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Yeah, some people will do successive pours just in the center of any depressions, to slowly fill up any cupping the surface. It can also be hidden with ripple effects if you add a layer or two of thicker gels/mediums and sculpt motion into it. Tougher to do with still water, which I think his dio is representing though. Some will even cut off the creeping portion on the "open" side of the water facing the viewer with a blade, and then put a thin coat of clear over the cut to return the clarity to it. Epoxies are so nice though. As long as you tend to the edges at first, to make sure any initial creep is tamped down with a tool, you get very little shrinkage or creep in the end. The epoxy I used on my old AT-ST model was a single pour, and very little creep. Definitely had some bubbles though, but I left them in to add the pond-scum look. 
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Jul 2, 2022 12:20
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I am still using my old bottle of woodland scenics one part water product. I use it mostly for miniature bases and not dioramas though. What I do with it is apply a bunch of thin coats and it seems to turn out ok. One thing I do to avoid creep on the sides is to do a thin layer where it can actually bubble up in the middles just a hair. Like adding as much as you can up to surface tension breaking, which is not much. Then it dries pretty flat after the shrinkage. Of course if I had to go deeper than a few mm this would be too tedious.
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Jul 2, 2022 17:07
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:That's mostly likely why you've got the water creep up the sides there. Acrylic resins tend to shrink quite a bit, so the center shrinks most and the edges appear to "creep" up any surfaces adjacent to them. I don't think it's shrinkage causing it but rather surface tension and capillary action making menisci
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Jul 2, 2022 18:10
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Well poo poo. It looks like Michaels, at least here in Canada, has gotten rid of their selection of balsa/basswood/hardwoods. Not the best selection in the world, but they often had more than many hobby-shops, and it was nice you could buy singles of any size. Looks like the replaced the whole section with more crafting toys. Which hey, I love kids getting into crafts and projects and all that, but I've never heard of or seen anyone ever buying toys from Michaels.
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Jul 3, 2022 05:05
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The one time I went into a Michael’s it was just Cricuts as far as the eyes can see. So many cricuts.
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Jul 3, 2022 08:04
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Yeah, the chain as a whole is bit weird. Some of their stores have a wide selection, and some seem to go mental for particular product lines. Like, you go in one day and they're all "Yeah, we got rid of a bunch of stuff to devote 7 aisles to beading." And then a year later it'll be reversed and beads are back to 1 aisle, and they've increased the scrap-booking supplies. Plus I'm not entirely sure how they stay in business. I go there quite often for supplies. Been there at different times, different stores, different days of the week, and I swear I've never seen more than 5 people at a time shopping inside their huge stores. Oh well, at least I picked up a bottle of that new Liquitex Acrylic Gauche that people are raving about. Bought a bottle of Titanium White; if the worst color ever measures up, the rest of the lineup might be perfect.
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Jul 3, 2022 08:26
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Well poo poo. It looks like Michaels, at least here in Canada, has gotten rid of their selection of balsa/basswood/hardwoods. Not the best selection in the world, but they often had more than many hobby-shops, and it was nice you could buy singles of any size. I've found balsa and the like at Opus in Vancouver, particularly the Granville Island location, for what it's worth.
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Jul 3, 2022 10:23
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Fearless posted:I've found balsa and the like at Opus in Vancouver, particularly the Granville Island location, for what it's worth. Yeah, that might be my next stop. The closest one to me is in Langley, and I know they carry woods there. Just... driving through Langley is a monumental pain in the rear end. Everything for about 5 blocks around the mall there is constant gridlock. Lee Valley also by chance has 5 packs of basswood that would work for me too. That might be easier in the end, since it's a straight shot on the highway from where I'm at.
