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Also gently caress Vision Miner, stupid company.
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Aug 7, 2022 01:26
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insta posted:Also gently caress Vision Miner, stupid company. I've seen that some subset of the voron people have figured out a forumula to replicate the nano polymer adhesive.
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Aug 7, 2022 02:09
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Nerobro posted:Ok, on the topic of printer tuning. I've bookmarked this post, thanks!
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Aug 7, 2022 06:28
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I've bookmarked this post, thanks! Yeah, that was obviously a lot of effort. It is appreciated.
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Aug 7, 2022 07:53
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:i think if you read my post you'll discover that the issue is not with the information you provide, but the manner by which it is delivered. Tone arguments are for thin skinned incels. I can swear while answering a question without it meaning I'm angry, and if anybody gets offended reading an answer to a question because it contains the word "loving" they need to grow the gently caress up. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Aug 7, 2022 09:40
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Tone arguments are for thin skinned incels. I could see the glittering outline of the force field as the actual point of that statement glanced off of you.
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Aug 7, 2022 09:48
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Marsupial Ape posted:I could see the glittering outline of the force field as the actual point of that statement glanced off of you. Yeah, I couldn't think of a better way to explain that I don't particularly care if some other poster doesn't like the tone of my posts (especially since "tone" in forum posts is 99% projection based on your own mores about the language you use), though. Also LOL at anybody calling someone else that I reply to ITT that has actively participated in this hobby and posted in this thread for over six months a newbie when getting mad at my posting "tone". You might still be a novice in the hobby but you aren't a newbie. Edit: Did anybody see that Prusa is adding a Carbon fiber filled PA11 filament to their lineup? I need to think of something to print that would justify buying a spool of that. Edit 2: Prusa's blog post about it from 3 days ago: https://blog.prusa3d.com/introducing-prusament-pa11-nylon-carbon-fiber-black-filament-with-excellent-chemical-and-heat-resistance_69135/ Sounds like it'd be a good material whoever it was that was asking about printing some part for a motorcycle that was going to be in regular contact with gasoline? Did that poster end up in the hospital? Who was that anyway? Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 7, 2022 09:54
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Biracial, you’re definitely a dick on the internet and being ok with that is just your thing. Not sure how many times you need the feedback to care about your impact on other people, but it’s definitely true. Anyway, it’s very cool to see Prusa get into another weird material. Straight up polycarbonate is very resistant to gasoline, so maybe their PC Blend is as well. Nylon should be, too.
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Aug 7, 2022 15:38
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Tone arguments are for thin skinned incels. Hey, how about you go back to posting in E/N, dude, this isn't working out... oh wait lmao
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Aug 7, 2022 16:33
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Nerobro posted:Ok, on the topic of printer tuning. checkin dis I was about to come ask what I need to retune now that I moved up to 0.6 nozzle but I expect my answers lie within edit: wow this is the best documentation I've ever seen for this stuff. Vaporware fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 7, 2022 16:45
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NewFatMike posted:Biracial, you’re definitely a dick on the internet and being ok with that is just your thing. Not sure how many times you need the feedback to care about your impact on other people, but it’s definitely true. I read this thread to try to hear about/share cool new things in the hobby that aren't some jackass on youtube making poo poo up because some vendor paid them for a good review (because this and previous iterations of the thread were a really good resource for those discussions while avoiding that particular nonsense). 99% of the "how is melted filament formed?" questions are answered on the first page of the thread, so it's a bit frustrating when people go to the end of a long thread to ask a question that would have been answered if they'd just read even the first few posts. I know its  as hell but it used to be that you were expected to at least read the first few pages of a several dozen/hundred page thread to make sure basic questions were covered before going to the end and asking the kind of question that prompted this whole "posting about posting" derail.quote:Anyway, it’s very cool to see Prusa get into another weird material. Straight up polycarbonate is very resistant to gasoline, so maybe their PC Blend is as well. Nylon should be, too. Looks like they have a special build plate for the MK3S for it, too, so you don't have to use glue for an interface/release layer (& very thorough instructions for best printing practices). But it is a bit disappointing that they aren't going to make that build plate for the Mini+. Probably because they want to promote the Prusa Box enclosure, too. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 7, 2022 17:12
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maybe it's just me, but when new people enter the hobby and post basic questions i think it's nice to be welcoming and helpful insane, I know. e: vvvv i love this forum Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 7, 2022 17:22
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Tone arguments are for thin skinned incels. Hello Biracial bear for uncut, I am Dr. DIY, M.D.* and I will be your Mod Doctor for today! I am prescribing you a Bottle of Chill Pills and the copay is  . You can avoid this copay by 3d printing your own bottle of chill pills. A bottle of chill pills is a pill bottle, with any type of cap, and 10 pills that fit inside this bottle. The pills must be a different color than the bottle. Bonus points if your pills match the brand name and say "chill" on them (embossed into the pill.) Otherwise generic pills will be accepted. You have 1 week to complete this mod challenge. Failure to complete this challenge will result in having to pay the copay.To get your course of chill started I am giving you a 12 hour head start! Signed, Illegible scribble * Not a medical doctor. Not any kind of doctor. Never even went to college.
