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Rexxed posted:I'd consider an all metal hotend if you're printing high temperature materials a lot. They're not too expensive and the bowden tube attaches at the top so it doesn't get hot. They have a metal heat break between the bowden tube and the back of the nozzle so the PTFE won't break down since it's cool enough past the heatsink on the hotend. PTFE overheating and breaking down isn't just bad for the printer longevity but also because it can cause toxic fumes. Wouldn't the toxic fumes be sort of a moot point since the melting ABS filament gives off plenty of its own? Or is PTFE next level bad news? Not sure if this one is all metal or not, but it's what I recently bought/installed: simple but special. Nerobro posted:
Thanks, I will give that a go in slicer settings next one I do! If it makes a difference, I'm doing these at 100% infill (if light can get through it then it's not going to work out well for my film/plates).
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# ? Jun 26, 2022 07:16 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 18:01 |
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Wouldn't the toxic fumes be sort of a moot point since the melting ABS filament gives off plenty of its own? Or is PTFE next level bad news? ABS is styrene. Not great, but a break from it and you'll be fine. PTFE, you're running the chance of polymer fume fever. That's not the worst, heat the teflon enough you'll kill birds and rodents quickly and risk permanent lung damage.
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# ? Jun 26, 2022 08:37 |
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Wouldn't the toxic fumes be sort of a moot point since the melting ABS filament gives off plenty of its own? Or is PTFE next level bad news? PTFE is on a whole other level since it's in a group of PFAS chemicals which have a number of problematic issues: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W74aeuqsiU https://chemsec.org/the-teflon-chemical-ptfe-is-often-touted-as-a-safe-cousin-of-toxic-pfas-but-is-it-really/ I picked up this all metal hotend about 18 months ago and it's been pretty good even if it's not micro-swiss quality https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B089YV5KNQ/
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# ? Jun 26, 2022 11:58 |
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Wouldn't the toxic fumes be sort of a moot point since the melting ABS filament gives off plenty of its own? Or is PTFE next level bad news? That’s a normal style hot end.
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# ? Jun 26, 2022 15:05 |
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Wouldn't the toxic fumes be sort of a moot point since the melting ABS filament gives off plenty of its own? Or is PTFE next level bad news? Next level bad news, as has been pointed out. Is there a particular reason you're printing ABS by the way? The fumes won't kill you but they're not good for you either and they sure stink up the place. PETG is much more pleasant to print once you dial in the retraction and fan imo.
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# ? Jun 26, 2022 15:43 |
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Heads up, something important I just learned is that even if you replace the bed springs on your Ender 3 v2 with the yellow ones, if you leave the thing sitting for months and then go to do a print, you should still tram the bed. I thought something was wrong with the bed heater.
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# ? Jun 26, 2022 17:49 |
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Wouldn't the toxic fumes be sort of a moot point since the melting ABS filament gives off plenty of its own? Or is PTFE next level bad news? Yes, 100% infill doesn't usually work, for lots of reasons. Set it to 97% and it'll work better. No, that hot end is not all metal. Yes, PTFE is that much worse. But you're not acutally hot enough to make PTFE fumes.
