3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

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withak: Jan 15, 2003; Fun Shoe

Blender is for loosey-goosey adjustments to existing models. It isn't good at CAD.

# ? Jul 18, 2022 16:27

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# ? May 30, 2024 09:11

w00tmonger: Mar 9, 2011; F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

withak posted:

Blender is for loosey-goosey adjustments to existing models. It isn't good at CAD.

I think it largely depends on what you want to do.

The idea of someone sculpting dnd minis in Cad sounds like a shitshow

# ? Jul 18, 2022 16:59

ilkhan: Oct 7, 2004; I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.

big scary monsters posted:

I think there is some tension between two types of 3D printer users ITT. Some like messing around with their printer, tuning and rebuilding and adding custom parts and enjoy that as a hobby in itself. Others just want to be able to make some things out of plastic. Lots of people posting here are the first kind and that's cool, they're interesting machines and I entirely understand why people would find that fun.

But for me the actual fun is in designing and using the plastic bits, and I just want my printer to turn 3D models into physical parts with as little hassle as possible. Since building my Mini+ in March I've probably spent 4 hours in total doing maintenance/tuning stuff. There is more stringing with PETG than I'd like, like I posted about previously, but fixing it seems like too much of a pain in the arse when I mostly print PLA anyway. Otherwise everything works fine and I'm not at all motivated to mess around trying to squeeze extra performance out of the thing, even though I am confident I could do so.

So if you're interested in the nitty gritty of printer firmware and different boards and hot ends and whatever it's no big deal to take the thing entirely to bits or spend an afternoon figuring out config files. But if you just want to see how your incredible design for an overly complex door hinge works in reality and don't care how you get to it that's all sort of tedious.

Totally agree with this. Its why I bought the S1P and not an Ender 3 v2.

Both styles are 100% valid, but knowing which is which and which you embrace should drive your decision-making process, not goon-pressure.

# ? Jul 18, 2022 17:23

senrath: Nov 4, 2009; Look Professor, a destruct switch!

w00tmonger posted:

I think it largely depends on what you want to do.

The idea of someone sculpting dnd minis in Cad sounds like a shitshow

That's my understanding as well. Programs like Blender or Zbrush (no comment on either since I haven't personally used them) are better for things like miniatures, but are terrible if you want to design a functional part.

# ? Jul 18, 2022 17:23

Serenade: Nov 5, 2011; "I should really learn to fucking read"

I'm starting to dip my toe in the world of 3d printing "cosplay" stuff. Very quickly learned this is not a job for CAD software. (At least at my skill level)

# ? Jul 18, 2022 17:23

Sydney Bottocks: Oct 15, 2004

After tinkering around with both an Ender 3 and an Ender 5, and then getting a couple of resin printers and using those, I can honestly say the desire to spend hours and hours tinkering around with a filament printer has been soundly beaten out of me; and whenever I get around to buying another filament printer, I'm going to keep the phrase "it just works" very heavily in mind. :v:

# ? Jul 18, 2022 18:09

insta: Jan 28, 2009

Roundboy posted:

I know exactly what I am doing, and my printer has been down for a few weeks because I am too lazy to track down my SD cards to reflash the fw after the latest klipper update

This is why you leave a FAT-formatted 128mb card in the MCU and use flash-sdcard.sh

# ? Jul 18, 2022 18:28

Some Pinko Commie: Jun 9, 2009; CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

w00tmonger posted:

I think it largely depends on what you want to do.

The idea of someone sculpting dnd minis in Cad sounds like a shitshow

Yeah, "mechanical" CAD programs like Fusion360/Inventor/Solidworks/etc. are meant for modeling things with known dimensions for every curve and facet. This is a huge pain for modeling of "organic" or "artistic" designs.

Zbrush and Sculptrix are the free-form modeling softwares I think of first for "organic" and "artistic" type designs.

# ? Jul 18, 2022 20:14

ImplicitAssembler: Jan 24, 2013

Both are really limited in resolution on the free versions. Blender might be the better choice.

# ? Jul 18, 2022 20:19

poverty goat: Feb 15, 2004

Sydney Bottocks posted:

After tinkering around with both an Ender 3 and an Ender 5, and then getting a couple of resin printers and using those, I can honestly say the desire to spend hours and hours tinkering around with a filament printer has been soundly beaten out of me; and whenever I get around to buying another filament printer, I'm going to keep the phrase "it just works" very heavily in mind.

Does this really exist though? What printer is it?

# ? Jul 18, 2022 21:33

Marsupial Ape: Dec 15, 2020; the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar

Javid posted:

oh hell yeah, nice work.