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Jul 3, 2022 10:51
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Well poo poo. It looks like Michaels, at least here in Canada, has gotten rid of their selection of balsa/basswood/hardwoods. Not the best selection in the world, but they often had more than many hobby-shops, and it was nice you could buy singles of any size. These sections have downsized/gone into hibernation in a lot of craft/hobby shops in the US too, because they're just too expensive to source at the kind of scale they sell at; wood is very expensive right now I understand lumber prices are already on the decline but it might take a year or more for the supply chain to actually reflect that to consumers? I'd expect these sections to return as soon as that happens
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Jul 5, 2022 19:06
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Hello. I made my first miniature: https://i.imgur.com/XxAgzHL.mp4 Also, I forgot this thread existed and would've come here asking for help instead of freestyling and copying YouTubers 
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Jul 7, 2022 02:46
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That looks great. What did you make it out of?
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Jul 7, 2022 05:57
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Thank you!  The base is wood with a layer of foamcore (paper removed) on top. The building has a foundation of XPS foam and walls of more paper-free foamcore. The cladding and roof consists of various kinds of wood I found in a local hobby store: some patterned, some flat, some balsa, some... uh, I presume pine. I cut up a soda can for the metal roof patches and chimney, and some thin acrylic for the window panes (with an aluminum mesh behind the windows on the door). The ground surface is a combo of acrylic paint, wood glue, mod podge, and sand/dirt (I think that's Bill Making Stuff's "crustard"). The various accoutrements on the side are mostly made of the same stuff as the structure, with the exception of the barrel which I turned on the lathe (... I like using the lathe  ) and the bushes are a few chunks of preserved moss. The whole thing is painted using acrylics and I attempted a number of things there: using it as-is, thinning it down for washes, mixing, dry brushing. I was going for the cartoon look, but I think the painting eventually let me down. So it goes.I have to say that this (a) took longer than expected, (b) required skills I didn't have and just approximated on the fly, and (c) made me realize exactly how badly I suck using all glues. The whole approach was my impression of what I saw on YouTube (Boylei Hobby Time, Studson Studios, Crafsman Steadycraftin, Bill Making Stuff) and winging it from there.
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Jul 7, 2022 16:08
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You got really good results, but those guys are able to wing it due to two very important factors: 1: fucktons of experience. 2: the magic of editing.
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Jul 7, 2022 17:07
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Oh, no doubt. After supergluing my fingers together for the third time in a matter of minutes... I adjusted expectations accordingly  But no, I didn't really think it would be effortless or in any way as seamless as their videos show the process to be. I developed a healthy appreciation for the skills involved. The combination of scale, variety of materials, and balancing when precision is good vs. detracts from the final product looking appropriately rustic... it's a wholly unique skillset.
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Jul 7, 2022 19:07
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Looks great, I love it! Make sure to get some medium-viscosity CA glue, much more forgiving stuff. I almost never use the thin stuff anymore. Goes off too quickly, too easy to glue yourself to parts.
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Jul 7, 2022 20:19
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Anyone know any good source to buy flocking? (To simulate carpet in cars). I've looked at all my favorite websites and googled the heck out of it but I'm just not finding what I'm looking for.
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Jul 7, 2022 20:23
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Charliegrs posted:Anyone know any good source to buy flocking? (To simulate carpet in cars). I've looked at all my favorite websites and googled the heck out of it but I'm just not finding what I'm looking for. Depending on the scale you can find some floor pads pre-made. Here is a place that has small leather : http://ka-models.co.kr/?product_cat=material&paged=2 Here are some floor matts and mud flaps: https://www.detailmaster.com/collections/car-mats This place looks like it has loose flock material for all sorts of interior colors: https://www.modelcargarage.com/eshop/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=16 another flock material : https://www.modelroundup.com/category-s/157.htm Are any of these close to what you need? I can look some more as well but I am not super familiar with model cars in particular.
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Jul 7, 2022 20:34
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Charliegrs posted:Anyone know any good source to buy flocking? (To simulate carpet in cars). I've looked at all my favorite websites and googled the heck out of it but I'm just not finding what I'm looking for. You mean something like this? I have no idea how good that company is, but I'd guess at most model scales you'd want velvet flock for modelling car carpet.