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# ? Jun 26, 2022 18:39 |
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:PETG is much more pleasant to print once you dial in the retraction and fan imo. Speaking of, can anyone recommend a good systematic approach to reducing stringing with PETG? Like, a good test print and adjustments I can try to hone in on a less stringy configuration? A lot of the advice I've seen online is contradictory, so I guess it's something that varies a fair bit by filament and printer. I can mostly just clean up with a scalpel, sandpaper and a heat gun but it'd be great if I didn't have to.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 00:40 |
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You can't win, there will be strings. Extrusion multiplier, temperature/cooling, retraction. I'd say all three of those are equally important to tune. Then you get in to the warping & adhesion issues, if the part starts lifting (flat/ wide /square) you'll get pile-up on random layers or catching that can even fail your print and just yank it off the build plate. Then you need to make sure not to print too fast or sparse, so your infill doesn't pillow or droop. Printing PETG is like ABS lite. It's easier but everything you do to print ABS better improves your skill/success ratio at PETG.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 02:37 |
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big scary monsters posted:Speaking of, can anyone recommend a good systematic approach to reducing stringing with PETG? Like, a good test print and adjustments I can try to hone in on a less stringy configuration? A lot of the advice I've seen online is contradictory, so I guess it's something that varies a fair bit by filament and printer. I can mostly just clean up with a scalpel, sandpaper and a heat gun but it'd be great if I didn't have to. I tune temperature to get the best tradeoff between layer bonding and stringing. Retract is secondary to that. The biggest thing was going to a direct drive extruder with very short filament path and the mosquito hot end. I think the mosquito hot end helps due to the very good heat break and fairly short melt zone. 200 fixture plate plugs printed in PETG. You can see there is minimal stringing and they pretty much just wiped off.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 03:05 |
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big scary monsters posted:Speaking of, can anyone recommend a good systematic approach to reducing stringing with PETG? Like, a good test print and adjustments I can try to hone in on a less stringy configuration? A lot of the advice I've seen online is contradictory, so I guess it's something that varies a fair bit by filament and printer. I can mostly just clean up with a scalpel, sandpaper and a heat gun but it'd be great if I didn't have to. I never got great petg prints out of a bowden setup, but once I switched to a direct drive it was fine. You'll always have wispy strings but it's much more manageable.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 04:50 |
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The "i'm a jerk answer" is: Print in ABS. Yeah, PETG is just gonna string.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 05:44 |
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ZincBoy posted:I tune temperature to get the best tradeoff between layer bonding and stringing. Retract is secondary to that. The biggest thing was going to a direct drive extruder with very short filament path and the mosquito hot end. I think the mosquito hot end helps due to the very good heat break and fairly short melt zone. Pretty much this: A high quality DD extruder and good hotend and you can easily print PETG without stringing.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 05:55 |
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IIRC Teaching Tech is a profesisonal engineer. Ever wonder why things are ~screwed~ from the factory? this guy... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwLlKMETvq4&t=483s "because you can't tension the fishing line".. when it's clearly printing the shape of the teeth of the drive pulley. *bashes head on desk* Yes, I was hate watching this.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 07:30 |
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Thanks for all the replies on PETG stringing. I'll play some more with temperature and retraction but I'm not ready to try to convert my Mini+ to direct drive so I guess I won't put away the hot air gun just yet.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 15:03 |
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You can totally get good petg prints from a bowden, it just takes a lot of temp and retraction tuning.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 16:07 |
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I feel guilty now. I've only done two PETG prints, but both of them came out just fine with no twiddling or tweaking.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 17:52 |
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cruft posted:I feel guilty now. I've only done two PETG prints, but both of them came out just fine with no twiddling or tweaking. Good! Sometimes you get lucky. Another thing that doesn't get enough attention, is PETG gets wet. Dry PETG snots/slobbers/strings a lot less.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 18:11 |
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I miss PETT filament for that very reason. It gave no fucks about moisture.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 19:03 |
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Building a filament dryer out of a food dehydrator was the best thing I ever did for printing PETG. Bone dry PETG doesn't really string any worse than other filaments. You'll still get little fine wisps but those are easily removed with a heatgun. I have found that first layer height and flow rate needs to be near perfect to avoid material building up on the nozzle, burning, and eventually dripping off on to your work. Clear PETG is probably my favorite material next to ASA but a spot of burnt gunk in the middle of the part can really bum you out.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 19:12 |
