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I had all new windows, siding, soffit, and fascia installed a few years ago, poorly, by a bigger company because it came with a warranty as long as I own the house. The caulk around the window trim has failed and I'm getting water in my walls. If the trim was properly made up and installed should this be happening if the caulk separates from the window frame? I need to have them come back out to replace the soffit and fascia that fell off and I'd like to know enough about this to call them out on more of their bullshit. They replaced all the siding once already since they did it and declined to fix the poorly installed window trim and redo the soffit and fascia. Unless I want to take them to court I'm kinda stuck with them. Vinyl windows, vinyl siding, and the trim was aluminum roll bent up on a brake.
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Jun 9, 2022 19:42
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SpeedFreek posted:The caulk around the window trim has failed and I'm getting water in my walls. If the trim was properly made up and installed should this be happening if the caulk separates from the window frame? They should have installed flashing, and if they did so properly you wouldn't have this problem. It's is possible that the trim was so badly fitted that they have to use a much larger than normal amount of caulk to cover the gaps, and this will always result in short lifetimes for the caulk due to shrinkage, but even if water is getting past the trim and caulk it should be dripping down the outside of your walls (behind your siding) because the flashing should be directing it there. Nothing should be leaking inside of your walls period.
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Jun 9, 2022 19:59
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Alright, question again. I tore off all the white board wall the previous owner had thrown up and the half assed trim. My plan is to replace the bottom trim with some different paneling, just something from Lowes, repaint, and do new trim. Nothing crazy, I have access to a miter saw, just some chair rail in the middle, some baseboard, and some quarter round in the corners. Hopefully just make it look nice. Questions: 1. They insulated this with styrofoam. It does get cold down there, but it's a converted garage. Do I need to replace the Styrofoam with proper insulation? 2. Does anyone have any good ideas for what the bottom board should be? What's the general idea between getting something textured v. blank? I was gonna go to Lowes this weekend and just look around since I don't have any experience so suggestions would be appreciated. Color scheme can all change, that's no big deal. Only thing I don't want to mess with is the floor. 3. Anything in these pictures scream "holy poo poo watch out for this" that I just don't have the experience to notice?    
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Jun 10, 2022 13:11
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Styrofoam is appropriate. The foundation is permeable to moisture and fiberglass/rock wool insulation will soak that moisture up and get moldy & mildew. The other option is spray insulation but that’s additional $$ and it’s a bitch to dig through if you gotta do something in the walls. What are you gonna use for a wall? Drywall? E: I asummed it was below grade but if not, you’re not strictly limited to styrofoam. I wouldn’t bother to replace though, it’s fine and I presume the cold comes through the floors anyways BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Jun 10, 2022 |
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Jun 10, 2022 13:47
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If any of that garage is below grade (say, downhill from the driveway) and could ever get wet, consider either using cement board, or mold-resistant drywall. No matter what you put up, leave a minimum 2” gap at the bottom. Cover it with any kind of baseboard; that way, you lose maybe only the base if it gets wet down there. If you use vinyl/Azek as a base, then you don’t even have that to worry about. Other than that, you have a good plan. Leave the styrofoam if it’s solid.
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Jun 10, 2022 15:09
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FizFashizzle posted:
Unless you really love them for some reason, I don’t think either a traditional paneled wainscoting or beadboard would look good here. They don’t match the room’s style or function. The nicest thing to do would be regular drywall beneath the chair rail and just paint it a different color. I wouldn’t go for a big ornate chair rail either, keep it clean to match the headboard.
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Jun 10, 2022 16:15
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PainterofCrap posted:cement board, What, like Durock? That’s too coarse to leave as the finished surface. In my opinion at least
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Jun 10, 2022 17:08
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It’s all at or above grade. ohhyeah posted:Unless you really love them for some reason, I don’t think either a traditional paneled wainscoting or beadboard would look good here. They don’t match the room’s style or function. The nicest thing to do would be regular drywall beneath the chair rail and just paint it a different color. I wouldn’t go for a big ornate chair rail either, keep it clean to match the headboard. Lol I was actually looking at some inexpensive wainscoting on the lowes website. Maybe I’ll try to budget out drywall. I don’t have any experience with this so part of the appeal of panel was wade of installation.
