Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

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BonoMan: Feb 20, 2002; Jade Ear Joe

Basic Poster posted:

Yeah, it's really just about the piece and the age of the place. Canned lights and sun tubes look pretty modern and lack the cool prismatic effects of...well, a prism. If you've been in a boat with one on a sunny day, it's quite a wonderful light source.

With a sun tube, they also put a while in your roof and I agree the inner tube is polished of chromed or aluminized mylar or something which is all fine, I just was thinking of putting a different lens on the business end.

The one I saw did have some sort of bug-eye style prism thing on the end of it. Basically it did not look at all like the downlight styles I see in modern ones. The end of it looked like a thick glass circle comprised of 4 smaller thick glass circles (but the entire thing was glass... so like the bug eye effect I mentioned).

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Jul 21, 2022

# ? Jul 21, 2022 20:53

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# ? May 30, 2024 19:46

Darchangel: Feb 12, 2009; Tell him about the blower!

PremiumSupport posted:

This.

I personally wouldn't worry about having to rewire to go back to fluorescent as I would never go back. It's more about how comfortable you are with safely bypassing the ballast in the first place. Direct replacements are nice if they work, but you're leaving a point of failure (the ballast) in the circuit.

Oh, absolutely!
I gave up on most of the fixtures entirely (garage) and just bought 4' LED "tube" lights and daisy-chained them. I tried the replacement bulbs first, though, which of course pointed me to the way I went, since I was not married to the fixtures I was using.

# ? Jul 21, 2022 21:05

BonoMan: Feb 20, 2002; Jade Ear Joe

Hot water heater questions:

1.) What are the metal wires coming off these pipes? Google tells me bonding wires? (but they seem to generally go from one pipe to to the other while one of mine goes into the ceiling and one to the inside of the wall). Grounds?

2.) I am trying to seal obvious holes around the house - mainly for bug incursion. This is actually on an internal wall (hot water heater and washer dryer are in a bathroom). I have some fireblock spray foam lyin' around... can I use that?

# ? Jul 21, 2022 22:21

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

BonoMan posted:

Hot water heater questions:

1.) What are the metal wires coming off these pipes? Google tells me bonding wires? (but they seem to generally go from one pipe to to the other while one of mine goes into the ceiling and one to the inside of the wall). Grounds?

2.) I am trying to seal obvious holes around the house - mainly for bug incursion. This is actually on an internal wall (hot water heater and washer dryer are in a bathroom). I have some fireblock spray foam lyin' around... can I use that?

1.) I can't see where the one in the back goes/comes. The one in the front is not a wire. It's a saddle valve (that will start leaking at some point) feeding your........ice maker? Humidifier?
2.) Yes.

# ? Jul 21, 2022 22:29

Beef Of Ages: Jan 11, 2003; Your dumb is leaking.

I bet it's supposed to be a ground, but no telling from that picture if it actually is or not.

# ? Jul 21, 2022 22:40

PremiumSupport: Aug 17, 2015

The back pipe looks to me like a gas line. I'd guess grounding wire for that one.

# ? Jul 21, 2022 22:44

BonoMan: Feb 20, 2002; Jade Ear Joe

Awesome thanks. No idea where that saddle valve goes to. No humidifier and definitely not the fridge. It goes straight into the ceiling so hopefully I can pop up in the attic and figure it out.

I love how Motronic was just talking about saddle valves and the poo poo they can cause and then I'm like "hey what's this?" and of course it's a saddle valve.

edit: in the home zone thread, not this one.

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Jul 21, 2022

# ? Jul 21, 2022 23:14

Basic Poster: May 11, 2015; Those who can make you believe absurdities can make you commit atrocities.

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BonoMan posted:

The one I saw did have some sort of bug-eye style prism thing on the end of it. Basically it did not look at all like the downlight styles I see in modern ones. The end of it looked like a thick glass circle comprised of 4 smaller thick glass circles (but the entire thing was glass... so like the bug eye effect I mentioned).

Yeah! They make them in all kinds of shapes. Well, a few. Some are extruded triangle, others are concentric rings, or the real fancy bejazzled style.

It's a bit much I know but if the world is being this lovely and impermanent than I'm gonna be fussy about lighting solutions because gently caress it.

