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mewse posted:The only way to fix it ultra permanently is to recompile marlin and flash the updated firmware to the control board. For now it will be significantly easier if you just put a M92 E### into your start g-code in the "printer" settings in prusa slicer. oh poo poo sweet, I didnt even know that was a thing. So much to learn.  much better with the correct settings lol.
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Jul 6, 2022 21:40
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mewse posted:The only way to fix it ultra permanently is to recompile marlin and flash the updated firmware to the control board. For now it will be significantly easier if you just put a M92 E### into your start g-code in the "printer" settings in prusa slicer. A M500 after you set with M92 will save it to eeprom. It'll persist there through reboots. The way to clear it then would be m502 (load default settings) and then another m500 to save the current (now default) settings to eeprom. Eeprom settings also last through flashing, so if the current 93step/mm is in eeprom already (not sure if ender comes with eeprom setting set*) even flashing it with an updated firmware might not change it. *My ender 5 did, but it was also set to a completely garbage value ~300, which just raises other even more interesting questions.
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Jul 6, 2022 22:59
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queeb posted:ill give it a try with gyroid and just let er rip. Gyroid is a very interesting infill pattern. You'll never have to go above 15% for most applications. I like it for my speaker enclosures.
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Jul 6, 2022 23:35
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Aurium posted:A M500 after you set with M92 will save it to eeprom. It'll persist there through reboots. Depending on exactly how old queeb's printer is, the EEPROM save function might not even be enabled if it's still on stock firmware. Earlier Enders didn't have it, and it was annoying as hell until you flashed a better build of Marlin. There were (and probably still are) definitely some very odd decisions made for Creality's various firmwares.
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Jul 7, 2022 00:41
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My S1P has been printing nothing but spaghetti for 3 days with this eSun PLA silk, and its really starting to bug me. Time to start trying different settings, as I had a perfect one before doing a computer wipe.  e: +10c extruder and +5c print bed seems to be going much smoother. ilkhan fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Jul 7, 2022 |
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Jul 7, 2022 00:59
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i’ve been asked to make purchasing recommendations for the large SLA medical print lab i work in, and ohhhhh boy it’s TIME FOR TOYS always wanted a Form Wash, . now i’ll have two to play with. that’s a good start, yeah…
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Jul 7, 2022 02:10
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 this could be the cause of some of my weird extrusion as well. poo poo that thing is worn.
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Jul 7, 2022 15:57
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I'm still puzzled and annoyed by this printer issue and it'd be cool to fix it by the time the Ender 3 I ordered arrives so I can just return that thing unopened.cephalopods posted:I have a pretty heavily modded Anycubic i3 Mega. The hotend has been heating kinda slowly recently and barely keeping temp at higher print speeds, but yesterday it became unable to reach 225C and start prints before marlin's thermal protection kicks in. later troubleshooting: I installed another trigorilla board (because I didn't want the headache of rerouting wires for anything aftermarket). It has the same initial problem??? The printer will "start heating the nozzle" and hang out at room temperature until it eventually resets due to thermal runaway protection. The little green LED next to the heater1 terminals even lights up, but it doesn't send 12V through the terminals. Yes I have checked this with a multimeter. I verified the thermistor is fine (held a bic lighter near it and watched the temperature readout on the screen go up) and then replaced it with another known good one anyway. I've bypassed the wiring in the harness, and the connector board on the X carriage, even though they traced fine. I replaced the block heater, twice, and I've tested all 3 heaters with and without an aux mosfet installed. I've tried two different firmware branches. I replaced the PSU even though it didn't seem likely it'd be the issue (it changed nothing). The kinematics all still work, the bed heater and sensor still work, the touchscreen is fine, everything seems fully functional except that the squirty bit doesn't wanna get warm.
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Jul 7, 2022 17:12
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queeb posted:
I was going to say that 113 steps is an unusually high number for that type of extruder (they typically fall between 95-100), but ahhhh... yeah, that explains everything. You definitely did good to order a new one.