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Jun 10, 2022 17:57
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I had thought the walls above were drywall but it looks like they’re maybe not? Interesting room. You want to try not to clash with either the nice modern bed or the straight angled drop ceiling. If you get something that matches the existing wall and paint it then it’s easier to extend it visually around the headboard wall with just chair rail and paint.
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Jun 10, 2022 18:56
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Whiteboard as a wall material is so odd to my point of view. Isn't whiteboard more expensive than normal drywall? I wonder if it was like... a thing for kids? 'Okay to draw here, because we can just dry-erase it later' kind of thing? Or was it painted, rendering the erasable nature of it useless?
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Jun 10, 2022 19:29
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Bobulus posted:Whiteboard as a wall material is so odd to my point of view. Isn't whiteboard more expensive than normal drywall? I wonder if it was like... a thing for kids? 'Okay to draw here, because we can just dry-erase it later' kind of thing? Or was it painted, rendering the erasable nature of it useless? My guess would be thing for kids, but the comedy option is they needed to finish that part of the wall and somehow came into those panels for free and said gently caress it.
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Jun 10, 2022 19:49
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Bobulus posted:Whiteboard as a wall material is so odd to my point of view. Isn't whiteboard more expensive than normal drywall? I wonder if it was like... a thing for kids? 'Okay to draw here, because we can just dry-erase it later' kind of thing? Or was it painted, rendering the erasable nature of it useless?
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Jun 10, 2022 22:01
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Blowjob Overtime posted:My guess would be thing for kids, but the comedy option is they needed to finish that part of the wall and somehow came into those panels for free and said gently caress it. It'swaya the second one. Or they managed to accidentally buy the whiteboatand said fuckit.
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Jun 11, 2022 04:42
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FizFashizzle posted:Alright, question again. Is that just one layer of styrofoam? If so, you're getting maybe an R4 from it, but your exterior walls should be up around an R13 at the very least.
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Jun 11, 2022 15:11
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Appliance troubleshooting question! After it filled with water, my washing machine decided to make a loud hum and a burning smell instead of spinning this morning. It's an older direct drive Kenmore 80 series. At first I assumed it was the drain pump but I got that out and it's not seized up and doesn't look damaged. I pulled the motor off and the plastic and rubber coupling between the motor and transmission looks good. No broken bits or visible wear. There is a little slack in the plastic adapter on the motor side, like it rotates maybe 10 degrees either way before engaging - I can't tell if it was built that way or worn. Plugging it in (motor sitting out, not connected to transmission or pump) and turning the washer on, set to Spin, the motor hums loudly. When I started rotating the shaft by hand, the motor then kicks in and spins it slowly. I thought it was maybe the centrifugal switch so I hit that with some contact cleaner.  The motor still doesn't start on its own but now seems to go much quicker once it gets going. There isn't a capacitor to change out on this model that I can see. Am I barking up the wrong tree in my assumption that the motor should start spinning when the cycle starts? Maybe I should take sandpaper to the switch since the contact cleaner appeared to have an effect? My multimeter apparently disappeared in my last move, so I don't have one currently but I guess I'll need to buy one if I can't find mine.
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Jun 11, 2022 20:37
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I don't know about your diagnostic theory here (I'd need to look at the manual) but you definitely appear to be on the right track. Did you look at the picture you posted on a larger screen? The contacts on that switch look like poo poo. I'd definitely try cleaning them further and see if the situation improves at all.
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Jun 11, 2022 21:32
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Motronic posted:I don't know about your diagnostic theory here (I'd need to look at the manual) but you definitely appear to be on the right track. Did you look at the picture you posted on a larger screen? The contacts on that switch look like poo poo. I'd definitely try cleaning them further and see if the situation improves at all. Yeah that's the pre-cleaning photo. Post cleaning was much better but still not great. Next step will likely be some very mild sandpaper.