I've spent the last couple days experimenting with brute forcing ttrpg style minis out of my ender, as a more pleasant alternative to dealing with resin - eventual goal is a warhammer army, but one thing at a time. Turns out I pretty much have to manually add hard supports that I hot knife off later, but once I deal with THAT it can produce some surprisingly crisp results_{for fdm} from an $8 heroforge file

I may or may not be able to peel off all the brim without breaking anything, but the fact that those WORKED means they'll work with bases on them too. At that size they basically don't have faces; I think I'd need to go for a smaller nozzle to do anything about THAT.

And honestly, the level of detail loss is commensurate with what's going to happen when I (poorly) paint the things. This is promising..

Thanks.

Also, try printing your mini, again, but do two at once. I find that doing that, even after tuning my Ender3v2 for that specific print, will increase the quality of both prints. At least one will turn out really good. Also try using tree supports in Cura. FDM mini printer people seem to like tree supports best.

# ? Jul 18, 2022 21:34

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

poverty goat posted:

Does this really exist though? What printer is it?

The Neptune 2 I got was pretty drat close. I preordered the Neptune 3 and it's shipping now, so we'll see if that's even better.

# ? Jul 18, 2022 21:40

mewse: May 2, 2006

smax posted:

I�m having some issues with Octoprint and a Prusa MK3S+. I have a Pi 3B+ set up in a case mounted to the printer, and a USB connection to the MK3S+ mainboard. The whole thing is in a SainSmart enclosure in my garage in Texas (which is currently hotter than hell), the Pi typically runs warm but not dangerously hot (like 60-65 C max?).

I now have a Pi Zero 2 W that I�m going to try to get installed directly on my mainboard, but before I dive in to that I want to better understand the issues I�m having now.

I�m getting 2 symptoms of what I think is a dying or overheated Pi, but I wanted to see if anyone else has seen this before. I�m hoping it�s just a flaky Pi and not a symptom of an overheating or dying Einsy board.

-Undervoltage warnings regardless of power supply. I�ve tried a few, including an Adafruit Pi 3 wall charger and other heavy gauge USB cables plugged into different USB chargers.
-Failure to communicate over the USB bus, the Pi cannot connect to the Prusa, citing communication issues (failure to auto detect printer). When attempting to connect the Prusa does restart, which is an expected behavior as far as I know.

This weekend I pulled the whole thing inside and it behaved just fine with no issues, happily connecting and printing via Octoprint. I put it back outside and I�m suddenly having connection issues again (though no under voltage issues yet). We are in a bad heat wave, but this exact setup has printed happily in a hot garage for a while now.

I guess my direct question is: are USB connection issues like this known problems associated with a hot Pi or a hot Einsy board? Is a direct serial connection more stable in this regard?

Do you have any cooling on the pi at all?

# ? Jul 18, 2022 21:54

Javid: Oct 21, 2004

Marsupial Ape posted:

Thanks.

Also, try printing your mini, again, but do two at once. I find that doing that, even after tuning my Ender3v2 for that specific print, will increase the quality of both prints. At least one will turn out really good. Also try using tree supports in Cura. FDM mini printer people seem to like tree supports best.

All of that is what i did

There's just only so much you can do @ 0.1mm

# ? Jul 18, 2022 22:29

Marsupial Ape: Dec 15, 2020; the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar

Javid posted:

All of that is what i did

There's just only so much you can do @ 0.1mm

It�s not terrible. I don�t know the support clean up will be, but the torso features look very defined. Also, no stringing that I can see, so that�s bragging rights.

But, yes, FDM is ultimately less optimal for complex mini printing. Really good for pooping out orc bandits en masse with FDM friendly models, though.

# ? Jul 18, 2022 22:58

Opinionated: May 29, 2002

RabbitWizard posted:

When I printed my fan shroud I was playing around to save every gram of filament because I thought my print head will move slower if there's more weight to accelerate. Seeing yours I guess it doesn't really matter.

Nice

Yeahhh it's a little extreme~ Thankfully input shaping does wonders without too much smoothing! I really wish I got a biqu-h2 or the orbiter extruder. I bought the direct drive kit from micro swiss before I understood much about it all.

I would definitely never recommend the micro-swiss kit at this point with all the other great direct drive extruders out there.

I'm running this at speeds faster than my mk3s+ generally and getting near the same quality with everything tuned.

# ? Jul 18, 2022 23:48

smax: Nov 9, 2009

mewse posted:

Do you have any cooling on the pi at all?