# ? Jul 21, 2022 23:48

actionjackson: Jan 12, 2003

I got this quiet panasonic fan (https://www.build.com/panasonic-fv-0510vs1/s1286588?uid=3162516&null) to replace my broan one (https://www.broan-nutone.com/en-us/product/ventilationfans/688), unfortunately it looks like all the panasonic ones have the duct connection and the wiring on the same side, whereas my duct is on the opposite side of the wiring (the wiring is coming from the bottom in the pic).

Do I have to get a fan with the duct and wiring on the opposite sides (and preferably on the left side as you are looking at the wall) - like https://www.broan-nutone.com/en-us/product/ventilationfans/lp50100dc - obviously the hole in the wall would have to be increased in size by about an inch on each side

the other question would be removing the existing box. The stud is on the right side, which is fine, but it's unclear whether it's attached on the top or not.

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actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Jul 22, 2022

# ? Jul 22, 2022 16:50

DaveSauce: Feb 15, 2004; Oh, how awkward.

If you have attic access you can use a handy box to extend the wires. That's what I ended up having to do when I put in a new bathroom fan for the exact same reason.

If you don't have attic access, you could put a box in the ceiling, but the downside is it'll have to be accessible, which means you'll have a box cover on your ceiling. If you don't care about looks that's certainly the easiest option.

Otherwise, you'll need to run a new cable back to the switch/wherever. Probably the least desirable option.

# ? Jul 22, 2022 17:01

actionjackson: Jan 12, 2003

i'm in a condo

i'd be fine with the broan upgrade, it also says for 2x4 construction, with this unit being 4" deep, while my current one is 3 5/8" deep. I'm on the phone with them to make sure it's compatible.

edit: they said it was, I emailed more info to my electrician. Since the stud and the duct presumably do not move, I assume he would cut open drywall just on the left and bottom sides.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Jul 22, 2022

# ? Jul 22, 2022 17:04

Jerk Burger: Jul 4, 2003; King of the Monkeys

I am putting up a partition wall to split a long room into 2 rooms. It's a converted garage that has a brick wall between the existing room and the rest of the house, and there is only one location that the partition wall can go as the current 3 panel sliding doorway thru the bricks are just enough width to fit 2 doors and the width of the partition wall with a smidge of wiggle room.

However, the opposite external wall that the new partition wall will meet has a solar inverter and breakers on the outside face directly in line, with wiring between the bricks and the internal drywall that goes up into the roof (unsure how much the wire could hang down). The inverter is around 1/2 up the wall.

i.e.

code:

Top view:
                           || <- existing external wall
                           ||
=====new partition wall====||[] <- solar inverter mounted outside, DC & 240V wiring in wall
                           ||
                           ||

What's my best option here? I was worried that it the partition wall is only secured along the top and bottom that it could move/flex and cause cracks along the drywall corner where the partition wall drywall meets the existing wall.

I'm also considering if I could remove part of the existing drywall beneath the inverter location to put some framing timber in there attached the the brick wall, then attach the partition frame to that, but if I can get away with not touching the existing external wall that would be nice. Could I just use adhesive to 'attach' the end of the framing, or would it be fine just secured top and bottom?

# ? Jul 22, 2022 17:19

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

You shouldn't be putting up a partition wall that isn't tied into the sole and sill plates of the wall it T's in to. So you need to remove drywall, tie things in properly, and add one or more appropriate studs so you have something to attach the sheet stock to.

None of this should be an issue with wiring inside the existing wall, but it does necessitate exposing it.

# ? Jul 22, 2022 17:31

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

actionjackson posted:

I got this quiet panasonic fan (https://www.build.com/panasonic-fv-0510vs1/s1286588?uid=3162516&null) to replace my broan one (https://www.broan-nutone.com/en-us/product/ventilationfans/688), unfortunately it looks like all the panasonic ones have the duct connection and the wiring on the same side, whereas my duct is on the opposite side of the wiring (the wiring is coming from the bottom in the pic).

Do I have to get a fan with the duct and wiring on the opposite sides (and preferably on the left side as you are looking at the wall) - like https://www.broan-nutone.com/en-us/product/ventilationfans/lp50100dc - obviously the hole in the wall would have to be increased in size by about an inch on each side

the other question would be removing the existing box. The stud is on the right side, which is fine, but it's unclear whether it's attached on the top or not.