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Aug 7, 2022 17:32
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Nerobro posted:I've seen that some subset of the voron people have figured out a forumula to replicate the nano polymer adhesive. Check who the author of the pinned post in slicers_and_print_help is
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Aug 7, 2022 17:39
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insta posted:Check who the author of the pinned post in slicers_and_print_help is Hah, I hadn't noticed.
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Aug 7, 2022 19:04
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poo poo that's a good idea, I might print out some chill pills just for the laughs when I hand them to people.
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Aug 7, 2022 19:50
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I went through the Extruder multiplier exercise. I agree the "mark the filament with calipers @150mm, then extrude 50mm x2, measure and apply ratio formula" method is way more efficient than the stupid box print. The best part is that it confirmed my box print values, except it doesn't take 20 minutes to get another test sample. I also did the Pressure Advance (even though I really don't need to) as a learning exercise. I definitely have some ways to go understanding gcode, but I managed to locate the marlin Linear Advance generator and that saved a bunch of time. Confirmed 0.04 is fine for the mk3s with a 0.6 nozzle. I could have tweaked it for exactness but it's fine.
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Aug 7, 2022 20:00
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Is anyone in here actually doing a lot of printing with nylons or PC or etc?
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Aug 7, 2022 20:40
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slurm posted:Is anyone in here actually doing a lot of printing with nylons or PC or etc? Not me, but if I could justify the expense I would print literally everything out of CF nylon.
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Aug 7, 2022 20:57
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:Not me, but if I could justify the expense I would print literally everything out of CF nylon. Have you used it at all? I have some CF PETG that I need to try (afaik it's basically just an aesthetic filament of course, but an easy printing filament with a matte finish is still handy)
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Aug 7, 2022 22:08
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:maybe it's just me, but when new people enter the hobby and post basic questions i think it's nice to be welcoming and helpful Yeah, there's a barrier to even knowing what you're reading about with 3d printing. There's a lot of specific vocabulary for the parts of the printers and time needed to understand how the parts all go together to make the thing work. It's not a complicated machine, but a lot of the knowledge to even ask the right question or find an answer about things isn't immediate. I'd rather answer the same questions 100 times and try to help everyone out than be a "rtfm noob" grognard. If I don't have time or don't know, I just skip it.
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Aug 7, 2022 22:18
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Rexxed posted:Yeah, there's a barrier to even knowing what you're reading about with 3d printing. There's a lot of specific vocabulary for the parts of the printers and time needed to understand how the parts all go together to make the thing work. It's not a complicated machine, but a lot of the knowledge to even ask the right question or find an answer about things isn't immediate. I'd rather answer the same questions 100 times and try to help everyone out than be a "rtfm noob" grognard. If I don't have time or don't know, I just skip it. And if you DO RTFM, the chances of reading the right thing are damned near zero. "What do I need to print TPU?" "Can X print ABS" "My extruder is stopping" "I need direct drive" and... more... ~this thread~ is usually pretty good. It's why I bother replying. I dropped out of ~all~ of the 3dp groups on facebook because it was impossible to keep ahead of the wrong. And the people who never looked at anything... and asked the same question that was asked litteral hours ago.
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Aug 7, 2022 22:32
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slurm posted:Is anyone in here actually doing a lot of printing with nylons or PC or etc? what's up
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Aug 7, 2022 22:55
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Whom among us in our journeys did not hear about "bed leveling" and then get out the bubble level. It's a complicated hobby and once you're in, it's easy to take for granted just how complicated it is.
