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Wallet posted:Why not just use silicone? My impression is that silicone is good at filling gaps, but has little in the way of strength. If the plastic cracked, that implies that the forces being applied at that point exceed the strength of the plastic, and it needs some kind of reinforcement.
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Jul 26, 2022 23:42
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Yeah silicone may or may not adhere well to a random plastic. Over in trad games, we don't recommend superglue for sticking plastic to plastic, we recommend a plastic cement, and that works way better: but you may need to know the type of plastic. A plastic glue actually melts the plastic so it can weld together, but a crack might be hard to press fit together so I don't think it's the right tool here. There are superglues (cyanoacrylate or CYA) that have a toughener added (gorilla makes one for example) which can give the normally very brittle CYA join some ability to flex a little, and one of those could work. However: I'm gonna 4th using epoxy. It's used to repair boat hulls, it has both strength and durability. It can fill gaps. You can get a small two-part 5-minute epoxy syringe at a big box store for less than ten bucks. Mix it thoroughly in a disposable container, smear it on with something, make sure it's continuous and filled the crack, and it'll never be a problem again. Don't inhale the fumes. Don't get it on your skin or in your eyes.
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Jul 26, 2022 23:49
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Oh yeah, a note on epoxy: it's commonly sold as a pair of syringes with a single plunger. This is to make it easy to dispense a balanced amount of the two components. You still need to manually mix them together. I recommend a toothpick and a card or piece of scrap wood.
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Jul 26, 2022 23:58
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I use epoxy frequently. Have paper towels, Q-tips, and isopropyl alcohol on hand. Clean your bottle tips and caps after dispensing--prevents build-up and helps the caps retain a good seal. Also good for cleaning epoxy off of your hands and anywhere else that you don't want it. After assembly: gently, carefully use Q-tips to remove excess squeeze-out from your joints while it's setting; it gives a nice clean surface.
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Jul 27, 2022 00:39
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Had a flooring company come and install flooring in the kitchen and bathroom. They finished the kitchen and said they’ll get the bathroom done tomorrow-great! I can paint the small space behind the vanity and toilet since they took them both out! So without a p-trap there on the sink…it smells like poo poo. The toilet hole has some rags stuffed in it. Am I going to die of a methane explosion or something overnight?
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Jul 27, 2022 00:44
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nwin posted:So without a p-trap there on the sink…it smells like poo poo. The toilet hole has some rags stuffed in it. Just stuff a rag or a plastic bag in it. They should have done that.
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Jul 27, 2022 00:45
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thanks for the help. woot offered me a $30 refund and a coupon to fix it myself, so I guess that's the plan
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Jul 27, 2022 12:48
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My impression is that silicone is good at filling gaps, but has little in the way of strength. If the plastic cracked, that implies that the forces being applied at that point exceed the strength of the plastic, and it needs some kind of reinforcement. Appropriate silicone is quite strong, while epoxy does not adhere well (or at all) to many plastics. If that basin cracked it probably flexes, so something that can also flex seems wise 
Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Jul 27, 2022 |
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Jul 27, 2022 14:29
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Wallet posted:Appropriate silicone is quite strong, while epoxy does not adhere well (or at all) to many plastics. If that basin cracked it probably flexes, so something that can also flex seems wise This is why I was thinking maybe ABS slurry would be good, since I could actually build it up with the same material, which will flex and expand the same way as the tub itself. Otherwise it will probably be jb weld
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Jul 27, 2022 15:47
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Yeah definitely buy an epoxy that says it welds plastic on the container. Fair point that not all of them do. "Loctite Plastic Bonder" is one option, JB Weld says it does plastic so that's another. Actually JB Weld has several epoxies labeled specifically for plastic, such as JB Weld Plastic Bonder. Since you're buying for this specific project, get one of those.