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Jul 7, 2022 20:35
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I saw a video of a person using a tea strainer looking thing for applying some of their flocking and now I am considering buying one and seeing how they work out for my non automotive flocking needs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDGl-lBSkeA&t=45s
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Jul 7, 2022 20:46
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This site has a ton of flocking colors for model cars. https://www.thepartsbox.com/product-category/the-parts-box/interior/flocking/ I find though most flocking on model cars is way out of scale though, making it look like the car has shag carpeting. As soon as you start flocking on something with fibers in it, those 2mm fibers are suddenly at the scale where in real life they would be 2 inches long. If I was doing it myself, I would probably just put down the glue, then sift some very fine-grained sand over it (not beach sand, something with very fine particles, from a craft store). Just enough to give the surface a rougher texture. Then airbrush whatever tone you want the carpeting to be.
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Jul 7, 2022 20:54
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IncredibleIgloo posted:I saw a video of a person using a tea strainer looking thing for applying some of their flocking and now I am considering buying one and seeing how they work out for my non automotive flocking needs. Can confirm it works well. It's pretty much the #1 way car modelers do it.
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Jul 7, 2022 21:35
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Looks great, I love it! Great for attaching photoetch parts like rails onto ships though.
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Jul 8, 2022 09:49
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tidal wave emulator posted:Great for attaching photoetch parts like rails onto ships though. True, but even then I still go with the medium. If you have something where you need that quick activation, get a spritzer/aerosol of kicker. I have both, and use the aerosol when I need a general fog of it over a piece, which leaves less residue than the spritzer. The spritz bottles I usually just open all the way and will use a toothpick to place it when I need it in very specific spot.
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Jul 8, 2022 12:32
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:True, but even then I still go with the medium. If you have something where you need that quick activation, get a spritzer/aerosol of kicker. I have both, and use the aerosol when I need a general fog of it over a piece, which leaves less residue than the spritzer. The spritz bottles I usually just open all the way and will use a toothpick to place it when I need it in very specific spot. For me it's less the quick activation and more that the thin stuff has some capillary action like TET and leaves a lot less residue than medium/thick/gel so you get really nice clean, nearly invisible attachments.
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Jul 8, 2022 13:17
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Makes sense. Especially some of those smaller scale ships where the PE is ridiculously small.
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Jul 8, 2022 13:19
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Plasmo and Night Shift have both been using Black CA on their builds. Looks like it is CA infused with a plastic of some kind. (PVA) Anyone try this yet?
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Jul 8, 2022 21:05
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What advantages does it have? I've seen black thin cement which means the joins show up more easily for cleanup, but I'm wondering what the advantage is if the CA is black. Presumably it's not much use unless you're going to paint over it. Working with resin maybe?
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Jul 8, 2022 23:04
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tidal wave emulator posted:What advantages does it have? I've seen black thin cement which means the joins show up more easily for cleanup, but I'm wondering what the advantage is if the CA is black. Presumably it's not much use unless you're going to paint over it. Working with resin maybe? I don't remember what video it is - I think maybe Plasmo's latest B-29 build, I think he says it's easier to sand down or something like that.
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Jul 8, 2022 23:11
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Yeah he uses it because it has rubber in it so its a bit more flexible and a combo glue and gap filler, and can see the join with the colour.
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Jul 9, 2022 00:36
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I haven't seen the videos, but I'm guessing the black CA glue is this stuff: https://bsi-inc.com/hobby/ic_2000.html
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Jul 9, 2022 01:17
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The Miata is complete. I'm mostly happy with it but like usual I made mistakes I could have avoided had I just been more sober while building it. Next up is the Hasegawa Lamborghini Miura which is my favorite car ever.       