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Aug 7, 2022 22:59
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insta posted:what's up I want to expand into nylon for small gears and the like but all I have is a stock mk3s so I'm not sure what my steps are from here. Also the prusament PC blend etc just bc it seems interesting
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Aug 7, 2022 23:11
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Nerobro posted:Ok, on the topic of printer tuning. Extremely good poo poo. This needs to go in the OP. Now for my dumb question - I am gearing up to start printing voron parts but have never printed ABS before. I have a grow tent I'm using as an enclosure, an Ender 3 upgraded with a bi-metal hot end, cap tubing, a glass bed, etc. Is the Andrew Ellis the best place to start for tuning, or is there a better resource? Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Aug 7, 2022 |
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Aug 7, 2022 23:51
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I am right now begging KVP to produce a "printing our ABS on a mostly stock Ender 3 with a grow tent, here's how" guide. PIF is an option too. you will get marvelously gorgeous parts in about a week at double filament cost in the US.
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Aug 8, 2022 00:54
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I printed my first Voron parts on an Anycubic Vyper with some plastic sheeting as a tent. It worked out well enough to get it built, although the parts looked like rear end. Once it was built I reprinted and rebuilt it. But it can be done!
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Aug 8, 2022 01:17
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Nerobro posted:For starters, I recommend looking at lost in tech. He... does things with testing, and shows you why, and how, things happen. https://www.youtube.com/c/LostInTech3D If there's a thing you're trying to do, it's likely he's already done a series on it. And shown you his mistakes, and what the misconceptions are. (So many of the "rules" with 3d printing are.. just utter horsehockey) Lots of good information in this post but just wanted to also shout out lost in tech. He's a good guy and I enjoy his discord, I'm in there as Jon  His style of presenting can be a bit pedantic but I like his content regardless!
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Aug 8, 2022 01:26
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insta posted:I am right now begging KVP to produce a "printing our ABS on a mostly stock Ender 3 with a grow tent, here's how" guide. I have been waffling about PIF, just because there seems to be a fairly long queue at the moment, and printing the parts myself is just something I kinda want to try for the learning experience since in theory it should be possible.
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Aug 8, 2022 01:33
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Mikey Purp posted:Now for my dumb question - I am gearing up to start printing voron parts but have never printed ABS before. I have a grow tent I'm using as an enclosure, an Ender 3 upgraded with a bi-metal hot end, cap tubing, a glass bed, etc. Is the Andrew Ellis the best place to start for tuning, or is there a better resource? Tips for "home made enclosures". Preheat. Preheat more than you think you need. Preheat then hit start, and walk away. Heat the hot end up to 100-120c, turn on the part cooling fan(s) and have the bed on at print temp. (should be 110c..) and wait for that chamber to get warm. Glass is not advantageous. If you have the $30, get a spring steel pei coated bed. This will improve your cycle time, as you won't need to wait for the whole arrangement to cool down between prints. Use the whole bed. ABS is pretty good without cooling, but it needs time to get solid, get it the time it needs by printing lots of parts. Andrew ellis is a good place. The hot end, tubing, don't really matter. But I'd prefer to print on the polycarbonate mat, or spring still versus glass. Once you have a 45-50deg chamber, ABS prints amazingly. It's the easiest stuff I've found to print, the only caveat is it needs to be done warm. 50deg chamber, 100-110deg bed. And no drafts for those first few layers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZgt3Ijno78 Nero3dp has a tutorial series on how to print ABS that.. is.. spot on. insta posted:I am right now begging KVP to produce a "printing our ABS on a mostly stock Ender 3 with a grow tent, here's how" guide. PIF is a treasure. Opinionated posted:His style of presenting can be a bit pedantic but I like his content regardless! I can overlook a lot, so long as the information is good.
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Aug 8, 2022 01:48
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slurm posted:Is anyone in here actually doing a lot of printing with nylons or PC or etc? I print PC Blend all day on my Prusa Mini, it’s dead easy once you’ve got it dialed in. I needed to shim my bed a little bit to satisfy some first layer issues. Lucky for you, Prusa just came out with a CF PA11 Nylon that’s got some great info. Their approach is really good. You’ll want a tool steel or similarly hardened nozzle, all metal hot end, and the build plate in the post to get started: https://blog.prusa3d.com/introducing-prusament-pa11-nylon-carbon-fiber-black-filament-with-excellent-chemical-and-heat-resistance_69135/ This particular blend is about half the tensile strength of some other nylon blends like PA6-CF, but I’ll be dammed if it probably isn’t the easiest way to get started.
