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Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

Rexxed posted:

I'd consider an all metal hotend if you're printing high temperature materials a lot. They're not too expensive and the bowden tube attaches at the top so it doesn't get hot. They have a metal heat break between the bowden tube and the back of the nozzle so the PTFE won't break down since it's cool enough past the heatsink on the hotend. PTFE overheating and breaking down isn't just bad for the printer longevity but also because it can cause toxic fumes.

Wouldn't the toxic fumes be sort of a moot point since the melting ABS filament gives off plenty of its own? Or is PTFE next level bad news?

Not sure if this one is all metal or not, but it's what I recently bought/installed: simple but special.

Nerobro posted:


You're overextruding a bit. And you could probally use another top layer.

Thanks, I will give that a go in slicer settings next one I do!

If it makes a difference, I'm doing these at 100% infill (if light can get through it then it's not going to work out well for my film/plates).

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snail
Sep 25, 2008

CHEESE!

Ethics_Gradient posted:

Wouldn't the toxic fumes be sort of a moot point since the melting ABS filament gives off plenty of its own? Or is PTFE next level bad news?

ABS is styrene. Not great, but a break from it and you'll be fine. PTFE, you're running the chance of polymer fume fever. That's not the worst, heat the teflon enough you'll kill birds and rodents quickly and risk permanent lung damage.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Ethics_Gradient posted:

Wouldn't the toxic fumes be sort of a moot point since the melting ABS filament gives off plenty of its own? Or is PTFE next level bad news?

Not sure if this one is all metal or not, but it's what I recently bought/installed: simple but special.

Thanks, I will give that a go in slicer settings next one I do!

If it makes a difference, I'm doing these at 100% infill (if light can get through it then it's not going to work out well for my film/plates).

PTFE is on a whole other level since it's in a group of PFAS chemicals which have a number of problematic issues:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W74aeuqsiU

https://chemsec.org/the-teflon-chemical-ptfe-is-often-touted-as-a-safe-cousin-of-toxic-pfas-but-is-it-really/

I picked up this all metal hotend about 18 months ago and it's been pretty good even if it's not micro-swiss quality
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B089YV5KNQ/

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Ethics_Gradient posted:

Wouldn't the toxic fumes be sort of a moot point since the melting ABS filament gives off plenty of its own? Or is PTFE next level bad news?

Not sure if this one is all metal or not, but it's what I recently bought/installed: simple but special.


That’s a normal style hot end.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Ethics_Gradient posted:

Wouldn't the toxic fumes be sort of a moot point since the melting ABS filament gives off plenty of its own? Or is PTFE next level bad news?

Next level bad news, as has been pointed out. Is there a particular reason you're printing ABS by the way? The fumes won't kill you but they're not good for you either and they sure stink up the place. PETG is much more pleasant to print once you dial in the retraction and fan imo.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Heads up, something important I just learned is that even if you replace the bed springs on your Ender 3 v2 with the yellow ones, if you leave the thing sitting for months and then go to do a print, you should still tram the bed.

I thought something was wrong with the bed heater. :cripes:

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Ethics_Gradient posted:

Wouldn't the toxic fumes be sort of a moot point since the melting ABS filament gives off plenty of its own? Or is PTFE next level bad news?

Not sure if this one is all metal or not, but it's what I recently bought/installed: simple but special.

Thanks, I will give that a go in slicer settings next one I do!

If it makes a difference, I'm doing these at 100% infill (if light can get through it then it's not going to work out well for my film/plates).

Yes, 100% infill doesn't usually work, for lots of reasons. Set it to 97% and it'll work better.

No, that hot end is not all metal.

Yes, PTFE is that much worse. But you're not acutally hot enough to make PTFE fumes.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-

Dr. Fishopolis posted:

PETG is much more pleasant to print once you dial in the retraction and fan imo.

Speaking of, can anyone recommend a good systematic approach to reducing stringing with PETG? Like, a good test print and adjustments I can try to hone in on a less stringy configuration? A lot of the advice I've seen online is contradictory, so I guess it's something that varies a fair bit by filament and printer. I can mostly just clean up with a scalpel, sandpaper and a heat gun but it'd be great if I didn't have to.

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.
You can't win, there will be strings.

Extrusion multiplier, temperature/cooling, retraction. I'd say all three of those are equally important to tune.

Then you get in to the warping & adhesion issues, if the part starts lifting (flat/ wide /square) you'll get pile-up on random layers or catching that can even fail your print and just yank it off the build plate.

Then you need to make sure not to print too fast or sparse, so your infill doesn't pillow or droop.