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Sauer posted:Building a filament dryer out of a food dehydrator was the best thing I ever did for printing PETG. Bone dry PETG doesn't really string any worse than other filaments. You'll still get little fine wisps but those are easily removed with a heatgun. I have found that first layer height and flow rate needs to be near perfect to avoid material building up on the nozzle, burning, and eventually dripping off on to your work. Clear PETG is probably my favorite material next to ASA but a spot of burnt gunk in the middle of the part can really bum you out. I solved this to some extent with a polished stainless steel nozzle.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 19:42 |
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Was having some issues with bed adhesion (glass bed) and don't have time to really dive into things this week, so broke out the glue stick. Worked a treat, as did backing off infill to 90%, the resulting board looks more or less perfect. I used to have trouble getting the glue off with isopropyl and a paper towel, but adding in a metal scraper between those steps makes it a breeze. I tore the silicone sock when I was taking it off to clean off some goobers from a failed print earlier (still usable, just annoying), so went on AliExpress to look for some more. Wound up buying the Creality direct drive since it was on sale for AUD35 and seems to have very positive reviews on Amazon, so that'll give me something to do when I get back. Sauer posted:Building a filament dryer out of a food dehydrator was the best thing I ever did for printing PETG. Bone dry PETG doesn't really string any worse than other filaments. You'll still get little fine wisps but those are easily removed with a heatgun. I have found that first layer height and flow rate needs to be near perfect to avoid material building up on the nozzle, burning, and eventually dripping off on to your work. Clear PETG is probably my favorite material next to ASA but a spot of burnt gunk in the middle of the part can really bum you out. I am thinking about getting a dedicated one - my partner is none to keen for me to have reels of filament in our oven, and I still haven't gotten around to finding a tupperware I can flip over and use to cover the spool at the top of my enclosure.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 21:17 |
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I've been looking into making a heated vacuum chamber, since i already have a cheap 2 stage vacuum pump (now something like $50, they used to be way more expensive 10 yrs ago) and a pressure pot. And honestly, the $150 resin degassing kits on ebay are a great value. If only I didn't need just the acrylic lid. Add a little seat warmer or terrarium heater and you've got a serious bzness dryer.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 21:49 |
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First, anyone who went to MRRF: https://twitter.com/3dpNero/status/1541484671682461700?s=20&t=ntyw-kbRbO_F5QRWgnwqHg Yeah, that pandemic.. it ain't over. Dr. Fishopolis posted:I solved this to some extent with a polished stainless steel nozzle. You solved it by having a cold spot in your heat path? Or are you suggesting that the polished nozzle didn't pick up anything to turn into a burnt snot blob? Vaporware posted:I've been looking into making a heated vacuum chamber, since i already have a cheap 2 stage vacuum pump (now something like $50, they used to be way more expensive 10 yrs ago) and a pressure pot. Seems to be a lot of work when a little PTC heater would do the job for a dozen watts as opposed to hundreds.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 21:57 |
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Nerobro posted:First, anyone who went to MRRF: https://twitter.com/3dpNero/status/1541484671682461700?s=20&t=ntyw-kbRbO_F5QRWgnwqHg LMAO I'm like 90% sure he or someone he spoke to made a joke about it on his live stream from there. Might have just been a mask joke.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 22:15 |
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Nerobro posted:First, anyone who went to MRRF: The phrase "convention cough" wasn't invented a decade ago in a vaccum Covid cases this summer are just as high as they were last summer, and we're not even counting all the cases unreported by home test kits #1, 2 3 locations to get covid are restaurants,weddings and conventions N95 masks are super cheap and last forever, can be bought at any big box hardware store. The 3M auras are super comfortable for up to 8 hours Hadlock fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Jun 27, 2022 |
# ? Jun 27, 2022 22:16 |
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Nerobro posted:Seems to be a lot of work when a little PTC heater would do the job for a dozen watts as opposed to hundreds. I've never spec'd a PTC heater, and I was just going to heat the chamber wall rather than the air inside, since I'm pumping that out. I suppose you can alternate heating the contents, soak temperature then pump down and hold vacuum without heating. Looks cool if I can figure out how they work.
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 22:33 |
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Vaporware posted:I've never spec'd a PTC heater, and I was just going to heat the chamber wall rather than the air inside, since I'm pumping that out. I suppose you can alternate heating the contents, soak temperature then pump down and hold vacuum without heating. Looks cool if I can figure out how they work. I'm suggesting "just heat" not "heat and pump".
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# ? Jun 27, 2022 22:37 |
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Nerobro posted:You solved it by having a cold spot in your heat path? Or are you suggesting that the polished nozzle didn't pick up anything to turn into a burnt snot blob? The latter. I've found that stainless takes maybe another minute to heat up but otherwise behaves pretty much the same as brass, except it's much less sticky.
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# ? Jun 28, 2022 02:58 |
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Ethics_Gradient posted:
Glue stick comes right off with hot water and liquid dish soap. Hell even just hot water will melt it right off.
