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Sgt Fox
Dec 21, 2004

It's the buzzer I love the most. Makes me feel alive. Makes the V8's dead.

Johnny Truant posted:

I'm about to take my loving maul to this garbage toolbox so before I do that I'll ask here: how the gently caress do you get drawer runners off a track like this one?


You can already see where the runner is bent from me trying to take it off by depressing the past of the drawer that catches. But it seems the runner metal is cheap dogshit, because I have not once gotten the drawer catch past the runner stopper thing.

Push the little tab on the red drawer part in with a screwdriver through the oval slot, not where you are bending the rail. It will bend in and then you can slide the rail off. Bend it back out before reinserting the drawer.

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nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

I get those little hex bit drivers stuck all the time in my impact driver. Usually whacking it on the side breaks it loose.

Are you (and the people I’ve seen with similar questions) not using a bit holder? Something like this: https://m.northerntool.com/shop/too...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds

BeastOfExmoor
Aug 19, 2003

I will be gone, but not forever.

Jedi425 posted:

My hands aren't the greatest, and I spend a fair amount of time dealing with tiny electronic screws at home and work. But this is why I ask these things, hah.

Can't speak to this product at all, but if I was working on small electronics, etc. I would definitely buy something like this.

oXDemosthenesXo
May 9, 2005
Grimey Drawer

nitsuga posted:

Are you (and the people I’ve seen with similar questions) not using a bit holder? Something like this: https://m.northerntool.com/shop/too...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yeah I'm using a bit holder. I'm probably not using impact rated holders or bits so I'm not surprised they get stuck somethings but it's easy enough to unjam them.

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

In an impact with a quick release chuck I don’t see the point of a bit holder :shrug:

deimos
Nov 30, 2006

Forget it man this bat is whack, it's got poobrain!
The wowstick is decent for electronics, but I find that even for that it has anemic torque. I've used the Sequre one and it's pretty darn nice.

As for 4mm driver bits, not that uncommon, I use Wiha ones just fine.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

I’ve always thought it was the proper way with the short bits. I did try a short bit in my driver, and it seems like it would work, but I think I’ll stick to my ways. Also, you really should use impact-rated bits. Treat yourself.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Sgt Fox posted:

Push the little tab on the red drawer part in with a screwdriver through the oval slot, not where you are bending the rail. It will bend in and then you can slide the rail off. Bend it back out before reinserting the drawer.

Well I tried this when I initially made my salty complaint post, but I tried it again since you suggested it... and it worked! I think I just gotta have something to brace it opposite of where I'm applying force. Thanks for the advice!

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

25% off Greenworks site with code USA25

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Is this a thread suitable for talking stuff like chainsaws, brush cutters and other small two-stroke engine stuff?

If so I got this Jonsered 451EV from 1976/77 I am working on:


It's a lovely saw, known for it's durability, there's hardly any plastic on it, aluminium and magnesium construction.

I of course decide to tear it down


Inside the rear handle, it has an electric heating element


The clutch is not screwed on, it's held with a taper like the flywheel on the other side


Generator for the heated handles


Cylinder off


For 40+ years it's not bad I guess, looks like some transfer I guess. I mic'ed the cylinder bore and it's still exactly 42.00mm.



Crank case seals removed and cleaning started:


Will be replacing the piston ring, fuel lines, crank case seals and possibly some other stuff. The heating element for the front handle is gone, dunno what happened to it so I am trying to make a replacement for it, if only I could get someone with a working handle to check the heating filaments resistance.

I've had several parts in the ultrasonic cleaner already and soaked some parts in fuel, I plan to glass bead blast the outside of the cylinder and also the muffler before painting with heat-curing paint.

I took apart the broken switch for the heating element too, I heard this one is rare to find, but it looks super simple, a ball joint really. I think I could make a new one on the lathe. Or just buy a replacement SPST lever switch, I think I could get a new switch to fit easily.

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
I'm sure that's an excellent saw and I don't doubt it's power, but I'm looking at my cordless battery chainsaw and breathing a sigh of relief right now.

That's groovy as all hell with the heated handles though. For the front resistive heating element couldn't you duplicate the resistance of the intact rear element?

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

His Divine Shadow posted:

Is this a thread suitable for talking stuff like chainsaws, brush cutters and other small two-stroke engine stuff?

If so I got this Jonsered 451EV from 1976/77 I am working on:


It's a lovely saw, known for it's durability, there's hardly any plastic on it, aluminium and magnesium construction.