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Jul 28, 2022 00:04
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I'm still having intermittent closing issues with my garage doors (the opener randomly dies while closing the doors). One of the extension springs is definitely in need of replacement and the opener is over 20 years old. There are 4 extension springs, but only one of them has a safety cable; three of the springs are color-coded brown, one of them (the one with a safety cable) is white, so I'm taking that to mean that one of the brown springs broke in the past and was replaced with a weaker white spring because whoever did this work happened to have a spare white spring laying around. Great. Definitely not worried that these unsecured older springs are going to snap at any moment and take my head off. The amount of work required here is becoming A Buttload so I call a highly-rated (Angie's list and BBB) garage door company to come and look at things. Right away he says "A single opener lifting 2 heavy wooden doors? That's not up to code, I'm not even allowed to work on this and it's technically a fire hazard. There's a beam blocking where a pair of normal chain-drive openers would normally go, so you need a separate jackshaft openers mounted to the wall for each door." He's given me a quote for a complete garage door replacement: new tracks, torsion springs, two jackshaft openers, a pair of new outlets installed for the openers, and a pair of well-insulated (I asked for R-9) doors with windows. $5500 for the whole project, including labor, before tax We're calling another company to get a second opinion. (I looked up whether it's non-standard to open 2 doors with 1 opener, e.g. opening in tandem, and found that DASMA recommends against it) On one hand, I'm not convinced that this is a fire hazard - why would it be? If everyone winds up telling me that they won't even touch this homebrewed garage door system and will only replace literally everything then maybe I should just replace the opener and springs while also installing safety cables. I'm confident that I could do this, it'd probably take me a few days to do it all correctly. On the other hand, these thick wooden doors are pretty old, and it'd be nice to work toward having an insulated garage with doors and openers that have been installed by a professional. QuarkJets fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Jul 28, 2022 |
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Jul 28, 2022 06:53
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I've got a door whose top vertical edge on the opposite side to the hinge is sticking. I'm aware of how to reposition the hinge itself to address this, but this place has these odd things: Does anyone know what they're for, and what the -1/0/+1/+2 markings mean on the square part that looks removable via the central screw? It seemed to me that they can be used to adjust hinge positioning, but I wasn't keen to embark on an attempt without knowing beforehand.
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Jul 28, 2022 12:02
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Leperflesh posted:Yeah definitely buy an epoxy that says it welds plastic on the container. Fair point that not all of them do. "Loctite Plastic Bonder" is one option, JB Weld says it does plastic so that's another. Actually JB Weld has several epoxies labeled specifically for plastic, such as JB Weld Plastic Bonder. Since you're buying for this specific project, get one of those. i ended up back on regular JB weld after watching this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djtKXkTqPUI
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Jul 28, 2022 12:51
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Technically any egress that doesn't open but should might be a fire hazard. Dunno uf that's how your code is written or not
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Jul 28, 2022 13:04
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Sir Sidney Poitier posted:I've got a door whose top vertical edge on the opposite side to the hinge is sticking. I'm aware of how to reposition the hinge itself to address this, but this place has these odd things:
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Jul 28, 2022 13:19
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poverty goat posted:i ended up back on regular JB weld after watching this I couldn't find the bookmark on mobile but this site is also useful for figuring out what adhesive to use: https://www.thistothat.com
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Jul 28, 2022 13:35
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yeah they let you adjust things without moving the hinge. I'm not exactly sure how or what the markings mean, but I bet if you google it (it looks like there is a manufacturers name stamped on there?) you can probably find an install guide that explains it. Thanks - I hadn't even noticed the name. I googled it and found this, so I have my answer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T9a_8OSjig
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Jul 28, 2022 14:55
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QuarkJets posted:I'm still having intermittent closing issues with my garage doors (the opener randomly dies while closing the doors). Without photos it is hard to comment but I’ve never seen one opener actuating two doors. If you have two separate doors in separate openings with separate tracks, and both are overhead doors, they should probably be on separate openers…what they are made of, though, and what they mass, is irrelevant if the mass is properly supported by tension. The openers should not have to exert all that much force if the set-up is well-balanced. If your existing doors and tracks are in good physical and mechanical condition, then replacing the openers yourself is a fairly straightforward matter. Again, though, you mention some kind of structural issue that blocks installation?