Printing PETG is like ABS lite. It's easier but everything you do to print ABS better improves your skill/success ratio at PETG.

ZincBoy
May 7, 2006

Think again Jimmy!

big scary monsters posted:

Speaking of, can anyone recommend a good systematic approach to reducing stringing with PETG? Like, a good test print and adjustments I can try to hone in on a less stringy configuration? A lot of the advice I've seen online is contradictory, so I guess it's something that varies a fair bit by filament and printer. I can mostly just clean up with a scalpel, sandpaper and a heat gun but it'd be great if I didn't have to.

I tune temperature to get the best tradeoff between layer bonding and stringing. Retract is secondary to that. The biggest thing was going to a direct drive extruder with very short filament path and the mosquito hot end. I think the mosquito hot end helps due to the very good heat break and fairly short melt zone.

200 fixture plate plugs printed in PETG. You can see there is minimal stringing and they pretty much just wiped off.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

big scary monsters posted:

Speaking of, can anyone recommend a good systematic approach to reducing stringing with PETG? Like, a good test print and adjustments I can try to hone in on a less stringy configuration? A lot of the advice I've seen online is contradictory, so I guess it's something that varies a fair bit by filament and printer. I can mostly just clean up with a scalpel, sandpaper and a heat gun but it'd be great if I didn't have to.

I never got great petg prints out of a bowden setup, but once I switched to a direct drive it was fine. You'll always have wispy strings but it's much more manageable.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
The "i'm a jerk answer" is: Print in ABS.

Yeah, PETG is just gonna string.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

ZincBoy posted:

I tune temperature to get the best tradeoff between layer bonding and stringing. Retract is secondary to that. The biggest thing was going to a direct drive extruder with very short filament path and the mosquito hot end. I think the mosquito hot end helps due to the very good heat break and fairly short melt zone.


Pretty much this: A high quality DD extruder and good hotend and you can easily print PETG without stringing.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
IIRC Teaching Tech is a profesisonal engineer.

Ever wonder why things are ~screwed~ from the factory? this guy...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwLlKMETvq4&t=483s

"because you can't tension the fishing line".. when it's clearly printing the shape of the teeth of the drive pulley. *bashes head on desk*

Yes, I was hate watching this.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-
Thanks for all the replies on PETG stringing. I'll play some more with temperature and retraction but I'm not ready to try to convert my Mini+ to direct drive so I guess I won't put away the hot air gun just yet.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT
You can totally get good petg prints from a bowden, it just takes a lot of temp and retraction tuning.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

I feel guilty now. I've only done two PETG prints, but both of them came out just fine with no twiddling or tweaking.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

cruft posted:

I feel guilty now. I've only done two PETG prints, but both of them came out just fine with no twiddling or tweaking.

Good! Sometimes you get lucky.

Another thing that doesn't get enough attention, is PETG gets wet. Dry PETG snots/slobbers/strings a lot less.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
I miss PETT filament for that very reason.

It gave no fucks about moisture.

Sauer
Sep 13, 2005

Socialize Everything!
Building a filament dryer out of a food dehydrator was the best thing I ever did for printing PETG. Bone dry PETG doesn't really string any worse than other filaments. You'll still get little fine wisps but those are easily removed with a heatgun. I have found that first layer height and flow rate needs to be near perfect to avoid material building up on the nozzle, burning, and eventually dripping off on to your work. Clear PETG is probably my favorite material next to ASA but a spot of burnt gunk in the middle of the part can really bum you out.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Sauer posted:

Building a filament dryer out of a food dehydrator was the best thing I ever did for printing PETG. Bone dry PETG doesn't really string any worse than other filaments. You'll still get little fine wisps but those are easily removed with a heatgun. I have found that first layer height and flow rate needs to be near perfect to avoid material building up on the nozzle, burning, and eventually dripping off on to your work. Clear PETG is probably my favorite material next to ASA but a spot of burnt gunk in the middle of the part can really bum you out.

I solved this to some extent with a polished stainless steel nozzle.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.
Was having some issues with bed adhesion (glass bed) and don't have time to really dive into things this week, so broke out the glue stick. Worked a treat, as did backing off infill to 90%, the resulting board looks more or less perfect.

I used to have trouble getting the glue off with isopropyl and a paper towel, but adding in a metal scraper between those steps makes it a breeze.

I tore the silicone sock when I was taking it off to clean off some goobers from a failed print earlier (still usable, just annoying), so went on AliExpress to look for some more. Wound up buying the Creality direct drive since it was on sale for AUD35 and seems to have very positive reviews on Amazon, so that'll give me something to do when I get back.

