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Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

Motronic posted:

Find a better arborist.

Seriously, that's not a problem at all to take down. It just needs to be done with a crane, so it's gonna be expensive. Good arborists are completely accustomed to working with cranes.

Again, this is the truth. Find a good arborist and they'll get it down. Just make sure they're licensed and bonded and I would be skeptical of anybody who offers to do this without a crane. Between the roof and the utility lines, its going to be a pricey and delicate job. Not the time to try a budget arborist.

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A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

in a well actually posted:

I’m really surprised the utility wouldn’t remove it. Around here, the local utility will remove anything on three feet either side of local transmission line, and they’ll trim anything within 6’. No matter where you are in the country there’s some weather (ice, hurricane, drought) that’ll drop trees on lines.

Here, they cut back on trimming because homeowners complained, then got sued because they weren’t maintaining the lines, so they’re more proactive now. If you’ve got a lawyer see if they can nastygram them. They presumably have an easement for this purpose anyway. Probably cheaper than an arborist.

I'm seeing what my options are but the utility companies out here really don't give a poo poo. Like, further down that line the insulation is visibly crumbling where it meets the house, which their service guys always comment on whenever we manage to get one, but no traction on getting the company to send someone to actually, y'know, replace it.

Good to know there's someone out there who'll likely handle it, I figured I was just on my own after talking to the local tree guys everyone uses.

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Jul 20, 2022

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

I'm seeing what my options are but the utility companies out here really don't give a poo poo. Like, further down that line the insulation is visibly crumbling where it meets the house, which their service guys always comment on whenever we manage to get one, but no traction on getting the company to send someone to actually, y'know, replace it.

Good to know there's someone out there who'll likely handle it, I figured I was just on my own after talking to the local tree guys everyone uses.

This is how my utility is too. We have power lines literally hanging from tree branches and the last time a utility guy came out to our pole he asked if it had been on fire because the rot is so bad on it but ultimately they decide not to do anything every visit.

in a well actually
Jan 26, 2011

dude, you gotta end it on the rhyme

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

I'm seeing what my options are but the utility companies out here really don't give a poo poo. Like, further down that line the insulation is visibly crumbling where it meets the house, which their service guys always comment on whenever we manage to get one, but no traction on getting the company to send someone to actually, y'know, replace it.

Good to know there's someone out there who'll likely handle it, I figured I was just on my own after talking to the local tree guys everyone uses.

Here, line from pole to house is my problem, pole to pole is theirs. YMMV, of course.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

SpartanIvy posted:

This is how my utility is too. We have power lines literally hanging from tree branches and the last time a utility guy came out to our pole he asked if it had been on fire because the rot is so bad on it but ultimately they decide not to do anything every visit.

After a few years of trying we did finally get a Comcast guy who was appalled they'd just tossed the line up in some bamboo, and escalated our ticket or whatever to the guy in charge of actually attaching lines to poles. I guess maybe the trick is to just keep playing service call roulette until you get a guy who's too new to have embraced nihilism


in a well actually posted:

Here, line from pole to house is my problem, pole to pole is theirs. YMMV, of course.

How's that work? Here they're ostensibly responsible for everything before the breaker box, encouraging people to DIY live wiring they have no way to safely shut off sounds... bad.

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Jul 20, 2022

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

How's that work? Here they're ostensibly responsible for everything before the breaker box, encouraging people to DIY live wiring they have no way to safely shut off sounds... bad.

It works by requiring you to have a licensed electrician do that job so they are specifically NOT encouraging DIY work on nearly unlimited fault current.

What happens is that your licenses electrician arranges with the utility to (re)terminate a new triplex on X date so someone from the utility comes out in a bucket truck and takes the line they've run from the house and attaches it to the pole and transformer.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

The previous owner of my house let a grove of ailanthus get out of hand behind my workshop, to the point it was caving in the walls. I've taken out the ones that were literally growing into the roof but now I have to contend with this:

Power company says they won't touch it until it actually knocks down some lines, every arborist I've spoken to has noped out of the situation (can't blame em), but so long as it's up there it and the root system pushing into the shop are still growing. Any ideas how to take it down without setting my shop on fire/knocking out power for the entire neighborhood?

Can you live without power there for a little bit? Maybe see if you can get the utility to temporarily remove the service drop so you can get the tree down. I imagine without the lines there this would be a lot more straightforward to deal with. Even if the utility charges you to do it, it's gotta be cheaper then getting someone out there with a crane.

