|
VelociBacon posted:It's better than the vomit yellow/green that's also on there. I dunno if I love either but it's your place you should do what keeps your marriage intact. Agreed with this guy…. Not the samples I would have chosen but your life is your life and you only get one
|
# ? Jun 20, 2022 21:41 |
|
|
# ? May 30, 2024 11:20 |
|
I enjoy turquoise
|
# ? Jun 20, 2022 21:43 |
|
NomNomNom posted:Content: I dunno, the turquoise feels too close to public pool facility/beachside changing rooms for my liking. Personally, I'd go with green, but not the green you have - it's a bit on the olive/army surplus/barf side. I'd suggest testing out greens more in the vicinity of mint/sage/celadon.
|
# ? Jun 20, 2022 21:55 |
|
I like the turquoise a lot but I think the entire side being turquoise might turn into a bit much for the eyes
|
# ? Jun 20, 2022 21:57 |
|
NomNomNom posted:Someone else can chime in too, but chances are there are metal lally columns inside the brick columns. Bricks are just for show. Least that's how it's made in my neck of the woods. I like the turquoise a lot. More bright colors imo.
|
# ? Jun 20, 2022 21:59 |
|
DoubleT2172 posted:I like the turquoise a lot but I think the entire side being turquoise might turn into a bit much for the eyes I think using a color to give pop would be great, but the whole wall might wind up being very bright. What are you going to do with the trim? Door? And that barfy chartreuse is not the right color.
|
# ? Jun 20, 2022 22:00 |
|
H110Hawk posted:I think using a color to give pop would be great, but the whole wall might wind up being very bright. What are you going to do with the trim? Door? I think some form of gray as a main color and the turquoise as the window/door color would make it really pop
|
# ? Jun 20, 2022 22:10 |
|
I had a turquoise house for 18 years, and it made me really, really happy every time I pulled into the driveway. Upsides: * Happiness * Giving directions that ended with "It's the bright blue house on the right, you can't miss it." Downsides: * The neighbors that interrupted our dinner asking if the house was going to stay that color 24 hours after we'd finished painting it, and wouldn't go away until we told them to. Before we sold it, we painted it a neutral because we knew our tastes are unusual. e: White woodwork and trim.
|
# ? Jun 20, 2022 22:16 |
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:I had a turquoise house for 18 years, and it made me really, really happy every time I pulled into the driveway. That's amazing and I would hate to have neighbors like that. My neighbors just kinda cold stare in my direction which is how I like it
|
# ? Jun 20, 2022 22:42 |
|
Yeah the plan is just this back patio wall. The rest of the house is unpainted brick. You might say it's business in the front... And a party in the back Yeah all the trim will just stay white. We're also planning on adding some accent stripes with sunset colors, orange, red, yellow.
|
# ? Jun 20, 2022 23:41 |
|
NomNomNom posted:Yeah the plan is just this back patio wall. The rest of the house is unpainted brick. You might say it's business in the front... Show us the results! Get to painting! Also I would hit that with some primer, at least in the areas that now have darker tinted paint. And a pressure washer.
|
# ? Jun 20, 2022 23:42 |
|
After having a ranch that resembled that in Colorado I would honestly leave it as is, clean it, and accent it with colors (door trim, window trim, furniture, shade sails, plants, etc.). Making that whole wall turquoise would be overwhelming, though I suppose some stripes would help.
Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Jun 21, 2022 |
# ? Jun 20, 2022 23:57 |
|
My mom’s garage has an open ceiling. There’s a bunch of vents in the eaves and one gable vent. Currently it’s not well insulated. Would a gable fan do much to cool it down a bit when it’s really hot out?
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 01:31 |
|
I know very little about plumbing but the previous owner redid the downstairs half bath. To me this looks janky as poo poo, but maybe because I’ve never seen it before (flex pipe, using some kind of thread pvc instead of pvc cement). Thoughts?