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Jul 28, 2022 15:27
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QuarkJets posted:I'm still having intermittent closing issues with my garage doors (the opener randomly dies while closing the doors). One of the extension springs is definitely in need of replacement and the opener is over 20 years old. There are 4 extension springs, but only one of them has a safety cable; three of the springs are color-coded brown, one of them (the one with a safety cable) is white, so I'm taking that to mean that one of the brown springs broke in the past and was replaced with a weaker white spring because whoever did this work happened to have a spare white spring laying around. Great. Definitely not worried that these unsecured older springs are going to snap at any moment and take my head off. A shot in the dark, but I fixed my dad's garage door opener after he had gone through a similar set of of steps as you, following this video: https://youtu.be/Izqj8I_BjHA Looking into it we had a cracked solder joint just like they find in the video.
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Jul 28, 2022 15:34
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PainterofCrap posted:Without photos it is hard to comment but I’ve never seen one opener actuating two doors. 2 doors, separate tracks, 1 chain opener in the center of the garage lifts both doors simultaneously. I'd say that the doors and the tracks are in acceptable condition, it's older hardware for sure but not broken. It looks like the uppermost rollers on the doors have been replaced, probably due to extra wear from this weird homebrew install. The doors are heavy There are beams in the garage preventing one from installing a chain or belt opener for each door, so I use the same kind of nonstandard chain install that's there now or go with the wall-mounted jackscrew idea proposed by this contractor Jenkl posted:A shot in the dark, but I fixed my dad's garage door opener after he had gone through a similar set of of steps as you, following this video: A circuit board problem seems likely given what I've observed, with the opener randomly losing power while things are moving (e.g. vibrating). Still gotta replace those springs though
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Jul 29, 2022 05:27
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actionjackson posted:if I have rigid ducting, since the new fan is bigger, the duct on the fan might be a bit more to the left (small orange box vs. small black box) - what happens in this case? can that foil be used to bridge the connection? If you're asking if you can mix and combine different types of ducting, like flexible ducting clamped and taped onto rigid ducting, I have done this and know others who have without issues. But that may or may not be code depending on where you live.
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Jul 29, 2022 22:52
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What is/are the correct lubricant(s) for crank window cranks and arms?
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Jul 30, 2022 18:56
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QuarkJets posted:2 doors, separate tracks, 1 chain opener in the center of the garage lifts both doors simultaneously. I need pictures of this because in my mind this is obscenely janky.
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Jul 31, 2022 02:32
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poverty goat posted:if I can find some sacrificial ABS around I might try this This is essentially the same concept as Plastex, but Plastex has a more precise application method, using ABS powder and solvent applicators. Plastex is also pretty expensive for what it is. https://www.plastex.net/ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVMQG9E/ Plast-aid is pretty much the same thing without the fancy precision applicator - I've use the Plast-Aid resources with the Plastex applicator just fine. https://www.plast-aid.com/index.html https://www.amazon.com/Plast-aid-Repair-Plastic-1-5oz-80100/dp/B004DFHLUA/ The resources are literally powdered ABS and a solvent, likely acetone or a combination containing acetone.
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Aug 1, 2022 20:46
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From 3d printing ABS and having lots of warping and layer separation I've fixed up a few things with a 3d printing pen and some length of ABS filament. I've also smoothed it together with some acetone (available as acetone or nail polish remover). I think we've about beaten poverty goat's small ABS crack repair to death at this point, though.
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Aug 1, 2022 22:17
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I scored a slightly scuffed up Le Corbusier LC2 petit modele off Facebook for $280. gently caress yeah. I was able to shine up the leather, and should be able to touch up the scrapes it has here and there, but the frame has some scuffs too. Is there anything I can do about this? I can't tell if this is powder coated, painted, or what. 