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Jul 7, 2022 17:14
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So how close to clear can resin prints get? Some models I'm thinking about getting in the future use acrylic rods (Necron guns) but I would probably like a different color. Is that something I can print or is it best to just use actual acrylic rods?
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Jul 7, 2022 17:44
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Is 108°F hot enough for drying filament? My oven only goes down to 200°F but I have a big Rubbermaid container that I set up with UV LED strips, a heat lamp and a temperature controller for retro briting yellowed plastics that I thought about trying on some wet filament. I obviously wouldn't turn on the UV lights but I'm wondering if the heat lamp would even get hot enough to make a difference given that my temperature controller maxes out at 108 or if I would just need to let the filament cook for longer given the lower temperature.
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Jul 7, 2022 17:54
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bird food bathtub posted:So how close to clear can resin prints get? Some models I'm thinking about getting in the future use acrylic rods (Necron guns) but I would probably like a different color. Is that something I can print or is it best to just use actual acrylic rods? Pretty translucent. Green translucent resin would work great. Note I am using the correct definition of translucent.
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Jul 7, 2022 19:14
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bird food bathtub posted:So how close to clear can resin prints get? Some models I'm thinking about getting in the future use acrylic rods (Necron guns) but I would probably like a different color. Is that something I can print or is it best to just use actual acrylic rods? True clear is a pain in the dick because the lack of pigment can mean a lot of lost detail. If you want to go see through green, red etc, should be workable though. It likely won't have the sort of strength you get with high end resins though
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Jul 7, 2022 19:24
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Jadius posted:Is 108°F hot enough for drying filament? My oven only goes down to 200°F but I have a big Rubbermaid container that I set up with UV LED strips, a heat lamp and a temperature controller for retro briting yellowed plastics that I thought about trying on some wet filament. I obviously wouldn't turn on the UV lights but I'm wondering if the heat lamp would even get hot enough to make a difference given that my temperature controller maxes out at 108 or if I would just need to let the filament cook for longer given the lower temperature. You basically built an oversized easy bake oven Putting heat lamps inside a Tupperware container sounds like an outrageous fire hazard but maybe I'm just imagining things My toaster oven goes down to 125 I think. I stick my filament in there, run it for 45 minutes at a time, for about 4 cycles, 45 on 20 off
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Jul 7, 2022 20:02
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:Do you mean the PEI bed surface? That's pretty normal, I think everyone burns the poo poo out of them when they first learn to level a bed. Start with glass imo. Better yet, get something with a bed probe and pay strict attention to your starting z-offset. It's Polycarbonate, not PEI.
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Jul 7, 2022 20:09
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Heat lamps on their own are a big fire hazard, putting them inside of tupperware is almost attempted arson. heatlamps seem to be the #1 cause of house fires in my area, lol
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Jul 7, 2022 20:25
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Jadius posted:Is 108°F hot enough for drying filament? My oven only goes down to 200°F 200degF is.. slightly less than 100C. A very good temperature for drying filament. What's your problem with that?
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Jul 7, 2022 20:30
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I remember seeing a recommended design from a filament manufacturer that was literally an incandescent lamp in a 5 gallon bucket
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Jul 7, 2022 21:23
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OK, it was taulman. lol incondecent
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Jul 7, 2022 21:26
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BMan posted:OK, it was taulman. lol incondecent  I suppose the filament will be very, very dry. Briefly. I don't think the ashes will stay dry when the fire department shows up though.
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Jul 7, 2022 21:31
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Trouble light indeed.
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Jul 7, 2022 21:35
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Acid Reflux posted:I was going to say that 113 steps is an unusually high number for that type of extruder (they typically fall between 95-100), but ahhhh... yeah, that explains everything. You definitely did good to order a new one. the joys of an old used printer. definitely making use of my troubleshooting skills! My model of the ender 3 pro is an older one where that gear is like, crimped onto the axel thing so you cant even take it off to replace it, i just had to order an entirely new motor. Luckily i can get one tomorrow via amazon. what is a reccomended new printer nowadays anyways? I might take a shot at selling some stuff on etsy/FB marketplace and all that and having 2 printers going would be good. I was looking at the prusa mini, it has good reviews. the Prusa MK3 also looks nice but thats out of my price range i think.
