|
Always have more than 1 way to drive a screw / drill holes. The impact is nice it gets screws in and I feel strips less than screwymcscrewface Also, when you have multiple tools you load your driver in one and your drill bit in another for pilot holes. My wife: Why do you have 2 drills? Me hanging up blinds: Drills hole with one tool, drives with another: Because switching this out for each blind would suck.
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 19:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 06:08 |
|
|
tater_salad posted:Always have more than 1 way to drive a screw / drill holes. Get some smaller batteries too. I would have liked to have a 1.5ah battery instead of the 3 and 4 ah batteries when I was installing the blinds.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 19:18
|
|
|
I felt like superman when I was driving some 6" construction screws in with my impact driver. One of the things that's kind of surprised me with it is how good it is at getting some old screws out. I was taking apart an ancient aluminum screen door so I could fit it in my car recently, with lots of little machine screws that were probably put in at the factory. My regular drill just did nothing with them but cam out, but the impact banged 'em right out. I was initially an impact-skeptic when I bought my house and got into the Ryobi system, but I've found it incredibly useful. I got a basic impact and basic drill in a starter kit, and then later picked up the P214, and I've still hit projects where I was swapping bits around (mostly around drilling+countersinking+driving a screw that I don't want to overtighten).
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 19:44
|
|
|
one of the things that surprised me with it is how good it is at making screws hot enough to give me a phillips head thumbprint
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 19:48
|
|
|
Another question - I got a 40v Ryobi Brush cutter (along with Weed wacker) and it works wonders cutting down our bullshit around the house - crab grass and weeds that grew 5 feet high. Getting landscaping done in September so we have to keep this down until then (new house from last year). I was wondering - how bad would it be to use the 40V Ryobi cross-cut mower on things? I doubt it would work on the tall poo poo so I'll have to get that down but for now is it okay to run it over the mud and just keep the height kinda up there?
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 19:50
|
|
|
Impact driver is also nice to have using spade bits for bigger holes. Blasts through with no worries of binding.
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2022 20:33
|
|
|
I got these deposits that have built up in the shower on tiles, particularly in the corners. I can't get them off with acidic cleaners, that usually works but not on these. I tried degreasers. like oven cleaner and denatured alcohol but no luck with those either, even tried in combination with steam cleaning and scrubbing, but this feels as hard as rock.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2022 09:49
|
|
|
Vinegar or another more serious descaler?
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2022 13:13
|
|
|
From vinegar to 80% phosphoric acid
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2022 14:04
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:From vinegar to 80% phosphoric acid - my life and trials in home ownership
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2022 18:47
|
|
|
Fellatio del Toro posted:one of the things that surprised me with it is how good it is at making screws hot enough to give me a phillips head thumbprint When you need it, you need it
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2022 19:07
|
|
|
A July miracle! Our Bosch dishwasher came in after all, and it will be delivered tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2022 19:23
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:From vinegar to 80% phosphoric acid https://www.homedepot.com/c/demolition_equipment_rental Home Depot will rent you an 11 pound demo hammer for only $60 a day.
|
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2022 21:19
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:A July miracle! Our Bosch dishwasher came in after all, and it will be delivered tomorrow. You gonna name it Odysseus?
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 02:18
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:I got these deposits that have built up in the shower on tiles, particularly in the corners. I can't get them off with acidic cleaners, that usually works but not on these. I tried degreasers. like oven cleaner and denatured alcohol but no luck with those either, even tried in combination with steam cleaning and scrubbing, but this feels as hard as rock. You might be able to get it up with just a hammer and a chisel.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 03:07
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:You gonna name it Odysseus? 
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 03:24
|
|
|
I haaaaaaaaaaaaaate drywall
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 05:53
|
|
|
Drywall? Or mudding drywall?
