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Lol at 41 for 2 vs 190
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Jun 29, 2022 01:51
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Look those pigtails are very fancy
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Jun 29, 2022 02:18
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brugroffil posted:Look those pigtails are very fancy Literal cents worth of wire and dozens of cents of terminals!
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Jun 29, 2022 14:12
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"Hey boss some internet people said we can probably just use regular gfci receptacles." "Don't worry about it we bought a new one it'll be here Friday." "Receptacles?" "Welding machine." Well, thanks anyway everyone.
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Jun 29, 2022 14:50
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It gets better, a lot of people ditch the gfci because they break often apparently, they just use gfci extensions.
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Jun 29, 2022 15:14
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Guyver posted:"Hey boss some internet people said we can probably just use regular gfci receptacles." now they get to write off the cost of a new welding machine and someone in management gets a new welder at home 
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Jun 29, 2022 18:27
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Think I found my next new old tool. A light duty brush cutter that I think is from the 1980s, and a very unknown model of Stihl (FS106). Seller wants 50 euros for it because he broke the idle screw on the carb and has to go around manually revving it, I think I can fix that. Useful around the yard I think, where I can't get with the scythe.  I'm also on the lookout for any of these brush cutters for heavier duty use: -Husqvarna 65R (60s) and 165R (70s) -Partner B11/B12 (late 50s) B172 (70s) -Jonsereds RS44 or RS55 gently caress I need to buy some forest so I have something to do. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 13:52 on Jun 30, 2022 |
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Jun 30, 2022 13:48
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My handheld Ryobi grass/shrub trimmer is the tipping point of me needing to come up with a better organizational system for my tools. Before all these DTO Ryobi sales, I was like 90% DeWalt. All my un-pictured yard tools are in my backyard shed. I’ve still got a couple Ryobi orders waiting to ship. Stupid sexy sales. 
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Jul 1, 2022 05:49
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I want/need two specialized tools to finally stop abusing my screwdrivers. If there is nothing on the market I might just mod a few cheap generic tools. 1) I often need a small but sturdy pry tool. My electronics pry tools are way too delicate for this. So far I have always resorted to using the one small electricians flat head screwdriver/line indicator from my wiha kit. It's basically what I need, but I don't need the bulky shaft and line indicator function. I feel really bad abusing it like that. Any recommendations for something similar? The typical small screwdrivers of this size have very weak shafts that bend way too easy. I also sometimes pry stuff with the wiha pry/hammer screwdrivers, but I would like a tool that can do that without scratching up metal parts. Is there some rubberized/plastic coated pry tool you could recommend for such purposes? If not, I might just have to abuse some heatshrink or some such.
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Jul 1, 2022 18:46
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SEKCobra posted:I want/need two specialized tools to finally stop abusing my screwdrivers. If there is nothing on the market I might just mod a few cheap generic tools. For #1 I'd just get some cheap flathead screwdrivers and don't feel bad about abusing them. For #2 you want a "spudger".
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Jul 1, 2022 18:51
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:For #1 I'd just get some cheap flathead screwdrivers and don't feel bad about abusing them. Like I said, the regular ones I find are too weak for proper abusive levering. For spudger I only find ifixit tools that are made from plastic and way too delicate. I want some proper brute force tools.
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Jul 1, 2022 19:22
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I've been eyeing these for awhile, maybe they are too small for what you want, though. https://countycomm.com/products/widgy-pry-bars 
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Jul 1, 2022 19:37
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taqueso posted:I've been eyeing these for awhile, maybe they are too small for what you want, though. I've got the next to bottom one. Basic mini prybar.
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Jul 1, 2022 19:39
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SEKCobra posted:Like I said, the regular ones I find are too weak for proper abusive levering. I often use automotive trim tools as larger spudgers. Some are plastic, some are metal. Even the plastic ones hold up better than spudgers due to being thicker.
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Jul 1, 2022 20:30
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SEKCobra posted:Like I said, the regular ones I find are too weak for proper abusive levering. They sell demolition screwdrivers that are basically mini pry bars and chisels in one. But really most any flat head screwdriver with a solid steel shank ought to do it For #2, could you cut a shim or wedge from wood and lightly hammer that in between whatever you want to pry? That’s what I do for removing wood trim
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Jul 1, 2022 20:38
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:They sell demolition screwdrivers that are basically mini pry bars and chisels in one. But really most any flat head screwdriver with a solid steel shank ought to do it I am not removing trim, I am manhandling metal parts with exposed surfaces and want to avoid marrinv those, so metal on metal contact is what I am trying to avoid. The tool definitely still needs a metal core to handle the forces I am putting on it.