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Aug 8, 2022 02:40
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What's your application for the PC blend? The new Prusa nylon looks nice, I'm working on an enclosure now which should help with a bunch of filaments, it's definitely my next step.
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Aug 8, 2022 02:50
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Mikey Purp posted:I have been waffling about PIF, just because there seems to be a fairly long queue at the moment, and printing the parts myself is just something I kinda want to try for the learning experience since in theory it should be possible. The US queue is literally like 2 days long right now. Apologies if you're not US though! ABS is easy with the right machine. A Voron is the right machine. An Ender3 is not, and you will learn a lot of things that won't apply.
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Aug 8, 2022 04:37
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Has Creality ever talked about producing a five stepper driver board for the Ender 3 series? Since I’ve installed my dual-z axis, I have learned about the G43 command that, when inserted into your gcode, will auto level your dual z-axis. You need 5 discrete stepper drivers to execute G43, though. My set up uses a splitter cable that both stepper motors use to share a single stepper. Honestly, it is a completely unnecessary upgrade. The little bubble level I got to level my bed is actually adequate in this situation. I just run the z axis up to about 240, disable the motors, hand adjust the screws until I get a good bubble, and then auto home. As long as the bubble level shows level all the way down, I am satisfied for at least a few prints. I just want to do it because the process looks interesting. I looked into 3rd party boards with 5 stepper drivers or more and I didn’t like the cost or the fact I may have to gently caress with editing driver software. I figure I’ll shelve that idea until Creality makes an official one.
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Aug 8, 2022 09:57
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Marsupial Ape posted:Has Creality ever talked about producing a five stepper driver board for the Ender 3 series? Since I’ve installed my dual-z axis, I have learned about the G43 command that, when inserted into your gcode, will auto level your dual z-axis. You need 5 discrete stepper drivers to execute G43, though. My set up uses a splitter cable that both stepper motors use to share a single stepper. *takes out his I told you so, places it on the forum floor. Kicks it under the thread a few weeks ago.* Also note, it's 421am. So.. I might be a little less kind than usual. Ok, lets talk about this. You no longer have a "creality printer". You have a Marsupial Ape Custom. Anything you're gonna get for that thing, is going to be tempered by your ability to interpret weather a comercial product for ~X Application~ is going to be correct for the Marsupial Ape Custom. Creality is very serious about making money. Each stepper driver is a pretty steep fixed cost. They.. aren't gonna throw extra drivers at you. If you want a board that'll give you independent control of Z, you're going to need to get a board that's.. not.. carrying creality firmware. Which means if you're going to be messing with the core mechanics of your printer, firmware is a thing you're going to need to do. Creality also is not good at firmware. Most of their printers come out with firmware that's usefully broken in some way or another. Missing commands, missing safeties, missing manual controls. Long story short, Creality isn't going to "solve" this for you. And this isn't a creality problem anymore, realistically speaking. To do gantry leveling, you also need either dual Z switches, or some sort of bed probe on your print head. My Legacy does it's bed leveling with an inductive sensor. Then it does Z homing with a nozzle switch. Lots of printers with dual Z have been run with a single driver.. for the last decade or so. my Geeetech I3 is that way. Early prusas were that way. It's not a problem, it just means you can't ever move the Z by hand. While we're talking about it, your method for leveling your gantry isn't good. You want it level to your bed, not to the world. The best method for that, is to basically do a normal bed level, but do it on the left edge, then do it on the right edge, using the leadscrew to bring the head closer or further from the bed. "physical level" is not a thing you should be doing at all, and especially not with a household level. (Household levels are... not good levels....) You can leave it as is. Do your gantry level as I described. Or if you want to make it better, you're staring down ~completely gutting~ the brains of your printer. Which is not an insane thing to do, but you're going to need to mess with firmware of some sort. Either configuring Marlin, messing with reprap firmware, or going klipper. All three are big steps. Klipper is the future I think, but I don't know who you are as a person, so maybe checking boxes and recompiling marlin 20-30-40 times is better for your brain than editing a config file and clicking restart