLIP ART posted:

Hate to double post but as a followup question, I am digging down 1 2/3 feet using 4x4 posts. Quickrete says I need a 12 in hole, and I need 4 bags of 40lb per hole. Does that sound reasonable?

you get about 12"x12"x4" per bag of concrete. 4 sounds a little low, i'd expect to need 5 bags/hole and have 6/hole on hand just in case.

if you're gonna mix the concrete rent a mixer. that said, pretty much everyone i see does the "pour concrete mix in the hole and chase w water" but that always gives me the heebie-jeebies

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

ANIME AKBAR posted:

Yeah I'm renting. My landlord is actually generally willing to get stuff fixed. If anything he's too nice and accommodating, which is why last time I had a maintenance issue I couldn't deal with, the contractor he hired spent the first three visits just racking up hours without actually doing poo poo. Both me and the landlord were getting dicked over until I told him to hire someone else, which he immediately did and finally it got fixed.

Just because someone is willing and obligated to do something, doesn't mean it'll get done.

Your point is well taken, but I don't think it's possible for me to leave behind a bigger fire hazard than I started with (I'm replacing a 100W incandescent with a 26W LED light). Liability won't mean a drat thing to my charred skeleton. The insulation and drywall is another issue, I can't tell whether I'm going to poison myself by cutting into the ceiling.

Wrong link, but I'm guessing you're describing a router or something? At that point I'm definitely in "hire a professional" territory.

It's not about the realities of you leaving behind a fire hazard, it's about the liability of doing unapproved electrical work on something that isn't yours. This isn't just major liability like the place burning down, it's about your landlord being justifiably pissed that you did work on your unit without their approval.

I'll also add that it's unfair to both you and your landlord. It's unfair for you to fix poo poo you don't own when that's the responsibility of the person you're paying rent to. You're already paying to have repairs and maintenance done on your place, you're just doing it in a pre-paid monthly form via your rent.

It's also unfair to the person who actually owns the property, because they have zero idea what you're doing - again, with their property - if you're competent, what quality materials you're using, and whether you're doing the repair the way they would want it done.

Call your landlord, explain that the light is hosed up, and let them deal with it. Don't DIY someone else's property.

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BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

ANIME AKBAR posted:

I'm very comfortable with electrical stuff, but I'm not sure how to approach this. Using this old work box will require widening the space up there, and I'm afraid of spreading the insulation around my living room. Looks like some sort of spray foam, but could be asbestos or UFFI for all I know. Or maybe there's some way to use the mounting holes of the junction box already in there?



get a buddy to hold a shop vac hose right under the hole as you generate dust. if you really wanna limit spread set up a plastic dust barrier

i'd be surprised if a pro took any dust mitigation measures beyond sweeping and vacuuming so DIY might be better for your circumstances. personally i'd clean &open the area up in a manner that's agreeable to you and then call a pro to set a j-box up

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