Currently no, just a passive heat sink. Thinking about robbing the 30mm fan off of my 4B that isn�t getting much use, but I can�t find a good case that would allow using it on the 3B.

The pi zero setup I�d be using would expose the CPU heat sink for some better cooling and would also have less heat generation, so I�m hoping it�d be able to deal with the heat a bit better.

# ? Jul 19, 2022 01:01

NewFatMike: Jun 11, 2015

big scary monsters posted:

I think there is some tension between two types of 3D printer users ITT. Some like messing around with their printer, tuning and rebuilding and adding custom parts and enjoy that as a hobby in itself. Others just want to be able to make some things out of plastic. Lots of people posting here are the first kind and that's cool, they're interesting machines and I entirely understand why people would find that fun.

But for me the actual fun is in designing and using the plastic bits, and I just want my printer to turn 3D models into physical parts with as little hassle as possible. Since building my Mini+ in March I've probably spent 4 hours in total doing maintenance/tuning stuff. There is more stringing with PETG than I'd like, like I posted about previously, but fixing it seems like too much of a pain in the arse when I mostly print PLA anyway. Otherwise everything works fine and I'm not at all motivated to mess around trying to squeeze extra performance out of the thing, even though I am confident I could do so.

So if you're interested in the nitty gritty of printer firmware and different boards and hot ends and whatever it's no big deal to take the thing entirely to bits or spend an afternoon figuring out config files. But if you just want to see how your incredible design for an overly complex door hinge works in reality and don't care how you get to it that's all sort of tedious.

What the gently caress is this nuanced and true bullshit ???

# ? Jul 19, 2022 01:32

mewse: May 2, 2006

smax posted:

Currently no, just a passive heat sink. Thinking about robbing the 30mm fan off of my 4B that isn�t getting much use, but I can�t find a good case that would allow using it on the 3B.

The pi zero setup I�d be using would expose the CPU heat sink for some better cooling and would also have less heat generation, so I�m hoping it�d be able to deal with the heat a bit better.

I think it's a pretty safe bet that the pi is overheating rather than the einsy. However, many people when they put their printer inside an enclosure, move the electronics + psu outside the enclosure so they don't burn out faster in the heat. Having the printer inside an enclosure *inside* a sweltering garage seems like a recipe to see the issues you're seeing even if the pi is happily saying "oh i'm only at 65C *chuckles* i'm not in danger"

Most people fix voltage warnings on the pi with an official power supply. I know I had a power supply that worked great for a year then started showing the low voltage warning.

I think if you use this case for a 30mm fan and move the pi outside the enclosure it might fix the wacky behavior you're seeing, then you can figure out the direct mount pi zero 2W once you have somewhere cooler to put it:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4463531

# ? Jul 19, 2022 02:00

Rozzbot: Nov 4, 2009; Pork, lamb, chicken and ham

I've got a question about settings in PrusaSlicer.

I'm trying to print directly onto microscope slides so I've designed a file that prints a little holder in each corner, then pauses so I can insert the slide, before it starts again and prints a disc on top of the glass. The discs are 0.1 mm, 0.2 mm and 0.3 mm thick and I'm using a 0.1 mm layer higher.

I'd like to have the 'Hilbert Curve' infill on the tops of the discs, but even when it's set to this, the top-fill of the 0.1 mm thick disc comes out rectilinear. Presumably because this layer has been classed as 'overhang'. Is there a way to change the fill patterns for overhangs? Or is there a better way to go about what I'm trying to achieve here.

It's set to 1 perimeter, 100% infill and Hilbert Curve for the infill pattern and top/bottom infill patterns.

# ? Jul 19, 2022 02:24

Commodore_64: Feb 16, 2011; love thy likpa

My Phrozen Mighty 8k arrived a week ago, I haven't run it yet and want some sort of ventilation or filtration before I do in order to handle the fumes. I've seen some designs using buckets of activated charcoal connected to the electronics fan on similar printers. The build chamber is pretty well "sealed" to the bottom, so I guess having a little negative pressure from the rear fan controls it acceptably. Does anyone here have experience with this sort of setup? I could go full on intake and exhaust from outside the building connecting to the build chamber, piggybacking on my portable AC plate in a nearby window, but I don't like they idea of the resin being essentially whatever temp the outdoors are. It's that or pump my conditioned air out along with the fumes.