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Jul 7, 2022 21:47
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If your oven only goes down to 200 just put them in there with the oven, cold, use a baking sheet at a heat shield and set it to 200 for 20 min, then turn it off, wait 20 min, then do a cycle time of 5 on 20 off until your perceived problems or your desire to buy a filament drier disappears, whichever comes first
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Jul 7, 2022 21:50
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BMan posted:OK, it was taulman. lol incondecent  What kind of bulb are you looking for today? Incondecent, 10% humidity
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Jul 7, 2022 21:55
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Taulman might not know how to spell, but they sure as poo poo know how to make really goddamn good filament. Also fire, maybe.
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Jul 7, 2022 22:17
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A light bulb in a box is not "new" or "news". Also, fairly safe. It's a technique that's been.. suggested for decades. Safe enough that people with things to lose will post stuff like this: https://altonbrown.com/how-to-build-alton-browns-cardboard-box-smoker/ While we're at it, easy bake ovens used 100w bulbs. Use a 40w. That said, if you just want to heat one spool of filament. Set your bed to 100degC, put a cardboard box on it.
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Jul 7, 2022 22:22
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The problem with the bulb in this particular box is that, if made hot enough, Tupperware will collapse under it's own weight, and drip/ignite on the bulb Cardboard at least is structurally sound past the point of combustion Upside down terra cotta pot works too, people use those with candles as radiant heaters all the time Cannot advise enough against heating up a plastic box with a plastic lid not designed for heat. But it's his house and lifetime strike against him on home insurance rates for the rest of his life, not mine 
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Jul 8, 2022 00:25
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Polymers do have a minimum temperature to release moisture, btw. It is possible to have plastic in a 2% humidity environment for years and it never dehydrate beyond a point. You need heat and silica gel. Heat gets the moisture out of the plastic, silica traps the moisture before it goes back in. I don't dry PLA, PETG at 75C, ABS at 90C, nylon at 110C, exotics at 120-150C.
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Jul 8, 2022 00:40
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Jadius posted:Is 108°F hot enough for drying filament? My oven only goes down to 200°F but I have a big Rubbermaid container that I set up with UV LED strips, a heat lamp and a temperature controller for retro briting yellowed plastics that I thought about trying on some wet filament. I obviously wouldn't turn on the UV lights but I'm wondering if the heat lamp would even get hot enough to make a difference given that my temperature controller maxes out at 108 or if I would just need to let the filament cook for longer given the lower temperature. A lot of people put a terrarium heater in their dry box, but that's meant to be on near permanently.
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Jul 8, 2022 00:45
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I like the $40 food dehydrator method.
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Jul 8, 2022 03:55
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Rexxed posted:I like the $40 food dehydrator method. I goddam guarantee someone you know has an unused dehydrator taking up space in their house and they will be glad to be gone of it. Edit: look at all the dumb poo poo you can print to mod your dehydrator, too. Random thought: Could I use a food dehydrator to safely dry out a piece of electronics that got dropped in water? That's gotta be better than putting your phone in a bag of rice. Marsupial Ape fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Jul 8, 2022 |
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Jul 8, 2022 05:08
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been making some in-house resin working tools at work, particularly happy with this one, im calling it a “resin crowbar” for cleaning tank bottoms after a full UV exposure. press the tool against the FEP, expose for 50-70 seconds to cure the foot of the tool into the resin film, then rock the tool over its rounded heel to lift an edge of the cured film free. then you just pull the whole film out without having to touch the resin at all; i even designed the tool to stick in the build platform clamp, so i can let the peeled film drip for a bit. i’ve seen people use old bits of sprue in the tank to achieve the same thing but a finessed tool does a much better job with less risk of poking through the FEP. e: it’s sideways on purpose, that’s just my house posting style Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Jul 8, 2022 |
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Jul 8, 2022 05:22
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Marsupial Ape posted:I goddam guarantee someone you know has an unused dehydrator taking up space in their house and they will be glad to be gone of it. It's probably better than a bag of rice since that doesn't do much, but there's no replacement for taking it apart to dry it. It's not uncommon for water to get into small spaces between two flat plates (like a PCB and case) and not dry out of it for weeks if it doesn't have much exposure to air. A lot of people consider their mechanical keyboards broken forever by drying them off and waiting all of 12 hours before trying them again, when you really need to take it apart as much as you can and give it more time. Often it doesn't even need to have the switches desoldered unless one got water inside of it. The dehydrator thing is popular because the 3d print dry system was one of the first to market and it's literally a food dehydrator with modified containers. I just cut the plastic webbing out of a couple of the trays and can drop filament in there as well as old dessicant packs. The one I have is this one and you can see it's the same base as the print dry: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0188X0UT6/ It's not sold as westinghouse anymore but there's a bunch in that ~$40 segment that are about the same.