You would only need to get a fan with the duct and wiring on the opposite sides if your house's existing romex wire was too short and couldn't be re-routed to connect to the "new" Panasonic's style. I recently put in a bunch of these same types of fans and I had to extend my romex wire with a junction box, which is another option but might be beyond your capabilities depending on your level of comfort with wiring

As for removing it- it could go many ways. Panasonic fans use their Flex-Z bracket system which is good but fairly new and makes Panasonic-to-Panasonic swapouts pretty easy. But the older Broan fans had their own bracket system. They were mostly terrible.

Some bath fans have no bracket and sometimes get installed before the drywall goes up and screwed directly into the stud where it may not be easily accessible for removal because gently caress you. This is likely to be the case if you live in a condo full of builder grade installations

melon cat fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Jul 22, 2022

# ? Jul 22, 2022 23:44

actionjackson: Jan 12, 2003

yeah it's a condo and it was put in before the drywall, but the bottom screw is accessible at least. I would assume the drywall in the top right of the previous image would need to be cut out a bit to access the top screw. also I think the duct on the new fan will not match up perfectly with the wall duct since this unit is a bit wider, so I suppose flexible ducting will be used.

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actionjackson fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Jul 23, 2022

# ? Jul 23, 2022 01:21

Gothmog1065: May 14, 2009

Horizontal boring question. I've got 2 projects for this, one is a simple sidewalk bore for some electrical to an outside plug. Easy enough with the SCH40 pipe and shove it through, etc.

My main question is that I am wanting to put in a drain for a small pond we have. When it rains, under the liner fills up with water, and pushes the pondwater out. I did put some rocks down, but I have a feeling the constant liner movemnt has caused a small tear and the liner leaks out. The pond is about 8' away from my driveway which slopes down into the road, so there's a bit of a hill and slope where I can put a drainpipe. The issue is getting the bore to 4" for the drainpipe I am going to put in. I figured step 1 is to do a basic bore with the pipe to create the hole, but how would I clean it out to fit the drainpipe? Would someing like [url="https://www.amazon.com/Millie-Pressure-Stainless-Durable-Connector/dp/B08T5VKX96["]this[/url] on my pressure washer work, or is there something better I could use? I do have a standard home 3200 PSI pressure washer.

# ? Jul 23, 2022 17:26

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Gothmog1065 posted:

Horizontal boring question. I've got 2 projects for this, one is a simple sidewalk bore for some electrical to an outside plug. Easy enough with the SCH40 pipe and shove it through, etc.

My main question is that I am wanting to put in a drain for a small pond we have. When it rains, under the liner fills up with water, and pushes the pondwater out. I did put some rocks down, but I have a feeling the constant liner movemnt has caused a small tear and the liner leaks out. The pond is about 8' away from my driveway which slopes down into the road, so there's a bit of a hill and slope where I can put a drainpipe. The issue is getting the bore to 4" for the drainpipe I am going to put in. I figured step 1 is to do a basic bore with the pipe to create the hole, but how would I clean it out to fit the drainpipe? Would someing like [url="https://www.amazon.com/Millie-Pressure-Stainless-Durable-Connector/dp/B08T5VKX96["]this[/url] on my pressure washer work, or is there something better I could use? I do have a standard home 3200 PSI pressure washer.

I don't think I've ever heard of anyone doing DIY horizontal boring. Sounds cool and good luck, but boring a 4" hole over 8' sounds like a mess that isn't actually gonna go where you want it to. Trenching is the more usual way to DIY something like that.

# ? Jul 23, 2022 18:09

wesleywillis: Dec 30, 2016; SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Gothmog1065 posted:

Horizontal boring question. I've got 2 projects for this, one is a simple sidewalk bore for some electrical to an outside plug. Easy enough with the SCH40 pipe and shove it through, etc.

My main question is that I am wanting to put in a drain for a small pond we have. When it rains, under the liner fills up with water, and pushes the pondwater out. I did put some rocks down, but I have a feeling the constant liner movemnt has caused a small tear and the liner leaks out. The pond is about 8' away from my driveway which slopes down into the road, so there's a bit of a hill and slope where I can put a drainpipe. The issue is getting the bore to 4" for the drainpipe I am going to put in. I figured step 1 is to do a basic bore with the pipe to create the hole, but how would I clean it out to fit the drainpipe? Would someing like [url="https://www.amazon.com/Millie-Pressure-Stainless-Durable-Connector/dp/B08T5VKX96["]this[/url] on my pressure washer work, or is there something better I could use? I do have a standard home 3200 PSI pressure washer.