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Jun 11, 2022 21:37
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I have what I assume is a really basic building question. I have a concrete slab garage, poured concrete base with a steel roof. For reasons I want to wood panel the interior. My plan was to affix batons to the floor to put flooring on but I'm wondering what I do about the walls. The walls are precast concrete so might be hard to actually attach anything to. Would building essentially an inside out hut work? So freestanding walls and roof section that I then panel it inside rather than outside. Or is it possible to affix to precast concrete without loving it all up?
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Jun 12, 2022 12:06
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you can frame it like you would a basement, where the top & bottom plate are fastened to ceilng and floor respectively, but not the studs to the walls alternatively, you can fasten "furring strips" to the walls and affix the wood paneling to those. furring strips are like 2" x 1" x 8' and are intended to be fastened to brick/masonry/concrete, so that sheetrock (or in your case, wood panels) have soething to be screwed onto. in either case, you'll need to fasten wood to concrete which isnt a big deal but involves the use of a hammer drill and concrete anchors. Rent a hammer drill, mark and drill the holes, and then use an impact driver to drive the concrete anchors. i'd recommend tapcon screws. Size them so that the screw is at least 1" in the concrete, but no more than 1 3/4" deep
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Jun 12, 2022 13:17
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Could you not use a ramset and fasteners to attach the furring strips to the concrete? May be easier than drilling eleventy holes into it. And may end up being cheaper depending on the number of drill bits you'll need to buy for eleventy holes.
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Jun 12, 2022 13:53
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:you can frame it like you would a basement, where the top & bottom plate are fastened to ceilng and floor respectively, but not the studs to the walls I think my problem is attaching anything to the walls themselves  The walls are precast concrete sheets, probably about an inch thick at most. There is a wooden batton running around the top so perhaps I just attach the studs to that and then to the floor.
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Jun 12, 2022 14:19
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tater_salad posted:Could you not use a ramset and fasteners to attach the furring strips to the concrete? May be easier than drilling eleventy holes into it. And may end up being cheaper depending on the number of drill bits you'll need to buy for eleventy holes. I don't think it's good to use powder actuated fasteners for beginners bc it's that much harder to fix errors/make revisions (and a noob will make errors). They're faster in the hands of a pro, definitely w the screws or other anchors you can just unzip the anchor and redo it. Plus you can unfasten a board from the wall and put it back, etc etc
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Jun 12, 2022 14:29
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JB weld and great stuff foam, obviously.
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Jun 12, 2022 14:53
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Does anyone have a handy source for accurate diagrams and illustrations of simple home structural elements? I’m especially interested in cross-sections just because I grok those most easily. a variety of installation types for each feature would also be helpful. The reason I’m asking: I have a cinderblock foundation on concrete slab garage with an entry door to the backyard that opens onto a poured cement pathway. My hose bib is on the east (right) side of the pathway, and my garden is on the west (left) side. The bib is closed in by this concrete path. To run irrigation to my garden, I’m going to need to get a water line across this cement path somewhere, and my first thought was to put it beneath this threshold across the width of the door, which would span the concrete as far as I need it to.  I just don’t know what’s underneath the metal threshold, and I’m not keen on tearing it out to find concrete beneath it that I can’t cut through, anyway. Hence, cross-sections of various installation configurations, so I can see what I might run into before cracking it open.
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Jun 12, 2022 16:28
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Lawnie posted:I just don’t know what’s underneath the metal threshold, The rest of the door frame, and then your sill plate and then your cinderblock foundation. Does this place have a basement? How about an overall picture from where the hose bib is to where you want it to go? It seems like you're approaching this in a very strange way.