Or are those not the lines leading to your shop? It's hard to tell.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

devicenull posted:

Can you live without power there for a little bit? Maybe see if you can get the utility to temporarily remove the service drop so you can get the tree down. I imagine without the lines there this would be a lot more straightforward to deal with. Even if the utility charges you to do it, it's gotta be cheaper then getting someone out there with a crane.

Or are those not the lines leading to your shop? It's hard to tell.

The utility is not going to take down the pole-to-pole going through the middle of the tree. And I assure you that their time costs a lot more than an arborist and crane and they will charge you for anything like that if it's remotely possible to do (and in this case its not).

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


A Wizard of Goatse posted:

The previous owner of my house let a grove of ailanthus get out of hand behind my workshop, to the point it was caving in the walls. I've taken out the ones that were literally growing into the roof but now I have to contend with this:

Power company says they won't touch it until it actually knocks down some lines, every arborist I've spoken to has noped out of the situation (can't blame em), but so long as it's up there it and the root system pushing into the shop are still growing. Any ideas how to take it down without setting my shop on fire/knocking out power for the entire neighborhood?
This is one of those classic homeowner problems where one swipe of preventative maintenance by the PO 20 years ago or 15 minutes of time any time in the first 10 years, could have saved you $5000. It sucks, but yeah, some tree guy, properly licensed and insured, arborist or not, with a crane can safely take that down chunk by chunk, assuming they can get the crane/bucket truck in close enough for access.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

oh it's gonna be more than that lol, the brick wall right there is buckling and twice in the last month the shop's been flooded from water seeping through. This is just buying time to save up for fixing that

A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Jul 21, 2022

Solkanar512
Dec 28, 2006

by the sex ghost
So I recently splurged and bought a Worx Landroid for my lawn. After a week or so of loving around with the boundary wire (and maybe another day or two to fine tune the clearance with the fence and hotbed), it’s amazing. It’s quiet, the software is great, and it has plenty of different levels of automation depending how much time you want to spend scheduling it.



I don’t have to mow my lawn anymore. Sure, I accidentally mowed on its lowest setting and now the backyard looks like a dead golf course, but gently caress grass and I didn’t do any work. I have a drain field in the back yard, so the grass grows really unevenly and I have to otherwise mow it frequently.

It just does it for me. I still have to trim from time to time, but that's fine. It’s not the smartest thing out there, but it works and has a very active modification community as well. Even the customer service is great - I had a wheel come off for a dumb reason, and they emails me an assembly diagram so I could ensure I repaired it properly. Who does that?

Anyway, if you’ve ever been curious about having a lawn roomba, let me know.



My cat being very concerned about the new, orange predator in his back yard.

Solkanar512 fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Jul 21, 2022

Progressive JPEG
Feb 19, 2003

in a well actually posted:

Here, line from pole to house is my problem, pole to pole is theirs. YMMV, of course.

I'd always assumed it was utility's responsibility until it got to the weatherhead, but I also haven't needed to find out. Although I did once have PG&E reconnect the service ground/neutral on the pole-to-house line when it had come off in a storm.


Also for OP/PO, have you considered switching to a trenched service line instead of an overhead one? I guess this would be as good a time as any to switch...

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Progressive JPEG posted:

I'd always assumed it was utility's responsibility until it got to the weatherhead, but I also haven't needed to find out. Although I did once have PG&E reconnect the service ground/neutral on the pole-to-house line when it had come off in a storm.


Also for OP/PO, have you considered switching to a trenched service line instead of an overhead one? I guess this would be as good a time as any to switch...

That diagram is correct for some utility companies in some locations and some situations. There should be an entire page of "*" and "**", etc on the back of that.

blugu64
Jul 17, 2006

Do you realize that fluoridation is the most monstrously conceived and dangerous communist plot we have ever had to face?

Lincoln posted:

I just read this entire post, and it's a rambling mess. Basically, I need recommendations for grass seed to overseed my lawn over several seasons as part of a long-term rehab.

I'm trying to find a source of reliable "Texas Fescue" or "Texas Bluegrass" seed. They are/it is somewhat new, so there's not a lot of info out there. Theoretically, it's fine-bladed and dark, much like Kentucky Bluegrass, but it withstands hotter temps and is more drought-resistant. All are important to me.