There might be places around that you can rent this. https://www.littlebeaver.com/horizontal-boring/
What type of soil, how long do you need these to be, how deep?

Don't forget to call 811 or whatever the gently caress your local one call poo poo is.
Even if you're only going a foot deep, some utilities are buried shallow as gently caress.

E: ok, one is 8 feet long. other questions still stand.

# ? Jul 23, 2022 18:58

actionjackson: Jan 12, 2003

I wanted to ask another question about the fan. So this one is compatible with my space

https://www.build.com/broan-lp50100dc/s1657515?uid=3920539&searchId=sJn00tpWzz

for this one, I think the 80 CFM version is basically the same as 80 CFM on the first one - all the dimensions and such are the same?

i.e. 11.375x10.5x4, both with 4" ducting

https://www.build.com/broan-lp80/s785752?uid=2025619

are 4 to 3" duct adapters universal or will only certain ones work with certain brands?

I found a video where someone upgraded basically the same one, and the only cut the drywall to the left and bottom, since you can't change where the duct is, and you can't change where the stud is. so something like this (not to scale). but you would have to figure out a way to access the unscrew the box from the duct in the top right

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# ? Jul 23, 2022 20:31

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Not sure if 4� oval to 3� round adapters are universal but in my area Panasonic is literally the only manufacturer that makes them. Chances are that you�ll have to tape it all together anyways (as in tape the adapter to the bath fan discharge pipe) so I�d just try it anyway. I got the Panasonic brand adapter for my Panasonic low profile fan and even though it was the same brand the adapter didn�t snap on perfectly or anything.

And yes you�ll have to figure out a way to access the screws so you can unscrew the old unit. And if the condo builder put the bath fan in first then the drywall on top of it you will likely need to cut out a larger hole to access the screws. Don�t cut too big of a hole unless you are 100% sure you need to otherwise you�ll find yourself having to patch up the hole if it can�t be covered by your new bath fan plastic cover. Ask me how I know :suicide:

melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Jul 23, 2022

# ? Jul 23, 2022 20:47

actionjackson: Jan 12, 2003

I have this universal cover which is 12x12, so it should cover that up

the bottom screw can already be accessed, you can see it in the bottom right (arrow pointing to it)

edit: called them and they said I should only use the LP80 with the reducer, 100 CFM is too much to use with a 3" duct. So it looks like the LP80 is my choice. Ideally they calculated I'd want 93 CFM, so I'll just have to leave it on a bit longer - but still much less than my current fan, and much quieter.

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Jul 23, 2022

# ? Jul 23, 2022 21:03

actionjackson: Jan 12, 2003

is there a way to know if my duct pipe is rigid or flexible? if it's rigid and the new fan duct doesn't match up perfectly, is that foil material used?

# ? Jul 23, 2022 23:12

Gothmog1065: May 14, 2009

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I don't think I've ever heard of anyone doing DIY horizontal boring. Sounds cool and good luck, but boring a 4" hole over 8' sounds like a mess that isn't actually gonna go where you want it to. Trenching is the more usual way to DIY something like that.

Yeah I was trying to avoid that to not destroy the rock formation and be lazy, plus the fact that the trench will be 4 or 5' deep or so, just a big pain in the rear end really. Here have a lovely mspaint drawing to kind of sketch out what I'm looking at:

Ambassadorofsodomy posted:

There might be places around that you can rent this. https://www.littlebeaver.com/horizontal-boring/
What type of soil, how long do you need these to be, how deep?

Clay, as stated above 4' deep or so. 8-13' long but it'll be closer to 8. Will drop my slope some (1.5% or so), but not out of drain territory, and it's short enough to not be a problem to fix.

quote:

Don't forget to call 811 or whatever the gently caress your local one call poo poo is.

Thankfully I do know where the location of all my utilities are. Power and internet are on the opposite side of the house, and water runs on the side of the pond I'm not working on.

# ? Jul 23, 2022 23:26

Gothmog1065: May 14, 2009

Didn't post my lovely mspaint. Here is my lovely mspaint.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

# ? Jul 23, 2022 23:29

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

Gothmog1065 posted:

Yeah I was trying to avoid that to not destroy the rock formation and be lazy, plus the fact that the trench will be 4 or 5' deep or so, just a big pain in the rear end really. Here have a lovely mspaint drawing to kind of sketch out what I'm looking at:

Have you considered renting a Ditch Witch trencher? This is exactly what they are used for. And I don't know if you have ever dug 4 feet deep in clay-heavy dirt by hand but I can tell you firsthand that it sucks and takes a lot of work. But maybe you're down for that idk

actionjackson posted:

is there a way to know if my duct pipe is rigid or flexible? if it's rigid and the new fan duct doesn't match up perfectly, is that foil material used?