Sauer posted:

Building a filament dryer out of a food dehydrator was the best thing I ever did for printing PETG. Bone dry PETG doesn't really string any worse than other filaments. You'll still get little fine wisps but those are easily removed with a heatgun. I have found that first layer height and flow rate needs to be near perfect to avoid material building up on the nozzle, burning, and eventually dripping off on to your work. Clear PETG is probably my favorite material next to ASA but a spot of burnt gunk in the middle of the part can really bum you out.

I am thinking about getting a dedicated one - my partner is none to keen for me to have reels of filament in our oven, and I still haven't gotten around to finding a tupperware I can flip over and use to cover the spool at the top of my enclosure.

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.
I've been looking into making a heated vacuum chamber, since i already have a cheap 2 stage vacuum pump (now something like $50, they used to be way more expensive 10 yrs ago) and a pressure pot.

And honestly, the $150 resin degassing kits on ebay are a great value. If only I didn't need just the acrylic lid.
Add a little seat warmer or terrarium heater and you've got a serious bzness dryer.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
First, anyone who went to MRRF: https://twitter.com/3dpNero/status/1541484671682461700?s=20&t=ntyw-kbRbO_F5QRWgnwqHg

Yeah, that pandemic.. it ain't over.

Dr. Fishopolis posted:

I solved this to some extent with a polished stainless steel nozzle.

You solved it by having a cold spot in your heat path? Or are you suggesting that the polished nozzle didn't pick up anything to turn into a burnt snot blob?


Vaporware posted:

I've been looking into making a heated vacuum chamber, since i already have a cheap 2 stage vacuum pump (now something like $50, they used to be way more expensive 10 yrs ago) and a pressure pot.

And honestly, the $150 resin degassing kits on ebay are a great value. If only I didn't need just the acrylic lid.
Add a little seat warmer or terrarium heater and you've got a serious bzness dryer.

Seems to be a lot of work when a little PTC heater would do the job for a dozen watts as opposed to hundreds.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Nerobro posted:

First, anyone who went to MRRF: https://twitter.com/3dpNero/status/1541484671682461700?s=20&t=ntyw-kbRbO_F5QRWgnwqHg

Yeah, that pandemic.. it ain't over.


LMAO I'm like 90% sure he or someone he spoke to made a joke about it on his live stream from there. Might have just been a mask joke.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Nerobro posted:

First, anyone who went to MRRF:

Yeah, that pandemic.. it ain't over.

The phrase "convention cough" wasn't invented a decade ago in a vaccum

Covid cases this summer are just as high as they were last summer, and we're not even counting all the cases unreported by home test kits

#1, 2 3 locations to get covid are restaurants,weddings and conventions

N95 masks are super cheap and last forever, can be bought at any big box hardware store. The 3M auras are super comfortable for up to 8 hours

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Jun 27, 2022

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.

Nerobro posted:

Seems to be a lot of work when a little PTC heater would do the job for a dozen watts as opposed to hundreds.

I've never spec'd a PTC heater, and I was just going to heat the chamber wall rather than the air inside, since I'm pumping that out. I suppose you can alternate heating the contents, soak temperature then pump down and hold vacuum without heating. Looks cool if I can figure out how they work.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Vaporware posted:

I've never spec'd a PTC heater, and I was just going to heat the chamber wall rather than the air inside, since I'm pumping that out. I suppose you can alternate heating the contents, soak temperature then pump down and hold vacuum without heating. Looks cool if I can figure out how they work.

I'm suggesting "just heat" not "heat and pump".

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Nerobro posted:

You solved it by having a cold spot in your heat path? Or are you suggesting that the polished nozzle didn't pick up anything to turn into a burnt snot blob?

The latter. I've found that stainless takes maybe another minute to heat up but otherwise behaves pretty much the same as brass, except it's much less sticky.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Ethics_Gradient posted:


I used to have trouble getting the glue off with isopropyl and a paper towel, but adding in a metal scraper between those steps makes it a breeze.

Glue stick comes right off with hot water and liquid dish soap. Hell even just hot water will melt it right off.

Harvey Baldman
Jan 11, 2011

ATTORNEY AT LAW
Justice is bald, like an eagle, or Lady Liberty's docket.

I have been enjoying my Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K, but it needed a film replacement. Luckily, I had one to hand. After I changed it, I went to go order a new nFEP film from their web site, and was greeted with...



What in the actual gently caress? $70 shipping for two pieces of film in a cardboard tube?

Is there a good alternative to buy that's big enough for this Mega? I think it says 310 x 220mm nFEP film.

