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Hyperlynx
Sep 13, 2015

Shemp the Stooge posted:

I have that same shelf in my office and I just took a look at it. It's not obvious exactly what is wrong with what you are doing. I have a question - in the upper left corner of the shelf in this picture, it looks like the side panel is set quite back, like several millimeters. Is that what I am actually seeing or is that a gap? On mine the top and bottom only stick out about 1mm farther than the sides.
Yeah, there's like a gap of nearly half a cm, on all the corners. This is the lower-left corner, which was easier to get a shot of:


Come to think of it, that's roughly how much the holes are out of alignment, too...

I also just had a chat with my mum, who loves putting IKEA furniture together, who suggested that maybe the tops and bottoms are swapped, or are 180 degrees the other way around.

quote:

edit - I would probably loosen the screws you already have in, try to loosely fit all the screws, and then retighten them all.
I'll try that too. Thanks!

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NoSpoon
Jul 2, 2004

nwin posted:

Edit: never mind, the plate is too high so I think I need to lower it.
You might get enough movement just by tightening the screws on the top hinge. Optionally replacing at least one of the screws with a longer one that goes all the way into the framing timber.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I'll assume you built it with oen of the pieces facing backwards. My frustration (and learning) with ikea stuff is you ALWAYS double and triple check hwo the dots/holes and alingment are pictured. I've had to take aparrt and rebuild so many loving things becaue you get it 90% done and you're like Oh gently caress.. this piece was suppose to face the other way.

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.

Hyperlynx posted:

I also just had a chat with my mum, who loves putting IKEA furniture together, who suggested that maybe the tops and bottoms are swapped, or are 180 degrees the other way around.

I put together a Kallax a couple years ago and I’m pretty sure I had the same problem, rotating the top 180 fixed it

Slanderer
May 6, 2007
Can anyone recommend a good lubricant for horizontally sliding aluminum-frame windows? The ones in my sunroom shriek pretty bad (partially because the cheap thin frames of all the sunroom windows have bent over the decades lol), and im not sure if i should use graphite, silicone or ptfe--any thoughts?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Something dry would probably work good and not collect dirt and crud.

Dry graphite, or dry teflon sprays would probably fit the bill.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


I really like PB B'laster's PTFE spray for that sort of stuff.

Slanderer
May 6, 2007

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

Something dry would probably work good and not collect dirt and crud.

Dry graphite, or dry teflon sprays would probably fit the bill.


Darchangel posted:

I really like PB B'laster's PTFE spray for that sort of stuff.

Thanks. I have a bottle of Super Lube 51004 (ptfe) that I can use. I've been using it for my model-making plastic nippers, and the fact that its food grade is even better (less hand washing lol)

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

tater_salad posted:

One time my wife tried to touch my wood and yelled at her..

LITERALLY NO ONE posted:


Y'all disappoint me.

I never yell at my wife for touching my wood.

Hyperlynx
Sep 13, 2015

quote:

Kallax
Got it!

I turned the bottom 180 degrees, and it didn't fix the problem. So I just tried picking up the side and lifting it until it was flush, and then putting the screw in. I don't know how the physics works, or how I was able to get purchase to lift the thing, but somehow it worked!

I did the top without turning it 180 degrees. I think the top and bottom pieces are symmetrical down the middle, and the problem was that the sides were somehow too low. I don't know how there was enough play in the dowels for that to be possible, but it's worked now - all eight screws are in!

Jippa
Feb 13, 2009
Can I steam clean my sheet vinyl flooring? I have spent a while looking for an answer and I have found pretty much every one possible. From "it's fine" to "it's ok on sheet but not tile or plank" to "never ever do it".

I was hoping someone with actual experience doing could help or does anyone know a reputable site they trust which discusses it? Thanks.

chutwig
May 28, 2001

BURLAP SATCHEL OF CRACKERJACKS

The glass sliding door in my house has extremely stripped screws on the rollers, both the screw that holds the roller assembly in place and the screw that adjusts the roller itself. The door was not replaced by the renovators before we moved in and while I was able to use a square bit to drop the rollers enough to take the door off the track when we were moving furniture in, it is now not possible to use that same square bit to adjust the rollers any more. The adjustment screws are completely rounded off, so apparently I only had one shot to adjust the door with the current screws in place without some extra help.

The warranty label on the door says it's a Silver Line 5502-X. I can find it easily enough on the Internet, but actually finding what seems like a trustworthy place to order parts is a more difficult task. https://windowanddoorparts.us/tandem-roller-p-10173.html seems like the right part, but it only appears to have the adjustment screw, so I'm unclear on what the rest of the assembly is that holds it in place. I also don't want to mess up any adventures with the door, because obviously if I mess things up and can't get it securely back on the track, then there's going to be a big open hole in the back of my house. Ideally I could remove the door from the track, remove the rollers to ensure I'm ordering the right part, then put it all back in place until the replacements get here.