I of course decide to tear it down


Inside the rear handle, it has an electric heating element


The clutch is not screwed on, it's held with a taper like the flywheel on the other side


Generator for the heated handles


Cylinder off


For 40+ years it's not bad I guess, looks like some transfer I guess. I mic'ed the cylinder bore and it's still exactly 42.00mm.



Crank case seals removed and cleaning started:


Will be replacing the piston ring, fuel lines, crank case seals and possibly some other stuff. The heating element for the front handle is gone, dunno what happened to it so I am trying to make a replacement for it, if only I could get someone with a working handle to check the heating filaments resistance.

I've had several parts in the ultrasonic cleaner already and soaked some parts in fuel, I plan to glass bead blast the outside of the cylinder and also the muffler before painting with heat-curing paint.

I took apart the broken switch for the heating element too, I heard this one is rare to find, but it looks super simple, a ball joint really. I think I could make a new one on the lathe. Or just buy a replacement SPST lever switch, I think I could get a new switch to fit easily.



Love to tear down tools!

:hellyeah:

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Uncle Enzo posted:

I'm sure that's an excellent saw and I don't doubt it's power, but I'm looking at my cordless battery chainsaw and breathing a sigh of relief right now.

That's groovy as all hell with the heated handles though. For the front resistive heating element couldn't you duplicate the resistance of the intact rear element?

They're completely different shapes, the rear handle is a much more compact element. I have no idea what the original looked like, but based on the manual I think it's a very long loop of material and not as thick as what's in the rear handle:

shut up blegum
Dec 17, 2008


--->Plastic Lawn<---
Just bought a battery powered lawnmower. Crazy, I know. But it actually works.
However, when I charge the battery I see this:


This means that the battery is defective right?

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


how long has it been off the mower.. it seems like it's indicating the battery is overheated and needs to cool before charging.. take it inside and let it cool down.

shut up blegum
Dec 17, 2008


--->Plastic Lawn<---
That was my first thought too, but it displayed the same thing when I just got it out of the box. I think it displays the yellow fan thingie when the battery is too hot.

EDIT: I'm an idiot/Makita designs weird stuff.
According to this site everything's fine. Solid red light means the battery is below 80%. I think the broken battery icon lights up if the battery actually is defective.

shut up blegum fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Jun 2, 2022

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


shut up blegum posted:

That was my first thought too, but it displayed the same thing when I just got it out of the box. I think it displays the yellow fan thingie when the battery is too hot.

Is it blinking.. the icons make me believe that battery with lightning means it's charging.. so keep it on let it charge. Red+green solid means it's mostly charged, solid green means it's fully done (yellow light means it's maintenance charging). (These are all guesses but are somewhat educated)

Look at you are manual and see what it says abooot the icons.

shut up blegum
Dec 17, 2008


--->Plastic Lawn<---
Thanks for the reply. Suddenly I understand all the lights and dots and stuff. Battery is charging fine it seems.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

shut up blegum posted:

Thanks for the reply. Suddenly I understand all the lights and dots and stuff. Battery is charging fine it seems.

If it makes you feel any better I did the EXACT same thing when I got my first modern Makita charger. Felt like a GD idiot.

America
Apr 26, 2017

To be fair to both of you, that is a pretty lovely display. Why mix normal-use icons with relatively-rare error icons? Why is the whole thing on a reverse diagonal?

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

America posted:

To be fair to both of you, that is a pretty lovely display. Why mix normal-use icons with relatively-rare error icons? Why is the whole thing on a reverse diagonal?

Solid green light means your battery has rhythm and music. Who could ask for anything more?

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I''ve had my makitas and that charger for almost 10 years now, always wondered why the red light shone, but the batteries always charged and worked so I didn't care enough to find out. drat good tools though, DHP458Z drill that's on it's second chuck and the DTD152Z impact. I've use these so much...And the original 4AH batteries are still working, but they are showing their age, time to get new ones was really a few years ago but I'm too cheap.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


America posted:

To be fair to both of you, that is a pretty lovely display. Why mix normal-use icons with relatively-rare error icons? Why is the whole thing on a reverse diagonal?

Yeah it should be like flashing green or someshit. Red usually means bad so I can 100% see the confusion.