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Jul 9, 2022 06:54
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Charliegrs posted:The Miata is complete. I'm mostly happy with it but like usual I made mistakes I could have avoided had I just been more sober while building it. Next up is the Hasegawa Lamborghini Miura which is my favorite car ever. Looks good all round. The hasegawa kit goes alright but be careful of the chrome that makes up the air intakes by the door. It's rather flexible and bits of it need painting black which is a pain in the butt to do/
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Jul 9, 2022 12:31
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The Miata passes my inspection. That metallic paint is something else. Good luck with the Lambo. Ah, and what the hell. Here’s where I’m at with my Suzuki Katana build:   I’ll probably forgo the windscreen, as it doesn’t mount nicely. But otherwise it’s a whole nest of vinyl tubing to sort out and getting the fork installed. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jul 10, 2022 |
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Jul 10, 2022 04:35
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drat, 1/700 Oerlikon cannons are really, really small. And given that I've bought five ships that have lots of them mounted... Edit: Tips on removing tiny parts from sprues without the risk of them flying away? FPyat fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Jul 14, 2022 |
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Jul 14, 2022 04:46
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FPyat posted:drat, 1/700 Oerlikon cannons are really, really small. And given that I've bought five ships that have lots of them mounted... Cut the runner with small parts off the rest of the sprue so you have a smaller thing to work on and then clip the part off the runner inside a gallon size ziplock bag. If it shoots out the opening your body will block it. If there are multiple attachment points to the runner, leave the smallest one for last.
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Jul 14, 2022 04:58
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I mostly do tabletop minis these days and some of the parts on warhammer figures are so small you can basically forget finding it if you drop it, so I've taken to trimming all my sprues over a couple of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/easy-sorter-funnel-tray-37081.html Gray plastic shows up phenomenally well against a yellow background and for part sorting and such they're pretty decently sized. Here it is sitting on top of my laptop:  If you're hobbying out of an office chair, it can help a lot to have a good chair mat under your chair to catch parts. If you don't have to worry about rolling around, put down a white sheet as a drop cloth. Consider getting a clamp light that you can clamp onto the edge of your desk in case you ever need to get onto the floor to find parts. Absolute worst case scenario: use a clean handi-vac and vroom around the carpet until you vacuum it up As an aside, if y'all have harbor freight in your area they can be a really really good place to get hobby utility items
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Jul 14, 2022 19:37
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Mirthless posted:Absolute worst case scenario: use a clean handi-vac and vroom around the carpet until you vacuum it up The trick I learned many years ago is to put a thin sock or some pantyhose over the vacuum nozzle, so the parts don't actually get sucked up into the machine. If you drop something on a non-carpeted floor and are still having a hard time finding it, use a flashlight down close to the floor and pointed horizontally. It'll help to make even tiny things cast a long shadow and be easier to spot. I use this method a lot to find very small aircraft hardware on a sometimes-very-dirty hangar floor.
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Jul 14, 2022 22:43
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The 1:1 carpet monster is a thing of nightmares.
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Jul 14, 2022 23:10
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There's a new batch of Kotobukiya Metal Gear Rexs' going out soon if anyones interested. https://www.kikatek.com/Product/1450742-KOTO021369-Metal-Gear-REX-Metal-Gear-Solid for the britbongs.
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Jul 15, 2022 21:52
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| # ? May 30, 2024 22:03 |
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Acid Reflux posted:If you drop something on a non-carpeted floor and are still having a hard time finding it, use a flashlight down close to the floor and pointed horizontally. It'll help to make even tiny things cast a long shadow and be easier to spot. I use this method a lot to find very small aircraft hardware on a sometimes-very-dirty hangar floor. is to turn off your vision and search for the parts by touch alone. The good thing is that it works great for small grey plastic things on grey carpet, the bad thing is that you'll also find lost pins, needles, modeling knife blades and other assorted sharp things.
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Jul 15, 2022 22:03
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