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Aug 2, 2022 03:50
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Is there any good free planning/drawing software out there? I'm gonna remodel my attic and want to draw a floor plan etc because it's pretty oddly shaped. All I can think of right now is sketchup, but I think that's more for 3D stuff?
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Aug 2, 2022 08:41
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shut up blegum posted:Is there any good free planning/drawing software out there? I'm gonna remodel my attic and want to draw a floor plan etc because it's pretty oddly shaped. All I can think of right now is sketchup, but I think that's more for 3D stuff? I use the free version of magicplan ... It's been pretty great. Has Bluetooth connectivity if you have a Bluetooth laser measure. Can even do AR scanning if you want. Or you can just do it manually.
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Aug 2, 2022 14:20
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shut up blegum posted:Is there any good free planning/drawing software out there? I'm gonna remodel my attic and want to draw a floor plan etc because it's pretty oddly shaped. All I can think of right now is sketchup, but I think that's more for 3D stuff? SketchUp works fine for 2d as well, just don't use the push/pull tools and stay on the starting plane with the drawing tools.
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Aug 2, 2022 15:24
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There is, or was, a free student version of AutoCAD. Unsure if you need a university email account to get a copy.
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Aug 2, 2022 15:41
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Here's magicplan - https://www.magicplan.app/ It's literally built for on-site contractors, technicians, etc that need to quickly build floorplans (if they're quoting stuff, etc). Has tons of preset "objects" to just quickly add any feature of a room.
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Aug 2, 2022 16:01
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poverty goat posted:if I can find some sacrificial ABS around I might try this You have to be careful with this, in some cases, depending on how much acetone you use (and the concentration), the plastic thickness and geometry (smooth corners/features are safer than sharp ones). Plastics including ABS are susceptible to solvent stress cracking, where a solvent weakens the plastic and allows internal molded-in stresses to cause cracks (or external stresses, if solvent is still present in or on the plastic). It takes a variable amount of time for the solvent to penetrate and also to evaporate after, since it is dissolving into the plastic itself. I wouldnt be surprised if some plastics exhibited crazing / surface cracking too, especially with thicker stuff (or with fiber reinforced plastics) I read up on this after having a gundam model part explode the moment a drop of acetone touched it lol, which I did not see coming
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Aug 2, 2022 17:32
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I recently bought this coffee table https://www.sauder.com/furniture/430359/modern-square-coffee-table-in-blaze-acacia and ideally I'd like to add some casters to it to give it extra height and make it easier to shift around, and I wanted to see if this thread had any advice for a way to do it with minimal investment in new tools. I live in an apartment and don't have a huge amount of space to store them / use for them in the future. The bottom part of the coffee table is a just a square foot made by joining four pieces of wood with a screw cam system. Those pieces are only 15mm thick, I think they're some kind of particle or fiber board but I'm not sure exactly what kind. I think the most robust way I could do this is to glue some timber to the inside of the "foot" to give me something to screw casters to. The 'foot' is about 700mm square and 88mm tall on the inside so lots of surface area to grip to - but I think I'd need to invest in a decent saw and some strong clamps for that. Are there any other good ways to mount casters to these 15mm wide boards where I could get away with just a drill & screwdriver to work with? A socket like this https://www.rona.ca/en/product/bed-frame-caster-sockets-round-1-2-od-3-8-id-4-pk-01015390 seems a bit risky as there would not be much play either side once installed. Something like this requires pretty small screws - #8 https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/casters-and-wheels/40135-frame-casters?item=00K2501 so seems like it might leave the boards more stable? Edit: https://clarkecasters.tumblr.com/post/152729542774/corner-mounted-casters I'm not sure if 15mm is enough to play with but maybe mounting slots for stem casters like this would work for my case Or less nice aesthetically and possibly involving drilling through the laminate on both sides these U-shaped mounts: https://www.amazon.ca/Shepherd-Hardware-9420-U-Bracket-Capacity/dp/B00004YOIZ Bizarro Buddha fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Aug 3, 2022 |
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Aug 3, 2022 06:01
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It'd help to be able to see the underside. Based on your description, the perimeter run of wood at the floor, that the table sits on, is maybe 5/8" particle board with a veneer on the outside. Even if it were solid pine, 5/8" is not a lot of material to work with. Keep in mind that someone may wind up sitting on it at some point, so the casters have to take that load. If it is built the way I suspect, the most robust and simplest solution is to glue or screw (or both, though the screw heads would be visible) blocks of wood at least 2" square to each inside corner, flush with the floor/bottom edge of the wood & hopefully, up against some frame on the underside, drill out the center & install your casters.