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Jul 1, 2022 20:55
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SEKCobra posted:I am not removing trim, I am manhandling metal parts with exposed surfaces and want to avoid marrinv those, so metal on metal contact is what I am trying to avoid. The tool definitely still needs a metal core to handle the forces I am putting on it. What about taking one of those nice little prybars and coating the business end with some enamel?
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Jul 1, 2022 21:09
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Are These beefy enough? https://www.harborfreight.com/nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-4-pc-63594.html If not, how about an aluminum bronze pry bar? https://www.mcmaster.com/5927A31 If you feel really fancy: https://www.mcmaster.com/Pry-Bars/nail-pulling-nonsparking-pry-bars LightRailTycoon fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jul 1, 2022 |
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Jul 1, 2022 21:32
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I just bumped into Michael K Woodworks on Etsy and thought of y'all. He makes beautifully turned and finished replacements for Stanley and Lie Nielsen plane handles and knobs.
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Jul 2, 2022 01:45
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SEKCobra posted:I am not removing trim, I am manhandling metal parts with exposed surfaces and want to avoid marrinv those, so metal on metal contact is what I am trying to avoid. The tool definitely still needs a metal core to handle the forces I am putting on it. wrap a pry bar in painters tape
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Jul 2, 2022 10:56
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Gothmog1065 posted:Seeing if anyone has any recommendations. I didn’t see this answered so I want to tell you I’m Husqvarna fanboy and they make a system like you’re looking for. https://www.husqvarna.com/ca-en/combi-trimmers/combi-trimmer-attachments/ They’ve got hedge trimmers, hedge trimmers on a pole, and extra poles so you can put your hedge trimmer on a pole on a pole. The powerhead is called the “husqvarna 325ilk” https://www.husqvarna.com/ca-en/combi-trimmers/325ilk-with-trimmer-attachment/ Also, nobody asked this but have any of y’all tried the Oregon Powersharp chainsaw chain+bar+sharpener? https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/o...652%29/p/541652 This here thing fits on the Husqvarna 120i, which is the cheapest battery chainsaw Husqvarna makes, and it turns it into a loving lightsaber. I normally use one of those sharpening jigs to set the round file to exactly 30 degrees, and meticulously file every raker and every tooth every time I change the battery. But now I just jam the saw into a little yellow thing for 3 seconds and I’m back to chainsawing.
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Jul 4, 2022 00:02
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I've got a 9 amp-hour M18 battery that won't charge to anything close to full. The charger shows the green LED for 'healthy charged battery,' but the indicator on the battery itself shows only 50% and the battery is only charging to 18.5v. Is there anything I can do with this thing to get it to take a full charge? Charger *does* work with another M18 battery, so I can't blame the charger.
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Jul 5, 2022 23:33
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Phanatic posted:I've got a 9 amp-hour M18 battery that won't charge to anything close to full. The charger shows the green LED for 'healthy charged battery,' but the indicator on the battery itself shows only 50% and the battery is only charging to 18.5v. Is there anything I can do with this thing to get it to take a full charge? Milwaukee's warranty is great if it's still within the window (3 years I think?). I had an 8ah battery fail similarly and RMAed it and they got me a new in box one within like a week. In my case the battery was dying very fast under load too. You might test yours out and see if it's the same.
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Jul 5, 2022 23:38
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I'd try and warranty it. I was looking at getting a 9ah battery for some of my Milwaukee poo poo, but I saw too many bad reviews. A lot of them describing the same thing you are. I went ith the 8ah instead. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Batteries-and-Chargers/M18-Batteries-and-Chargers/48-59-1890
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Jul 6, 2022 03:25
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SEKCobra posted:Like I said, the regular ones I find are too weak for proper abusive levering. Would a metal core tire iron work? https://www.jensonusa.com/Foundation-305D-Steel-Tire-Lever-Set I have these and they've taken some punishment.
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Jul 6, 2022 03:50
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TacoHavoc posted:Would a metal core tire iron work? This is definitely what I am going for, although I think I'd still want something with a narrower blade. But I'll probably just DIY something.
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Jul 6, 2022 06:50
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:I'd try and warranty it. Unfortunately it's out of the warranty period. And yes, what charge it is taking runs out quickly. Guess I'll try disassembling it and manually charging individual cells and see how that turns out.