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Jun 12, 2022 16:41
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Ya some more photos would help. You can undo the screws in the threshold and see if you can work it free, but I don’t think it’ll be helpful for you. In short, you need to cross water line from the right side of the photo to the left? And ideally it is hidden/underground? If that’s the case, you could cut a small section from your concrete path (4”-6” wide) lay some 1-2” aluminum conduit and pour new concrete over it. That way you’ll have a little tunnel you can run your water lines through, and you can pull & replace the line if needed I assume the water pressures associated w irrigation wouldn’t make it up much incline otherwise you could run it up & over your door. Easiest but worst option: 
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Jun 12, 2022 17:15
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I had asked about casement A/Cs a few weeks ago. Finally installed it. FUUUUUUUUCK, my dad and I both worked on it. Instructions are garbage, everything is cheap, even for a $500+ unit. At least its working!  Used some Gorilla Glue duct tape to seal it on the inside.
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Jun 12, 2022 21:18
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I got a metal watering can with a small leak where the bottom plate and the walls meet. Which means it leaves a trail of water drops wherever I go when I water stuff and it's annoying to cleanup. I was thinking of putting some glue or something to plug it, but I've got no idea what kind of glue. Other ideas welcome too.
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Jun 12, 2022 22:06
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Deep Dish Fuckfest posted:I got a metal watering can with a small leak where the bottom plate and the walls meet. Which means it leaves a trail of water drops wherever I go when I water stuff and it's annoying to cleanup. I was thinking of putting some glue or something to plug it, but I've got no idea what kind of glue. Other ideas welcome too. JB Weld ought to work OK for filling small gaps on metal. Make sure the surface is clean, and maybe lightly scuff it with sandpaper to make sure you get good adhesion.
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Jun 12, 2022 22:15
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tater_salad posted:Could you not use a ramset and fasteners to attach the furring strips to the concrete? May be easier than drilling eleventy holes into it. And may end up being cheaper depending on the number of drill bits you'll need to buy for eleventy holes. I would use a powder nailer. This is furring strips, if they're not quite perfectly straight you can just ignore it, if they're a lot not straight, enough that you can't get a straight column of nails in your paneling then tear it off and try again. If the nails are sticking out death wheel them off or flat. Or can you cut nails with an oscillating tool? Wear hearing protection in addition to eye protection. They are loud. Want to pre-layout your strips to make sure they're good? A little dab of basically any goo you have on hand should work. Caulk? Why not. Construction adhesive? Work quickly. Keep a level, rag, and rubber mallet on hand. Or snap lines onto the concrete, or draw them with a pencil. Buy a very long (4'+) level from harbor freight.
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Jun 12, 2022 22:36
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Fozzy The Bear posted:I had asked about casement A/Cs a few weeks ago. Finally installed it. FUUUUUUUUCK, my dad and I both worked on it. Instructions are garbage, everything is cheap, even for a $500+ unit. At least its working! Get a better extension cord - don't rely on that cheap power strip so you don't burn your house down.
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Jun 13, 2022 00:42
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Lawnie posted:To run irrigation to my garden, I’m going to need to get a water line across this cement path somewhere. Can you just dig a hole either side of the path a foot out from the house and tunnel under the path? Ideally jam some kind of conduit in there (drain pipe?) and push as much material back around it as you can, but shouldn’t cause too much drama if (big if) the path has any reinforcing at all. I’d certainly feel more comfortable with the water being there rather than in the door threshold.
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Jun 13, 2022 11:49
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:JB Weld ought to work OK for filling small gaps on metal. Make sure the surface is clean, and maybe lightly scuff it with sandpaper to make sure you get good adhesion. Will look into that, thanks.