Short version: I bought a house a year ago in the Texas panhandle (zone 7a), and the lawn was poo poo. Still is, frankly, just a better grade of poo poo. We have a mish-mash of fescues, Bermuda, ryes, bent grass (we're on a golf course), crabgrass and God knows what else. Previous owners didn't give a poo poo about their lawn. I'm working on displacing it —according my original plan— with some sort of turf-type tall fescue. I overseeded last fall with a 80/20 TTTF/KBG blend, and the results were good, though obviously not complete. This is a multi-year rehab project. (I'm treating with pre-emergent in spring & early summer to kill off the crabgrass)

My next-door neighbors have a very fine-bladed, deep green turf that looks about one trillion times better than mine, yet we water the same amount. My lawn guy says, "that's fescue," but he doesn't know any more than that. In this part of the world, you have either fescue, a fescue/KGB blend, or Bermudagrass. Nothing else withstands the heat and lack of water. And before you suggest it, Buffalograss is not an option. I wish it was. Put it out of your mind. Ditto xeriscaping.

What the gently caress do my neighbors have? This is them:



This is me:



Photos were taken about 10 feet apart. Same guy mows our lawns.

As much as I don't want to keep up with the Jonses, I want to keep up with the Jonses. My lawn is one of the worst on the block. That photo is basically the best spot of my side yard. Again: I'm patient, and I'm willing to undergo a multi-season rehab. But the choice of seed is overwhelming, and pretty much all of them sell themselves as "deep green, fine bladed, drought-resistant, blah-blah." I WANT ANSWERS.

Google KBG SPF30. There’s a lawnforum thread about the stuff and it looks awesome.

Smugworth
Apr 18, 2003


What can you do for a lawn if you have a back yard with dogs up north?

Last year we got a fence installed and another dog. After the snow thawed this winter I was left with urine burns all over that left huge bare spots. With watering, cutting the grass high, and milorganite, the grass has sprung back somewhat or at least hides the bare spots, but I have fescue up here in MN so the holes aren't exactly going to close up quickly.

I used to water after our first dog peed, but that negates the benefits of a fence and is untenable for two dogs.

I do not have a sprinkler system but it would own if I did, I drag sprinklers around now just to keep the lawn healthy and it does help water in the pee.

I don't trust any additives or supplements that purport to eliminate the excess salts from dog urine, they sound like snake oil. Is there low salt food that could help?

I can't force my dogs to drink more water...

I'm aware I could try and train them to pee in a certain spot but that seems hard, I really like letting them run around and chase each other in the back yard.

I feel like I could maybe overseed but not having a sprinkler system is going to make that tough, and the dogs will trample young grass.

Just looking for ideas.

Here's my poor lawn, it's lush and green but the patches make me sad

Smugworth fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Jul 24, 2022

unlimited shrimp
Aug 30, 2008
I'm looking to buy a utility trailer.

It will be used to...
- haul wood to the tree disposal
- haul things to the dump
- pick up compost and straw bales 1-2x per year
- maybe move my riding mower around / take it in for servicing
- occasionally haul rented equipment like a rear tine tiller or log splitter

I'm considering this one:


It's a 5x10 with 2' sides and D-rings along the bottom of the interior walls. I thought the high sides would be better for hauling the wood and compost. Any advice or input?

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?
Wood and gravel might take you well over the load capacity of that trailer. Compost and light stuff should be fine.

TacoHavoc
Dec 31, 2007
It's taco-y and havoc-y...at the same time!
I typically see trailers that size with a 2000 or 3000 lb gross weight rating. It probably weights about 700 lbs, so gross weight - trailer weight = weight you can haul. I wouldn't get a 2000 lb rated trailer if I was planning to move any appreciable amount of material.

If that's a 3k trailer, I think it'll work well for your usage.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Hey goons. Why is my yard dead? This isn't the typical "oh its hot and I've gone dormant" this is "my hair is all falling out due to radiation exposure" except grass.



This is all in the area that was under asphalt last year; we tore all that out, spread 4 inches of asphalt and seeded last September. It looked magnificent this spring and in early June started browning. It's almost like it got cut at ground level, it's like a loose mat.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Where do you live? Have you had basically no rain and a ton of heat also? On not even year old grass that will do it. Especially depending on seed mix. What did you seed with? Was it all cool season?

Smugworth
Apr 18, 2003


Yea, I'm guessing new grass without established roots. Even established grass needs plenty of water to stay green in the summer.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Alexandria, VA, zone 7b. Much wetter than average this year, and cooler than average too.

Naturally that means I haven't watered the lawn, so I guess it could have been heat stress. Those dead patches are full sun.

It was a bag of Scott's turf builder. I am open to other seed suggestions, doesn't even have to be grass! I hate turf and would gladly plant a substitute. I'm planning on making more raised beds so maybe I'll just mulch the whole yard.