What should I do to adjust the adjustment screws in a way that won't be irreversible in order to get the door out of the track? It's pretty tough to angle a drill into the door track. Is there a non-sketchy place I can order such parts from, once I figure out what the right part(s) are?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Remove the door

Flip it over
Remove one or both of the roller units & take it a hardware or door/window place, or look online

(example - may not be the one you need): https://www.reflectwindow.com/produ...c8b19ae18ff6bc4

floWenoL
Oct 23, 2002

So I've been trying to beef up my front door, but ran into a problem when trying to add a hinge guard to the lowest hinge:



As you can see, the gap at the bottom is somewhat narrow, and when the strike plate is there, it causes the door to rub on the upper left when closing, and it makes opening the door somewhat hard to do.

Here's a picture of the whole door:



One option is to widen the gap by shimming the bottom hinge, but I feel like that would just run into the same problem of making the door rub on the upper left. In fact, I already had to shim the top hinge, since replacing the hinge screws with longer ones caused it to tighten up at the upper right corner.

I think the door frame itself is a bit out of true, since it seems like the gap on the right is thin at the top, thick in the middle, but thinnest at the bottom.

Another option I'm considering is sanding/chiseling the jamb in the lower right to create a gap that the hinge guard could fit into. But I want to be sure I've considered all options before doing something destructive.

Also for reference, here's a pic of another hinge guard on the middle hinge, which seems to fit fine:



(I also have a diagram of some gap measurements I made with calipers, but I'm not sure how much more helpful it would be over the full door pic above.)

Anyone else have any better ideas than removing some wood from the jamb?

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
Get a plane and start working on the door where it contacts the frame.

E: oh, metal door. Nevermind my reply.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Jippa posted:

Can I steam clean my sheet vinyl flooring? I have spent a while looking for an answer and I have found pretty much every one possible. From "it's fine" to "it's ok on sheet but not tile or plank" to "never ever do it".

I was hoping someone with actual experience doing could help or does anyone know a reputable site they trust which discusses it? Thanks.
I don't know if it's recommended, but my mom has been doing it for like 20, 25 years. I would guess just don't flood it and dry it at the end?

Jippa
Feb 13, 2009

Anne Whateley posted:

I don't know if it's recommended, but my mom has been doing it for like 20, 25 years. I would guess just don't flood it and dry it at the end?

Thanks, I think I will buy a steam cleaner anyway for the rest of my place and just test it very carefully in a dark corner on the vinyl.

floWenoL
Oct 23, 2002

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

E: oh, metal door. Nevermind my reply.

How could you tell? (The dent?)

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur

floWenoL posted:

How could you tell? (The dent?)

Front door. I forgot by the end of reading it that you said front door. Metal doors are more common than solid wood for entry doors.

But if it was wood, planing the corner where it contacts the frame would be the easiest fix.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



floWenoL posted:

So I've been trying to beef up my front door, but ran into a problem when trying to add a hinge guard to the lowest hinge:



As you can see, the gap at the bottom is somewhat narrow, and when the strike plate is there, it causes the door to rub on the upper left when closing, and it makes opening the door somewhat hard to do.

Here's a picture of the whole door:



One option is to widen the gap by shimming the bottom hinge, but I feel like that would just run into the same problem of making the door rub on the upper left. In fact, I already had to shim the top hinge, since replacing the hinge screws with longer ones caused it to tighten up at the upper right corner.

I think the door frame itself is a bit out of true, since it seems like the gap on the right is thin at the top, thick in the middle, but thinnest at the bottom.

Another option I'm considering is sanding/chiseling the jamb in the lower right to create a gap that the hinge guard could fit into. But I want to be sure I've considered all options before doing something destructive.

Also for reference, here's a pic of another hinge guard on the middle hinge, which seems to fit fine:



(I also have a diagram of some gap measurements I made with calipers, but I'm not sure how much more helpful it would be over the full door pic above.)

Anyone else have any better ideas than removing some wood from the jamb?

Plane off material from the top edge (about a third of the way from the corner/left side in your photo) of the door slab.
Them shim out the lower hinge so that the gap is even.

Lester Shy
May 1, 2002

Goodness no, now that wouldn't do at all!
It's the summer in Texas, and I live in a house with multiple window units, no central air. I have a bedroom with a 5000 BTU AC that only gets used as a bedroom; it is totally unoccupied between 8AM and midnight. I'm wondering what's the best/cheaper method to keep it cool at night. Should I turn off the AC in the morning and turn it back on a few hours before bed, or leave it running in Eco mode all day, set at like 75 or 80 and then turn it down to 72 at night?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Lester Shy posted:

It's the summer in Texas, and I live in a house with multiple window units, no central air. I have a bedroom with a 5000 BTU AC that only gets used as a bedroom; it is totally unoccupied between 8AM and midnight. I'm wondering what's the best/cheaper method to keep it cool at night. Should I turn off the AC in the morning and turn it back on a few hours before bed, or leave it running in Eco mode all day, set at like 75 or 80 and then turn it down to 72 at night?

I would just turn it on an hour before bed at full rip. If it's cooler outside than inside open a window or two to first dump the air out.