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Jun 13, 2022 13:33
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Motronic posted:The rest of the door frame, and then your sill plate and then your cinderblock foundation. No basement, the garage is a later addition to the house. Here are some pictures:  Bib is the blue thing on the other side of the... stuff.  The door, threshold, and cement pad to be crossed.  From the door towards the backyard, with the dog and the plants that need watering. There's more pathway to cross, obviously, but there's already a gutter drain line ran underneath it that I was going to just tap into at the soil level.  Orange line is the gutter drain line. It goes down a slight incline, maybe a foot and half or two before coming out at a low point in the yard. Irrigation line can come out somewhere on the other side of the pathway.  Overall view of the yard to be watered. Both slightly raised and in-ground beds. I can measure/estimate square footage if necessary. BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:Ya some more photos would help. You can undo the screws in the threshold and see if you can work it free, but I don’t think it’ll be helpful for you. This is the obvious solution, but I've never personally cut nor poured concrete by myself. I would be comfortable learning and doing it, though, and it's probably about as simple of a job as can be to learn on. I think I like this idea best even though it's probably the biggest pain. The pressure regulator I have for the faucet attachment specifies 25 psi, which (without calculating it) almost certainly isn't going to get over the doorframe in 1/2" irrigation line. If only the threshold were slightly higher than the concrete, I would just build a simple wooden platform to clean shoes and hide the line underneath. It would be too awkward with how flush the threshold already is to the concrete, though. NoSpoon posted:Can you just dig a hole either side of the path a foot out from the house and tunnel under the path? Ideally jam some kind of conduit in there (drain pipe?) and push as much material back around it as you can, but shouldn’t cause too much drama if (big if) the path has any reinforcing at all. I’d certainly feel more comfortable with the water being there rather than in the door threshold. I could dig on either side no problem (FWIW an auger that fits my drill makes this kind of thing super-easy). I wasn't sure how deep I would have to go, whether there would be reinforcement to deal with beneath the concrete, and whether or not the pressure would be enough to make it back up from the necessary depth. I could carefully dig around and see what I find - this might be the easiest solution that hides the line.
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Jun 15, 2022 02:44
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Lawnie posted:I could dig on either side no problem (FWIW an auger that fits my drill makes this kind of thing super-easy). I wasn't sure how deep I would have to go, whether there would be reinforcement to deal with beneath the concrete, and whether or not the pressure would be enough to make it back up from the necessary depth. I could carefully dig around and see what I find - this might be the easiest solution that hides the line. Do that. Run your line below it. It's probably all of 4" deep. You also need a backflow preventer somewhere past the hose bib in the irrigation system and it needs to be higher than the highest emitter on the system. So figure out where that's going to go.
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Jun 15, 2022 02:50
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Motronic posted:Do that. Run your line below it. It's probably all of 4" deep. There’s one in the faucet attachment kit. Thanks, I wasn’t sure if I was going to find 4 more inches of gravel and/or sand beneath the concrete.
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Jun 15, 2022 03:45
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Lawnie posted:I wasn’t sure if I was going to find 4 more inches of gravel and/or sand beneath the concrete. You should (at least a couple inches of 3/4" clean stone) if it was done properly and that will make for very easy digging just below the slab to run your line.
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Jun 15, 2022 03:48
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So I have a vent outside my house that should look like this: But now it looks like this:  So it used to be held in place with 6 screws, but over a few weeks/months I removed and put back on this vent so many times (in the course of trying to solve another problem) that the screw holes became loose. At first it was just one corner that a screw kept falling out of, but eventually it became almost all of them. I duct-taped it, which held for a short while, but now that's not working anymore. The board it's screwing onto is about as thick as cardboard and not much stiffer. I could maybe try some anchors, but I don't think it'll have much to hold onto. Someone else suggested glue, but I'd like a less permanent solution, i.e. one where I can remove and put back on this vent. Oh, and there's very little access from the attic -- it's pretty cramped back there. What should I try next to keep this thing from flapping in the wind and maybe inviting some insects/rodents in? Ideas and suggestions welcome!
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Jun 15, 2022 06:06
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Jam a bunch of toothpicks into the existing holes, trim flush, reinstall screws.
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Jun 15, 2022 06:33
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Bigger screws, or drill new holes in the vent for screws in different locations.
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Jun 15, 2022 11:14
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