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 13:15
|
|
|
I like dry walls. The alternative is much worse.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 14:31
|
|
|
Quick questions for, you, thread! This is the wiring mess that was behind the defunct doorbell in my house! Yes, they straight up painted over those wires... that were behind the actual noisemaking fixture. I'm assuming (probably incorrectly  ) that because it was a doorbell that the wiring is low voltage, is that correct?And then my next question: how would more experienced folks patch this up? My first thought was to just cut a 1" approximate drywall circle, jam the wires deeper into the bowels of my walls, then use hot mud to patch it up. The hole is maybe 6" from my ceiling so I'm not going to spend a whole lot of time/effort to make it perfect, but my main question was with the other
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 15:27
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Drywall? Or mudding drywall? Mudding. I'm doing a whole room in my basement and it is slow going. So many joints. Ceilings. A million corners. Weird doorways and windowsills. At least I should finish with the setting mud today and be able to move on to the premix stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 15:51
|
|
|
Johnny Truant posted:Quick questions for, you, thread! Yeah. It'd be best to cut a rectangular patch to the nearest stud. On the side without a stud you can stick a small board behind the drywall and screw through the existing drywall into the board. That will give you something to screw your patch into on both sides. Then you install the patch and finish it. It won't take that much more time and effort than just cramming something in there and hot mudding over it. But you could do that too. That's assuming you verify the wires are not in use.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 15:57
|
|
|
Johnny Truant posted:Quick questions for, you, thread! From the pic they look bigger than your standard 18/20 gauge wire for a doorbell but its hard to tell. Use a noncontact voltage tester to see if they are still live. Also imho cut a small drywall square, and then cut the wall hole to match the patch piece you just made. Get a small piece of scrap wood, fit into the hole then screw it into the wall above and below the hole. Screw patch into wood. Mud, sand, paint. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLGmTzEGSIY Sirotan fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Jul 7, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 16:09
|
|
|
has anyone ever sourced the phenolic resin countertops commonly used in lab settings? I was interested in them for a remodel but its hard to find info on pricing. Most commonly seen like this for reference:  but this was gonna be for two kitchens. If its not too expensive seems like a good durable alternative, especially now that solid color counters are more in vogue. I think it looks pretty sharp and it feels like stone or ceramic IIRC 
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 16:17
|
|
|
Recommended non contact voltage tester? Is this something where any cheap on on Amazon will do or is it worth spending some more money on since it’s safety related?
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 16:23
|
|
|
Sirotan posted:From the pic they look bigger than your standard 18/20 gauge wire for a doorbell but its hard to tell. I was thinking the same thing. Low voltage doorbells, in my experience, use the absolute shittiest tiny-gauge multi-strand wire possible, even cheaper and nastier than the poo poo that gets used for sprinklers or thermostats. Unless my scale is way off here those wires look like at least 14ga to me.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 16:23
|
|
|
Harriet Carker posted:Recommended non contact voltage tester? Is this something where any cheap on on Amazon will do or is it worth spending some more money on since it’s safety related? Yeah I don't think I'd recommend the cheapest one you can get for something like this. If you wanna go Amazon they carry a bunch of models by Klein, that is what I'd get (and have now). If you don't already have an outlet tester I would get this set, because that is also super useful to have: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT5KIT-Electrical-Non-Contact/dp/B07L5L7TMD/
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 16:28
|
|
|
Bright side if those are electrical wires then the fix is to install a blank plate on the junction box and no drywall needed on the big hole.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 16:29
|
|
|
quote:Lotta good advice from multiple people. Excellent, thanks for all the advice goons! I've already got a multimeter and I was absolutely going to check the wires before I hosed with them. Maybe I'll become the future PO and just put a plate over it regardless 
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 16:33
|
|
|
BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:has anyone ever sourced the phenolic resin countertops commonly used in lab settings? I was interested in them for a remodel but its hard to find info on pricing. I can't speak to the resin, but you can definitely get the same look from the quartz lines such as Cambria, Dal, Ceasarstone, or Silestone (and the plenty of other brands out there)
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 16:46
|
|
|
BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:has anyone ever sourced the phenolic resin countertops commonly used in lab settings? I was interested in them for a remodel but its hard to find info on pricing. Lots of the websites I'm seeing have a 'call for quote' thing and they should be able to give you a ballpark sq/ft price I'd imagine. It does say they are only heat resistant to 350F which is maybe a problem in a kitchen. If you just like the look, honed black granite would be very similar and its bulletproof. Black soapstone is probably closer in look but its a pain to maintain.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 17:38