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Jul 8, 2022 05:25
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re: heating filament storage up, i would look into PTC heating elements. they have the great advantage of being inherently self-regulating, the hotter they get the worse they conduct electricity, so they’re designed to run at a particular temperature at the point of manufacture and you can rely on them to basically never exceed that, no matter how you use/abuse them. for something that’s supposed to be on for long periods without direct supervision theyre a very good fit for the lower-temp applications they’re suited for, and i’m p sure filament heating is in that range. they come in a rubber sheet form factor that’s well suited for being slapped to the side or bottom of a thing that needs slow, steady, self-regulating heat.
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Jul 8, 2022 05:32
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Rexxed posted:It's probably better than a bag of rice since that doesn't do much, but there's no replacement for taking it apart to dry it. It's not uncommon for water to get into small spaces between two flat plates (like a PCB and case) and not dry out of it for weeks if it doesn't have much exposure to air. A lot of people consider their mechanical keyboards broken forever by drying them off and waiting all of 12 hours before trying them again, when you really need to take it apart as much as you can and give it more time. Often it doesn't even need to have the switches desoldered unless one got water inside of it. How long would it take to dry out a spool in a dehydrator? Over night? 72 hours?
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Jul 8, 2022 05:47
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Marsupial Ape posted:How long would it take to dry out a spool in a dehydrator? Over night? 72 hours? I usually just leave them in overnight. I think CNC Kitchen tested some drying methods with weight differences at some point to see how much water was being removed.
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Jul 8, 2022 05:56
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Ambrose Burnside posted:been making some in-house resin working tools at work, particularly happy with this one, im calling it a “resin crowbar” for cleaning tank bottoms after a full UV exposure. press the tool against the FEP, expose for 50-70 seconds to cure the foot of the tool into the resin film, then rock the tool over its rounded heel to lift an edge of the cured film free. then you just pull the whole film out without having to touch the resin at all; i even designed the tool to stick in the build platform clamp, so i can let the peeled film drip for a bit. i’ve seen people use old bits of sprue in the tank to achieve the same thing but a finessed tool does a much better job with less risk of poking through the FEP. That's clever, I like it!
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Jul 8, 2022 17:44
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Rexxed posted:I like the $40 food dehydrator method. Spend  more and get an actual filament dry box. Sunlu ones are cheap and decent.
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Jul 8, 2022 17:57
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Doctor Zero posted:Spend Or, again, take your brother-in-law's food dehydrator so he never has to admit that he was never going to make those banana chips like he said he would.
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Jul 8, 2022 22:16
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cephalopods posted:I'm still puzzled and annoyed by this printer issue and it'd be cool to fix it by the time the Ender 3 I ordered arrives so I can just return that thing unopened. So, I have to ask, but you say you're using heater 1. Have you tried using heater 0 (and thermistor 0)? I would expect the hot end to use heater0 by default, and I see there are 2 channels on the Amazon link I found by searching trigorilla board.
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Jul 8, 2022 22:32
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