# ? Jul 19, 2022 04:28

Beaucoup Haram: Jun 18, 2005

Commodore_64 posted:

My Phrozen Mighty 8k arrived a week ago, I haven't run it yet and want some sort of ventilation or filtration before I do in order to handle the fumes. I've seen some designs using buckets of activated charcoal connected to the electronics fan on similar printers. The build chamber is pretty well "sealed" to the bottom, so I guess having a little negative pressure from the rear fan controls it acceptably. Does anyone here have experience with this sort of setup? I could go full on intake and exhaust from outside the building connecting to the build chamber, piggybacking on my portable AC plate in a nearby window, but I don't like they idea of the resin being essentially whatever temp the outdoors are. It's that or pump my conditioned air out along with the fumes.

I don't have specific resin printing experience but all the FDM guys I know use this or something like it to handle VOC's: https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro

# ? Jul 19, 2022 09:16

Vaporware: May 22, 2004; Still not here yet.

Marsupial Ape posted:

Good to my word, I got stoned and figured out TinkerCad enough to make a tube. TPU came out really sharp.

I eventually want to design an entire shell with yolk for anybody that wants a DIY front address style mic for podcasting or YouTube on the cheap.

came out great!

# ? Jul 19, 2022 11:56

Some Pinko Commie: Jun 9, 2009; CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

smax posted:

Currently no, just a passive heat sink. Thinking about robbing the 30mm fan off of my 4B that isn�t getting much use, but I can�t find a good case that would allow using it on the 3B.

The pi zero setup I�d be using would expose the CPU heat sink for some better cooling and would also have less heat generation, so I�m hoping it�d be able to deal with the heat a bit better.

If ambient is at 60c+ the actual controller is going to get much hotter, no wonder there are performance issues.

# ? Jul 19, 2022 13:03

Marsupial Ape: Dec 15, 2020; the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar

Vaporware posted:

came out great!

The second iteration came out even better. I�m having fun dicking around with TinkerCad. Currently have a �Make� book coming for Fusion 360.

# ? Jul 19, 2022 15:19

RabbitWizard: Oct 21, 2008; Muldoon

poverty goat posted:

Adding weight to the print head will require more torque from the stepper to deliver the same acceleration

With my fan shroud we're talking about like 28 vs 30 grams

Yes, there will be a difference in speed but I'm pretty sure it's not noticeable.

Opinionated posted:

I would definitely never recommend the micro-swiss kit at this point with all the other great direct drive extruders out there.

Good to know.

senrath posted:

That's my understanding as well. Programs like Blender or Zbrush (no comment on either since I haven't personally used them) are better for things like miniatures, but are terrible if you want to design a functional part.

I'm still using Blender for all my stuff as I haven't heard of any good free cad software. Tinkercad is at best supplemental. The only annoyance with Blender is that it doesn't have variables so readjusting for example holes sizes can be a pain in the rear end if you're not preparing your model while building it or import someone elses stl.

But yeah, I'm constantly making GBS threads out functional parts with it. Last one was this which took about an hour. Just boolean around, mostly.

# ? Jul 19, 2022 15:48

bird food bathtub: Aug 9, 2003; College Slice

So, finding an stl that is the alphabet and numbers, that's easy enough. The tricky bit that I'm trying to figure out is; what can be done if I want the text to be recessed in to something I'm making instead of being added on to a surface? I'd like to be able to fill the letters with paint so they stand out on the background without having to worry about the paint chipping or rubbing off.

So far my main tools have been Lychee slicer and Blender. Downloaded FreeCAD last night but haven't even installed it yet. Adulting sucks.

# ? Jul 19, 2022 16:44

RabbitWizard: Oct 21, 2008; Muldoon

bird food bathtub posted:

So, finding an stl that is the alphabet and numbers, that's easy enough. The tricky bit that I'm trying to figure out is; what can be done if I want the text to be recessed in to something I'm making instead of being added on to a surface? I'd like to be able to fill the letters with paint so they stand out on the background without having to worry about the paint chipping or rubbing off.

That's boolean in Blender. You have the letters as a 3D object. You have the surface the letters should go into. Put the letters where you want the recess. Select the part with the surface. Click the little wrench in your object properties. Click "Add Modifier", select "Boolean". Click the "Object" field below, select your letter. Click the little arrow "v" on the top of that setting, select "Apply".

Lemme know if you need more details.

vvvv gently caress video tutorials

RabbitWizard fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Jul 19, 2022

# ? Jul 19, 2022 17:21

Rexxed: May 1, 2010; Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

You can add text with a lot of 3d software. Something like tinkercad should be pretty easy, and there's microsoft 3d builder on the windows store as well. Generally you want to make the text object on the surface and then push it into the item to cut or engrave instead of having it stand out like an emboss.