|
|
|
The wife wanted a new towel rack in the upstairs bathroom, fine. …gently caress you, PO.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 18:13
|
|
|
BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:has anyone ever sourced the phenolic resin countertops commonly used in lab settings? I was interested in them for a remodel but its hard to find info on pricing. Maybe not relevant for you, but it would bother me doing cooking on the same kind of surface I spill e coli on and clean up "later"
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 18:22
|
|
|
devmd01 posted:The wife wanted a new towel rack in the upstairs bathroom, fine. lmao Screws, anchors, and 1/2 a tube of liquid nails? Musta been some heavy towels
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 18:30
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:A July miracle! Our Bosch dishwasher came in after all, and it will be delivered tomorrow. We had been holding off replacing our kitchen appliances, hoping that someday the supply side would get sorted out. Unfortunately all of the existing units (RCA brand) are 1976 vintage and the first one (refrigerator) failed completely overnight Sunday. Almost certain that the compressor motor burned itself out. Anyway, had to make selections for replacement based on what was in stock or could be obtained in a reasonable time frame. Ended up going with Kitchen-aid for the Fridge and dishwasher and GE for the stove and microwave. Just hoping we don't end up regretting the decisions.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 18:46
|
|
|
BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:has anyone ever sourced the phenolic resin countertops commonly used in lab settings? I was interested in them for a remodel but its hard to find info on pricing. If your budget permits, I'd look into soapstone, which is what lab bench surfaces used to be made from. Soapstone is chemically inert, highly heat resistant, and dense to the point of being nonporous and not requiring sealant, which is why it was an ideal material for science labs and electrical insulation and poo poo back in the day. If you want it to be shiny and super black, rub with mineral oil every so often. Not sure what about maintaining it is a bitch other than periodic oiling (which doesn't seem any more of a pain that normal wiping/cleaning).... That it's soft and prone to scratches? You can buff those out (no sealant layer preventing you from doing that) and oiling will reduce appearance of scratches. If I had enough natural light in my kitchen to allow for dark countertops, I would 100% go with soapstone (it's even period correct for my house!).
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 21:27
|
|
|
My company has a lot of science/research lab space and I will say that they get dirty very quickly. Without some sort of texture/grain etc you will notice water stains/salt stains, etc on them much more often. Our labs have a lot of white stains on them, not exactly sure why but we're not using any crazy chemicals or anything. They also only use highly concentrated alcohol to clean them but they never seem to get clean. I love the look of dark counter tops and I really like alternative materials but I finally understand why people like light colored countertops with multiple colors and textures, and why hotel carpets are always crazy multi colored patterns because it hides imperfections and stains. If you're like me and always want show room cleanliness, black surfaces are about the most difficult to keep looking that way.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 21:40
|
|
|
Queen Victorian posted:If your budget permits, I'd look into soapstone I actually thought that picture of the countertop and sink was soap stone at first because the carved draining board detail is very much a thing that is/was done in soapstone. I have it for one countertop and like it, but without sealing it absolutely shows all kinds of water marks, etc. I used a cheapie sealer for it last year which didn't last long, then I scrubbed the crap out of it and tried some mineral oil, which also doesn't last long. In the end, it's a natural surface so making it look consistent is just gonna require more cleaning/drying, and I'm okay with that. Maybe more/more consistent oiling would do it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 21:47
|
|
|
I guess I've come to view kitchen countertops as work surfaces that are inherently imperfect and subject to regular wear and tear from cooking and other kitchen activities. I know it kind of goes against the grain of the current ideal of a perpetually pristine kitchen countertop that looks like it's never handled anything beyond having takeout containers and wine glasses placed upon it, but I just don't want to have to worry about keeping a surface perfect while regularly doing things that could very easily mar it or otherwise render it less than perfect. I actually like the look of imperfections and wear from everyday use 
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 22:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 06:08 |
|
|
Queen Victorian posted:I guess I've come to view kitchen countertops as work surfaces that are inherently imperfect and subject to regular wear and tear from cooking and other kitchen activities. I know it kind of goes against the grain of the current ideal of a perpetually pristine kitchen countertop that looks like it's never handled anything beyond having takeout containers and wine glasses placed upon it, but I just don't want to have to worry about keeping a surface perfect while regularly doing things that could very easily mar it or otherwise render it less than perfect. I think a lot of natural materials look better as they wear in, where artificial ones just look like poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2022 23:02
|
|