If you don't have attic access (which you won't since you said this is a condo unit) the only way to find this out is to remove the old bath vent and see for yourself. Because when you successfully remove the bath fan screws you'll just give the old fan pull and end up disconnecting it from the ductwork anyway.

Or you could cut a small peep hole nearby so you can take a look, but then you'll have another hole to patch up.

And yeah if it's rigid ducting and the new fan duct doesn't match up you'll either need to modify the rigid ducting to extend or shorten it enough to fit. I don't know enough about ducting to make specific suggestions on this since I was lucky enough to be able replace my ducting completely with my bath fan replacements. But I'm going to bet that your condo builder probably used some sort of cheap flexible ducting.

melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jul 24, 2022

# ? Jul 24, 2022 00:05

floWenoL: Oct 23, 2002

floWenoL posted:

So I've been trying to beef up my front door, but ran into a problem when trying to add a hinge guard to the lowest hinge:

As you can see, the gap at the bottom is somewhat narrow, and when the strike plate is there, it causes the door to rub on the upper left when closing, and it makes opening the door somewhat hard to do.

Here's a picture of the whole door:

One option is to widen the gap by shimming the bottom hinge, but I feel like that would just run into the same problem of making the door rub on the upper left. In fact, I already had to shim the top hinge, since replacing the hinge screws with longer ones caused it to tighten up at the upper right corner.

I think the door frame itself is a bit out of true, since it seems like the gap on the right is thin at the top, thick in the middle, but thinnest at the bottom.

Another option I'm considering is sanding/chiseling the jamb in the lower right to create a gap that the hinge guard could fit into. But I want to be sure I've considered all options before doing something destructive.

Also for reference, here's a pic of another hinge guard on the middle hinge, which seems to fit fine:

(I also have a diagram of some gap measurements I made with calipers, but I'm not sure how much more helpful it would be over the full door pic above.)

Anyone else have any better ideas than removing some wood from the jamb?

Okay, to follow up on this, after someone commented that it was probably a steel door, I went back and checked and I'm 90% sure that it is. :eng99:

So i can't really do anything to the door itself.

However, I wanted to figure out what exactly was crooked, so I got a laser level. Based on this picture, it seems like the head jamb is level (but not the top of the door):

However, it seems like the side jambs are out of plumb:

Namely, they're leaning to the right.

Based on that, it seems to me that even if I were able to shim the bottom hinge and shave the top of the door, that would make the door more out of plumb. Of course, the ideal solution would be to reinstall the side jambs to be plumb, but I'm no carpenter and I don't know if I want to hire someone to do that. So maybe my only option is to shave/chisel off some wood from the lower right around the bottom hinge.

Does that sound right? Is there anything else I'm missing?

# ? Jul 24, 2022 00:14

CRUSTY MINGE: Mar 30, 2011; Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur

Throw a magnet on the door to confirm if it's steel.

At this point, you might just call a handyman or door company. Can't be more than a few hours work for professionals to fix that. Clearly it's bothersome enough that it would probably be worth the money for you.

But planing the frame would be the cheap way to fix it.

# ? Jul 24, 2022 00:35

Gothmog1065: May 14, 2009

melon cat posted:

Have you considered renting a Ditch Witch trencher? This is exactly what they are used for. And I don't know if you have ever dug 4 feet deep in clay-heavy dirt by hand but I can tell you firsthand that it sucks and takes a lot of work. But maybe you're down for that idk

The only problem with machinery is fitting it in the driveway since my driveway is cut into the hill down to the road. Basically it was on a slight hill, and when the state came in and widened it to a 4 lane, they did the standard cut and fill to make the highway as flat as possible, and they installed the driveway. I could use a mini excavator for that most likely since it can swivel. I guess I could find some other work to do with it to make it worth the rental for it.

# ? Jul 24, 2022 00:49

wesleywillis: Dec 30, 2016; SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Sounds like either a small trencher or a mini ex is the way to go. Trenchers can be pretty small and thus shouldn't have a problem going up your driveway, but if there are a few other tasks you can do with the mini ex, then you might as well rent that.