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Jul 6, 2022 18:39
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Any reason why one shouldn't use a flap disc on a grinder to sharpen an axe blade? I know work hardening exists, but it *seems* like a grinder w/flap disc would be fast enough that it wouldn't be an issue.
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Jul 8, 2022 04:04
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It'll work, but you will want to make sure you aren't positioned to get a kickback where the disc bites into the cutting edge of the axe. You'll want it so the discs rotation is over the blade towards empty shave, not over empty space then into the blade. If that doesn't make sense (it probably doesn't) you might try clamping up some random piece of garbage metal and try putting an edge on it. Just make your mistakes on a scratch piece of steel and not something useful like an axe head.
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Jul 8, 2022 04:30
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Any reason why one shouldn't use a flap disc on a grinder to sharpen an axe blade? I’ve never really thought to associate work hardening with grinding processes of any kind. Regardless I’d think it’d be fine.
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Jul 8, 2022 04:33
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Traditionally I've only ever used a file and wet stone and my nice axe is shaving sharp. I could see a flapper disc on a grinder causing a bit of heat if you really went to town, maybe not as much as a grinding wheel but getting the proper angle accurately might be tricky but I'm sure it will be fine.
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Jul 8, 2022 05:35
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That's kinda what I was thinking re grinding disc vs flap disc. A flap disc seems more like "sanding" than grinding. I've done lots of stuff with an angle grinder and seen lots of red-hot metal with a grinding disc but not very much if any using a flap disc.
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Jul 8, 2022 14:58
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You can definitely get some heat with a flap disc with enough force. I used to sharpen lawnmower blades all the time with one and I could clearly see a change in hue for a second after I finished. But I was always going for speed and really got after it; with a little finesse I'm sure you'd be fine.
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Jul 9, 2022 05:06
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I've got this alaskan sawmill and something about it's been bugging me. The saw normally takes a few seconds to spin down when I take my finger off the trigger. But when it's clamped in the mill it stops pretty much immediately when I let go. Something is braking the chain and I think I know what it is. Where the mill clamps to the bar it's flat on the bottom half of the clamp.  But on the top part of the clamp it's been ground down in the middle so it only grips on the sides.   I think this compresses the guide bar rail, bending it slightly and braking the chain. In fact if I clamp very tightly the chain won't go at all. If I'm correct, I think I should take a whetstone to the top half of the clamp and grind it smooth. It's only a few thousandths of an inch and shouldn't take long. Is there any reason not to do this? I don't want to ruin my mill because I didn't understand something.
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Jul 9, 2022 20:33
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I want something that's not powered, that I can cut up branches in the back yard with. I don't have yard shears or a saw. I think I need some kind of saw. Looking to spend as little money as possible but not end up with garbage. So a hand saw? Any recommendations?
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Jul 10, 2022 16:04
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redreader posted:I want something that's not powered, that I can cut up branches in the back yard with. I don't have yard shears or a saw. I think I need some kind of saw. For branches it's nice to have an aggressive tooth on a saw so it can do wet or dry wood, I usually use a camp saw or bow saw for hand sawing branches. I can't find the one I have but it's something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Truper-30255-Steel-Handle-21-Inch/dp/B0052X7XV4/ I've also got one similar to this from my parents but it's not as comfortable to use because it can fold up, but it works well: https://smile.amazon.com/60th-Anniversary-Sven-Saw-Folding-Saw/dp/B002ZO526Q/ If you decide to go with a powered tool later there's a lot of cheap 4" hand chainsaws for $30-40 or you can get pruning blades for a sawzall.
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Jul 10, 2022 16:18
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Rexxed posted:For branches it's nice to have an aggressive tooth on a saw so it can do wet or dry wood, I usually use a camp saw or bow saw for hand sawing branches.
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Jul 10, 2022 16:24
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Thank you!
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Jul 10, 2022 16:49
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stealie72 posted:Seconding a bow saw. A good one goes through wood a lot faster than you might imagine. Get as large a one as you can find so you can take nice big strokes. In Loosiana dat dat dat's a beausol lel.
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Jul 10, 2022 16:54
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redreader posted:Thank you! Jumping on the bow saw rec, I’d also recommend grabbing a pole saw—ideally one with an integrated lopper https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fiskars...-1002/300412758 Or get your own separate pole lopper https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fiskars-54-in-EZ-Reach-Stik-Tree-Pruner-92347935/100041609
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Jul 10, 2022 17:32
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