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010


Is $400 for a slightly used Kelant S400s (plus a bunch of resin and some other bullshit) real cheap and good?

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Wrr posted:

Is $400 for a slightly used Kelant S400s (plus a bunch of resin and some other bullshit) real cheap and good?

Found this review for it on Amazon

quote:

Good idea but poor design.
Reviewed in the United States on February 25, 2020
I hoped that it would be my best resin printer and actually it has very impressive XY accuracy.
But also this printer has lot of drawbacks. First is build plate. It is terrible.. holes that prevent printing directly on build plate, flat top that collect resin on top and it is extremely large (mush lager than needs). Resin tank also much lager than should be. Looks like it was designed for 10" printer. Second drawback is UV parallel light. It has very good XY accuracy but it is also larger and actually just 75W...it is mean than it works like 21W for 5.5" printer and that is very low. Also because of poor design (too large distance from screen) UV light has pronounced square pattern with bright lines that would on all your prints and resin would over cured at that lines. And finally, protective dark glass around the printer do not block UV light and almost useless.

Sounds pretty damning?

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Yeah, steer clear of Kelant. They're just not great machines in general.

It obviously wouldn't be a turnkey package with materials and tools, but if you're looking for a larger format printer, less than $400 will buy you either an Anycubic Mono X or an original Elegoo Saturn these days. Each of those is a solid machine with good support and a well-established user base. They've both been superseded by newer models, but they're also both still modern monochrome printers and are smokin' good deals at those prices.

poverty goat
Feb 15, 2004



more 3d printed bong accessories. got tired of holding the induction heater, made a mount for it that's really solid (in blue petg) (the sock is TPU)



:goatdrugs:

e: also, petg chat, I print almost exclusively petg now if I can help it, with a (all metal) v6 hotend and bowden tube, in 60% humidity in the southeast. Reducing retraction speed to 45 or so, tuning retraction distance (using the tower generator in superslicer) to a bit over 3, and enabling wipes have pretty much made it a string-free experience for me in practice, w/ heatgun grade fuzz here and there at the worst. I have more problems with PLA now, since upgrading to the v6 hotend and getting petg dialed in, and can go almost twice as fast in petg with absolutely no issues. My filament also lives in sealed homer buckets with silica pellets, and whenever it's out it's in one of those heated dry boxes, which at 55C isn't really hot enough to bake wet petg dry, but it's plenty to keep dry filament dry while it's in use. So far so good.

e: also if someone wants a recc for cheap petg I am on my second color of TPOIMNS filament for $17 and it might as well be the esun stuff I was using before, I can't tell any difference

ee: Here's a comparison of a part printed w/ a spool of filament I accidentally left out in the room for 2 weeks compared to one from a new spool. The blue one was printed w/ different settings on a bigger nozzle, but you can see how much of a loving mess the green one is. And the blue one has better definition around the teeth, etc. despite coming out of a .8 nozzle

(right print was cancelled btw)

poverty goat fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Jun 28, 2022

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Harvey Baldman posted:

I have been enjoying my Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K, but it needed a film replacement. Luckily, I had one to hand. After I changed it, I went to go order a new nFEP film from their web site, and was greeted with...



What in the actual gently caress? $70 shipping for two pieces of film in a cardboard tube?

Is there a good alternative to buy that's big enough for this Mega? I think it says 310 x 220mm nFEP film.

It’s because phrozen STILL doesn’t have a US distribution hub and ships everything directly from China. It’s stupid.

I found one on Amazon, however. I’ll look for it.

Whoops I lied. I forgot I got extra when I pre-ordered. :shobon:

Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Jun 28, 2022

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Hmmm. One of our vacuums died but the motor still works. Any fun stuff I could make out of it? I already have a big air filtration system. Paint booth, maybe? I think it might be too fast to make a curing rotation table. :haw:

gbut
Mar 28, 2008

😤I put the UN🇺🇳 in 🎊FUN🎉


You can always just print out reduction gears and make it into a multi-year project that costs twenty times more than outright buying a professionally designed device.

Opinionated
May 29, 2002



poverty goat posted:

more 3d printed bong accessories. got tired of holding the induction heater, made a mount for it that's really solid (in blue petg) (the sock is TPU)



:goatdrugs:


Nice I like that a lot. I need to get a device like that, how do you like it? If it's good can you post that stl too, I may have to adapt it~

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RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon
Found an article about strange layer lines and I thought it would be interesting to some of you too. The thing I printed was a puzzlebox with a labyrinth on the inside which fits the requirements for this kind of "error", I wish I had known about it sooner because I wasted so much time on it.
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/the-benchy-hull-line_124745

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