There are a lot of variables in play here, too many to guess at, but the easiest way for a good answer is to buy a kill-a-watt and try both options. All day at 80+ cranking it before bed and just turning it on right before bed. Regardless make sure you have blackout curtains drawn all day to keep as much heat out as possible.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Lester Shy posted:

It's the summer in Texas, and I live in a house with multiple window units, no central air. I have a bedroom with a 5000 BTU AC that only gets used as a bedroom; it is totally unoccupied between 8AM and midnight. I'm wondering what's the best/cheaper method to keep it cool at night. Should I turn off the AC in the morning and turn it back on a few hours before bed, or leave it running in Eco mode all day, set at like 75 or 80 and then turn it down to 72 at night?

We had the same before central A/C.

Put it on a timer. Set it to start the unit an hour or two before you start using the room & to shut off when you leave

chutwig
May 28, 2001

BURLAP SATCHEL OF CRACKERJACKS

PainterofCrap posted:

Remove the door

Right, my question is, how do I remove the door without being able to adjust the rollers down all the way? It doesn't seem like there is enough space to get the door off the track otherwise.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Stick a flat bar under the door and lever it up, then pull the bottom in towards you.

One of the more common ways to break into a house, by the way.

C-Euro
Mar 20, 2010

:science:
Soiled Meat
If I'm painting over white with a slightly different shade of white (ceiling in our finished basement but I don't know the exact shade that the previous owner used), should I still put down a coat of primer first?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

C-Euro posted:

If I'm painting over white with a slightly different shade of white (ceiling in our finished basement but I don't know the exact shade that the previous owner used), should I still put down a coat of primer first?

Nope. Unless you REALLY super care about color rendering or something on your ceiling. I suggest instead of buying tinted paint you buy purple color change white ceiling paint.

Instead, make sure you clean the ceiling.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Valspar-Ceiling-Flat-Ultra-White-Interior-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-128-fl-oz/50438562

C-Euro
Mar 20, 2010

:science:
Soiled Meat

H110Hawk posted:

Nope. Unless you REALLY super care about color rendering or something on your ceiling. I suggest instead of buying tinted paint you buy purple color change white ceiling paint.

Instead, make sure you clean the ceiling.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Valspar-Ceiling-Flat-Ultra-White-Interior-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-128-fl-oz/50438562

Thanks. Clean with TSP like I did the walls?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

C-Euro posted:

Thanks. Clean with TSP like I did the walls?

Yup. Make sure to do the calculations on Sq ft and then add a gallon if you really want solid coverage or like me always go a little thicker with the roller. Ceiling white is very standard stuff so if someone is having a sale on the color change at the orange store instead of the blue store get that.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

What’s my best option for removing a box like this so I can install one suitable for a ceiling fan?

The issue I’m having is I have no access to a similar box because there’s plywood nailed down on top of it in the attic. Yes I could pull the plywood up, but it’s right under some AC ducting and would be a pain in the rear end.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Oscillating tool with a hacksaw blade to plunge in and cut the nails from the front. That'll at least free it up. With a square box you could then work it out through the hole, with that round one and those wings you might need to make further use of the same tool to cut the box apart in place a bit so it can be extracted.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

nwin posted:

What’s my best option for removing a box like this so I can install one suitable for a ceiling fan?



Please wear gloves and a N95 or better to mess with fiberglass.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

nwin posted:

What’s my best option for removing a box like this so I can install one suitable for a ceiling fan?

The issue I’m having is I have no access to a similar box because there’s plywood nailed down on top of it in the attic. Yes I could pull the plywood up, but it’s right under some AC ducting and would be a pain in the rear end.


*Looks around to make sure nobody from the electrical thread is around* Man, fan boxes are a scam, you don't even need any box at all, you can just screw a fan into the drywall.

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

DOPE FIEND KILLA G
Jun 4, 2011

hey nwin big fan here mind if i hang in your bathroom and watch you poo poo?

haveblue
Aug 15, 2005



Toilet Rascal
On a scale from "they just turn on and off" to "electrical fire", what's the worst thing that could happen if I wire up a dimmer switch to non-dimmable LED bulbs?

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


They won't work or they'll flash and do weird poo poo

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

LED bulbs are expensive and that might be a fast way to ruin one.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

haveblue posted:

On a scale from "they just turn on and off" to "electrical fire", what's the worst thing that could happen if I wire up a dimmer switch to non-dimmable LED bulbs?


Leperflesh posted:

LED bulbs are expensive and that might be a fast way to ruin one.

And it will work worse than a normal light switch. Which is an impressively low bar.

haveblue
Aug 15, 2005



Toilet Rascal
Noted. I have a row of eight recessed lights that I converted to LED a few years ago and cannot remember whether I sprang for dimmable bulbs. Hand-checking would be a pain in the rear end, but the smart dimmer I want is enough money anyway that I may just buy a whole new set along with it.

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QuarkJets
Sep 8, 2008

NoSpoon posted:

You might get enough movement just by tightening the screws on the top hinge. Optionally replacing at least one of the screws with a longer one that goes all the way into the framing timber.

That's what I want to say too - I had some doors with this problem in my previous house and noticed that the screws in the top hinge were noticeably loose. Tightening them made a huge difference.

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