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 01:44 |
|
nwin posted:I know very little about plumbing but the previous owner redid the downstairs half bath. To me this looks janky as poo poo, but maybe because I’ve never seen it before (flex pipe, using some kind of thread pvc instead of pvc cement). I'm no plumber either but that looks shoddy. You could easily use regular PVC and have more durable pipes/connections that aren't going to trap stuff in the riffles. That looks like someone didn't feel like taking another trip to the hardware store.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 01:49 |
|
My home inspector found those in the kitchen and upstairs bathroom and said to get rid of them sooner than later since they tend to be kind of fragile and clog easy. Still haven’t done it though.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 01:52 |
|
nwin posted:I know very little about plumbing but the previous owner redid the downstairs half bath. To me this looks janky as poo poo, but maybe because I’ve never seen it before (flex pipe, using some kind of thread pvc instead of pvc cement). Oh my god what This just needs an extender piece between the sink bottom and the trap and it’ll be a straight shot into the wall. They’re like $0.50 and can be cut to size
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 01:52 |
|
Casimir Radon posted:My home inspector found those in the kitchen and upstairs bathroom and said to get rid of them sooner than later since they tend to be kind of fragile and clog easy. Still haven’t done it though. Yeah our new house has a couple (although not exactly... That) and inspector said the same thing. Get rid of.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 01:58 |
|
Tiny Timbs posted:Oh my god what Yeah this is a $10, half-hour solution to a $.50, 5 minute problem.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 02:17 |
|
Tiny Timbs posted:Oh my god what Again-not a plumber-but the sink drain is like 1” to the right of the wall pipe. Would your idea still work? Thinking of just throwing this on a list to have a plumber fix, along with installing 1/4 turn valves on all the toilets and bibs instead of those loving needle valves. I tried looking up how to do it, but I have no idea if I have a threaded or soldered or compressed setup on any of my supply lines and I don’t want to spend a day trying to get one of them correct.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 02:29 |
|
nwin posted:(flex pipe, using some kind of thread pvc instead of pvc cement). The flex pipe: janky as gently caress and gross, imagine everything that's stuck in each and every one of those accordions Non-cemented joints: this is actually normal for drains because they aren't holding any real pressure. It just needs to not leak under gravity-fed water and that can be done with basic finger-tightened compression fittings.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 02:29 |
|
I know that accordion pipe is flexible now but it gets shockingly brittle. Get rid of it. Threaded PVC for the trap is the way to go. Eventually you'll have to open it up to retrieve something you've dropped down it or clear a clog, and it's much better to unscrew something than have to cut it and cement new parts on.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 02:36 |
|
I've got an inside wall that sits against my garage wall, which is ~6-8" of concrete. In the garage the outlets are all 1/4" conduit and metal boxes. I'd like to run a new outlet inside the garage, and also drill a hole from the inside wall through the inside wall and concrete into the garage and run a cat6 jack into there too... Idk I think I'm going to call an electrician for this one for some reason. I feel perfectly comfortable changing out an existing outlet box for a new one, but there's something about running a new box and messing with metal conduit that crossed the "diy or nah" line for me. El Mero Mero fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Jun 21, 2022 |
# ? Jun 21, 2022 05:54 |
|
El Mero Mero posted:I've got an inside wall that sits against my garage wall, which is ~6-8" of concrete. In the garage the outlets are all 1/4" conduit and metal boxes. I'd like to run a new outlet inside the garage, and also drill a hole from the inside wall through the inside wall and concrete into the garage and run a cat6 jack into there too... just use bx cable, even if its not to code in your area who cares. if you've swapped an outlet box out you can totally install anew one the cat6 isn't a big deal either, just rent a 1" rotohammer with appropriate sized bit. don't fall into Big Electric's trap!!! BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK fucked around with this message at 12:21 on Jun 21, 2022 |
# ? Jun 21, 2022 12:18 |
|
nwin posted:Again-not a plumber-but the sink drain is like 1” to the right of the wall pipe. Would your idea still work? You have some wiggle room because you can rotate things and everything is just screwed together. If the angle is still too harsh then the hardware store will have every combination of hard-walled fittings you'd need to get it to work. My approach is to just buy everything I could conceivably need and then return what I don't use.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 12:41 |
Tiny Timbs posted:
Or throw it in that one drawer in the garage with every other left over fitting. Then forget to look in said drawer until after the job is done and find that 3/4" street elbow that you bought a spare for because you knew you didn't have one.
|
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 13:04 |
|
So I’m looking at setting up a shed on our tiny urban lot to hold up to 4-5 bikes/strollers/outdoor equipment. I’m trying to figure out the minimum footprint to suit our needs, and it looks like the sizes we need will only fit on our patio space if it’s not located right up against the house. First off- a wood shed right up against our vinyl siding is a bad idea, right? I feel like we’d be shooting ourselves in the foot with maintenance, and it’s really pushing the code re: property line clearance. (Our high density plot is basically against modern zoning if it weren’t grandfathered in) Second- is a a heavy wooden shed on PT skids on a concrete ‘brick’ paver patio ok? I wouldn’t worry about a resin or galvanized steel shed on them, but the weight of a real wood shed makes me think twice. If it sinks a little over time, the grade would still be away from the house.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 13:08 |
|
e: whoops
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 13:57 |
|