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



Speaking of batteries, I have the ryobi 40v mower and trimmer.
My battery reads that it's got 25% charge when I hit the button on the side, but when I toss it in the charger, it reads that it has a full charge and won't charge anymore.
I've left it on the charger for a day to see if it would charge anyway and it didn't do anything. Is this battery dead?

shut up blegum
Dec 17, 2008


--->Plastic Lawn<---

Uncle Enzo posted:

Solid green light means your battery has rhythm and music. Who could ask for anything more?

Apparently there are like 5 different melodies the charger can play to indicate the battery is fully chargee. No I don't know why.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
Just ripped off about 100 feet of old rotten fence panels that were screwed in, plus some gates that were lag bolted on with some pretty massive bolts. My Ryobi impact driver made short work of everything I threw it at, and my Ryobi 18V reciprocating saw made short work of chopping up the panels small enough to fit into the back of a truck to haul off. A++ would buy Ryobi tools again.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Literally A Person posted:

If it makes you feel any better I did the EXACT same thing when I got my first modern Makita charger. Felt like a GD idiot.

Makita cordless designer #1. Well heck, guys. We've built and tweaked the best charging system out there for years. What now?

Makita cordless designer #2. Hold my sapporo.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

AFewBricksShy posted:

Speaking of batteries, I have the ryobi 40v mower and trimmer.
My battery reads that it's got 25% charge when I hit the button on the side, but when I toss it in the charger, it reads that it has a full charge and won't charge anymore.
I've left it on the charger for a day to see if it would charge anyway and it didn't do anything. Is this battery dead?

Most likely that battery is bad, yes. Hit it with a multimeter and the check the voltage and compare to a good battery.

If it's too low the charger should throw an error code and refuse to charge it. If it is low you can jump the bad battery with a good one (not the safest idea).

I guess if it's high it might think it's full and stop charging as well. Could be an issue with the charger.

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Communicating six messages via two LEDs is pretty good.

Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!

The red LED flashes 63 times if the battery is defective and dangerous to be on the charger, and it flashes 64 times if everything is in proper working order.

Squibbles
Aug 24, 2000

Mwaha ha HA ha!
They could save more money by just having 1 led that blinks out morse code to let you know the status

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Blowjob Overtime posted:

The red LED flashes 63 times if the battery is defective and dangerous to be on the charger, and it flashes 64 times if everything is in proper working order.

Do I want to know what it flashing 69 times means? :ohdear:

Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!

Johnny Truant posted:

Do I want to know what it flashing 69 times means? :ohdear:

You have it in the charger backwards

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


FISHMANPET posted:

Just ripped off about 100 feet of old rotten fence panels that were screwed in, plus some gates that were lag bolted on with some pretty massive bolts. My Ryobi impact driver made short work of everything I threw it at, and my Ryobi 18V reciprocating saw made short work of chopping up the panels small enough to fit into the back of a truck to haul off. A++ would buy Ryobi tools again.

Yeah my blade button is brokoen now I gotta pay 30bux, let them send it back wait for a repair and a refund on my 30bux. :( Still would recommend it, I love my sawzall.

~Coxy
Dec 9, 2003

R.I.P. Inter-OS Sass - b.2000AD d.2003AD
I also find the flashing light system on my Hitachi quite bad for something that costs over a hundred bucks.

Fake edit: looks like the new ones are better, with a multi-colour LED with four possible indications.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here
When can we go back to space-age chic and get some sick fins and 27 silver-ringed indicator lights?

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


shut up blegum posted:

Apparently there are like 5 different melodies the charger can play to indicate the battery is fully chargee. No I don't know why.

You can, it's great! I think I'm currently set to a couple bars of Fur Elise.

My understanding is that it's so you can tell whose charger is done at a job site

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

brugroffil posted:

You can, it's great! I think I'm currently set to a couple bars of Fur Elise.

My understanding is that it's so you can tell whose charger is done at a job site

Bingo. I've got 3 chargers and it's nice to know which one is done.

The colors/LEDs aren't that bad. They're certainly better than the GFCI receptacle situation. Is green ok? Red ok? Red means tripped? No light means tripped? Every manufacturer had a different opinion.

Sash!
Mar 16, 2001


Literally A Person posted:

When can we go back to space-age chic and get some sick fins and 27 silver-ringed indicator lights?

I want a lawn mower with an enormous, useless silver cowling on it. Basically make it look like the Rocketeer's rocket pack.

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Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Sash! posted:

I want a lawn mower with an enormous, useless silver cowling on it. Basically make it look like the Rocketeer's rocket pack.

When they make Art deco mowers or ones that resemble the muscle cars of my youth, count me in.

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