process. Maybe we need to do a thread level discussion about firmware? "Dad, how do I?" type thing? But before you proceed, think carefully about what you're trying to do. "because it's better" isn't a good reason. You need to understand ~why~ it's better, and ~how it will directly affect your printing~. That's a lot harder thing to do. For example, you went with dual z because "it's stiffer"... and now you've got... A Z that's harder to manage, is driving you to try to fix it futher, and are your prints really better? From a personal perspective. If I wanted "the ultimate ender 3". It would get klipperized, so I could do all the accessory things I like, lighting, servos, more thermistors. I'd put on some beefier Y axis motor. I'd get some cast aluminum plate, and a magentic pei bed. A klicky bed probe. Some decent cooling part cooling solution. A filament runout sensor. A thermistor on the cold side of the hot end. I'd definitely have a nozzle brush and catch tray. ~maybe~ I'd go direct drive? if I did it would be with something like a mini afterburner. Maybe an all metal hot end, if I planned on doing ABS/PC/Nylon... But the more important thing, is I'd spend time characterizing the printer. Run the accelerations till things skip, test the hot end for flow rate, get input shaping run, get pressure advance tuned. Probally do the last one for my 3 most common filaments. Amusingly, I bought the stuff to do ~just that~ to my ender. And I just drug it out to the garage to ... hold the slab down? PEI bed, MIC6 bed plate, Mellow Fly board, SKR board, a raspi, and brand new all metal hot ends... --------------------------------- Edit: If you really want to improve your printer. Spending time to characterize it, and tune it, is likely better than trying to throw money at it. For instance, saggy bow benchies were the rule before I swapped out my part cooling. Switching to better part cooling let me turn maximum print speed from 50mm/s to 150mm/s. Though I didn't go down the glorious hole of testing just how hard I could drive the steppers, I think we had my buddies ender 3 doing 4k accel without losing steps. And "good quality prints" are more about tuning and knowing your materials. *points back at the andrew ellis tuning guide* Nerobro fucked around with this message at 10:46 on Aug 8, 2022 |
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Aug 8, 2022 10:34
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Nerobro posted:*takes out his I told you so, places it on the forum floor. Kicks it under the thread a few weeks ago.* Also note, it's 421am. So.. I might be a little less kind than usual. "Mr. Jones, do you remember the question I asked you?"
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Aug 8, 2022 10:43
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H110Hawk posted:Hello Biracial bear for uncut, I am Dr. DIY, M.D.* and I will be your Mod Doctor for today! 'K. I'll post pics probably tomorrow, maybe Wednesday, got the pill bottle done yesterday and will print the actual pills after work today and tomorrow (barring the thunderstorms knocking the power out). After this I'm going to start down the road of putting Klipper on an old Monoprice clone of the CR-10, which should be interesting. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 12:07 on Aug 8, 2022 |
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Aug 8, 2022 12:05
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Marsupial Ape posted:"Mr. Jones, do you remember the question I asked you?" jesus christ this loving thread lmao i'm losing my mind the simple answer to your question is no, unfortunately. Even 3rd party boards for the ender with "dual z" output are usually linked to the same stepper driver, and you will have to compile custom firmware to get it working properly even if Creality makes a board for this specific purpose since you're no longer using their standard parts. I'd stick with your current leveling system if it doesn't bother you too much. Eventually you will want to upgrade Marlin or switch to Klipper and you can probably figure out a solution at that point, but that's a whole project in itself anyway. e: also as nero pointed out, the way you're leveling isn't quite right, a bubble level won't really help you. you don't want to actually level the bed per se, you're tramming it to the x-carriage. better to check that nozzle height is consistent from one axis to the other, your bed can be perfectly level with a bubble but it won't matter if your x-axis isn't. Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Aug 8, 2022 |
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Aug 8, 2022 15:27
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also nerobro you post a ton of great and helpful information but please for the love of god the condescending editorialization has to stop brotherNerobro posted:*takes out his I told you so, places it on the forum floor. Kicks it under the thread a few weeks ago.* Also note, it's 421am. So.. I might be a little less kind than usual. next time you have to post a disclaimer like this, just don't post at all please
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Aug 8, 2022 15:39
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