BadSamaritan posted:So I’m looking at setting up a shed on our tiny urban lot to hold up to 4-5 bikes/strollers/outdoor equipment. I’m trying to figure out the minimum footprint to suit our needs, and it looks like the sizes we need will only fit on our patio space if it’s not located right up against the house. I just put up a 8x10 shed for bikes and kid stuff and it filled up really really fast. I still think it's a good size, it has: - 3 adult bikes - A radioflyer wagon - Full-sized stroller - 2 seater stroller - Kid's balance bike - Kid's tricycle - Kid's scooter - Umbrella stroller - some left over vinyl fencing - an outdoor drink cooler end table thing So it can fit a lot, but I think that has it about maxed out. I put up a plastic shed-in-a-box which probably won't have the longevity you'd get out of a proper shed, but I was looking for something I was comfortable putting up myself and wasn't going to pay covid-pricing.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 15:50 |
|
3 days in the new house that we bought sans inspection. Still had an inspector come out to check on things and he's preparing his report. We got lucky with this guy, he spent like 6 hours here and was more thorough than I'd ever seen from anyone else. Hes a retired general contractor that just does this part time now. He mentioned a few things that I knew had to be done and am trying to figure out the best approach too. First on my list is that there is no bathroom vent. I'm hesitant to drill a hole in the side of my stucco house or into the roof. I have easy access to the bathroom ceiling from the attic and would be OK installing it and wiring it I think, but going to try and get someone out here to do that. Or am I being to wimpy about drilling out a vent hole? I'm a moderate DIYer, and use to do a lot of low voltage coax and ethernet work but that was 10+ years ago. Second, and most concerning to me is the garage. Its only 2 years old, permits were pulled and it apparently passed inspection but it has something so loving weird I cant wrap my head around it. The rear wall of the garage, facing the neighbors property approximately 3-4 feet from the property line, is 5/8 drywall with exterior siding, and thats it. All the other walls in the garage are regular OSB, framed normally, etc. If I go outside and feel the little lip over the foundation on that side I get drywall dust on my fingers. WTF. I'm debating trying to tear that down in the small gap between the property line and putting up OSB, or trying to seal that outside up somehow.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 16:23 |
|
BaseballPCHiker posted:The rear wall of the garage, facing the neighbors property approximately 3-4 feet from the property line, is 5/8 drywall with exterior siding, and thats it. No... Framing? What does the permit say? What's the siding made out of? Pictures? As described I'm imaging literally a single sheet of 5/8 with nothing supporting it and some vinyl nailed clean through it.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 16:42 |
|
Load bearing drywall is a thing we've seen here before.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 16:44 |
|
Motronic posted:Load bearing drywall is a thing we've seen here before. This is what I am hoping to witness.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 16:51 |
|
H110Hawk posted:This is what I am hoping to witness.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 16:54 |
|
Back of the garage, faces north the fence is the property line. Yeah.... Inside, drywall all the way up. Corner shot. At least they used 5/8ths I guess. God loving damnit.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 16:59 |
|
It could be garbling on code. When I built my garage and got a zoning variance to build 3’ from the property line instead of 6’, one of the requirements on the rear wall was that the sheathing on the rear elevation and for 4’ on the roof sheathing, had to be capable of 1-hour burn-through, meaning that it had to resist burning through for an hour of fire. I had to spend a ton on fire-rated 3/4” roof sheathing along the rear 4’ and the rear elevation required 5/8” drywall - although I sandwiched it between 5/8” sheathing and T1-11. Drywall, especially 5/8, is good for fire protection. Although they appear to have forgotten the sheathing…
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 17:02 |
|
PainterofCrap posted:It could be garbling on code. When I built my garage and got a zoning variance to build 3’ from the property line instead of 6’, one of the requirements on the rear wall was that the sheathing on the rear elevation and for 4’ on the roof sheathing, had to be capable of 1-hour burn-through, meaning that it had to resist burning through for an hour of fire. I had to spend a ton on fire-rated 3/4” roof sheathing along the rear 4’ and the rear elevation required 5/8” drywall - although I sandwiched it between 5/8” sheathing and T1-11. Yup. Almost guaranteed it's this being done for that exact reason. It's fine right up until it falls apart. I wouldn't bother doing anything until then. Its far enough off the ground that it's not getting soaked and it appears to be in good condition. This is likely a "next decade" problem.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 17:23 |
|
That siding looks like a composite product which doesn't require sheathing. It's weird that the drywall is on the outside though.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 17:30 |
|
OK, my thought was it was due to fire resistance and they had to get some sort of variance in order to get the garage built there. Worth trying to seal up the bottom with something at least? That area will get plenty of snow this year.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 17:31 |
|
|
# ? May 30, 2024 11:20 |
|
BaseballPCHiker posted:First on my list is that there is no bathroom vent. I'm hesitant to drill a hole in the side of my stucco house or into the roof. I have easy access to the bathroom ceiling from the attic and would be OK installing it and wiring it I think, but going to try and get someone out here to do that. Or am I being to wimpy about drilling out a vent hole? I'm a moderate DIYer, and use to do a lot of low voltage coax and ethernet work but that was 10+ years ago. I don't know nothing 'bout drilling no holes, but one thing to consider when installing a bathroom vent is if you want it on the same switch as the bathroom light, or if you want a separate switch. When I installed mine, I had the lights and fan on separate switches, but family members (myself included) would often forget to turn on the fan when taking a shower, so the bathroom would completely steam up. I decided to "solve" this problem by replacing the dual switch with a single one and wiring the fan and light to the same switch. That solved the problem of forgetting to turn the fan on, but now if you need to air out the bathroom after a poo poo or a shower, you have the door closed with the light on and are always wondering if somebody is in there, or if it is just being aired out. Local codes my dictate you do it a certain way, though.
|
# ? Jun 21, 2022 17:43 |