# ? Jul 24, 2022 01:29

actionjackson: Jan 12, 2003

this video seems to be upgrading from the same fan as mine. At 14:10 that's flexible ducting correct? he's pretty much doing the same upgrade I would awnt to do as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzogRM-E_sU

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Jul 24, 2022

# ? Jul 24, 2022 03:58

Teabag Dome Scandal: Mar 19, 2002

I'm replacing a ceiling fan and it seems like the box is a hair too small for the new mounting bracket? Maybe half an inch too small for the new one to line up with the holes. I assume this means the box needs to be replaced. It looks like there are two bolts in the center of the box attached to something? I'm not sure if there is something spanning two joists or what and they're attached to that? I circled where they are since its hard to see through the wires. I'm hoping whatever I need to do can be done from below.

edit: looking at replacement boxes makes it seem like it might not be easy to tell how this is attached since a lot of them are attached like this

Teabag Dome Scandal fucked around with this message at 04:49 on Jul 24, 2022

# ? Jul 24, 2022 03:59

melon cat: Jan 21, 2010; Nap Ghost

actionjackson posted:

this video seems to be upgrading from the same fan as mine. At 14:10 that's flexible ducting correct? he's pretty much doing the same upgrade I would awnt to do as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzogRM-E_sU

Yes that is flexible ducting. Do note that the guy in the video has duct tape on his ducting. Despite its name that is the wrong tape. Foil tape is what you want.

# ? Jul 24, 2022 14:57

actionjackson: Jan 12, 2003

if I have rigid ducting, since the new fan is bigger, the duct on the fan might be a bit more to the left (small orange box vs. small black box) - what happens in this case? can that foil be used to bridge the connection?

# ? Jul 24, 2022 16:56

poverty goat: Feb 15, 2004

I got one of these refurb dehumidifiers for $120: https://www.woot.com/offers/midea-50pt-cube-smart-dehumidifier-w-pump-2

The problem is, mine has a very slow leak, and upon closer inspection it has two hairline cracks in the bottom of the reservoir (only one of them is leaking at this time):

I'm waiting to hear back from woot but it was cheap enough that I'm weighing options to fix it in case they tell me they can only offer a refund, not a replacement. Is there a good way to glue something like this, that I can trust to hold a while in the bottom of a 5 gal container that will be repeatedly filled/drained with water? Replacing the tub as spare parts from the manufacturer is $64+shipping and it's out of stock. Superglue? Epoxy? Flex Seal? Heat gun? It's ABS.

poverty goat fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Jul 26, 2022

# ? Jul 26, 2022 18:39

TooMuchAbstraction: Oct 14, 2012; I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.; Fun Shoe

I'd use epoxy, personally. In theory you can weld plastic together with superglue, but I've never had much success when I've tried. Something you can just glop over the joint is a lot easier. Just make sure to clean and dry the surfaces beforehand.

# ? Jul 26, 2022 18:45

Khizan: Jul 30, 2013

And if the plastic's really smooth give it a bit of a scuff with some fine sandpaper first.

# ? Jul 26, 2022 19:03

CRUSTY MINGE: Mar 30, 2011; Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur

Use some of that flex seal poo poo?

# ? Jul 26, 2022 19:11

Jenkl: Aug 5, 2008; This post needs at least three times more shit!

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I'd use epoxy, personally. In theory you can weld plastic together with superglue, but I've never had much success when I've tried. Something you can just glop over the joint is a lot easier. Just make sure to clean and dry the surfaces beforehand.

Just echoing this. Super glue and plastic are finnicky in my experience. Epoxy is ole faithful. Easy and reliable IMO.

# ? Jul 26, 2022 19:27

poverty goat: Feb 15, 2004

if I can find some sacrificial ABS around I might try this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4LoMJGfhzg

# ? Jul 26, 2022 19:59

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# ? May 30, 2024 19:46

Wallet: Jun 19, 2006

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I'd use epoxy, personally. In theory you can weld plastic together with superglue, but I've never had much success when I've tried. Something you can just glop over the joint is a lot easier. Just make sure to clean and dry the surfaces beforehand.

Why not just use silicone?

# ? Jul 26, 2022 23:38

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Fix It Fast: Start here for DIY help! (You'll know when it's a problem by smell.)

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