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

I don’t know how different VA was than Southeast PA but we just got done with a brutal stretch of dry days and a month of really high temps. If you also haven’t been watering… yeah.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Accidentally watered my lawn for several hours.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

NomNomNom posted:

Accidentally watered my lawn for several hours.


Reminds me of a podcast I was listening to where they were talking about how you needed to water your lawn until there was an inch of water on top of it.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer


How likely is it that this 14 inch sinkhole is caused entirely by the downspout next to it? I've already relocated the downspout, but wondering how big of an issue this is.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

devicenull posted:

How likely is it that this 14 inch sinkhole is caused entirely by the downspout next to it?

0%

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Fuckkk

Well, it's either a problem with the sewer drain (about two feet to the left)... that's getting dug up in replaced in about a week, or the stream around ~50ft away is somehow causing it.

Part of the sewer includes a mystery Y that heads in that direction, so *maybe* they just did a poo poo job capping the old septic line years ago?

There's a break in the sewer line, but it's on the other end of the house around 40 ft away, so I doubt that's directly related...

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Yeah, sorry....that's just gonna need some digging to find out.

A downspout isn't going to magically wash out a 14" column of soil next to it with no trace of where it went to. That poo poo is disappearing underground and going elsewhere.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer


Green is known sewer line - there's a weird Y fitting around where that question mark is that we couldn't get a camera down to tell where the hell it went.

Fingers crossed they just poorly capped the Y when they removed the septic, and that's where all the water/soil is going.

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

Can anyone give me the skinny on pre-emergent? Is it safe to use in areas I never expect to make a garden? My understanding is that it changes the ph of the soil, is that correct? Or is it some heinous concoction that’s the equivalent of salting the earth?

If it’s not the latter, are there any the thread recommends? Ty in advance!

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Ubiquitus posted:

Can anyone give me the skinny on pre-emergent? Is it safe to use in areas I never expect to make a garden? My understanding is that it changes the ph of the soil, is that correct? Or is it some heinous concoction that’s the equivalent of salting the earth?

If it’s not the latter, are there any the thread recommends? Ty in advance!
I don't know about it changing the pH of the soil. Changing pH is usually pretty difficult to do without large quantities of Stuff. I think they just make seeds either fail to germinate or die rapidly after germination by stunting root growth. I've only used Preen on occasion ad haven't had any problems with it. I think it lasts 4 months or so? I don't think a pre-emergent is going to cause problems 6 months from now.

Ghost Cactus
Dec 25, 2006
What is this and how/when do I prune it?





It’s in front of a house in zone 5b.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

I don't remember what those are called but you can absolutely brutalize them with hedge trimmers and saws. Providing you cut branches back and leave 1/2" in front of each node and leave enough they will bounce back to their new size and shape in a year. Two at most.

They largely seem unkillable. And often way too big and out of control - because they need to be brutalized regularly.

Fitzy Fitz
May 14, 2005




Do the leaves turn bright red in the fall? It looks like Euonymus alatus / burning bush. Invasive in some areas if you're not attached to it.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
According to the awesome app Seek, it's a Winged Euonymus

Ghost Cactus
Dec 25, 2006

Motronic posted:

I don't remember what those are called but you can absolutely brutalize them with hedge trimmers and saws. Providing you cut branches back and leave 1/2" in front of each node and leave enough they will bounce back to their new size and shape in a year. Two at most.

They largely seem unkillable. And often way too big and out of control - because they need to be brutalized regularly.

Great - we will give it a major haircut. It’s invading the neighbor’s well-manicured drive and I feel bad.

Thanks everyone!

vs Dinosaurs
Mar 14, 2009
Can you rototill dead grass into the soil if you are planning to start anew and reseed?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





vs Dinosaurs posted:

Can you rototill dead grass into the soil if you are planning to start anew and reseed?

I'd start with weed killer first and then till it up, but yes - I did that when restarting the two pasture areas at my house that were almost entirely weeds by the end of last summer. Roundup, wait a couple weeks, rototiller, seed/fertilizer, a fuckload of water.

The only thing I probably should have done differently was waiting a bit longer after tilling and hitting it with more Roundup to make sure everything was dead, but I managed to get far enough along on the grass to hit it with 2,4-D and kill the majority of the weeds trying to come back (purselane and puncturevine) without hurting the grass too much. That, and I didn't do a great job of leveling things out, but it's also going to be left unmowed most of the time so it's fine either way.

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vs Dinosaurs
Mar 14, 2009
Thanks for the advice. Internet says waiting days not weeks before tilling, which is better for my schedule.

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