Blender is pretty bad for CAD work so I'd encourage you to learn something else, but this guy has a video on adding text engrave/emboss with it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_knteCCrEcU

# ? Jul 19, 2022 17:23

bird food bathtub: Aug 9, 2003; College Slice

RabbitWizard posted:

That's boolean in Blender. You have the letters as a 3D object. You have the surface the letters should go into. Put the letters where you want the recess. Select the part with the surface. Click the little wrench in your object properties. Click "Add Modifier", select "Boolean". Click the "Object" field below, select your letter. Click the little arrow "v" on the top of that setting, select "Apply".

Lemme know if you need more details.

That sounds very useful, when I get home hopefully I can follow those steps. Will report back. Didn't even know what the phrase I was looking for was.

Rexxed posted:

You can add text with a lot of 3d software. Something like tinkercad should be pretty easy, and there's microsoft 3d builder on the windows store as well. Generally you want to make the text object on the surface and then push it into the item to cut or engrave instead of having it stand out like an emboss.

Blender is pretty bad for CAD work so I'd encourage you to learn something else, but this guy has a video on adding text engrave/emboss with it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_knteCCrEcU

This seems to be my path forward. Ideally I will keep blender around for stuff like moving or bending a tail, sculpting a scar on someone's face or whatever and then I downloaded FreeCAD for making specifically shaped parts that need to be X size with Y clearance and Z tolerance and whatever.

# ? Jul 19, 2022 17:33

Hopper: Dec 28, 2004; BOOING! BOOING!; Grimey Drawer

Fusion360 has a free license, but I guess you know that. I am currently learning to use it by watching some of the countless YouTube tutorials and it works really well for me.

Granted I am in the baby steps phase still but I never thought I'd be able to use a professional CAD tool to make stuff, and yet I have made some simple things already.

# ? Jul 19, 2022 17:48

Rexxed: May 1, 2010; Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

I picked up Fusion 360 a few years ago before they started adding more and more license restrictions for free use. It's hard to want to recommend it considering how restrictive they've gotten, but at the same time it's pretty good software and it's done well for a lot of folks getting started in more serious CAD due to it having at least some kind of free licensing for personal use. SolidWorks had a few ways for inexpensive education licenses but have cracked down on that apparently.

There's a CAD thread since we ended up talking about it a lot in here:
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3962532

Also a 3D computer graphics thread which will have more blender users (I assume):
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2877226

Also rip sagebrush, not here to tell us about Rhino.

# ? Jul 19, 2022 18:15

Marsupial Ape: Dec 15, 2020; the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar

This is completely like the arguments I see in podcasting creator forums about what DAW (sound editing software) newbies should start out with. It sounds like TinkerCad is equivalent to Audacity: free, deep community support, easy to understand once you gently caress with it for 5 minutes, but is also inherently wrong at how it basically does everything and you should graduate from it before you get bad habits.

# ? Jul 19, 2022 21:05

w00tmonger: Mar 9, 2011; F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

just got my hands on an anycubic kobra max!

Any cool projects floating around that can fully utilize the volcano and its massive 400x400x450 build volume?

# ? Jul 19, 2022 21:41

Some Pinko Commie: Jun 9, 2009; CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

w00tmonger posted:

just got my hands on an anycubic kobra max!

Any cool projects floating around that can fully utilize the volcano and its massive 400x400x450 build volume?

Once upon a time there was a candy vending dispenser people printed.

Is that still around?

# ? Jul 20, 2022 00:59

Hadlock: Nov 9, 2004

Rexxed posted:

Also rip sagebrush, not here to tell us about Rhino.

yeah he hasn't posted here since... checks notes, early may? What happened

# ? Jul 20, 2022 01:06

Marsupial Ape: Dec 15, 2020; the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar

Live the dream a print a single piece Mandalorian helmet.

# ? Jul 20, 2022 01:17

NewFatMike: Jun 11, 2015

OnShape is also a kick rear end web browser based CAD platform. The only catch is that your unlimited files are publicly viewable for the free version.

I like their revision and branch control, too.

# ? Jul 20, 2022 01:49

mewse: May 2, 2006

Hadlock posted:

yeah he hasn't posted here since... checks notes, early may? What happened

I want to see the completion of his motorcycle dash project..

# ? Jul 20, 2022 02:46

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# ? May 30, 2024 09:11

Marsupial Ape: Dec 15, 2020; the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar

Is the dual z axis upgrade for the Ender 3V2 worth the effort. I just learned about it 15 minutes ago and I am an upgrade nerd.

# ? Jul 20, 2022 10:35

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