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# ? Jun 28, 2022 03:04 |
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I have been enjoying my Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K, but it needed a film replacement. Luckily, I had one to hand. After I changed it, I went to go order a new nFEP film from their web site, and was greeted with... What in the actual gently caress? $70 shipping for two pieces of film in a cardboard tube? Is there a good alternative to buy that's big enough for this Mega? I think it says 310 x 220mm nFEP film.
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# ? Jun 28, 2022 04:13 |
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Is $400 for a slightly used Kelant S400s (plus a bunch of resin and some other bullshit) real cheap and good?
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# ? Jun 28, 2022 07:26 |
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Wrr posted:Is $400 for a slightly used Kelant S400s (plus a bunch of resin and some other bullshit) real cheap and good? Found this review for it on Amazon quote:Good idea but poor design. Sounds pretty damning?
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# ? Jun 28, 2022 11:14 |
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Yeah, steer clear of Kelant. They're just not great machines in general. It obviously wouldn't be a turnkey package with materials and tools, but if you're looking for a larger format printer, less than $400 will buy you either an Anycubic Mono X or an original Elegoo Saturn these days. Each of those is a solid machine with good support and a well-established user base. They've both been superseded by newer models, but they're also both still modern monochrome printers and are smokin' good deals at those prices.
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# ? Jun 28, 2022 13:00 |
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more 3d printed bong accessories. got tired of holding the induction heater, made a mount for it that's really solid (in blue petg) (the sock is TPU) e: also, petg chat, I print almost exclusively petg now if I can help it, with a (all metal) v6 hotend and bowden tube, in 60% humidity in the southeast. Reducing retraction speed to 45 or so, tuning retraction distance (using the tower generator in superslicer) to a bit over 3, and enabling wipes have pretty much made it a string-free experience for me in practice, w/ heatgun grade fuzz here and there at the worst. I have more problems with PLA now, since upgrading to the v6 hotend and getting petg dialed in, and can go almost twice as fast in petg with absolutely no issues. My filament also lives in sealed homer buckets with silica pellets, and whenever it's out it's in one of those heated dry boxes, which at 55C isn't really hot enough to bake wet petg dry, but it's plenty to keep dry filament dry while it's in use. So far so good. e: also if someone wants a recc for cheap petg I am on my second color of TPOIMNS filament for $17 and it might as well be the esun stuff I was using before, I can't tell any difference ee: Here's a comparison of a part printed w/ a spool of filament I accidentally left out in the room for 2 weeks compared to one from a new spool. The blue one was printed w/ different settings on a bigger nozzle, but you can see how much of a loving mess the green one is. And the blue one has better definition around the teeth, etc. despite coming out of a .8 nozzle (right print was cancelled btw) poverty goat fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Jun 28, 2022 |
# ? Jun 28, 2022 13:32 |
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Harvey Baldman posted:I have been enjoying my Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K, but it needed a film replacement. Luckily, I had one to hand. After I changed it, I went to go order a new nFEP film from their web site, and was greeted with... It’s because phrozen STILL doesn’t have a US distribution hub and ships everything directly from China. It’s stupid. Whoops I lied. I forgot I got extra when I pre-ordered. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Jun 28, 2022 |
# ? Jun 28, 2022 14:18 |
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Hmmm. One of our vacuums died but the motor still works. Any fun stuff I could make out of it? I already have a big air filtration system. Paint booth, maybe? I think it might be too fast to make a curing rotation table.
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# ? Jun 28, 2022 23:52 |
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You can always just print out reduction gears and make it into a multi-year project that costs twenty times more than outright buying a professionally designed device.
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# ? Jun 29, 2022 00:08 |
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poverty goat posted:more 3d printed bong accessories. got tired of holding the induction heater, made a mount for it that's really solid (in blue petg) (the sock is TPU) Nice I like that a lot. I need to get a device like that, how do you like it? If it's good can you post that stl too, I may have to adapt it~
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# ? Jun 29, 2022 22:39 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 18:01 |
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Found an article about strange layer lines and I thought it would be interesting to some of you too. The thing I printed was a puzzlebox with a labyrinth on the inside which fits the requirements for this kind of "error", I wish I had known about it sooner because I wasted so much time on it. https://help.prusa3d.com/article/the-benchy-hull-line_124745
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# ? Jun 30, 2022 15:26 |