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Aug 3, 2022 15:26
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Thanks, I haven't assembled it yet (one part came broken  ) so I don't have pics of how it goes together but here's some stuff from the manual:Two of the sides of the "foot" just attach parallel to the sides of the coffee table with screws and dowels:  And then the other two sides attach to that with the cam lock stuff.  So there's no internal frame. Looks like all the weight is intended to go through the parts labelled "D" in the second pic as it has feet that parts "E" don't have. I'm not convinced this could take the weight of a person even without casters to be honest. Sounds like your suggestion is basically what I thought I would have to do - my plan was to glue something the full length of part "D" to give it max surface area to get a good join without using screws that would be visible from outside, and which I might crack the laminate installing. Edit: Another thought - the inside surface of the skirt/food is covered in some kind of laminate. Would I need to remove that to get a good join with wood glue? I can imagine it just shearing off otherwise. Bizarro Buddha fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Aug 3, 2022 |
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Aug 3, 2022 16:48
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a couple small questions about my mini-blinds that I put in a while ago (I have the 1" version, image 1 below) https://www.baliblinds.com/globalassets/3.-documents/installation-instructions/bali-wood-faux-wood-blinds-installation-instructions.pdf when would you use the valance return (bottom right image, parts 14-15)? it appears to just be an aesthetic option, though I would have to cut it down to get it to fit. It's really not needed though because you almost never see the parts behind the valance itself (part 13) as it's hidden by the door frame. what are the bottom rail brackets (part 10) in image 1 supposed to do? On step 10 of the manual, I guess they just stick into the bottom of each side, then you rotate and screw it into the door itself to hold it in place when opening and closing? I guess you screw it in first, then put the other piece sticking out in the nub (though I don't have a nub on mine) actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Aug 3, 2022 |
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Aug 3, 2022 20:28
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actionjackson posted:a couple small questions about my mini-blinds that I put in a while ago (I have the 1" version, image 1 below) The Valance cover would be if you wanted to put decorative curtains around the blinds - completely optional The bottom rail brackets, as I understand it, are used if you want to have the blinds down, semi-permanently, and don't want them to move around too much. There should be matching notches/holes on either side of the bottom bar that would let the pegs of the brackets slot in. Since it sounds like you have this installed on a door it might prevent the blinds from knocking on the door every time you open/close it.
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Aug 4, 2022 15:44
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thanks, that makes sense. for the second part, there is no notch, so I guess they forget to add that? either way I probably wouldn't attach it either, I do always keep the blinds in down and it's nice to not have them swing around when opening the door, but I'm not a fan of the bracket appearance.
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Aug 4, 2022 16:43
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We were donating a washer/dryer yesterday, and the Humane Society guy who came to pick it up accidentally bashed it into the porch wall. No big, we'll glue the pieces back. However, while they're still exposed, I snapped a picture of the break. Does that look like asbestos siding to you?  Also also the previous previous owner had much better taste in exterior colors.
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Aug 4, 2022 17:32
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I'm pretty sure that's hardiboard. You wouldn't want to breathe the dust from cutting it (which is basically powdered cement), but it's no asbestos.
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Aug 4, 2022 18:52
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